Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Scale Aircraft
Reload this Page >

ESM Hawker Typhoon build

Notices
RC Scale Aircraft Discuss rc scale aircraft here (for giant scale see category above)

ESM Hawker Typhoon build

Old 02-27-2021, 05:07 PM
  #1  
Thomas Shekell
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default ESM Hawker Typhoon build

Hi all,
I have just purchased a 5th scale ESM Hawker Typhoon.
I have a new RCV 120sp engine and was wondering if this would be a good match for the Typhoon? Would it be underpowered or not heavy enough?
Thanks
Old 02-27-2021, 07:22 PM
  #2  
Chad Veich
My Feedback: (60)
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 7,623
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

By the time you get enough nose weight in the airplane to balance it most ESM Typhoons I am aware of are coming in at 17-18 pounds or more. Really doubt that a 1.20 of any sort would be adequate to fly it. My .02 cents.
Old 02-28-2021, 09:31 AM
  #3  
braddock VC
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: dover, kent, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

FWIW I would contact Alan at westonuk.co.uk and ask him if he would recommend the combination as he is the main distributor for RCV, he is also a mine of information as he is/was an engine manufacturer.
If you do get to use it in the typhoon take especial care with the u/c and possibly rake the mains forward to help prevent nose overs as the props that motor uses are (i) as plentiful as unicorn crap and (ii) very expensive.
The only experience I had with rcv was with a 60 sp and it flew a a fokker triplane of about 11 pounds adequately. My memory says it had a unique, harsh engine sound.
It was one of the early engines and I believe westonuk have modified the latest model ( probably after 2010 though I can't be sure of that) to provide more torque.
You will probably be aware that cooling is a MAJOR issue on these engines as the incoming cooling air has to be turned thru 90 degrees to flow over the engine correctly though there should be oodles of space in a typhoon to achieve that with rudimentary baffles. Personally I think it would be close to marginal if the weight is up in that area but Hey, it's your $$$. Final tip, do not put any castor in the fuel if you want it to continue running reliably.
Old 02-28-2021, 02:28 PM
  #4  
allanflowers
 
allanflowers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,700
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

I had an RCV60SP in a 1/6th scale WW-I biplane and it was not good. Sounded like crap, had no power, overheated on a whim and really let me down - crashing the plane thirty seconds into the second flight. I think these engines are trash and wouldn't trust one ever again.
Old 03-01-2021, 06:09 AM
  #5  
Thomas Shekell
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for all the feedback.
Certainly helpful and I will keep all of that in mind, I know itís very hard finding a course enough pitched prop being a 2:1 geared engine so Iíll see how I go.
Have just pulled apart a used RCV 90sp and it is definitely a strange thing but interesting, need to make up a test stand to run in the new 120 with the 20x12 2B prop if I can find one as master airscrew donít make that size but I think APC do as I found on the westonuk website.

Last edited by Thomas Shekell; 03-01-2021 at 06:13 AM.
Old 03-01-2021, 06:58 AM
  #6  
braddock VC
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: dover, kent, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If you propose bench running it you will do well to find a source of cooling air eg a vacuum cleaner on blow to keep the engine temperature down. For these engines it's critical and, as I mentioned above, using any castor in the fuel is a recipe for seizing the engine.
If push comes to shove when running in use two large props in tandem with their blades at 90 degrees to each other and use a sleeve nut to secure them to the engine. If you live in the US you might try to contact APC direct to find out if they still make props, if you live in the UK drop me a pm as I have several 15 x 13 two blades that will probably do for running in and you can have a couple for the cost of the postage.
Old 03-01-2021, 07:17 AM
  #7  
Thomas Shekell
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by braddock VC View Post
If you propose bench running it you will do well to find a source of cooling air eg a vacuum cleaner on blow to keep the engine temperature down. For these engines it's critical and, as I mentioned above, using any castor in the fuel is a recipe for seizing the engine.
If push comes to shove when running in use two large props in tandem with their blades at 90 degrees to each other and use a sleeve nut to secure them to the engine. If you live in the US you might try to contact APC direct to find out if they still make props, if you live in the UK drop me a pm as I have several 15 x 13 two blades that will probably do for running in and you can have a couple for the cost of the postage.
Ok Iíll definitely keep that in mind, I thought just the prop wash would be enough but obviously not.
The manual says to use castor oil in the fuel mixture but itís starting to sound like a bad idea, the used RCV 90sp I got was totally seized and I stripped it and found it was gummed up with casted oil which is hard to remove (degreaser or brake clean struggle) but I eventually got it freeíd up again so Iíd say itíll run again fingers crossed, just need a new gudgeon pin plug for it which Iíve ordered from Westonuk and waiting to hear back.
They say to use a 20x12 2 blade prop for running in so thatís what Iím after but itís seeming quite difficult to find one, I can get an APC one but Iím based in Australia and postage from US is astronomical, Iím also after a 3 blade 17x12 prop for the Typhoon which APC make but itís way too expensive from their website.
The closest prop master airscrew make to the 3 blade 17x12 is a 16x10 but I donít think itís going to cut it as I need full performance from the engine, even though that is in the limits of the 120sp engine as the manual says a 10 to 14Ē pitch prop.
Only other option would be to get a different aluminium prop spinner for 2 blade and fly it with something like a 18x16 although probably only APC make that size.
Old 03-04-2021, 06:40 AM
  #8  
braddock VC
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: dover, kent, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm pretty sure you've found the reason why I discounted rcv engines back in the day, it all sounds good and probably is but the cost of props is phenomenal as I pointed out earlier. For you, being in OZ, getting spares can be an issue.
If you do overheat the engine you will know as they then leak oil like a blacksmiths sieve where the bolts stretch.
If I were you I'd try to sell it on to someone who talks a lot but does little and go for a conventional engine with an upgrade silencer, the tempest cowling on the YT one could probably hide a honda cbr engine without too much poking out.
Apologies for being negative but it is what it is.
Old 03-10-2021, 02:40 AM
  #9  
Thomas Shekell
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by braddock VC View Post
I'm pretty sure you've found the reason why I discounted rcv engines back in the day, it all sounds good and probably is but the cost of props is phenomenal as I pointed out earlier. For you, being in OZ, getting spares can be an issue.
If you do overheat the engine you will know as they then leak oil like a blacksmiths sieve where the bolts stretch.
If I were you I'd try to sell it on to someone who talks a lot but does little and go for a conventional engine with an upgrade silencer, the tempest cowling on the YT one could probably hide a honda cbr engine without too much poking out.
Apologies for being negative but it is what it is.
Well I was able to find a Graupner 18x12 3 blade prop which I think should be alright. Iím going to run with it and be very careful about mounting the engine for plenty of air flow and keep in mind the heat when running it. Do you know roughly what temp the cylinder cooling fins should be when running properly just so I can keep an eye on it with a laser temp gun? And also why didnít they design the engine with the cooling fins going the opposite direction for better airflow since the engine is on its side?
thanks
Old 03-10-2021, 06:07 AM
  #10  
braddock VC
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: dover, kent, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Thomas Shekell View Post
Well I was able to find a Graupner 18x12 3 blade prop which I think should be alright. Iím going to run with it and be very careful about mounting the engine for plenty of air flow and keep in mind the heat when running it. Do you know roughly what temp the cylinder cooling fins should be when running properly just so I can keep an eye on it with a laser temp gun? And also why didnít they design the engine with the cooling fins going the opposite direction for better airflow since the engine is on its side?
thanks
Absolutely no idea on either issue sorry.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.