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Old 08-07-2002, 12:22 PM
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Default Building board

Hi everyone,
I'd like to know what people are using as a flat building board. I've always used a hollow door and was wondering if there's a better way. I usually throw out the door after one or two models, since they tend to bulge, twist and bow after a period of time. They're cheap enough, usually around $25 at Home Depot, but it is a bit of a pain buying and disposing.
Thanks,
Jon
Old 08-07-2002, 12:57 PM
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Your experience is the exact reason I use a solid core door. No problems. I have a double sized Lindh Magnetic building surface on mine. Been using this combo for 6 years and the door and surface are still totally flat.

Got my door for about $30.00 at Home Depot..

Dan
Old 08-07-2002, 04:06 PM
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Same here, solid core Mahagony door and have been using the same side for 10 years now.
Old 08-07-2002, 04:09 PM
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Ditto

I picked up 4 surplus Lab fire doors from a local university 4X8 and ~100 pounds each!

I picked up a wing/fuselage jig a couple years ago, going to give that a try for my next project.....
Old 08-07-2002, 05:14 PM
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I just put in a 4X8' piece of 1/2" temperd glass for my building table. Can't get much flatter than that! Got the idea from the Platt videos. I'll never go back to any other type of table!
Hans
Old 08-07-2002, 07:23 PM
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How do you stick the pins in the glass? Jus kiddin' I know what you mean.
Old 08-07-2002, 11:41 PM
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Green River,
It ain't easy!! If I use T pins and try to pound them in with a hammer, they just bend over. If I use larger nails, the table shatters! I'll have to try and go another way. Maybe softer nails!
Hans
Old 08-08-2002, 03:47 AM
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Jim Meister recomended a glass tabletop in his Master Scale Mustang kit. I put the plans under the glass and instead of pins used small drops of Zap to hold the pieces to the glass. When you had the wing panel framed you just took a thin putty knife and gently popped the panel loose from the glass. Worked great and the plane came out absolutly straight. Works best with kits that have tabs on the ribs or build flat to the surface. Don
Old 08-08-2002, 10:05 AM
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i use a solid core oak door which a got as a damaged item from a local place for $25. then i bought 2' x 4' ceiling tile at lowe's. i used 3m 77 to glue wax paper to the door and then more 3m 77 to glue the ceiling tile to the wax paper. i use weights to hold the ceiling tile down to the door until the 3m 77 took.

when i want to change the tiles they peel right off the wax paper, and then i glue more tiles to the wax paper. so far i have not had any problem with the tiles coming off the wax paper too soon. i am careful to buy flat tiles and i glue them down immediately when i get home so they stay flat.

i use the non- decorative side up as this side is nice and even- no patterns etc.

ed
Old 08-08-2002, 07:26 PM
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I got a G.P. balsa building board. Works like a charm! Perfectly flat, and smooth.
Old 08-25-2002, 09:40 PM
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Default Home Depot won't deal

I'm looking to start my project and went to Home Depot. I found a damaged 36x80 solid core door and they only wanted to take off 10% for the damage (44.00 full price). The door was so damaged that it could not be used. After waiting 20 min for the Manager to show up he said that they "have alot in the door" . He goes on to tell me that they send items like this back and get full credit so they don't have to discount anything
Looks like I'll be shopping elsewhere. Pete
Old 08-25-2002, 10:58 PM
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A good ol'e sheet of drywall works great and its cheap.

Dave
Old 08-26-2002, 04:10 AM
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I use a 4X8 piece of 3/4 MDF on a custom frame and I also have a piece of 1/2 inch glass about 2 feet by 6 feet or so. I really like the MDF as it stays nice and flat and when one side gets mucked up I just unbolt it and flip it over. I tack glue jigs to the glass and MDF just as Pittsdriver says. Works great and cleans up quite easily with a scraper and sanding block. Just don't get the MDF wet!

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