Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
#51
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Your approach in the pictures will work just fine. The fuselage on this particular model has the roots molded in at the proper angle. Just block it to where the Robart reads 0 and put the firewall in at 90 degrees to the table surface. Set the horizontal stab at zero zero with the wing panels and balance it at the tick marks molded into the root fairings.
It is a very neutral flyer upright or inverted. It is just a touch squirrely on take off as there is a point where the tail wants to lift before the vertical fin and rudder become fully effective. In flight it grooves and is scale aerobatic capable.
It is a very neutral flyer upright or inverted. It is just a touch squirrely on take off as there is a point where the tail wants to lift before the vertical fin and rudder become fully effective. In flight it grooves and is scale aerobatic capable.
#52
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Gremlin Castle thanks for the feedback.
derjager also responded with:
"Hi pete,
Have flown the WWR alot recently and am really enjoying it.
Last time I flew was at Joe Nall a few weeks ago, its on the front cover of the video and there is a feature on it as well.
I,m not sure of the incidence but it matches exactly the fairing so I would set it flush with the fairing.
Mine flies really well and does not balloon at full power. I think I said previously that the trim alters with the power setting.
At Joe Nall it was windy so landing was a handful in front of the cameras.
Best wishes
Steve "
I glued the aluminum rails in place with the wing incidence at 1 degree. The wood wing roots lined up with the fiberglass wing roots.
Will post photos later.
Thanks a bunch.
Pete
derjager also responded with:
"Hi pete,
Have flown the WWR alot recently and am really enjoying it.
Last time I flew was at Joe Nall a few weeks ago, its on the front cover of the video and there is a feature on it as well.
I,m not sure of the incidence but it matches exactly the fairing so I would set it flush with the fairing.
Mine flies really well and does not balloon at full power. I think I said previously that the trim alters with the power setting.
At Joe Nall it was windy so landing was a handful in front of the cameras.
Best wishes
Steve "
I glued the aluminum rails in place with the wing incidence at 1 degree. The wood wing roots lined up with the fiberglass wing roots.
Will post photos later.
Thanks a bunch.
Pete
#53
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Here are the rest of the photo's.
The formers are dry fitted then the wings were placed per instructions with the root TE on the same 1 1/4 in block as the fuse and the W7 rib supported by a 2 1/4 in block (mine was longer to makeup the difference in the in the root block) Incidence was checked and set at 1 degree. The wings were taped to the fuse. The aluminum extrusions were dry fitted and the formers adjusted and checked for level. The extrusions were sanded on the back cleaned with alcohol then epoxied in place and allowed to dry after checking all level points and wing incidence for a final time.
The aluminum extrusions were drilled and screws placed with blue locktight after hardening the holes with thin CA. The formers were replaced and everything shimmed again and measured. Aeropoxy was used to set everything. I did one side at a time and on the reverse made sure I was getting aeropoxy into the gaps between the former and the fiberglass. The dried result looks rock solid. No extra fiberglass will be used.
Pete
The formers are dry fitted then the wings were placed per instructions with the root TE on the same 1 1/4 in block as the fuse and the W7 rib supported by a 2 1/4 in block (mine was longer to makeup the difference in the in the root block) Incidence was checked and set at 1 degree. The wings were taped to the fuse. The aluminum extrusions were dry fitted and the formers adjusted and checked for level. The extrusions were sanded on the back cleaned with alcohol then epoxied in place and allowed to dry after checking all level points and wing incidence for a final time.
The aluminum extrusions were drilled and screws placed with blue locktight after hardening the holes with thin CA. The formers were replaced and everything shimmed again and measured. Aeropoxy was used to set everything. I did one side at a time and on the reverse made sure I was getting aeropoxy into the gaps between the former and the fiberglass. The dried result looks rock solid. No extra fiberglass will be used.
Pete
#56
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: DAN REISS
Hi, Are the aluminum joiner channels bolted to the spar with flat head machine screws and epoxied or just epoxied? Dan.
Hi, Are the aluminum joiner channels bolted to the spar with flat head machine screws and epoxied or just epoxied? Dan.
The aluminum extrusion pieces are first epoxied to the formers then drilled and screwed for reinforcement to the formers.
Pete
I edited the above post to better explain the process...
#57
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
The mounting rails are next up. They were dry fitted before the formers were installed so little sanding needed here, Epoxied in place. The holes for the 4-40 1/2 in bolts were drilled and set into the aluminum extrusions. I had used a Sharpie marker on the plates to better see where to drill. The ply mounting plate was measured and drilled with a 3/16 bit. The holes for the blind nuts were enlarged with the Unibit to 7/32. Unfortunately the blind nuts protruded past the surface and needed to be filed down so the aluminum gear rest flush with the ply plate. The fuse needed trimming to make the gear fit flush with the plate and former. The plate was centered and 3/16 holes drilled in the rails. The Unibit was used to enlarge the holes for the blind nuts and they were placed with epoxy.
Pete
Pete
#58
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Time for flying wires...
At this point your to epoxy the ply plate to the rails then the servo tray to the top of the rails. once this is done your ability to access the inner fuse diminishes.
