Scratch Built Shrimp Boat.
#127

You can modify any servo to continues rotation. Oppen it up,look at where the finel drive is,you will see a sm box,with shaft sticking out,remove cover from top of box remove drive shaft from housing,remove coper contact from shaft,remove stop from cover " high spot" on under side Try it with an old servo first Larry
#128

Hey Larry, Glad you made it through the storm ok. Sounds like inland got the brunt. Thanks for the info on the servo, I'll look around and see if I can find one. Normally I just throw them away when they break or go bad.
#132

By the time it got up here the winds were off shore, from the West.We had some wind dammage,verry little rain,had worst storms last Winter ( I HATE SNOW ) I did my ORCA with water based paint, I washed it down with the dirty water I cleaned the brushes with. Some use the model RR paints Larry
#133

My Feedback: (5)

Wayne,
I'm currently substitute teaching but if you find an old servo go here for some instruction: http://www.ranchbots.com/club/papers...20Rotation.pdf
Bob
I'm currently substitute teaching but if you find an old servo go here for some instruction: http://www.ranchbots.com/club/papers...20Rotation.pdf
Bob
#135

Thanks for the info Bob. I'll read through it and decide if I want to tackle something like that. At servo city, one of the options is to buy it already converted.
Here are a couple of pictures of the motor being mounted.. All the brass tubing I ordered is in for the booms. As soon as I finish up the motor and mount the cabin I'll start soldering some brass.
Here are a couple of pictures of the motor being mounted.. All the brass tubing I ordered is in for the booms. As soon as I finish up the motor and mount the cabin I'll start soldering some brass.
#136
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schenectady, NY
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ORIGINAL: wayne d
Here is my thoughts let me know what you guys think.
I plan to use and old 7 channel radio I have.
Now if I use a continuious rotation servo, The servo will only move when a control stick is moved, Correct?
If I move the control stick one direction the servo should move in that direction and if I move it the control stick the other way the servo should reverse direction. If the way I understand this is correct, the servo will not move until a input is given, in this case by the control stick.
My plan was to use the throttle for the motor, rudder for rudder, elevator stick for the nets, and one of the dials or switches for the lights.
Will this work?
Here is my thoughts let me know what you guys think.
I plan to use and old 7 channel radio I have.
Now if I use a continuious rotation servo, The servo will only move when a control stick is moved, Correct?
If I move the control stick one direction the servo should move in that direction and if I move it the control stick the other way the servo should reverse direction. If the way I understand this is correct, the servo will not move until a input is given, in this case by the control stick.
My plan was to use the throttle for the motor, rudder for rudder, elevator stick for the nets, and one of the dials or switches for the lights.
Will this work?
Sure, it will work. Make sure you have a radio that is legal for surface use. Nobody wants their fun terminated by the FCC because some body complained.
#137

My Feedback: (5)

I'm sure you've looked at the HSR-1425CR Continuous Rotation servo at Servo City. I was impressed with the dead-band increase to help eliminate creep. Don't remember if it was the article I sent or not but I was reading a couple of the articles about converting servo's and noticed in their videos that they definitely did creep after they stopped moving. That would be pretty noticeable on a net boom.
#139

I may have answered my own question..........
http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/p...s/pulleys1.htm
http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/p...s/pulleys1.htm
#141

Here is what I got so far.
Lots of figuring things out and staring at it for long periods of time. [&:] The booms have yet to be soldered, still deciding about length and size of tubing.
Everything has been ordered, I think. Still undecided about the radio. I could use the futaba 7 channel I have and all I have to buy is a battery. Problem is, its an air radio. Good thing for me is there are no flying fields within 10 miles. Or I could use my JR 9303 2.4 and it would not matter. All I have to buy is a receiver.
Lots of figuring things out and staring at it for long periods of time. [&:] The booms have yet to be soldered, still deciding about length and size of tubing.
Everything has been ordered, I think. Still undecided about the radio. I could use the futaba 7 channel I have and all I have to buy is a battery. Problem is, its an air radio. Good thing for me is there are no flying fields within 10 miles. Or I could use my JR 9303 2.4 and it would not matter. All I have to buy is a receiver.
#144

