sevoblast

OK, winter is coming, so it's time to do another build. As most of you know, I am supplying these kits on my sight, so of course I have to build one. As I have sold every one that came in so far, Daryl of Daryl's Parts was kind enough to send me one of his. Amazing, it took only 8 days to travel 7700 miles.

We'll start with the running gear first. On pulling out the various parts for the lower hull, you will find that they are all in marked bags with a description of the parts on the bag. All the suspension bolsters, aka supports, are metal, cast and finished well.

First thing I did was replace the motors with short black cans from my sight. Long blacks will not fit, as the transmissions are literally up against each other, and are shaped a little different than Tamiya transmissions, although you can well see the heritage in the Hooben trans system, right down to the black plastic covers on them.

Hooben has made some modifications to the transmissions, but I do not know what they are at this time. However, there has been a question or two about them, and Daryl and I were working on a viable option, to wit, installing Tamiya transmissions in the Hooben T 55, although my transmissions from Hooben ran quiet and true.

Using a Pershing output shaft, which is a drop in swap in a for instance Tam KT trans, said Pershing output shaft being the exact length of the Hooben shaft, we were pretty much home free....until I popped the Tam trans into the T 55 hull, and put on the upper hull casting for a test fit. No go. 7 to 8 mm too high on the trans. So, back to square one. There I sat, after emailing Daryl about it, rather despondent, with the Hooben trans sitting on the bench...right next to the out put shaft donor Pershing trans. As I pondered the next move, a couple errant cells rocketing around in the old cranial cavity got close enough to set up a static charge and generated a thought. I picked up the Tam Pershing TU, grabbed the micrometer, and measured. The I thought 'no way, can't be!'. But it were. The Tamiya gears are a drop in swap in to the Hooben trans. Hooben simplified the gear tran by eliminating an idler or two, but the entire Tam Pershing gears bolt in to the Hooben trans. The only remaining Hooben gear is the big one next to the motor.

So, what this means is when, not if but when, I bust a gear in this rock and mud garden called home, I have a set of gears sitting here ready to go. I will put the Hooben gears back in the trans as a test, and we'll see how they do here. As most of you know, I build hard fighters, so the Hooben trans system will get it's workout.

sevoblast

We will now start with the suspension system, and this will involve two posts. First, as mentioned the suspension is cast metal, finished quite smooth. The moving parts are also quite well done. I check fitted each part in its suspension bolster, and as needed touched up here and there with 380 grit for flawless operation. Not much was needed for sure. After cleaning, a dab of teflon greas was added to the suspension limiter pivot and the suspension arm where it goes through the bolster. The springs are wound high quality springs, and can be 'clocked' as needed. I will fool with that later when the chassis is ready to run, but at the moment they are set at the softer side.



On each corner, IOW the four end suspensions, is a bell crank attaching from the suspension arm to the shock absorber casting in the hull. In the photo, you will see how I cut a piece of brass tube, bored out the bell crank pivot hole to fit, and installed said tube in the hole. Now no matter how much I use the tank, the only wear will be on the tube, not the plastic hull.



On one of the suspension photos, you will see a small brass bolt head. That, my fellow tankers, will be explained next, He's there for a purpose, and he is not stock.



The suspension fits together quite well. The instructions are good, with only a couple things I modified on the assembly. For one, the instructions say to install the suspension bolsters in the hull, then fit and assemble the suspension limiters, springs, and arms. Right. Like I can use my phat fingers down there. However, you can completely assemble each suspension bolster with all the parts, and then install it in the hull complete. It just pops right in. Number two mod was with the kit comes wire clips to hold the parts together in the bolster. I figure that the way I'm going to run this thing, I would use 'E' clips instead. They work well, and fit right in there in place of the wire clips.

YHR

I am watching with interest. IF one of these isn't under the tree, you will be getting an order soon after Christmas.

sevoblast

So either way I get to sell another kit? Wonderful!

It's so far not a bad build. I am really a little impressed, especially when I consider this is their first effort. And I have just been informed that the parcel with the electronics will arrive tomorrow at my door, sooooo...you can rest assured that I will be stuck inside inspecting and installing them. I actually had the beast running couple days ago, using Tam eletronics, and it was quite smooth and stable.

googlydoogly

Looking good! Can't wait to hear what this beast sounds like.

