Koverall creases?
 

I'm getting read to cover my CI's wings and one large sheet of Koverall for the job. Straight out of the package it was folding creases in it. Is it necessary to somehow removed the creases or with they just naturally come out once heat is applied?

I'd definitely prefer if Koverall were sold on a roll like Solartex.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

If you tighten it enough before you apply the Nitrate you wont have any problems with the creases. If you are applying on a Solid surface and NOT using a tightening dope you may have to apply some heat to the creased area after tightening but before adding the finishing resin or urethane (which ever you will be using instead of Nitrate)

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Just pull it snug when you apply it. The heat will take the crease out.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Thanks! BTW, is there a preferred direction with this stuff? I have one of the 67 x 129" sheets.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

The grain runs the length of the sheet , You would use the longest side to go from wing tip to wing tip for the correct grain direction.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Thanks x 2! Aligned in that direction it looks like I still have plenty for the job. But now I have to ask (even though it may make me look like an idiot): Is there a "top" vs. "bottom" to Koverall? Obviously, there's not "adhesive side" but is there an up and down (and if so, how would one tell the difference)?

RE: Koverall creases?
 

If there is a top or bottom , I have never noticed .

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Don,
please have a look at the german / french "retroplane.net" forum.
In this forum there are many Koverall experts also Walter and Stephan.
This guys builds only retro sailplanes of 1920 to 1945 with many tricks.

Thread Walter: http://www.retroplane.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=46740
Push at the link on Walter's Thread, <span class="hps">than you come</span> <span class="hps">to</span> S<span class="hps">tephan's</span> <span class="hps">thread.

I hope I could help you.

Matz</span>

RE: Koverall creases?
 

If there is a side that is slightly glossy I put that side up; only because I read it somewhere but dont remember how long ago. Koverall is just like doing the big thing.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

One sides does seem just slightly glossier than the other. (Or maybe it's just my imagination.)

Anyway, thanks for all the guidance, guys. I'm new to Koverall, but the test have been great and it seems to be the perfect solution for covering a wing with a wire TE.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Scalloped edges can be very tricky and it looks like you have done very well with them . Nice work Abu. One word of caution on the Koverall it shrinks alot more than most fabric coverings so be carefull with the heat or you will distort or destroy fragile areas .

RE: Koverall creases?
 

"Scalloped edges can be very tricky and it looks like you have done very well with them"

I'll Second that, looks great. Just use caution that the fabric does not lie down and stick to itself, where it is wrapped around the wire. I have taken a candle, and rubbed candle wax where the fabric is wrapped around the wire, to keep the surfaces clear of each other.

Les

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Applying the Koverall is a new and as yet uncomfortable process. I'm using SIG Stix-it as the adhesive. I start by applying two coats of the Stix-it to the outside edges of the frame and to to undercambered bottom of the ribs. After this dries, I position the Koverall and run an iron along the underside of the LE. When this "sets" I trim the fabric at the LE so there's about a 1/8 inch extra. Then I apply a further coat of Stix-it and with my figure press the extra bit of fabric down.

Next comes the tricky bit of wrapping the fabric around the TE wires and pulling it semi-taut back against the top side of the LE. I can't say I have a "system" for this yet. Once the one-piece covering is attached, I lightly iron the bottom to take out most of the looseness, than do the same for the top. At this point, I start working my way back from the LE to the TE watching to see how the fabric pulls against the wire. By the time I've done this top and bottom, the wing panel looks generally good. Next comes the wing tip.

What I don't yet quite get (as a long time solartex user) is how to finish all the edges, for example at the wing root. With solartex (which is a lot like working with tissue) I just made some cut and folded the flaps over and stuck them down with an iron. The Koverall seems more difficult in this regard.

****

Les, no worries about the fabric sticking to itself since there's no adhesive backing on Koverall.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

For the wing root, try pulling it spanwise when ironing down to get it snug, then run CA along the joint. It is pretty easy to cut the covering with a sharp blade after the CA hardens.

