Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

I will get pics as soon as I get back home from holiday. I am in the process of preparing mine for glass as well. I'm figuring that I will add roughly 1lb after glass and paint. On my P-47 I sheeted the tail section to strengthen it a bit and after I was done the 20cc fit up front without any weight needed and the receiver and ignition batteries sit right on the CG. Here are a couple pics of the P-47, don't have any of the Corsair on my laptop.

The more I thought about your plane being 13lbs and on a 40 size airframe the more I am starting to agree with Riddle4U on cleaning it up and make it a hanger. Unless you got out and sanded a ton of the glass off to get rid of some weight. I think what you have on their with the OS 1.20 surpass is better than the 17cc. I think if you got that weight down to around 9-10lbs that 17cc or even the RCGF15cc would be an excellent match.

Shane

maddingo

Hey Gang,

I have acquired a 60 royal corsair. Its built up and ready to glass. However before I do that I wish to add retracts rather than hold on to the fixed gear.

Now I have the plans and will print them out soon how to those who have built this bird. Do you see any issues with me cutting into the sheeting underneath the wing and adding the necessary wood to install retracts. Also adding servos to make functioning flaps.

thanks for your help.

Dave

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

My corsair is not the off scale .40 sized plane. Mine is the senior .60 sized corsair which is true to scale. Same one Luke Zolllner built, the only difference is mine was all ready built so I didn't scale it out. Also my reason for considering the 17cc gas is that from my experience gas engines provide more torque while glow engines provide more speed. A gas engine would provide the torque to haul it around and it wouldn't be racing around the sky like a quickee 500 race plane.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

It just depends on where the ribs are located in accordance to where the retracts go, you may need to add support to the surrounding area as well. Does this bird really need to be glassed? I am doing my H9 Corsair originally due to the poor quality of the wood around the front of the fuselage. Now I decided I want to paint it with a new scheme as well.

Shane

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

try searching for royal corsair build and scanning the pages for pictures of the build in progress so you know what is underneath the sheeting.
Good choice on glassing it. From my experience with the royal corsair I have, and due to its age the sheeting was becoming brittle thus m y reason for glass, also glass will give the appearance of fabric on the outer wing panels thus increasing its scale appearance.

Riddle4U

Dave, something I will say here is a result of the years I have lived since building my first scale model.....do not be afraid! I have seen people bring out the torch to a fancy old classic American car-body. What could be scarier than ruining a classic car? We're just fussin' with balsa and maybe fiberglass. Cut in! Modify! Be courageous![sm=47_47.gif]

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Wow, that's either a grossly padded estimate or you are doing some industrial grade glassing! If you use 'Deft' laquer based wood sealer for two coats over the "ready-2-glas" model with a light rubdown in between, and then use 'Minwax" clear polycrylic to tack down and fill your glasscloth weave, it makes glassing a breeze. It also winds up wieghing next to nothing...I've done two layers of 1oz cloth, with 2 coats in between, no sanding, then 5 more coats-lightly sanded after the third-then 6 or 8 cans of primer,sanded, and then 6 or 8 cans of color plus epoxy finish for fuel proofing and not added more than 6 oz on a 65'' to 72" WS plane. 85% of the wieght of paint material is the carrier/vehicle and evaporates off, the pigment has very little wieght. same with the 'deft' and the 'polycrylic'. 90% of the primer applied gets sanded right back off as you spot fill and smooth out the finish as well.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

That was just a rough estimate based off my buddies recent glass and paint job on our flagship and the mods to the tail before glassing.

Flagship links,

[link]http://colorado-rc.com/temp/glass/[/link] - glassing

[link]http://www.colorado-rc.com/temp/temp/[/link] - applying paint (a friend helping get started on paint)

[link]http://colorado-rc.com/temp/finishedfuse/[/link] - fuselage finished

I will be using Zap finishing epoxy and 3/4oz cloth, then a solvent based body putty to fill after wards. I am looking to keep it as light as possible. Same thing with my seaplane that is being finished now. I should have it home by the end of January and start glassing it as well. It will be the water version of our Flagship. I always open for suggestions as this is my first time glassing.

Shane

Riddle4U

Shane, just as a side note...my favorite supply company, Sig, has .6 oz or maybe lighter glass. Glassing is far, far, easier than monokoting! Just a bit messier. I have used epoxy thinned with alcohol when glassing. Many suggest the "West Systems" marine epoxy. Experiment first on "test balsa" with the thinned epoxy. Temperature needs to be a bit over room temp of 70 degrees when thinned I found. Pigmented paints, and also primers are heavier than clear. Keep both of the forementioned minimal, polish off the clear coat well with fine "auto body polishing compound". You probably can achieve a great finish and be not too much heavier than film covering. It definitely is heavier though, with the best of practices...still, do it I say! Use 400 then 600 wet paper for sanding the final part, then polish. Good luck!

as an edit, having looked through those links, it would seem like that might be a heavy finish? Nice looking...and who doesn't love the Colorado flag (well, partial). Good idea to use "institutional toilet paper" rolled over the resin, so as to leave a dry or apparent weave. Thinned spackling compound, and totally sanded down is not a bad filler. When carefully sanded you see just the weave filled. Then prime, sand almost all of it off. Should be good for light color coat then. Nice looking trainer there!

