vertical grimmace

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Rework of the front end and dummy complete. Now on to finishing engine set up. Then I will work back toward the tail cleaning up some paint, fixing accuracy errors in my markings, and painting my rib tapes as they faded from blue to silver over the years.

jeffEE

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The motor is the NGH 38cc gas four stroke. I am not to worried, it was a bear to get started out of the box. But once it ran a few times, it was easy to start. I also ran the Saito 2.20 for the first time this year. Man, do I love that motor. 6 years old, it turned 72-7400 wot and 2200 idle with a Xoar 20 x 8 prop.

R/C Ray

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Just got back from the Spring Rhinebeck Fun Fly. I got in three flights with my D7, until my solder joints failed again. Talking with the other flyers I got different feedback. First, has anyone heard of a chronic vibration problem with the DL 50? I have problems with the solder joints on the wing struts. The machine guns also are taking a beating (mounts breaking etc). I was thinking about some sort of vibration mount for the engine

jeffEE

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I had one of my first solder joints fail. but then I am a CRAPPY solderer (is solderer even a word?). After I cleaned all the metal parts better, I have not had an issue. And I would think that if vibration was causing the problem, the NGH 38 would shake the joints to bits. As to the 3D printer parts holding up to the heat, I put in 2 flights today, and had no issues with melting parts or overheating of the motor. It was a cool day, about 54 and a breeze, but I think they will be fine.

vertical grimmace

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That is great news. I got my engine running last weekend and it works great, DLE 55. I am just going through and touching up paint, before I put everything back together. I am painting all of the struts again as well.
Another thing I am doing is getting all of the nomenclature lettering done from Get Stencils. These are all of the little words and such that are impossible to paint. I am getting them dry rub.
Once they have them done, it will be easy for any of you to order them for your DVII as they will be sized correctly. You can have them change the werk numbers to match your plane. Dry rubs are a great way to go, as they have no carrier blush like a water slide decal does.
I need to airbrush my rib tapes again as well, as the color faded from blue to silver. That will take a little while. Here is a pic of my access panel I hinged to expose my switches and controls. The red digital read out is a tachometer, wired to the ignition. Pretty cool stuff. Another mod I made was to run the fuel tank over flow through the landing gear strut, so it vents to the ground and will save the axel wing from destruction! Should have mine flying again in about a week if I can stay focused.

vertical grimmace

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A little progress on the tapes. I think it makes a difference. They were supposed to be blue anyway. At least on this plane.

vertical grimmace

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I have a DL 50 in a 1/5th Mig 3, I have never had any serious vibration with it, at least any more than I generally experience with big gassers. Which solder joints? There are a lot of them. The key is to use the expensive silver solder. I have never had one of those joints break. And in spite of what they say in the instructions, you need a torch. One of those little ones that runs on butane. They are like $30 at the depot.
The keys to a good solder joint, scuff sand the parts, clean them with a solvent like alcohol or lacquer thinner, Use flux, and most importantly, melt the solder with the heated parts, not the torch or iron itself! This is the reason why you need a torch. You have to get the parts really hot, then you could switch to your heavy duty weller soldering gun to maintain the heat. This is particularly important on the landing gear. You may be able to just use a good gun on the solder tabs for the wing mounts, but I always reach for the torch.

I suppose another thing to do is make sure your props are balanced very well, and make sure your engine is tuned properly. If it is Rich, it will shake. Another lesson to learn about the Gassers. They need to be leaned in to run properly. Well, just like a glow engine really.

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the feedback. I have just about all the BUSA 1/4 scale planes and this is the only one that breaks the solder joints. I use Stay Brite solder, but it still breaks. Unfortunately, you can't use straight silver solder because the joint has to be soldered on the airframe to insure proper alignment. Using a torch would destroy the airframe. I'll try to lean out the engine to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks,
Ray

vertical grimmace

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Maybe if needed, you can create a soldering jig like the one used on the Fokker DR1. This would be sacrificial, and then you can get the heat to those tabs? Another idea, might be to fabricate a solid plate that ties the front and rear Cabane struts together? Again, like the triplane. This would make that a solid structure able to withstand more stress.

Jim scott

I have built both the 1/4 scale and1/3 scale they both fly great as long as their not under powered

vertical grimmace

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Check this out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZZ82xiWP7w#t=17

So cool to see aerobatics, with the awesome in close camera work. Original 160 hp engine as well.

vertical grimmace

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Here it is,pretty much ready to start flying. I want to touch up a couple of things here and there. Really happy with the radiator material.

TFF

Looks like a winner.

vertical grimmace

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Thanks TFF, Now I just have to fly the darn thing!

vertical grimmace

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I finally was able to get some flights in last night. 3 to be exact. The weather here has been really bad. Typical spring.

The DLE 55 is a perfect engine for this plane I believe, and wish I would have been able to install one earlier. The Rear exhaust is what makes it more feasible though. It just flies better. It seems easier to land as well. The large prop gives better overall thrust. The rolls are improved as well.

Also, no over heating issues, or melting radiator. That worked out very well. Pretty happy here, so now it is time to practice!

vertical grimmace

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Warbird event last weekend. Flew with a Sopwith Pup. Great event.

foodstick

Ray.. if you are still following this thread and want a trick to try on your soldering fitting while they are on the plane..Tear off a couple sheets of aluminum foil and lay it over the solder section, then plug in your piano wires to the locations..clean, wrap with wire, flux... now if you are careful you can use a torch without immediately destroying the balsa.

R/C Ray

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FS,

Thanks for for the reply. I already use the foil method when I solder. I have had some success by making thicker "lugs" out of brass. I had four great flights today with NO solder failures! That's really good for this plane.

Ray.

jeffEE

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Cool. Glad to hear your fix did the trick. Gotta love the DVII!

foodstick

yes you do ! The ole D7 is a flying machine.

vertical grimmace

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I have to agree as well. I was able to get perfect 10 scores on my take offs and landings at the Scale Nats. I love my DVII.

jeffEE

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well, the Northern Alliance Military Fly In held it's 10th gathering this weekend. It was a great event as always. More than 100 pilots and I think more than 300 planes. I was honored to have my Fokker awarded WWI Champion. Gotta love that DVII

foodstick

Wow 100 pilots is a pretty good sized flyin !

The ole Fokker trophied as well, good job.

R/C Ray

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Hey Jeffee, great job......DVII looks great! Listen People, I hate to take advantage of this site, but I' m desperate. I would like to scratch build a 1/4 scale Fokker DVI. I understand that a Dave Johnson has plans for one that he built. The problem is getting in touch with him. My friend has had limited Emails with Dave, but I can't seem to close the deal. Does anyone know Dave on a personnel level that could have him contact me? I'm not looking for a handout, I'm willing to pay for the plans. Thanks in advance......


Ray.

vertical grimmace

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I would think Dave would have no problem selling you plans, if he has a DVI. I did not know he designed that model. It would be nice to have a set of them. It is just partly a Fokker DR1 and partly a shorter wing DVII.
Look for Cocobear in here. That is his handle. He was hanging out in the FW 190 ARF forumn in the warbirds section. He designed that ARF I believe.