Panther G

It's on my list of Tax refund pay myself back items. I like the idea that the Pershing gears fit in the Hooben box. I saw Daryl's first hand and also saw the issue with the possibility of the "E"clips hitting the gears. i'm sure that will get worked out but it's nice to have options. Just make sure you have some on hand sometime in April Sev. I'll be calling. LOL

bowlman

I'm watching this thread for when I start mine after I get it from Bob this month nice to know you can use Pershing gearboxes .

Jimmy

sevoblast

Jimmy, the Pershing trans does not fit, but the entire gear train from the Pershing is a drop in swap, no shims or anything, into the Hooben TU if needs be. Hooben's trans frame is quite robust, and of course has the additional gear needed for gear down.

Panther, I'll have them in stock for instant shipment long before that, you can be sure.

bowlman

ok hmm understand now only the gears will swap .

Jimmy

sevoblast

Yes, but that is all you need. The Hooben TU's use a very different bolt pattern than Tam, and no stand offs, so actually it's a good swap if you want to go that way. The gear change is a drop in, and the Hooben trans frame is quite robust, ergo you have no mounting problems at all, no additional holes, no measuring, nothing but the gear swap.

sevoblast

Finally got some time this weekend to work on the T 55 again.

First, info about the plastic assembly. This tank, like the Wasan T 34, is made of ABS plastic. Ordinary plastic glues won't touch it. You need an ABS specific glue. Tenax is what Daryl is using, and also the Plastruct glue should work also. And in the more enlightened west, most any hardware store will have an ABS dedicated glue. Do, with whatever glue you get, experiment with some sprue first to make sure whatever glue you get is kind to the ABS. If you are in EU, UHU also makes and ABS exclusive glue.

OK, now for what I managed to get done this weekend. The four corner suspensions have a bell crank with linkage from the suspension arm to the shock absorber molded in to the hull. This is an oil bath and vane shock, not what most you lads see on your POV's, so what you have is a round molded short nub on the hull side that the bell crank goes in to.

First thing I did was put a piece of brass tube in the bell crank hole in the shock, 2mm ID so the bell crank shaft will go in the tube, and ride on brass, not plastic. My tanks, as most of you know, are fighters, and as such are exposed to lots of dust and grit. Ergo, I don't want this continuously working bell crank to make an oblong hole in the hull.

Next project. The way the suspension arms are set up, the bell crank linkage will go to full extended neutral when the suspension arm is in full down position. All well and fine. However, when the suspension then flexes again, which it will do because full down is with that wheel and the next 'off the ground' so to speak, occaisionally the linkage will lock in neutral, which effectively locks the suspension arm in full down. Now, I haven't tested this chassis with the tracks on yet to any extent, so I don't know if this will happen with the tracks on. However, I don't want to find out that it will indeed lock in full down when someone is irritated with me and trying to shoot my tail feathers off. So, simple modification for this.

Daryl, our Resident Genius, developed a simple sliding, wedge shaped, stop for his tank, the wedge going under the suspension limiter in the metal housing. Me, being not a genius, did it the old way. I simply bored and tapped a 2mm hole to take a screw or bolt under the limiter at it's full down side. On the two front suspensions R & L, I installed the screw from inside the hull on the hull floor. On the two rear suspensions, since the TU's cover that spot, I installed a 2mm bolt from under the hull. The trick is to adjust the bolt to lift the suspension limiter just enough to prevent it from going to full down and lock up. IOW, as in the photo, it's kind of like your knee being slightly flexed. Once adjusted, back it out 3 turns, use a tooth pick and apply a drop of blue loctite to the threads at the metal suspension housing, screw the bolt or screw back in the 3 turns, and you are good to go. A bolt or screw with blue loctite on it, if needs be, can be gently worried out, IOW gently turn it back and forth as you work it out.

bowlman

Sounds good Bob sorry late with answer back been bizzy with work and the new house .

Jimmy

sassgrunt

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you for the build hints, Bob. Just knowing that it's possible to build up the suspension components BEFORE installing the housings to the hull, made the whole installation much easier than it would have been by assembling it all the way the instructions say to.

One thing that I really don't like is those small bent-wire "C" clips that retain the suspension arms. None of them were tight enough to grip well on the shaft, and I squeezed them tighter before fudging them into place ("snapping" them into place is really the wrong term to use, because I'm sure they loosened back up just by installing them). I don't have a lot of faith that they'll hold up over time; but I couldn't find replacement "C" clips (like the ones that come in Tamiya kits) that would fit into the recess in the suspension housing. If you know of some; that would be an aftermarket accessory I would buy. Along with metal tracks and ball bearings for the wheels - well, all in good time, I'm sure.

