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Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

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Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

Old 11-06-2010, 11:56 AM
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Saxondog
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Default Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

It has been a long wait but yesterday the local hobby shopreceivedtwo of these most excellent kits, I posted a deposit for one of these kits as they are a limited production and cost 240.00 with taxes. The hull is amazing in detail and very solid molding, decks are very detailed with period correct hatches and ventilators which were upgraded by 1941 the period this kit represents. Hull is molded in two colors with the lower section in Dull Red and the upper in a darker grey.

Metal barrels for the main guns, many Photo etched parts including railings for all decks and super structure. It has a hull size of 36 1/2 inches and over 8 inches wide. I will be posting some detailedpicturesand here is the link to the shop here in Memphis,Tennessee. http://local.yahoo.com/info-15076573...obbies-memphis

Regards, Saxondog
Old 11-09-2010, 12:52 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

Afew more hull pictures.
Old 11-11-2010, 10:17 AM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

Hi,

Just got mine yesterday. I was hoping the deck would be removable to facilitate adding r/c gear. However, it is not. In addition, there is not much freeboard on this kit. Don't get me wrong, it is a beautiful kit but it will present some challenges to make it sail at the local pond.

Pete
Old 11-11-2010, 01:13 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

Low freeboard should be expected with the 1914 vintage Pennsylvania class dreadnaughts. Being nothing more than repeats of the Nevada class, albeit with two more 14" guns, they were low and very wet by comparison to the later New Mexico, Tennessee and Colorado classes that followed. Having a vertical bow was part of the problem, as was the extra weight added during modernization in the 1930s. The later three classes all had a clipper style bow and a higher main deck forward than the earlier classes, though they were not significantly faster. Doing research on this, I found it almost ironic that the only battleship to get underway at Pearl Harbor, the Nevada, was the only operational ship of either the Nevada or Pennsylvania class at the end of the war. The Oklahoma was gutted by torpedoes and the Arizona destroyed by bombs at Pearl Harbor, the Pennsylvania was virtually destroyed aft of the #4 turret by a Japanese torpedo attack in 1945, limping back to Pearl Harbor after being temporarily repaired.
Old 11-21-2010, 12:16 AM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

My intention is to build R/C, that being said their are some uniquechallenging situationswith this kit.I am considering the access issue,my idea at this point is to have a central bulk head for the aft section,installing the motors,shafts,stuffing boxes in a sealed compartment. Their does not seem to be a reasonable way to make the aft deckremovable. But access to the drive compartment could be achieved through the aft turret by mounting this gun using magnet to secure it in place.

For the battery compartment I intend on mounting these in the center section perminatly and with recharging port with selector switch to alternate charging. I have 4 1700MHA 7.2 VOLT Batteries from other R/C vehicles which have been upgraded. Iconsidereda twin prop drive, but the four propeller drive isaccurateso this is my choice.T he batteries should last without need to access them.

The controls and other accessories like the smoker,thereceiverand power pack I am undecided on, I will not start this project until after Christmas as it is my Christmas gift from the wife and kids, they just don't know it yet but the local shop has a long and good reputation in this ayea and my family know to check their at Christmas for my gift.

The biggestchallengedto Radio Control will be the detail of this kit,and the extra P.E.Kit complicates this further,but if thought out these issues can be overcome.

SUBSINKER Keep us up to date on your progress, Saxondog
Old 12-05-2010, 01:11 AM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

I received mine a few days ago and being new to RC boats I am thinking about ways to make it RC and easy to maintain.
I have and idea of using Elmer's Rubber cement to join the upper to the lower parts and using the enclosed screws provided under the forward and after deck parts without cementing them in place. My hope is the rubber cement will provide the water tightness needed.
Has anyone ever heard of this method? Do you think it would work? Or am I way out in left field, begging for disaster?
Old 12-23-2010, 04:03 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona


ORIGINAL: BBC_KT
Or am I way out in left field, begging for disaster?
Ever watch Titanic or The Poseidon Adventure??

Best to read over the following RC conversions to see how it should be done:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1353744

http://www.pienoismallit.net/keskust...00-uss-arizona (Finnish site)
Old 01-26-2011, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

This build by Campang is interesting,someinnovation clearly used to build the central RC compartment and the method of securing this central section is very smart.I don'tbelievethe twin propeller modification is the only or even the best option. To say this is how it "should be done" relating his built as the "only way" is a bit bold. But the issue of a watertighthull and the Arizona being a wet ship forward does create problems concerning the 5" and even the main turrets. The trumpeter Kit seems to have beenmoulded with stand off mountings for servo's to animate the guns.

But the water tight issue is still the problem unless a seal of some type is manufactured to prevent the waterenteringthe hull yet still allow the guns to rotate. What is more difficult to engineer,blocking off these mountings so they are fixed and can't leak water or designing a system to allow rotation and remain water tight?

I am not an expert,I only have 5 RC ships and the only BATTLESHIP being the 1/200 Yamato which hasanimatedmain guns designed by themanufacturerNichimo. The only area on that kit that stays wet is the rear service boat storage under the deck mountedcatapult.

