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BUSA Fokker DVII

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BUSA Fokker DVII

Old 04-04-2014, 02:45 PM
  #326  
vertical grimmace
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This picture is of a model that had the entire cowling 3 D printed. You can see the rectangular cut outs. These are scale, in that I have documentation showing these on the full scale. So, they could be added for additional cooling if needed. Of course the trick to cooling is exit air and baffling.
I find this stuff so durable, I do not think heat will be an issue. My regular wood bandsaw blade did not like it. Maybe I will test a piece of drop material with heat after I cut my parts to size. What kind of glue did you use? Epoxy?
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:11 AM
  #327  
R/C Ray
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I'm really interested in the cooling of your engine. I got feedback from a firefighter that I found interesting. He told me that regular screen cuts 50% of the air flow. This scale screen looks to be a little more "solid" compared to regular screen. Please let us know how you make out after your flights.

Ray
Old 04-06-2014, 08:01 AM
  #328  
jeffEE
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I tested the parts with both epoxy and med CA. I think they both did fine. But the CA is almost instant, so have the parts in the correct place. A stress test on the glue joints was about the same. It took a lot of force to cause a break. Again, they are pretty tough parts.
Old 04-06-2014, 08:57 AM
  #329  
vertical grimmace
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Originally Posted by jeffEE View Post
I tested the parts with both epoxy and med CA. I think they both did fine. But the CA is almost instant, so have the parts in the correct place. A stress test on the glue joints was about the same. It took a lot of force to cause a break. Again, they are pretty tough parts.

Yah they are. As if there is some carbon fiber in there. Also, with them glued around the perimeter, inside the cowl frame, it should be quite strong. I am going through my entire DVII now, as I have a bunch of maintenance to do for the Nats this summer. Got pretty her up.
Old 04-14-2014, 10:20 AM
  #330  
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I am knee deep into working on my DVII. I actually have lots of stuff to do other than just install the radiator grill. Many years of service has necessitated some repairs and maintenance.
The big thing I am doing, is installing a DLE 55 RE engine. I was never happy with the power of the G38 in mine, so it is time to make the swap. The 55 with the rear exhaust, fits very nicely in there, and will allow me to spin a large diameter prop.

I also need to do some paint touchup, add a service panel for fueling and switch access. Also my blue rib stitching tapes have faded, so I am going to touch them up to be the right color again. Also, this thing has sat for almost 2 years in the shop, so it has a lot of dust on it!

Got my band saw blade, so I will be able to cut the radiator properly. I will post some pics of my progress.
Old 04-15-2014, 06:08 AM
  #331  
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Your gonna like the DLE in this plane. I have a DLE 50 in mine and I fly about 1/3 throttle. It's nice to have the power when you go into maneuvers. The G38 (especially the new version) needs a lot of break in time and tuning. I have a G38 in my SE5A which has finally started to come alive and pulls it through maneuvers really well. There was a time I thought this engine was destined to be a paper weight, but after a long break in period and tuning pulls just fine.

Good Luck,

Ray
Old 04-16-2014, 10:30 AM
  #332  
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I do not think I ever had the right prop for the G38. I started out with 20", but moved to a 19". I think it wants 18" props, but I will find that out with another model. One thing is for sure, the DVII wants a larger prop. The ailerons become ineffective at the top of maneuvers, and the added power and disc area will actually make this plane more fun to fly.
Old 04-16-2014, 01:10 PM
  #333  
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I am sure I have posted this somewhere on this thread before.. But my D7 is pretty heavy due to some overkill and finishing techniques.. I have a Poulan 46 cc chainsaw engine ..it lugs a 22/8 pretty well and makes the plane fly nicely ... If I recall it actually landed better with the 22/8 than with the 20/8. I am going to experiment with some lead removal this year.. I think I am a little to positive on the cg, and would like a bit more flair on landings.. HOPEFULLY I get it right and not to tail heavy !
Old 04-19-2014, 02:06 PM
  #334  
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Here are some pictures of my progress. I ended up using my table saw to cut the radiator mostly. You will see how I used my adjustable angle finder to set and determine, the miter angle needed. It just so happens to be 22.5 degrees, the typical octagon miter angle. That is where the table saw is very valuable. I am working from the center out, and top down, scribing in to fit on the outer sides and bottom. This helps create nice tight joints. I have not glued anything in place yet. Once I have all of the added wood I need on the cowl, and have it all cleaned up like I like, I will start to glue in the radiator pieces. When cutting, this material tends to melt. So it will be necessary to clean some of this burr material to be cleaned out of the holes. Overall, this is going very well, and is going to make a huge difference in the finished look of the model. Also note, that is a brand new DLE 55 that was installed a few days ago. I needed to get that in place, before I did this work on the cowl.


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Last edited by vertical grimmace; 04-19-2014 at 02:13 PM.
Old 04-19-2014, 02:08 PM
  #335  
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:10 PM
  #336  
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:03 AM
  #337  
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A little more progress. Left side fitted now. I need to clean up the fit on my cowl, and fill some gaps, holes and such. I am very happy though with how the front end is shaping up.