I've been toying with several options for flying wires. From the real thing to "faux" wires. The number of wires needed and the time to assemble and disassemble at the field eliminated real wires. I read a review on the GP BeeGee here on RCU and adding flying wires was shown http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=351
The results looked good but when I reviewed my WWR photo's the wires are very different. The entry points into the fuse and wing are clean going through the skin with no hardware shown. I decided to use the silver plastic lace material and make one continuous wire from the left gear up through a 5/16 styrene tube in the left wing to another styrene tube through the fuse out to the right wing down another tube through the wing and to the right landing gear anchor point. This gives only 2 wires and 4 clevises to deal with at the field.
Please give some feedback on this approach. The only consideration I see so far is the former for the engine mount. I dry fitted the former and it's real close to where the tube needs to run (see photo). Having the tube a few mm aft may be necessary.
Pete
At this point your to epoxy the ply plate to the rails then the servo tray to the top of the rails. once this is done your ability to access the inner fuse diminishes.
I've been toying with several options for flying wires. From the real thing to "faux" wires. The number of wires needed and the time to assemble and disassemble at the field eliminated real wires. I read a review on the GP BeeGee here on RCU and adding flying wires was shown http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=351
The results looked good but when I reviewed my WWR photo's the wires are very different. The entry points into the fuse and wing are clean going through the skin with no hardware shown. I decided to use the silver plastic lace material and make one continuous wire from the left gear up through a 5/16 styrene tube in the left wing to another styrene tube through the fuse out to the right wing down another tube through the wing and to the right landing gear anchor point. This gives only 2 wires and 4 clevises to deal with at the field.
Please give some feedback on this approach. The only consideration I see so far is the former for the engine mount. I dry fitted the former and it's real close to where the tube needs to run (see photo). Having the tube a few mm aft may be necessary.
Pete
#59
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
a few more photo's of the real thing. Both the #121 and #44 planes had 2 wires on top and 3 wires on the wing bottom. the wires on the #121 were offset a little while the #44 wing had them lined up even.
Some have used electrical "Snake Wire" for functional flying wires.
Pete
Some have used electrical "Snake Wire" for functional flying wires.
Pete
#61
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: Babblefish7
Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?
Mark
Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?
Mark
they were taken by a friend at: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/wedellex.htm [8D]
They have both the #121 and #44 planes on display. Looks like it's about an hour or so west of New Orleans. Would love to go in person someday. I'm very happy to have them as good photo documentation from text is almost worthless.
Pete
#62
RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: Rocketman612
Mark,
they were taken by a friend at: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/wedellex.htm [8D]
They have both the #121 and #44 planes on display. Looks like it's about an hour or so west of New Orleans. Would love to go in person someday. I'm very happy to have them as good photo documentation from text is almost worthless.
Pete
ORIGINAL: Babblefish7
Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?
Mark
Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?
Mark
they were taken by a friend at: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/wedellex.htm [8D]
They have both the #121 and #44 planes on display. Looks like it's about an hour or so west of New Orleans. Would love to go in person someday. I'm very happy to have them as good photo documentation from text is almost worthless.
Pete
Although they are nice reproductions, they are not accurate in all outlines and airfoils. They both have thicker section airfoils and larger fin/rudder area. Both may have the fuselage length strecthed as well as longer wings. This was done in an attempt to make them more stable, which I personally do not understand why it was done. Hard to imagine a racer being modded into an old man's cruiser!
The only surviving original Wedell-Williams is at the Western Reserve Collection in Cleveland. It is the Roscoe Turner airplane with the Hornet installed as last raced in '39 by Joe Mackey. It is the actual Race #121 airplane.
Chris...
#63
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: stuntflyr
Although they are nice reproductions, they are not accurate in all outlines and airfoils. They both have thicker section airfoils and larger fin/rudder area. Both may have the fuselage length strecthed as well as longer wings. This was done in an attempt to make them more stable, which I personally do not understand why it was done. Hard to imagine a racer being modded into an old man's cruiser!
The only surviving original Wedell-Williams is at the Western Reserve Collection in Cleveland. It is the Roscoe Turner airplane with the Hornet installed as last raced in '39 by Joe Mackey. It is the actual Race #121 airplane.
Chris...
ORIGINAL: Rocketman612
Mark,
they were taken by a friend at: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/wedellex.htm [8D]
They have both the #121 and #44 planes on display. Looks like it's about an hour or so west of New Orleans. Would love to go in person someday. I'm very happy to have them as good photo documentation from text is almost worthless.
Pete
ORIGINAL: Babblefish7
Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?
Mark
Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?
Mark
they were taken by a friend at: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/wedellex.htm [8D]
They have both the #121 and #44 planes on display. Looks like it's about an hour or so west of New Orleans. Would love to go in person someday. I'm very happy to have them as good photo documentation from text is almost worthless.
Pete
Although they are nice reproductions, they are not accurate in all outlines and airfoils. They both have thicker section airfoils and larger fin/rudder area. Both may have the fuselage length strecthed as well as longer wings. This was done in an attempt to make them more stable, which I personally do not understand why it was done. Hard to imagine a racer being modded into an old man's cruiser!
