AlabamaRaptor

My Feedback: (3)

Is there a way to make the rudder control hidden on a scale model? I'm building an 87" C-130 and would like to keep the rudder control hidden since I do have clearence under the vertical stab. In fact my rudder servo will be mounted under the vertical stad. I was thinking of 5/32" piano wire bent at 90 degrees on one end that would be placed along the hinge line and decending down into the plane where I would bend it 90 degrees at this end but this bend would be 90 degrees from the first bend. Does this sound fiesible? Any ideas would be GREAT! Thanks.

carlbecker

My Feedback: (3)

I forget who makes them but I have some rotating control rod devices. Flaps are 90 degrees but ailerons are about 45 degrees.

Carl

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like bending all that wire would make it a problem to get in and out if repairs are needed. Why not just extend the rudder post into the tail cone and use a control horn with a set screw, then run your linkage to the servo from there?. Make a small access panel directly under the rudder hinge line (it should come out just behind the lift-up portion of the cargo ramp if you are including that detail). I think I'd want my servos further forward just so tail-heaviness doesn't become an issue as you get close to completion. Every little bit of weight will count later.

AlabamaRaptor

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks... I'll look into both of these.

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

That's what I would suggest, is to run a torque tube down into the tailcone with a bellcrank at the bottom......you would then have a perfect setup for a pull-pull rudder system, then you could mount the rudder servo anywhere along the spine of the fuselage...

AlabamaRaptor

My Feedback: (3)

Where can I get a torque tube? I'm not familiar with that name but I may recognize it if I saw one. I did a search on Tower Hobbies and did find any torque tubes.

Idigbo

Alabamaraptor, your method will work very well indeed, but it is a fit and forget linkage at the rudder end, so it needs to be a spot on linkage from the start. Advisable to support the bottom end of the wire, just befor the lower bend. The advantage of doing it your way, is that there are no joints to fail as the wire is all one piece. Use a good clevis and use a keeper on it and you wont go wrong. Use a locknut on the clevis to threaded rod as well. Even more permanent linkage is a Z bend at the rudder end, with the adjustment at the servo end. Go for it.

Ian.

AlabamaRaptor

My Feedback: (3)

Tahnks Ian. For my way I was thinking of using a 12" 4-40 threaded rod (after really thinking about it) inserted about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the rudder. Bend it 90 degrees towards the bottom and use a nylon sleeve where the rod goes through the fuselage. Once in the fuselage bend it another 90 degress but 90 degrees opposite of the 1st bend. Then attach a ball link to the threaded end in the fuselage and connect it to the servo by another 4-40 rod.

Strat2003

My Feedback: (1)

Alabama, I've done what you describe many times with several variations and it's always worked well. It's really no different from a strip aileron hookup other than being enclosed.
It's also possible to do a pull-pull setup like that. The torque rod is soldered to adouble sided .032 brass horn.....the rod runs through a hole in the center of the horn and solders along the bottom surface.
Just be sure to do your best work with good hardware and check everything for security and freedom of motion before you close it in.