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Old 04-20-2014, 05:13 PM
  #338  
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Looks good! I am glad to see that you had to re-work the top of your cowl. Not because you had to do the work, but because I did it the same way, and mine needed re-working too. And since your work is way above mine, I feel that I got it correct. The bottom of my V11 cowl is different than your DVII. Were 2 parts enough to do the job for you? Again.. looks good!
Old 04-20-2014, 05:30 PM
  #339  
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Thanks for the compliments. No, I am using 3. I think he is offering a narrower width, or a different size, but I actually have the prototype parts. I figured I would want some extra to experiment with.

The Fokker DVII is a little tricky in that there are 3 variants and then between them, the documentation varies greatly. Mine is not exact scale to a mid production Albatros version, (which is what mine is), but I have docs showing it the way mine is. Artistic license in the docs I suppose.

Part of all of this process is to clean up, and make this thing look pretty again. Flying these models has a certain amount of wear and tear, so now is the time to make it contest ready. The sides of the fuselage are really pretty ugly right now as I removed the aluminum louvers. They will go back on, and I plan to hinge one of the access panels on one side to get to my switches, choke, charging plugs and fuel dot. I am also thinking about running my fuel tank vent line down one of the landing gear struts to the ground, under the axel wing. This has worked out great on my new triplane.
All of this stuff will not take long, and I hope to have this bird flying again within a couple of weeks. I have wanted to go back to the Nats for so long, and I am very excited for this upcoming flying season. I think it will be a lot of fun!
Old 04-22-2014, 03:29 PM
  #340  
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That radiator looks great. That material appears to be pretty thick though? I would definitely want to see how the engine cooling is effected by this material. Has anyone had any flights with this new radiator material yet? Let us know.

Ray
Old 04-22-2014, 04:15 PM
  #341  
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I had the material made .375" thick. It looked about right to the photos I have of the full scale. The thickness is one of the keys to getting the look, as the very thin wire screen mesh generally used, just does not cut it.
It is important to remember that cooling is more about exit air evacuation, than entry air. Flowing the air over the right areas, and then getting it out. There is a ton of exit area behind my engine, but I may look at making some of my louvers functional. The shape of the louvers actually create low pressure, and are perfectly suited for this task. Of course we shall see, but I am pretty confident there is enough air going in.
Old 04-23-2014, 09:29 PM
  #342  
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New prop showed up today. 23-8 Xoar. These scale Axial props are really cool. Can fly with this one. A bit spendy though.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:26 PM
  #343  
3136
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vertical, I wonder if they could 3d print the side panels with the holes at 22.5 deg, you would get much better air flow that way.
Nice prop BTW.
Old 04-25-2014, 06:02 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by 3136 View Post
vertical, I wonder if they could 3d print the side panels with the holes at 22.5 deg, you would get much better air flow that way.
Nice prop BTW.
But then it would not be scale! lol. I am really not worried about the airflow. It is pretty open. It just does not look like it.
Old 04-27-2014, 07:10 AM
  #345  
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Got some gaps closed up, and a little spot putty now. Close to shooting some primer/paint, and having this part of the refurbish done.


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Old 04-28-2014, 02:38 PM
  #346  
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Well I went out to fly the new parts ( and the plane its attached to) on Sat. But the wind and cold just made it a bad idea. This weekend I will try again and let you know how it handles the heat.
Old 05-02-2014, 08:15 PM
  #347  
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Looking forward to the report. Getting real close on the front end of mine now. I am gonna make some updates on my dummy engine. Lot's left for me to do to get this flying again. Need a little touch up here and there. some weathering as well. I have some shading in with the airbrush, but not sure I am happy with it quite yet.

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Old 05-03-2014, 12:12 PM
  #348  
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I am doing a little work on my dummy engine as well. I needed to clean it up some, touch up the paint, and I added new rocker springs. I also touched up the iron paint. It is getting a fresh patina of rust! Rust may not be 100% scale, if the plane were in service, but it gives a great impression. The engine in the aircraft is up front and center, and seems to be the thing that most people focus on.
Again, this was built from the Proctor kit, that is supplied with their Fokker DVII kit. I talked them into selling me one, 7 years ago!


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Old 05-03-2014, 01:24 PM
  #349  
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Well, it was off to the field this morning. Wow, it sure was windy there. No problem, flying is out for the day, but I can still run the motor and see if the new parts melt. Crap! I can't get it to start. I gave up after 2 hours. Time to take it home and go thru the checklist to see whats wrong. Sorry, no report yet.
Old 05-03-2014, 01:39 PM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by jeffEE View Post
Well, it was off to the field this morning. Wow, it sure was windy there. No problem, flying is out for the day, but I can still run the motor and see if the new parts melt. Crap! I can't get it to start. I gave up after 2 hours. Time to take it home and go thru the checklist to see whats wrong. Sorry, no report yet.
Which engine are you using again? The 4-stroke? Dang, 2 hours is a long time to mess with a no start. Well, I hope you get it running. There is a possibility I will test run mine tomorrow. I may need to invest in one of those point and shoot heat guns. I have a really hot install on my Fokker DR1. That is actually the plane that worries me. The Fokker DVII is wide open in the engine area. Plenty of area for the heat to go.
One thing i did as well, because there were reports of the DLE 55 rear exhaust getting too much heat to the carb, I drilled a hole in the firewall, and added a velocity stack. This will give good static air thru the intake, and eliminate the heat getting to the intake air. I still do not believe this was the problem for that pilot/builder, but it is always good to get static air to the intake.

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