Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Boats > RC Scale Boating
Reload this Page >

Boothbay Oyster boat

Notices
RC Scale Boating Enjoy rc scale boating? Talk about it here.

Boothbay Oyster boat

Old 06-15-2006, 01:33 PM
  #1  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Boothbay Oyster boat

I'm a little afraid to do much bragging about a boat or the manufacturor, but I think I've found one of the easiest 'scale' boats on the market. Very good instructions (if you follow them!), good quality materials (wood) and complete except for the electronics, motor and glue/paint(normal).
Didn't take pictures while building, sorry, but here are a few. Made one modification, a Becker rudder. Doesn't really need it but they just fascinate the @#$$ out of me . Plans call for two battery packs, only had one, so the run time isn't all that great (motor's too big too, but it's what I had... the ducks hate it, I love it!).
- 'Doc

PS - If it's easy for me to build, anybody can do it! Thumbs, noses and CA still don't mix well.
Foirgot to mention it's by 'Midwest'...

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Nl30469.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	336.7 KB
ID:	478069   Click image for larger version

Name:	Cy77694.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	251.4 KB
ID:	478070   Click image for larger version

Name:	Uz68975.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	123.1 KB
ID:	478071   Click image for larger version

Name:	Sm28471.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	156.7 KB
ID:	478072  
Old 06-17-2006, 08:15 AM
  #2  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

With the exception of the Becker rudder this looks very close to my lobster boat. You did a good job on the build it looks great!

Tug
Old 06-17-2006, 08:32 AM
  #3  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

...just glad my camera isn't the highest definition! Otherwise you'd see the things that aren't exactly what they should be . Thanks for the 'flowers'.
- 'Doc
Old 06-17-2006, 11:11 AM
  #4  
Umi_Ryuzuki
 
Umi_Ryuzuki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

I remember discussing and researching the Becker rudders a couple years back.
I didn't know anyone actually got around to building one.

Nice job.
Old 06-17-2006, 12:29 PM
  #5  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Umi,
Warning! Don't get me started on Becker rudders. They are fascinating! I've added a Becker to almost every (recent) boat I've built. Sometimes they don't stay too long, but more because I don't do a very good job of it, rather than them not being sort of benificial, sort of. The one thing I've concluded is that if the Becker's pivot pin is more than 2/3rds of the length of the rudder from the rudder's pivot point, you've got more of a water-brake than usable rudder. Unless you are very 'frugal' with steering inputs. Bet there's some kind'a geometric reason for that distance between pivot points, but I'm too lazy to figure it out.
- 'Doc

PS - 'Fascinated' is sort of like 'easily amused'. Just takes some flashing lights, knobs to twist, or something like that to tie me up for days.
(Corrected this thing three times. Anymore misspelling and you'll just have to live with it.)
Old 06-18-2006, 01:14 AM
  #6  
Kmot
My Feedback: (24)
 
Kmot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 10,958
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

I like your paint stand Doc.
Old 06-19-2006, 10:36 AM
  #7  
Kaskazi
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Waterloo, ON, CANADA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

I'm just coming to the end of building this boat - first I ever did. For the inexperienced, the job has not been without its pitfalls. For a start, I couldn't get the two deck halves to bond properly until the third go, by which time I had sanded enough off to require adjustments to almost everything else I did! The plans are great, but I did find a few things didn't fit right - for instance, the rear coaming was still too short, despite the fact that I had narrowed the boat down somewhat.

Question: how did you manage that hinged hatch? I find that the diameter of the hinges is too great to fit into the hatch lid without splitting the wood and I haven't figured how to trim down the hinges - am thinking I'll just glue the damned thing down - but there must be a way??

A few photos for those interested in the build.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Nl29670.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	81.9 KB
ID:	479808   Click image for larger version

Name:	So42980.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	78.4 KB
ID:	479809   Click image for larger version

Name:	Dj11563.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	99.4 KB
ID:	479810   Click image for larger version

Name:	Qk21272.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	96.7 KB
ID:	479811   Click image for larger version

Name:	Sd45472.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	83.4 KB
ID:	479812   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lc47409.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	98.4 KB
ID:	479813   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ln12438.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	87.4 KB
ID:	479814   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ed10520.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	89.1 KB
ID:	479815  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Nl89551.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	479816   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rd33008.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	83.5 KB
ID:	479817  
Old 06-19-2006, 07:25 PM
  #8  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Kaskazi ,
Whew! Thought you meant the door and hinges leading into the forward cabin, didn't even think about the forward overhead hatch (one of those days). I foound that the forward hatch wasn't large enough to cover the opening I made into the cabin roof. So, found some scrap bass wood, cut it to cover the opening, glued the supplied mahogany hatch in the center of it. Sanded is so that it looked like that was how it was supposed to be. The hinges then fit (you're right, they are too 'thick' for the supplied hatch).
By the way, if you haven't already glued them on, save the supplied brass hinges for the door into the forward cabin from the pilot area. No telling when you may need them on something else, and since they are really hinges, why waste them? (I cut a couple of 'hinges' from aluminum covered paper from a cigarette package, couple of dots for nail/screw heads, looks good to me! - lol)
I like the way you outlined the forward windows!
- 'Doc
Old 06-19-2006, 07:43 PM
  #9  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Here are some pictures of my unfinished scratch built Lobster boat from the same plans you have I think. For my trap hatch I was just going to glue it in place. Instead of planking my hull I used templates then transferred those lines onto sheet plywood. It is a very strong hull.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Sq46247.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	43.2 KB
ID:	479977   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tr51037.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	479978   Click image for larger version