The only surviving original Wedell-Williams is at the Western Reserve Collection in Cleveland. It is the Roscoe Turner airplane with the Hornet installed as last raced in '39 by Joe Mackey. It is the actual Race #121 airplane.
Chris...
Pete
#64
RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Oh, good. You knew that already!
For docs you can work in the replica photos and use model matching drawings and be OK, I'm sure.
Again, good looking model. I am secretly jealous and want to build a Golden Age racer as well...
Chris...
For docs you can work in the replica photos and use model matching drawings and be OK, I'm sure.
Again, good looking model. I am secretly jealous and want to build a Golden Age racer as well...
Chris...
#65
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
After measuring and measuring I mapped out the holes for the tubes and with the Dremel ground them out. A small round file used for final fitting. I have then snug with no deformity of the fiberglass. Aeropoxy used to glue them in place, then after drying the fuse was masked and the tubes were rough sanded. The ply plate was epoxied in place at this time. Turned out nice [8D]
Pete
Pete
#66
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Next is to plan for the stab flying wires. These are functional. The 44 racer has a different layout for the stab wires in that the two wires come off a single anchoring point on the vertical stab. I'll take an appropriate thickness of 7/8 dowel and aeropoxy it inside the fin. Drill a hole for a bolt and then bolt both the Lt and Rt anchoring plates. For the bottom anchoring point I'll try to do something similar. Any other ideas welcome.
Pete
Pete
#67
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
What a great job, I didn't know Byron was making kits again. I'm working on the Hostetler's Gilmore Red Lion now. I'm planning on having the Lion, the 44 and the 43, all electric and 1/4 scale.
Wonderful job, I love the 30's.
Marty
Wonderful job, I love the 30's.
Marty
#68
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Marty,
Welcome aboard and thanks for the kind words.
Will try to catch up on posting. BIG lag in hunting and waiting for parts to make the Horizontal stab flying wires.
The servo tray is served up in two pieces that are epoxied to the formers. The forward tip is then fiberglassed to the fuse top and bottom. Next you add 1/8x 1/4x 6in spruce strips to double where you are mounting the servos. Barely got all the clamps set. The rear engine former is set and as per prior post the styrene tube placed it just a hair off. It is not an issue the mounting tube fits fine. The rear former was tack glued then set with Aeropoxy. I was able to get into the void where the fuse skin and the former didn't meet flush so it solid. View from the rear looks great.
Pete
Welcome aboard and thanks for the kind words.
Will try to catch up on posting. BIG lag in hunting and waiting for parts to make the Horizontal stab flying wires.
The servo tray is served up in two pieces that are epoxied to the formers. The forward tip is then fiberglassed to the fuse top and bottom. Next you add 1/8x 1/4x 6in spruce strips to double where you are mounting the servos. Barely got all the clamps set. The rear engine former is set and as per prior post the styrene tube placed it just a hair off. It is not an issue the mounting tube fits fine. The rear former was tack glued then set with Aeropoxy. I was able to get into the void where the fuse skin and the former didn't meet flush so it solid. View from the rear looks great.
Pete
#69
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Took a step back and worked on the pass through for the wing flying wires. Started by cutting the 4 styrene tubes then with scrap balsa left over from sheeting fashioned top and bottom plates to stabilize the tubes but also to anchor the covering around the tube later. Small pieces of balsa were used against the ribs to attach to. Everything got sanded to shape and I'm pleased with the results. This setup should look near scale to the original plane and be a fast setup at the field.
Pete
Pete
#73
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Back to the Horizontal stab flying wires. A appropriate thickness of 7/8 dowel was cut and drilled. I estimated the scale location and the dowel will be epoxied here. The wire attaching brackets for the vertical stab are made from 0.032x 3/4 in brass. To get the proper thickness so the fittings were snug I needed to double it by folding it over in a vise and tapping it flat. The bend is at the top end, next was to drill the stab mounting hole then cut it free from the strip. measured and drilled the holes for the wire anchors. These are screwed in place and accommodate the threaded 4-40 rods. Filed to shape and then polished with 600 sandpaper gives a good finish. The horizontal stab wire locations were measured and drilled for # 2 bolts that will anchor both top and bottom wires.
Pete
Pete
#74
RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
Pete
IME the brass will brake due to metal fatigue over time, especially with the vibration of the G62, had it brake numerous times on my helis and finely went with stainless, allot harder to work with but it holds up.
IME the brass will brake due to metal fatigue over time, especially with the vibration of the G62, had it brake numerous times on my helis and finely went with stainless, allot harder to work with but it holds up.
#75
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
ORIGINAL: KC36330
Pete
IME the brass will brake due to metal fatigue over time, especially with the vibration of the G62, had it brake numerous times on my helis and finely went with stainless, allot harder to work with but it holds up.
Pete
IME the brass will brake due to metal fatigue over time, especially with the vibration of the G62, had it brake numerous times on my helis and finely went with stainless, allot harder to work with but it holds up.
Pete