wifpwcf

rossco thats wicked mate awsome work keep it up/
cheers glen

bignuts181

not that long to go now.....

wifpwcf

thats cool waiting for your response on how it
flys,,i love flying the one i have with a 62 the 100 will be WOWER
cg

bignuts181

3-4 weeks we should be gold.

bignuts181

Hey guys well I did some more work on the cessna tonight making up one of the aileron pushrods as per the elevator setup and managed to glue in both of the locator dowls which consist of alloy tubes cut to about 4" long (100mm) after touching them on the sander and giving them a lead in champfer around the ends to make fitment easier, they were glued in with some 15minute epoxy, and much to my amazement and releif every thing lines up spot on.....this is turning into a bloody good model!! as everything actually fits unlike the other one pictured in my workshop! I also managed to mount both the throttle and choke servos under the engine box and will use 4-40 threaded rod with square carbon rod over the outside to prevent excessive flexing/vibration (square tube has nice big triangles in each corner with a round hole in the middle and doesn't split like round tube!)

Now just for curiosity and a bit of a laugh I thought I'd see how my "other" tug motor would fit in the cowl, a 3W 157 red head producing 19 horsepower......not bad hey..., what do you think Glen can we 3D a Cessna 182????

Me thinks perhaps not, I have also shown the maximun deflections on the aileron with just a hint of differential, ie more up than down for better smoother turns.

more to follow tomorrow.

mmmdowning

WOW!!!!!!
Very nice.

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

Hope you don't mind, just jumping on board the thread re my build of the Austar C-182. Not quite as far along on my build due to some replacement parts held up in Bejing. (raised ribbed sections on the ailerons, flaps and elevator did not release properly from the mould leaving numerous broken sections and pin holes). Also had two right landing gears sent. Replacement parts due in next week.

Will be outfitting mine on wheels and floats, have upgraded the firewall at the bottom where the strut float brackets will attach and also reinforce all fuse joints with 1" glass cloth and epoxy. I played around with a few ideas re engine selection and finally went with a 3W 55i US Competition Series. I was going to install a G-62 but wanted a little more "steam" out of the engine for the float application.
(G-62 is about 4.5 hp with stock exhaust and the 3W 55 is about 6.8 hp) See how it performs.

BN 181, what is your deflection in mm for the ailerons and elevator.

Attached are some pics of the mods and full size pic of the 182 with floats. All being well mine should look pretty darn close other than paint scheme and colour. Mine is red/silver on white.

Really like the model so far, just hope the darn replacement parts arrive soon.

Regards
Randy

bignuts181

Hi there Randy welcome aboard, tell who's floats will you be using for your model?? Looking good so far...

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

A few more pics of the mods for the float application. I have set up for the front float brackets to exit at the side of the fuse or from the main front landing gear mount as would be used on the full size C-206. (I am favouring the sides of the fuse as in the above pic).
I will use another modified bracket and attach to the rear main mount for the rear float struts. (Pics to follow when I get to this point).

FLOATS

I have done alot of float flying of full size aircraft and models here in Canada.

I have been dealing with a fellow out in western Canada who supplies my floats. www.seacommander.com His name is Ryan Holm and has made a number of floats for me to date. He offers both fiberglass and foam core floats for a variety of sized models.
Craftsmanship and quailty is great. The floats that I will be putting on the Austar C-182 will be similar to Wipaire 3000, and will
be fiberglass, 66 3/4" long. I am also having futher discissions with him to offer a foam core floats and a fiberglass float with mounting brackets for (manual) removable wheels.


For now, just want to get the model into the air on wheels and see the flying characteristics etc.

Will stay in touch.

Regards
Randy

bignuts181

It'll be interesting to see your floats there Randy.

bignuts181

Hi guys, me again. Sorry I havn't posted for a couple of weeks, the family thing has taken priority but now it's back to the serious stuff.... So over the last couple of days I have been trial and retrial fitting the Emcotech electronic kill switch with 4cell 2700 NMH ignition battery and the Emcotech regulated and failsafe flight switch. And here I came up with a novel idea...seeing as the model would be fuelled through the left cowl flap, I thought why not turn the model on there as well, after all this is the business end of the plane and there is excellent airflow over not only the motor but also the ignition module. This brings me to a very important point, model aircraft ignitions do tend to get hot and heat kills ignitions as well as vibration. To overcome both of these issues the ignition is mounted ontop of the engine box away from the heat and secondly is softmounted with an undersized selftapping capscrew and silicon fuel line top and bottom of the bolt there buy "soft mounting it". The same method was also used for the power switch as this has a regulator with a heat sink on the back so you also have to allow for airflow.
So with the front end almost stitched up I turned my attention to how do I get power to the wings in a neat and fasionable way? The answer came from the automotive industry in the form of automotive soft braid that not only looks pretty trick, but also protects the cables inside from damage. The female ends of the plugs are mounted through the rear bulkhead with a bead of 732 silicon adhesive, just enough to hold them in place and the braid in turn hidden behind the verticle former to the rear of the access hatch and for the most part be out of sight.
You will see from the underside photo that I have diverted the fuel line away from the front right muffler as I felt the risk of fire was too high had this not have been done. In order to keep the mufflers in the cowl without hacking big holes in the engine box I found I could overcome this buy simply mounting the right muffler backwards and with a bit of luck and a tight elbow be able to exit the exhaust from inside the cowl......but it's going to be tight!

more work tomorrow.

bignuts181

more pics.....

steve2972

My Feedback: (2)

Looking good,joining this thread now![sm=thumbup.gif]

Steve

steve2972

My Feedback: (2)

Are the window tinted or clear?