Name:	Hf97677.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	37.2 KB
ID:	479979   Click image for larger version

Name:	Vt58758.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	54.9 KB
ID:	479980   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ec89182.jpg
Views:	15
Size:	43.5 KB
ID:	479981   Click image for larger version

Name:	Xs59733.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	41.6 KB
ID:	479982  
Old 06-19-2006, 08:42 PM
  #10  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Tug,
Certainly looks like it's from the same plans. Also see that you made the cabin door open, wish I'd'a thought of that befor going to far.
For what it's worth, the manual recomended making the hatch open to provide cooling for the ESC and motor. No idea how much it helps, but my ESC does get kinda 'warmish' even with the hatch open (too chicken to try it closed). Also wish I'd'a used a metal rudder, but, no biggy.
Completely beside the point, I removed the 'Becker' rudder today. The method I used for hinging it was on the stiff side (didn't really mean to remove it but broke the plastic hinge while trying to make it more 'limber'. I'm a genius at fixing things @#$%).
- 'Doc
Old 06-20-2006, 12:17 AM
  #11  
Ozboy
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tannum Sands, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Gooday guys, were these boats built from kits or do you start from scratch with plans? I would like to build something like this but I have not done one before. I am a complete noob! Thanks!
Old 06-20-2006, 07:16 AM
  #12  
Kaskazi
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Waterloo, ON, CANADA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

G'day mate! I built mine from a kit and you can find a review of the kit at http://www.rktman.com/rlh/boothbay/review/review.html.

I also was a "complete noob", but I think the pictures show that it's turning out alright in the end. It helps to have a good hobby shop or club nearby from which you can get good advice, because there are one or two things that will be unfamiliar to you. And then with a kit like this, where EVERY step is spelled out in considerable detail (see the manual and plans in my first/second photo), you can do it - just take a deep breath and follow the instructions. Like you follow the menu when you're cooking. Actually, this is easier than cooking, 'cos wood is very forgiving and if you foul up, you can backtrack and more-or-less fix it - never found I could do that with cooking.

Old 06-20-2006, 12:06 PM
  #13  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Ozboy,
Everyone starts being a 'noob', don't worry about it too much. The 'Midwest' kit is a very good one, instructions while not the very best, are certainly good. The 'trick' to building is to take your time, understand what you are supposed to be doing before you do it, and following directions. The next 'trick' is to ask questions when you are not sure, and to NOT glue anything till you think it'll fit right. If you do that, you've got it made. (Glueing your thumb to your nose is only a big problem if you do it more than three times per boat. Correction, four times.)
Some suppliers label their kits for 'Beginners', 'Intermediate', and 'Experienced'. I've found that ~their~ definitions aren't always applicable to me. Getting something to 'ambitious' for you just means more thinking and work. It's still fun.
- 'Doc

PS - I've only found one boat more simple with better instructions, unfortunately, I don't think you will find them easily "down under".
Old 06-22-2006, 07:37 AM
  #14  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

One last thing, I promise.
If you use the kit, save the little round puch-out discs from the control panel. They make great "flipper" covers for the exhaust stack. The plan certainly doesn't call for them, but 'WTH', they look nice...
- 'Doc
Old 06-22-2006, 08:13 AM
  #15  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

What are the 2 eliptical cutouts for in the rear of the deck?
Old 06-22-2006, 08:38 AM
  #16  
Hunter850
Member
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dartmouth, NS, CANADA
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Tug Guy, They are under the main deck and are used for putting weights (lead shot for ballast).

I built one last year and I put the main deck on before I had it properly weighed. I had to drill two small holes in the area of the elipical holes in order to add the shot along with glue to keep the shot from moving around.

The holes are hidden because I also put in a diesel sound maker and it is in a box on deck which covers the holes.

Kevin
Old 06-22-2006, 10:57 AM
  #17  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Kevin this is good to know that I will have to add some shot to the rear. Making a scratch built model has its drawbacks such as not having all the building information when you start. Did you weigh it out or use a specific size container to insure equal amounts of weight?
I found a 6 volt 12 amp battery on batteryspace.com that is very small. I planned raising my deck hatch enough to conceal the battery in that area.
http://batteryspace.com/index.asp?Pa...OD&ProdID=2089
Will I still need ballast in the rear placing the battery as I am?