My other ship the Lindberg blue devil destroyer has rotating guns,I have sealed these with o-rings and rubber cement and this kit is constantly wet at high speeds.But in both these ships the centralreceiver,speed controls,batteries,are contained in a central water tight compartment,with the ships both having water tight bulkheads dividing the hull into 6 sections on Yamato and 5 on the destroyer with the central electronics section being completelyenclosedwater tight compartment

. The engine area's on both ships do get wet and have survived by light oil lubrication of the motor and the hassle of drying these compartment and the motor after running is complete.

So my point is this if the central electronics are water tight, with the wiring conduit attached to the very top edge of the inner hull allowing the wiring to remain dryencasedin shrink tight then the ship getting water seeping under the gun mounts should not effect the electronics. I intend to build the Arizona the same way,with 4-scale props.I'm not saying this is better or worse just different.
regards,Saxondog.

One other issue is rotating radar and navigation lights anyone considered these features?And a smoker which I will install built for my ship by DANL,THE ONLY WATER SEEPAGE ISSUE THIS LEAVES IS THROUGH THE SMOKE STACK and if that happens the ship has sunk.








Old 01-27-2011, 01:36 AM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

I checked out lots of pictures of the Arizona and found no Radar equipment. The closest I found to Radar was the stereoscopic range finder between the armored conning station and the foremast
Old 01-27-2011, 04:36 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

You are correct, my mistake The range clocks,and MK Directors should rotate with the main guns,and if the secondary guns are made to rotate then their MK14 Directors should turn 90 deg, Also I forgot to mention the search lights .

But I don't agree that the Arizona is a repeat of the previous class,their are somesimilarities,the main difference is the power plants.The Oklahoma was twin screwedtripleexpansion power plant and Nevada was twin screwed Curtis turbines.

Thearmourwas different ,they were the all or nothing formula started with Nevada and Oklahoma but Arizonaarmourbelt was backed by cement,the others were backed by teak.

Arizona andPennsylvania were both Turbine power plants with four screws.Although Arizona used ParsonsTurbines and Pennsylvania used Curtis Turbines. So these two ships were a progression toward the Turbo-Electric power plants that would be installed in California and Tennessee.

As a note,one reason the Oklahoma was written off after so much effort to right and raise her were the Triple Expansion engines which at best by this time were doing well to make 18knots.

And Nevada was able to get under way because of her geared turbine twin screw power plant and the oil fired boilers.

What would be great is a 1/200 Tennessee/California class. or a release of a 200 scale model for each class of American Dreadnought.
Old 05-07-2011, 02:08 AM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

I found this thread from a reccomendation from a friend. Have any of you done more with your ship? I would love to see some cinstruction pics.

Jim
Old 05-07-2011, 02:48 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

When I said the Pennsylvania's were repeats of the Nevada's, I was refering in general terms as yes, there were obviously upgrades and updates. That being said, the dreadnoughts of the US battle line was grossly outdated and obsolete when most of these ships were modernized in the 30s. In my opinion, the Pennsylvania's, Nevada's, Texas and Arkansas should have been scrapped prior to 1941 as they were all too old and slow to do anything more than shell landing beaches. The Tennessee, Maryland and New Mexico classes, being better gun platforms and not nearly as wet, could do the job as well or better than the older ships and, as proved after Pearl Harbor, could be modernized up to the standards of the North Carolina and South Dakota classes except in speed while the older ships couldn't .
As for the Nevada, it is generally known that she was already close to being ready to sail steam wise with part of her boilers lit prior to the first wave of Japanese planes arriving over Pearl Harbor. What is not generally known is had she gotten out of the harbor, she wouldn't have travelled very far as she was taking on water forward and would have sank not far from the harbor mouth due to damage already taken and additional damage she would have taken due to the Japanese efforts to stop her.
For the record, by the time of the Japanese attack, all of the US front line warships were oil burners. The Oklahoma was righted and raised as a matter of national pride and to recover the crew members that had died on board as it was established right after the attack that she was nothing more than scrap metal due to the 7 torpedoes that destroyed the port side of the hull.
Old 05-07-2011, 06:21 PM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

Hi there Saxondog.

I take it you're trying to animate your main guns on your model, yet still have the guns be water tight. Have you ever thought about a magnetic coupling between the gun mount above deck and the mechanicals below deck?

A couple of bar magnets or some small Neodymiums. You can epoxy a shaft to each of two bar magnets (in the center of the magnet on a flat side) and put a thin piece of thin plastic between them. Arrange the shafts so they are pointed at each other with a small gap between the plastic barrier. Rotating one shaft causes the other to follow.

Have a look here: sdp-si.com is just another way you can make neo magnetic couplings. look through the online catalog under couplings, magnetic.
Old 07-15-2012, 03:33 AM
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Default RE: Trumpeter 1/200 Battleship Arizona

Any update to this build?

Kind regards

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