Martin

RE: Koverall creases?
 

"Les, no worries about the fabric sticking to itself since there's no adhesive backing on Koverall. "

I just remember the "old" days of silk and dope, and having the fabric sag when applying the dope, and sticking to itself.

Les

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Martin, the CA trick sounds like it'll work fine. Les, you're right the silk and dope method would have the sticking problem. Overall, I've very happy so far with Koverall. It's nice to have another option in addition to Solartex.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Two problems I've yet to overcome. First, the cut edges of the Koverall have quite a few loose threads. I suppose I can remedy that with my Minwax Polycrylic fill. But at the moment it looks a bit ragged. Second, the black of the LE carbon fiber tube is plainly visible through the fabric. I had thought about painting that before covering but just plain forgot. Not sure what I'm going to do about that. Bear in mind that I won't be painting the wing.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

The 'fuzzies' require encapsulation by the finish you are brushing onto fabric. Sharp blades are the only way to keep them at bay. A deft touch with an iron can shrink them. Were finishing tapes of any sort used? I can't remember. The CF is going to show forever unless opaque paint put on fabric or fabric removed and CF painted to look like wood.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Actually, what I had been thinking about doing BEFORE covering is ironing on a strip of opaque white Solartex. Now I'm considering doing in over the Koverall (but before I add the "CDL" colored silk).

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Well, the covering looks good. The LE, however, looks AWFUL! Not sure what I'm going to do about that. I tried ironing on a strip of solartex. And that looked good but didn't stick well to the Koverall. Maybe I need to give the leading edge a coat of Stix-it.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Sorry to hear that Don, it is a bit of a predicament. [:@]

Here is my suggestion - untried of course, just trying to think one up to help.
What about rib tapes. These covering jobs required rib, leading and trailing edge tapes to secure the fabric to the wing - you already know this, so... Very carefully mask the front ot the wing so only the leading edge shows. Next apply a coat of white dope to hide the black CF rod. Idea being to create a faux, opaque whitish leading edge, basically as what it would look like with rib tapes applied. Then apply Stix-it and add the real fabric rib tapes, or silk job first and then rib tapes.
I'm assuming of course that the opaque white dope will give you the opaque-ish effect you want so to hide the black CF leading edge.

I have the same situation with my Morane Saulnier with its CF rods and like the idea of painting them brown first to simulate wood. Just have to remember to do so. I just hate it when I make a dumb mistake for whatever reason - for me it is usually because I am rushing.

Good luck with it!
Bri

RE: Koverall creases?
 

In terms of hiding the CF rod, I think just the one more later of natural (white) solartex will do, if I can get it to stick down properly. I'm sure I'll find a solution, but it's always a challenge working with new materials. I needed the Koverall to solve the problem with the wire TE, so now I have to deal with the challenges of working with Koverall vs. Solartex. I do really like the look of the Koverall. But it's also quite easy to get small "runs" in the material.

Note that the tail feathers also have the CF and I've wondered about how those looked on the original. The fact is that those would have been steel tubing probably primed with grey or green. And that color would also have shown through.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

Using the Stix-it to make the Solartex LE tape adhere properly work and solved the problem of the "raggedy *****" LE. But the CF still shows through. So that's half of the problem. I'll sleep on the other half.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

You can probably hide any fuzzies with silkspan and butyrate dope. Don't trim the silkspan with a knife. Use sandpaper instead. The edges of the silkspan will disappear into the Koverall. The problem with the coverings we use is they are much too thick at these scales. Compromises must be made.

RE: Koverall creases?
 

I've added the edge tapes to the LE and the wing tip and that eliminated the fuzzies and some of the unsightliness. The CF tube is still visible but not as much. All in all, it doesn't look bad...though I still need to experiment with methods and materials for applying the "bamboo" (aka "CDL") colored silk. I'll do this on my test wing.