Riddle4U

Oh...also, one might go to the first post of my Zeke, it was glassed and the finish is mighty thin. I was carefull to "TP" most of the resin off before filling the weave. The plane isn't weighed yet, but the airframe as you see it minus engine and radio feels around 7.5 pounds (I have dumbells, but no expensive digital scale....yet). I suppose the final weight will be close to a "normal" ten pounds for the scale model (yea, these have a bit of a high wing loading).

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

Now that my 23 year old Rare Bear project is done, I can start on some other waiting projects! A freind of mine bought this Royal Piper Colt that was sitting in a hobby shop collecting dust back in the 80's. He decided to bash it into a Piper Tripacer. I guess they are fairly close in shape. Well he lost intrest long ago and gave it to me. Since my board is clear, I will work on this some before I put it away again. Just under 57" span. By the way there are a lot of pictures of Tripacers on the net! The picture on the box is closer to what the model looks like. A colt on a diet! It is not one of Royal's more scale designs!

Edit: Even reduced pictures are large today I'll just post one for now!

khelsea

I have the royal supercub 1/4 scale plans that I'm scratchbuilding. Does anyone remember if the windshield was a formed one or just flat stock bent into place. The plans don't have a pattern to cut from. Thanks, Khelsea

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

Well, she framed up pretty quick! I have to admit most of it was already done[sm=wink_smile.gif]. The kitbash from Colt to Tripacer is well underway. Frese ailerons from just tapered cut outs like what was in the kit. Flaps added. Extended nose gear mount forward to scale location. Next is a little soldering for the main gear, and a Robart robostrut nosegear with yoke. The fuse is too skinny for scale but this will be a fun model anyway. Once the gear is done, the model goes back to the Boneyard and I get back to the heavy metal.

Edit- the pictures are normal todayhmmm!

ARUP

Does this count? I got the impetus to build a Bleriot XI of my own design by helping a friend build his Royal Bleriot. We both bought these kits. I designed a wing warp mechansim for them. Instead of building the Royal kit (which I still have) I drew my own plans in order to have a more accurate model. The Royal Bleriot flies very well, for those interested. Just remember it is a Bleriot and not a rocket ship!

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

That looks great! Of course your vintage pilot has just walked out of frame.

Riddle4U

Terrific. ARUP! Scale isn't dead! Dail, I actually like the pic of your Tri-Pacer (or whatever it is now). Even "scale" models that aren't quite up to snuff are great to see at the field! You'll get a lot of querries. Anything but ARF's?! That's my sentiment (not that I would never, ever buy one mind you). ARF's are fine, I just want to see the continuation of the builders aesthetic, and creativity. Remember the old "Scale R/C Modeller" anyone? I loved that little pub! I hope people still buy the published mags...they funnel diverse and varied interests to us all (we don't have to like all of it). The internet tends to focus us on what we are interested in. The "accidental interest", is not as likely with everyone finding "their thread" on the internet. Sometimes buying a mag, and having something in your face is a nice way to experience a new interest. That is my rambling for the moment...Happy New Year all ye scale modellers! Also all ye builders, whether scale or not! Build 'em and fly 'em...if you crash 'em you'll know what to do.

ARUP

LOL- the pilot hopped a ride in the Bristol Boxkite before I could snap his pic! Plus, all the oil and smudges from the engine exhaust made him a little camera shy!

cotman

My Feedback: (10)

Couple of us in my club are each building a old Royal P-26 Peashooter. I've built a few kits before... but nothing like this one. Has anyone built this plane and care to share any tips or tricks in its build

ARUP

Dig thru some of the recent threads here. There are some guys building the P-26 who have made their own molds from the kit parts in order to have glassed parts.

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

cotman is actually the guy that did most of the work on the glass parts for our build. I guess he didn't read through this thread before posting. Hey cotman, this whole thread is worth a read, lots of good info.

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

I am so glad that I can show some progress on a Royal kit, rather than just talking about it! Although I am putting this one away for a while to move to other projects that are not for this thread. It has gear now. I'll bet there are not many Royal Colt Jr.'s around. Especialy that are bashed into a Tripacer![sm=wink_smile.gif].

khelsea

on the windshield question was there a formed windshield on the supercub or was it flat stock?

Riddle4U

Thanks Scale Dail! I really love the pics of that plane! Maybe we have forgotten something in this hobby. Royal's models varied in scale integrity, apparently...the worst of which are still super cooool! Let us see how people's efforts are going, for better or worse. From what I have seen, it is clearly for the better! Happy New Year builders!- Eric

CaptainBlueSky

Thank you, Eric

May the dawning of this New Year, fill your heart with new hopes, open up new horizons and bring for you promises of brighter tomorrows. May you all Royal builders and/or collectors have a great New Year.


Here is a link to the [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9401552/anchors_9401552/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9401552]ROYAL - MARUTAKA and MK KITS COMPLETE LISTING [/link] I am trying to compile.

Please feel free to participate in sending some missing informations, copies of old catalogs or nice picture.

Al

Ethesis

I'm still wording on the P-38. The tail frame is somewhat completed. The ribs, parts S-1 and S-2, are 3/32 off center for the spars, so i think i'll need to reconstruct the whole frame. Besides that, the whole tail looks a little thicker than most tails I see from this thread. Maybe im just paranoid... i don't know. The wing ribs are all finished except for those slots the spars slide into, except for W-5 and W-7. the person who copied the plans cut off the bottom half of the rib so not i have to guestimate the curve. I figure if i take the curve of the ribs on either side and find something in between ill be safe. Rather be sure so if anyone has ideas or the plans it would be really helpful. I load up pictures of the tail when i get a chance.
Thanks for any help