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RC Boat electronics help pls!!
Hi All
Is there some piece of manual or written/drawn guideline on how to properly connect and place all electrics and electronics devices within an electric 2-engine RC boat (2 engines, 2 ESCs, 1 12V engine battery, 1 receiver, 1 receiver battery, wheelhouse lighting, exterior lighting). To cut it short, I need some "RC electrics for Dummies". Any hint or manual drawing will surely help! Thanks a lot |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
Arminius,
I don't think there is any 'set' method of installing the electronics in boats. The kit manufacturors generally sort of leave that to the builder, since they can't know exactly what the builder has or will use. Some of them give a generic lay out of receiver, ESC, battery, etc, but that's all it is and certainly isn't the only way to do things. In general (meaning there are always exceptions), weight should go where it will do you the most good, electrical components should go where they won't get wet, and servos should go where they are accessible (if possible) and their linkages isn't very long or complicated. Since the receiver and ESC usually aren't all that heavy don't worry much about keeping them centered and low in the boat, dry is more important. It's the opposite with batteries (depending on exactly which batteries you use), keep them low and sort of 'centered' in the hull for ballasting needs. Servos, well, they go where you have to put them. The receiver is the 'brains' of the whole mess, tells everything else what to do. And since it ought to stay dry, put it where it's accessible, dry, and where the leads from the servos, switches, and ESC can reach it. The receiver's antenna is how it gets orders so it should be as high as possible (certainly not mandatory, but a good idea). From that point it's all left up to you (and the boat) as to just where things go. It's also a fairly good idea to keep the different 'types' of wiring seperate, or as far as possible from each other. Keeps interference to a minimum. Wiring can be divided into two very borad 'types', the electrical stuff and the electronics stuff. Anything that produces a spark, or pulsing current, can cause interference. So motor leads and servo leads ought to stay as far from the receiver and antenna as possible. Not always possible, but still a good idea. There are some electonic 'tricks' that can help with interference. Servo leads, or any multiconductor cables can be twisted into sort of a spiral. That helps eliminate interference. 'Supressors' (capacitors) on the motors, and ferrite 'beads' on the leads help too. [Ferrite 'beads' look like ceramic 'donuts', sort of, and if you aren't fairly handy with sorldering, they can be a real pain to put on (cutting cables and resoldering).] Hope that helps. - 'Doc PS - It's probably more than you wanted to know, and as 'dumbed down' as far as I know how to do it. That's what you asked for, not my opinion on how smart you are! I wish there were instructions for how to do all of this stuff, it would certainly have helped me. The good thing about most of this is that nothing says you can't change things later if needed... |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
Thanks Doc for your wise advice. I can imagine that making a general instruction manual on RC electronics would be a bit difficult, because there so are many possibilities... Nevertheless I greatly appreciate your extensive comment. Allow me to add a few detailed questions then, since that is perhaps easier:
1) "keeping parts dry" I would install some sort of sealable 'tupperware' box in the hull to put in the receiver business. Would anything else have to be in there, e.g. the receiver's battery, my ESCs? Any other special considerations on water-protection? 2) As I read from your Wyeforce adventure (great post, by the way): did/do you leave open a hatch or floor panel of the rear deck to access the engines and rudder servo or do you glue down the deckpanel completely once you tested the functionality of the "engine room"? If you keep that hatch removable, how do you keep it down during sailing? My tug-boat "Al Khubar" from the same Model Slipway is pretty similar. For the rest, I guess it boils down to trial and error and hoping I do not end up with a toaster instead of a sailing/lighted boat. Many thanks |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
Arminius,
The easy one first. The rear hatch isn't glued down. I do plan on sealing it with clear tape, though. If the water isn't all that rough the tape really isn't needed, but, I'm chicken. The 'keeping things dry' can be any number of ways/things. Mounting the receiver and ESC high is one method, some kind of water proof container is another. There are a number of water proofing sprays, don't have the names handy though, and other ways to 'pot' receivers etc. Being naturally lazy, I usually mount the electronic stuff fairly high in the hull and let it go at that. I try to pay attention to any water on board and stop any leaks if I can. Or at the very least, drain the silly thing fairly often. The reciever isn't that big of a problem to keep dry, but ESCs tend to need circulating air to keep cool and can get to be a 'pain' to box-up. It can be done though. I tend to try not to worry about it (lazy again), just pay attention to the water conditions. So far, no problems (which just means it hasn't happened yet and probably will.). Batteries don't really have to be water proofed. If they do get wet things just tend to quit working (not good for the battery but..). Whatever works for you would probably be the best method. If you're comfortable with a 'tuperware' container then why not? If you'd rather make a WTC like the submarine guys, that's another 'why not'. - 'Doc (got my 'Wyforce' finished this morning (I think?)! Well, as much as any boat is ever finished.) |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
Hi
To wire your motors and ESC check out this link http://www.modelcontrol.com/index.html Look under technical know-how for a wiring diagram. Bob |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
Have a look at www.offshoreelectrics.com
There are many useful tips about wiring . However , If you wire two motors (which are twin) serially or paralelly , I would recommend you to use an esc which is capable of handle two electric motors such as Novak Super Duty XR and so on... |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
I take the easy way to keep all electronic stuff dry.
I rough sand the hull next to the main motor and epoxy in a vertical piece of THIN plywood. Everything electronic goes on it. ESC's would be right over the motors. Leads reach easily. The ESC's receiver plugs get pluged in the receiver and it is mounted close to the front of the boat. Leave enough slack so you can plug or unplug the ESC's easily. The antenna does not need to be vertical and outside on the deck or mast. Run it to the inside of the hull and around to the bow ( nose ) and back on the other side. Keep it about 1/2" below the deck. I have never needed to twist leads, or need suppressors. I run 40 # thrust trolling motors from Bass Boats in mine. At 14 vdc and surges to 80 amperes. Never a twitch.-------------The reason may be I use a very good Novak Super Reversing Rooster ESC. It runs a small 400 motor just as smoothly. I have 2. 1 was accidently hooked up backwards by me and suffered no problems 3 years ago.---------ALWAYS put in a car circuit breaker or a fuse in the + battery lead to stop fires.------It tripped instantly on the dead short due to the reverse hookup. I have used 2 standard servos as main motors and the ESC's, in a Lindburg Blue Devil destroyer. They can be used in 8" models if you use a smaller size servo. If you like I can show a picture in this post of how simple it is. Rich Cheap and simple with 1 "Y" connector. |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
OK thanks all, the info you gave and the additional website references help a lot!!
:) |
RE: RC Boat electronics help pls!!
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