VK Model's Nieuport 17, kit from 1972!
#76
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Hi Leo,
I will check tonight or tomorrow. I remember that both wings ended up with HUGE positive incidence and i did my best to make them as close as per the plans as possible. I suggest you use the plans, but for information/reference, I will find out on mine. I will measure them and let you know.
I will check tonight or tomorrow. I remember that both wings ended up with HUGE positive incidence and i did my best to make them as close as per the plans as possible. I suggest you use the plans, but for information/reference, I will find out on mine. I will measure them and let you know.
#77
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Hi Leo
as promised. i measured: while the horizontal stab is at zero, the motor was at -2 degrees, and 3 degrees to the right.
top wing was at 0 degrees and bottom wings were at -1 degree at the tips
it flew real nice like that
as promised. i measured: while the horizontal stab is at zero, the motor was at -2 degrees, and 3 degrees to the right.
top wing was at 0 degrees and bottom wings were at -1 degree at the tips
it flew real nice like that
#81
Hello Rowarrior!!
Unfortunately I had some setbacks and did not have the time to finish and fly the Nieuport. Sometimes a free weekend is very difficult to find when you are married. In July my wife will travel to her parents cit, so I believe I will have the time and the peace of mind that I need to perform the maiden.
Meanwhile here are the last pics of the plane..
Regards,
Leo
Unfortunately I had some setbacks and did not have the time to finish and fly the Nieuport. Sometimes a free weekend is very difficult to find when you are married. In July my wife will travel to her parents cit, so I believe I will have the time and the peace of mind that I need to perform the maiden.
Meanwhile here are the last pics of the plane..
Regards,
Leo
#82
VK competed with Berkely (known as being "die crunched") for the worst kits of that era! Not scale data, but materials quality.
Since you are apparently knowledgeable of scale airplanes, don't you miss the realistic sound of an engine as compared to the swishing sound of an electric motor when they are in the air?
Since you are apparently knowledgeable of scale airplanes, don't you miss the realistic sound of an engine as compared to the swishing sound of an electric motor when they are in the air?
#83
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Sounds good Leo! I look forward to your message regarding maiden flight. i noticed you dont have the rigging(wing wires) done... however, i am under the impression the manuals says the rigging is actually functional .. you dont want it to break up in the air!
#85
That's good, it makes such a difference to the appearance. My plans say to connect the rigging with small rubber bands, so they can't be there for function; the wing spars are basswood or spruce and very strong by themselves. However I made functional rigging on mine (no rubber bands) and I feel it helped in a cartwheel.
#87
Well, I'm assuming it would not be functional, because I don't think rubber bands will be nearly strong enough to resist forces that would tend to bend the wings. I used Berkeley Fire Wire 50 lb test fishing line connected with clevises, but in a cartwheel a couple of those broke under the strain. I assume they protected the structure from the initial shock before they broke, but I don't know what would have happened without them, or with rubber bands.
I would say that the designer had things very thoroughly worked out, and if he shows rubber bands then they must be OK. They may not do much structurally, but they would be relatively easy to set up, and if Vern Krehbiel said the plane was strong enough that way then I'm sure it is.
Jim
I would say that the designer had things very thoroughly worked out, and if he shows rubber bands then they must be OK. They may not do much structurally, but they would be relatively easy to set up, and if Vern Krehbiel said the plane was strong enough that way then I'm sure it is.
Jim
#88
My dad had one that was a regular flyer and experienced a number of so-so landings. The airplane had the rubber bands to provide plenty of tension to brace the airplane so a cartwheel would be absorbed by the bands. Make sure you inspect and change them routinely.
#89
Rubber bands only make sure the bottom wings dowel stay in fuselage. The only problem is in time you have to replace them. I keep My VK DR1 assembled all the time so I have to make sure they are not rotted a couple of times a year. The plus is if you tumble it, the wings pop out hopefully saving them from major damage. A minor problem with the RBs is getting your fingers in there.
#90
My Feedback: (6)
Rubber bands only make sure the bottom wings dowel stay in fuselage. The only problem is in time you have to replace them. I keep My VK DR1 assembled all the time so I have to make sure they are not rotted a couple of times a year. The plus is if you tumble it, the wings pop out hopefully saving them from major damage. A minor problem with the RBs is getting your fingers in there.
#91
Elastic cord rots at some point too. I loop rubbrebands so they are not loose. i think 3 loops for a #64. Its just getting in there. It saved my plane at a contest. I stalled it on takeoff and it all came apart like it was suppose too. Spent the rest of the day fixing stuff, but flew it the next day. If you want to get rid of them, I would use a allen screw and have something to thread into the wing . Dr1 is the best flying WW1 plane I have flown. My TF SE5a is not bad; I have re-engined it so it should be better and the worst was a scratched Fokker EV. Have the VK Camel kit but building a Reeves Camel right now. I lucked into a Saito 90 twin that will probably end up in the small camel mainly for weight; my Dr1 is powered by a Magnum 52 FS and it does just fine.
#92
It's been a lot of years since my VK triplane but I recall that the rubber band worked just fine. In fact it probably saved the lower wing on a number of occasions due to my wonky landings. The CG of the aircraft is high up and that gives a lot of leverage for dragging a wing tip when it ground loops. The lower wing struts got repaired several times but since they are a simple piece of strip balsa sanded to shape it was pretty easy to look at them as a sacrificial piece. The best insurance is to use a fresh rubber band every trip to the field.
#93
What is funny is the real Dr1 has all the wings as one piece. If I build another I would do that. Still there is no problem as made. Mine is about get out of the hanger with a new dummy engine and some little details to make it a better contest plane till the Camel is ready. It sure is easy to transport.
#94
My Feedback: (6)
I will probably start with the rubberbands to see how they work. My DR-1 will be powered by a Thunder Tiger .46 Pro with a J'Tec inverted single tube muffler. I am altering it to use pull-pull on elevator and rudder. The top wing was already built when I received the project so the ailerons are as designed.
#95
I have Pull Pull on rudder and elevator, double lines on elevator and I put some Hitec 82MGs on each aileron. I was going to do the Pull Pull on the ailerons but just went ahead with pushrods. My carburetor is actually inside the fuselage trying to get the engine back for looks. Throttle servo on the firewall with battery.
#97
No not without going to take one. I actually have the elevator servo on its side; pull pull is just like the rudder. it is actually at the place where I could have mounted a stick and had a pilots hand move with it but never completed that. I also have the rudder servo froward so I could have had feet move on a rudder bar.