wayne d

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Sure, I can/could move the battery all the way to the stern and still cover it. I could also cut the deck to fit the battery and lower it a little more, like an inch. In looking at pictures, it looks like some of the midship booms do not move, and are used to attach the nets to release or draw them in.

rblubaugh

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I went looking for an answer to my first question, which answered the second question.  Seems that midships  boom is used to dry the nets or hang then when not in use.  I never saw it lower than about 45 degrees and often higher when loaded with nets.

Looking at your 'mock up' you seem to have the right idea.  Check out this site for some more ideas: http://www.squidoo.com/shrimp-boats.  There's a song video, "THE SHRIMP BOATS IS A COMIN" which happens to show the whinces part way into the song.  You might want topause it to study it for the fun of it.  Another video shows them weighing the catch.  There are some model boats to look at if you want but I don't know if there are any ideas there.

rblubaugh

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You're right. Don't need to move the battery.

rblubaugh

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BTW, you work fast.

wayne d

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Steadily plugging along

wayne d

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Nothing to do with a shrimp boat., here is a new video I shot today of the lobster boats.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXz_5eawtls

wayne d

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Since we were on the subject of the aft booms. It looks like whomever built the boat had his option.
Some of these, the aft boom is stationary and some will raise or lower.

redmichaelgriffin

Hello,

My name is Michael Ijust wanted to say i really like your shrimpboat modle I am a shrimper from Mississippi I have been talking about building an rc boat for a long time but I dont know where to get parts to build it Iread a few of your comments and one of them you were asking whats we use for boom stops on a real boat. We use 3 cables called stay wires there is one fixed cable that goes from the tob of the mast to about midway of the outrigger so that when the outrigger goes down it rest on the cable and not the winch or pin rail then there is another fixed cable from the topstern boom to the very end of the outrigger and then another from the bow stem to the end of the out rigger they are all stationary once you get the hight of the outrigger where you like it you don't have to worry about them any more the outrigger will not move forward backward or go down any further and there is no weight on the winch and at the top of the mast thereare craddles that are y shaped so when the outrigger comes up they will go into it with no problem and also you dont want them to be straight up you want them on a slight angle when they are resting in the cradle. Also you want your outriggers alittle higher on the roof so when the boat rocks they dont drag in the water and spin the boat around of coarse on real boat they go in the water all the time when its rough. The wight of the outrigger makes the boat rock really slow not like a normal boat I would really like to get some info from you about where to get parts motors and how you figure what size electric motors to use so that i dont under power it. Icant hardly find any info bout shrimp boats nobody builds them.

thank you very much
Michael

wayne d

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Hey Michael,
Thank you for the info on the booms. It will be put to good use.
As far as the other stuff, Your running into the same problem I did when looking to build a boat. I read through different build threads to get enough info to at least start a build. I found that if you start a build thread here on RCU you will find folks that will help.
Two of the best web sites are
Loyalhanna boatyard
http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/
and
Harbor models.
http://www.harbormodels.com/
As stated, this hull started as a lobster boat. But the outline looked pretty good so I went with it. Loyal Hanna has plans called the "Linda Jo" which I believe is a shrimp/Trawler type hull. Loyal Hanna also told me that a fiberglass hull will be ready within the month.
Motor size is normally determined by hull size and weight. So I guess you would have to figure that out first.
Feel free to ask any questions here about boats, I'm sure Bob, Larry, or Quick will pipe in and they have a lot more info than I do or for that matter more than I'll ever remember, But I'll always be glad to help.
PM me and I'll be glad to give you my personal E-Mail if that helps with any info you may need or just post it here.

wayne d

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Hey Michael,
Now I have a question for you.............Looking at the boat I'm building and since you are a shrimper, How does it look so far. Besides the booms being moved further up the cabin is there anything else you would change? Or add? and remove?

wayne d

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Here is a picture that when blown up shows exactly what Michael described. The cables that raise and lower the booms are about halfway to the end of the boom. The outer most cables are fixed.

Again, Thanks Michael for the info.

redmichaelgriffin

Hey man thanks for the info. You have the idea I dont see anything tht needs to be changed Most shrimpers modify there boats to the way they like to work things anyway so just about every boat is a custom boatmeaning the outriggers aft boom and latter are all the same but every shrimper likes them at different angles I like what youhavedesigned it looks kinda like a cajun build or what people herewould say a coonass boat with offshoreA frame style rigging. If you want i could takesome pics ofmy family boat if thereis certain details you would like to see andadd just depends on how detailed you want to get. I have to say tho you have done a good job for someone who has never acuallybeen on one. It looks good sitting in the pool. When you start the keel andall can you order that and the ribs or do you cut them out yourself anddid you just getthe woodat the local hobbyshop My12yr son is into the gas powered rc trucks I have seen that most of the hobby shops carrywood planks and sheets of looks like bosil wood what type do you useI would like to build at least a 35" or plus boat and the stuffing tubes does all that come in a kit How do you keep it from leaking do you stuff it with grease or does it have acual packing like on a real boat. My personal email is [email protected]

wayne d

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Hey Michael,
I'm building a "CoonAss Boat" Now that's funny, considering as a kid and teenager I would go Coon hunting on the weekends.