My Feedback: (5)

I was looking at what you have and the scale of the booms looks to be about right. I'm not sure about the height/boom length, might be right. You probably know better than I.
The one observation I have for you is on all of the shrimp boats you have given as examples the net booms, when lowered, are above the gunwales, yours are resting on the gunwales. You need to raise the pivot point above the gunwales. The lines will hold the "basically" horizontal to the water for the purpose of seining shrimp.
The one observation I have for you is on all of the shrimp boats you have given as examples the net booms, when lowered, are above the gunwales, yours are resting on the gunwales. You need to raise the pivot point above the gunwales. The lines will hold the "basically" horizontal to the water for the purpose of seining shrimp.
#145

Hey Bob
Good catch on the booms. My thoughts were I should have some sort of mechanical stop for the booms as they go down. This, at least in my mind would take any pressure off the servo. I could move the pivot point up to the top of the cabin and then install some sore of stops I suppose.
Good catch on the booms. My thoughts were I should have some sort of mechanical stop for the booms as they go down. This, at least in my mind would take any pressure off the servo. I could move the pivot point up to the top of the cabin and then install some sore of stops I suppose.
#146

My Feedback: (5)

It's really difficult to tell from the pictures because of the angle but I think half to two-thirds of the way towards the top would be adequate. As far as strain on the servo is concerned you'll probably be using double blocks and tackle to make the raising and lowering more realistic. I would think that would reduce the strain on the servo when it is stopped? I do sometimes get confused but multiple double blocks are supposed to make the work easier even though the ultimate amount of energy expended is the same, isn't that right?
There could also be drop down braces that drop down to the deck of the boat as the net booms are lowered? How do the real shrimp boats do it? Just stop the winches?
There could also be drop down braces that drop down to the deck of the boat as the net booms are lowered? How do the real shrimp boats do it? Just stop the winches?
#147

ORIGINAL: rblubaugh
It's really difficult to tell from the pictures because of the angle but I think half to two-thirds of the way towards the top would be adequate. As far as strain on the servo is concerned you'll probably be using double blocks and tackle to make the raising and lowering more realistic. I would think that would reduce the strain on the servo when it is stopped? I do sometimes get confused but multiple double blocks are supposed to make the work easier even though the ultimate amount of energy expended is the same, isn't that right?
There could also be drop down braces that drop down to the deck of the boat as the net booms are lowered? How do the real shrimp boats do it? Just stop the winches?
It's really difficult to tell from the pictures because of the angle but I think half to two-thirds of the way towards the top would be adequate. As far as strain on the servo is concerned you'll probably be using double blocks and tackle to make the raising and lowering more realistic. I would think that would reduce the strain on the servo when it is stopped? I do sometimes get confused but multiple double blocks are supposed to make the work easier even though the ultimate amount of energy expended is the same, isn't that right?
There could also be drop down braces that drop down to the deck of the boat as the net booms are lowered? How do the real shrimp boats do it? Just stop the winches?
I wish I could answer either question[&o]
#148

I decided to go ahead and put a couple of stops on the booms and sort of made them to fit in with the existing structure.
My 12V battery arrived and I put it in the rear cabin compartment. Then I checked the CG and it was looking like I would be adding a lot of lead to the stern. So I put it in the pool with the battery on the deck behind the cabin and its sits about an inch deep in the water at the stern. If I decide to place the battery on the deck I'll have to make a box/shrimp sorter over it.
My 12V battery arrived and I put it in the rear cabin compartment. Then I checked the CG and it was looking like I would be adding a lot of lead to the stern. So I put it in the pool with the battery on the deck behind the cabin and its sits about an inch deep in the water at the stern. If I decide to place the battery on the deck I'll have to make a box/shrimp sorter over it.