I like your idea for preventing the lock-down situation of the corner suspension units. It's sure a lot easier to do at this early stage, rather than trying to retrofit them later.

All in all, I'm very glad that I bought this tank - I am enjoying the build very much. Thanks again. -Mike

sevoblast

Yes, it does make it much easier to assemble outside the hull then inside. On the clips, I found that the standard 'E' clips will fit on the suspension arms. I've got a herd left over from various builds and modifications, and I used just standard ones. It's a tight 'pop' in, but they do go and stay much better than the stock wire clips.

I am on hold at the moment in the build, waiting for ABS glue to arrive. There is no such thing in this berg, I've been to about a kazillion shops from hardware to speciality shops, and you get the blank stare. They always offer some generic 'stick it' glue, but of course that won't work in the environment our tanks will be in. Sooo... while waiting I have an unfinished project to finish and weather. I'll resurrect that one Tuesday when I have a day off.

YHR

Plumbing shops should carry PVC glue.

sevoblast

You don't understand what it's like here. There are no plumbing shops as we would know. You will find shops that have plumbing etc, but the standard water pipes here are not ABS or PVC. They use a curious system of literally melt together pipes. I have that tool for when we built the house. However, ABS or PVC water pipes ain't here, period. I'll look up in the directory for plastic fabricators and see if we have any of them in the AO. If so, they might have some. Operative term being 'might'.

To give you an idea of life here, VCO and I were out on the balcony about an hour ago, well knowing something was going to happen, as the lights were dimming out for over an hour before. While we are sitting there, the ENTIRE CITY went black as if one master switch was thrown. We can see from our digs on the north side of harbor about 10 klicks south, to the hill overlooking Balaklava, and there was not a light anywhere. We apparently have the only generator in town. To qualify what just happened, I've been here for 5 years, and this is the first time I've seen the entire city black. Spot blackouts happen, although since January of this year they have been rare. However, whatever went was big, as electric is gone in total in City, and also gas and water (no electric, no pumps). Ergo, although it will not go below +2C tonight, no flat in the entire city has heat.

No government facility has back up power. No police, no GAI ( the much loved traffic cops), no GRU, no FSB, no SBU, no OVIR building has backup, period. The Russian Navy Hospital on the other side of harbor does have massive generators, and about 1o mikes ago they came on. They are the ONLY lights on besides ours anywhere in sight besides the Russian Navy ships in harbor, which are lit up like Christmas trees...what few of them are here. Ukraine Navy ships are powerless and have no lights on. None of the other hospitals in City have back up generators.

YHR

OH. I thought you were in Florida!!!!!!

sevoblast

Actually, for the last almost two weeks, Jacksonville, my previous digs, has been colder than we were. Go figure.

Darryl Usher

I thought you moved to some place warm. On the damper on the four corners. I tried a shim in Daryls location but when I let the wheel snap back the arm would over travel so I built a stop where the clip went to stop the arm.
Darryl Usher

sevoblast

I did, Daryl. We don't get the proverbial 'Russian Winter' here. Couple 2 inch snows a winter is the norm.

Got photos of your stop for the arm?

Tanque

Hey it has even been 'extra' cold here, as wimpy as winters are by comparison. -4 C and this afternoon it hailed fiercely for about
4 min. I had an extra shot in my Nog to mark the occasion...

I'm watching your construction thread with interest my friend; until you're done, you the pioneer, my kit will remain in my closet snug as a bug in a rug!

Jerry

sevoblast

We had an unusual cold shot back in October, way colder than normal, then it was back to our 'soft season', the reason we live in this berg...mild day and night temps. I was actually running around in T shirts until mid last week. However, I think when it hits, winter is going to be another tough one like last year. All the dogs have massive winter coats, more thick then VCO has ever seen. The blue girl, Sophia, looks like a musk ox. And walks like one too, but that's normal for her. Ballerina she ain't.

I'll get to plugging away at the T 55 again in a few days, and will post more photos as I go. Mayhap I'll get lucky today and find some ABS glue in this berg.

Panther G

What Is UP With The Massive Pics. You need 2 monitors to get everything on screen at the same time. 

sevoblast

Next batch I'm going to try loading one at a time as someone else suggested. Don't know what happened to the sight in regards to photos.