That would be great if you could shoot a few pictures of the rear deck area. That would help a lot. Post them here.

Now for a boat for you.
I have a set, Two sets actually of plans for the same type of hull. One set is 30" and the other set is 40", which I am building.
If you want I'll run them down to the copier and copy you a set. Just let me know and PM me your address.
What I did was trace all the formers using carbon paper onto construction paper, then traced that onto the wood. Then out to the band saw to cut everything out.
All my wood was purchased from National Balsa except the formers which are 1/4" lanian ply that you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot. If I was building another one I would use 1/8 aircraft ply for the cabin. The lanian ply is a pain to work with and paint.
The hull sides are 1/16 balsa, although 1/8 strip would be better and easier to work with.

Most of my parts come from Harbor Models as did the stuffing box.
Aquacraft has a product, Speed Grease with is put into the stuffing box to lube it and make it waterproof. You and also use a light oil. I prefer the grease, it stays in place better.

Here is a bunch of good info and my other build thread with two 30" lobster boats. both of these were scratch built also. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10581156

Here is the best thing. If you decide to build one post it on RCU and you will get all kinds of help. Or better yet post it right here.

I hope I answered everything, If I missed something, just ask again.

wayne d

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Here is what I'm working on now. Just trying different methods for attaching the pully blocks.

rblubaugh

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Michael has provided a veritable wealth of information!  I hope he is able to also able to post pictures of the family boat and the winch area.  Actually, everything about the boat will be interesting.

wayne d

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Yes, that will be great, looking forward to seeing the pictures.

rblubaugh

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I notice on the cables that raise and lower the outriggers they are using double block and tackle. I checked on the use of these and found that by using a double block and tackle you reduce the effort required to one fourth; 25 pounds of effort will lift 100 pounds of weight.

You have a double drum on your servo to lift both outriggers and I know right now they aren't very heavy, but after you install nets and everything else it could be a different story, as far as the servo is concerned. I wonder if a double block and tackle would be a good idea for the lifting and lowering of the outriggers on your model?

Here is some information from Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block_a...te-advantage-4

wayne d

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I had thought about the double block and figured that the booms weigh nothing so a single block will do just fine. of course if it does not work I change it. I figure a little trial and error is good for the soul.

BTW, My daughter bought me one of those things that woman use in the bathroom, so I took it apart and that thing is about 12 feet long. A 12" section weighs nothing. I post a picture in the next couple of minutes.

wayne d

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here is a shot of the nets.
I forgot which one of you guys told me about them, but thank you.

redmichaelgriffin

Hey ,
I am goiing to go down to the boat and take some pics in a little when the rain slacks up we are having a tropical storm rite now but i have to go check the boat anyway. Ihave some friends who have boats down there im going to take a couple pics of thiers to I will def get the winch area. I also sent you a pm wayne not sure it went through tho it never confirmed that it was sent. I see yal talking bout those outrigger again in real life they are 8blocked on ours but once they are in the air you can hold them up by hand and bring the rope back to the pin rail you just wrap the rope around the winch drum to lift it I will also tke some pics of the door rack and ice hole hatch looks like a good place to hide some stuff. Also what do yal think about this I was thinking aboutusing that 40" of waynes and making a decked over disgne meaning no step down and adding bulworks

wayne d

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Hey Michael
I got the PM and will get you a copy of the plans. Lets say we trade a couple of pictures for the plans. I'll Try and get them copied for you on Tuesday.

That boats sounds cool, Post it here and we could just keep this thread going.

wayne d

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Ok, I just got back from the hardware store and picked up a few items that I think will help attach the pulleys. First is a 1/16 cotter key. A 1/16 hole could be drilled, the pin inserted and just bent over. The second is a small brad. Again a 1/16 hole and then the brad would be soldered.
I'm leaning towards the cotter pin for serviceabilty.

I also picked up a new mini propane torch. My was starting to give me problems like catching fire for no reason[:@]

redmichaelgriffin

ok just took the pics it was really windy and tried to get it done between rain squalls Igot to get on two boats before it started raining again lol My wife is trying to upload them rite now when the weather gets better i can get some more. Som of the pics will show how the nets attach to the outrigger but like i say it depends on how detailed you want to get there is a block that attaches to the end of the outrigger and the main cable that is shackeled to the doors which are shackeled to the nets runs through it and runs back to the winch drum the doors are the wood part that spreads the net when it is in the water not sure if you knew what they were or not. The doors sit in a rack when the out riggers are up the pics should show it but look at them and you can ask me what it is our how to rig it and i can explain through the pics or if you need a more detailed shot i can do that to.

wayne d

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WOW, Look forward to seeing them.

redmichaelgriffin

ok i cant figure out how to upload them you gonna have to tell me how lol