Steve

bignuts181

Hi there Steve the windows come tinted, just about rite I would say.....more work to follow, after things settle, I delivered my baby boy this morning at 2.20am at home. 6lb 3oz both mum and babe are doing well we've called him Tristan Zander Bathie-Moore. So now it's off to the vet for the snip 4 kids are enough!

RC_Kiwi

Wow this is going to be an awesome plane!!!!

BTW Congratulations!!!!

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

Was wondering if anyone else has experienced the following problem with the model finish of their 182TC.

See the attached pic. The raised scale ribbed sections on my ailerons , flaps and elevators, both top and bottom have numerous pinholes/ airholes in the finish (every ribbed section). Didn't release properly from the mould, factory then painted over the areas without filling them.

I have been in touch with Austar who also shares my concern and have been working on this issue since "June" when I received the model. The factory indicates it's "inevitible" that this will occurr. I'm sure the prototype didn't have these imperfections.

I started to sand, fill and repaint each rib (over 200 of them). Austar indicated that it was a quality control issue and would be corrected by the factory. (Still waiting for my replacement parts). I guess it's time to start sanding again, (tape the area sand, fill and repaint) !!!!

I really like everything else about the model, the size the finish and quaility is great, in fact I will be putting it on floats over the winter. I think they have a great product that will do well over here in the US and Canada if this area can be corrected.

Regards
Randy

bignuts181

Hey guys well here we are again back to the good stuff for the soul. Tonight I managed to finish off the cable instillation and final mount the cowl to the front of the model and thankfully the motor lines up with the cowl...(I've been dreading this bit for a while now) so while it was in place I added the right hand cowl and you won't beleive it but there is no plug hanging out. So off to the other side....Bugger!!... I have about 5mm hanging out with about a 10 mm diameter oval cutout, later I will paint the plug cap and it will virtually vanish so not a big deal really and you barely notice it. Now you may notice from the firewall pics that I have wires entering the fuse through a round hole....as you would but because there is a high risk vibration cutting through the wires I have fitted rubber gromets from my local "Tandy" electrical store. I have also fitted a "TY1" T-peice in the fuel line with one of there fuel dots for refilling.

Next off I turned my attention to hooking up the closed loop to the rudder and ran accross a small but anoying problem. Due to the excessive sweep angle of the rudder excessive tension must be applied to the rudder and in turn translates to a huge load on the lowwer rudder pin and a difficult and lack of throw being available. So to my way of thinking there are two obvious alternatives. you could put a pully in the back of the fuse to make the rudder cables run at right angles to the hinge line and a supporting mount for the rudder torque rod to remove the load from the hinge or there is a better way still.......why not just mount the rudder servo in the tail (covered buy the tail cone) and use two short ridgid pushrods for direct trouble free operation. I havn't done this bit yet....thats for tomorrow night.

cheers Rossco.

bignuts181

some more pics of the final instillation up front you can also see a blumbers elbows to turn the exhaust to the rear, some additional copper pipe will exit the exhaust cleanly out the bottom.

bignuts181

Hey all well last night I managed to start on the hinges for the canopy. From your local Bunnings (DIY Store) I managed to find some brass coated metal piano hinges at 115mm long. These had the hinge pin removed and to 90 degree locking tabs cut off either end of the hinge and were glued in place with hysole glue. While the hysole was out all of the cowling screws were removed and soaked in WD 40 (spray on oil) and screwed back in place this acts as a release agent for the next bit. So as I said while the hysole was out I puddled hysole over and around the screws on the inside to give a better purchase for the screws to hold the cowl on with.

While the glue was drying next up was fixing the dodgy rudder linkage and remounting the rudder servo behind the rudder on a light ply plate with the kit clevises and some Dubro 4-40 ball links with 4-40 all thread connecting the two. So now we have a bullet profe linkage that although a little weight may be added in the nose I would wrather this than have an ineffective rudder flapping around in the breeze.

So tonight I'll add the reinforcing gusets to the rudder mount and glue the hole lot together with some hysole.

SDCrashmaster

Love the rock solid rudder linkage. Will it require additional weight up front to balance? Or, aren't we there yet?
Nice work.
Paul

bignuts181

Hi there SDCrashmaster, yah your probably rite in the added nose weight but then this is a BIG model and will easily carry the extra weight. I may even be able to offset it with two BIG ASS NMH RX batteries on the firewall.

wifpwcf

nice work rossco i like your ideas ,,you will see a few in our next 182tc 3mrt series 2 ,they will be ready in 3 months
with a few other bigger planes [X(][8D]
keep up the good work ,
cg

bignuts181

Thans guys, I did some more work on the cessna again last night this time glueing in the remanider of the piano hinge to both the cowl and cowl flap. I have found that as Hysol is a 24+ hour full cure epoxy that it allows you to trim the excess off the next day with a sharp hobby knife, the hysole will harden rite up over the next few days. I have even found that the rudder servo tray has hardened up even more in the last 24 hours since it was originally glued in 48 hours ago, this is probably due to the extreme cold as much as anything and yes the heaters are running 24/7 to try and maintan 18 degrees C to help the cure process.

So next up I'll add a one peice hinge from piano wire that can only be removed when the cowl is removed from the model. I'm almost ready to make up and fit the exhaust tubes and cowling flaps but I think the cowling flaps will be next.

SDCrashmaster

Looks like any CG imbalance that the rudder servo and try might cause are be countered by all the piano hinges in the cowl.
I'm liking this project alot. Keep going.