Tug
Old 06-22-2006, 01:03 PM
  #18  
Hunter850
Member
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dartmouth, NS, CANADA
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Tug Guy, here is a good site for info on the build.

http://www.rktman.com/rlh/boothbay/steps/steps.html


Try and put everything on that you will be using and then set up your ballast. AS best you can at least.

I placed small containers on the deck and filled them with shot until close. Then I just added to the shot to the hull until i was happy with the ballast. It did not take a lot of shot. I used some old lead shotgun shells and cut them open. It was cheaper and easier than trying to buy a few ozs of lead shot.

My main batteries and in the front cabin either side of the motor next to the hull. I just used the recommended batterys and motor by mid west in their instructions.

Just remember the lower the weight is in the boat the better the stability.


Kevin
Old 06-22-2006, 01:26 PM
  #19  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Kevin,
That is a good guide for ballasting Thanks for the link.
Tug
Old 06-22-2006, 04:47 PM
  #20  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Tug,
For what it's worth (no, I didn't weigh it), a home made box about 2 inches narrower than the rear hull (fits between the last above deck formers), about 3/4 inch tall and 1 inch wide full of shot, slid just in front of the rudder tube (above deck) worked just fine. Hows that for an ambiguous statement?! (#8 shot if that helps any... yeah, right.)
- 'Doc
Old 06-22-2006, 05:30 PM
  #21  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

LTDoc every little bit of info helps. I made one error on this model, I made it too solid. My main deck is my only deck and is 3/16" ply.The frames glue to the deck sealing in the area between frames. I will either have to use the resin/shot combo and disguise them as deck ornamentation (boxes, tubs) or I will have to make a thin box almost the full width of the hull. I have a rudder servo sitting on one side under the transom hatch so there isn't much room for ballast.
Here is a weird thought that just struck me. Drill a hole in the deck very near the transom on either side of the keel. Then insert a balloon in each hole and add the shot. Once I got the right amount of shot I could add resin into the balloon then seal off the holes. Good idea or bad?

Tug
Old 06-23-2006, 12:00 AM
  #22  
LtDoc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Tug,
Good question. Does resin affect rubber baloons? Beats me. Being naturally lazy, I'd find the weight of ballast I needed, then cut hole dump in the hull bottom and add glue/resin. Split it evenly if the keel would be in the way. Or, be a bit more 'picky' when finding the correct ballast weight, for each side. On second thought, I think I'm lazier than that. Try the baloon thingy first.
- 'Doc

And after 'third' thoughts (meaning I reread your post, and since you've got the keel thing covered anyway) I'm starting to think I ain't thinking straight tonight...
Old 06-23-2006, 07:14 AM
  #23  
Hunter850
Member
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dartmouth, NS, CANADA
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat


ORIGINAL: Tug Guy

LTDoc every little bit of info helps. I made one error on this model, I made it too solid. My main deck is my only deck and is 3/16" ply.The frames glue to the deck sealing in the area between frames. I will either have to use the resin/shot combo and disguise them as deck ornamentation (boxes, tubs) or I will have to make a thin box almost the full width of the hull. I have a rudder servo sitting on one side under the transom hatch so there isn't much room for ballast.
Here is a weird thought that just struck me. Drill a hole in the deck very near the transom on either side of the keel. Then insert a balloon in each hole and add the shot. Once I got the right amount of shot I could add resin into the balloon then seal off the holes. Good idea or bad?

Tug

Tug, I also ended up putting on my main deck before ballasting so I used the template on the plans to find the center of the elipical holes. This space is blocked off fore and aft by frames.

I used small containers placed on the main deck and filled them with the shot and kept adding to these until she was balanced. I then drilled two small holes about 3/8 dia on each side and slowly poured the shot in each side until I was happy with the weight. I then poured the glue (can't remember but I think it was weldbond or something similiar that poured very easy and then i just kept rocking the hull back and forth until there was no movement of the shot. I then used silicon to fill the holes and make it water tight. You could cover the holes with small wooden disks to look like access ports. Or like I did with my deck box covering the holes. This is the only place that I had to use ballast.

My rudder servo is in the front under the main cabin. The same place as the motor and batteries.

Kevin
Old 06-23-2006, 07:20 AM
  #24  
Hunter850
Member
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dartmouth, NS, CANADA
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat


ORIGINAL: Hunter850


My main batteries and in the front cabin either side of the motor next to the hull. I just used the recommended batterys and motor by mid west in their instructions.

I don't know why i said that but my main propulsion batteries are in the hull where the instructions indicate. Everything else is up forward. My boat is at my cottage so i can't look at it to relate to anything.

Kevin
Old 06-23-2006, 07:35 AM
  #25  
Tug Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Va, VA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Boothbay Oyster boat

Kevin I guess this is the way I will go then. The idea of the ballooons was just a loony idea that hit me as I was about to close the post. Having the frames sealed off in the transom area is great. The shot should find its way to the lowest point which would be the keel area, then adding resin which will always find its own leveling height. Thinking of doing it this way I can seal off the hole like you did with silicone. I can then just add a wall which will fit under the transom hatch to the top of the deck and look normal.

Tug

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.