Snowykoeld

just got my first RC tank yesterday! its a HLPanzerIII. its too bad i broke the antenna on the radio :/
oh well, i have an extra one from my broken F4U's radio.


man do HL Panzers like to throw tracks!!!! in less than 24 hours, it already threw 2 tracks, and almost threw tracks 3 times! well, i guess they don't make them to do dounuts in the snow lol

pattoncommander

Tanks were not designed to run full tilt and do a doughnut. Tracks do not lock for max turn at high speed, and even at 10 mph, the driver really has to tug hard on the lateral to make a tight turn, and pivots were not possible on a Pz III. I have had 8 Pz IIIs and have never thrown a track.

Pah co chu puk

See... tinkering, just like I said.

Drive it like a real tank and it will do better.

Now you need another tank to tinker with.

Snowykoeld

i only did dounuts for less than a minute. and only once.

anyways, i have been trying to drive it like a real tank and its awesome! even better than playing World of Tanks!

Devildog0341Va

I got the HL Panzer III Ausf H and love that bad boy. Its a beast, now just need to update the electronics so I can battle

pattoncommander

Bear in mind, top speed for any of the Pz III series was around 25mph, under ideal conditions. WW II German tracks had a very short life, as they were dry pin dead track and tended to wear out very quickly and were prone to breakage. An average speed would be about 15 mph on roads or cross country 5-10 would be a normal speed. Anything above that for extended distances would be asking for trouble.

wayne k

it is pretty awesome.i've had mine about 2 months,i added the track tensioner and the front drive axle support and it can handle terrain that used to throw a track.

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

If you want a real beast, go for the Asiatam lower hull and better electronics. that thing will run like a champ! Love the little PIII. Very reliable and alot of fun!

thecommander

You might want to try building your tank hull a s a low profile hull. That way you can use either the Pzr III top or a Stug III top. You can have two tanks for the price of one. The lower hull is where most of the hard work is. Good luck and enjoy your new tank.

Ern

PattonC, your comment reminds me of something I've always to ask... should the metal tracks on RC tanks be oiled in any manner? Seems like friction will take its toll on these in time. Does anyone do it?

Glad you are enjoying your Pz III. I just picked up a Creeping Death version and love it!

Snowykoeld

i've been driving the tank more realistically; i don't just gun it every where, i slow down when i go off road

flak88bait

I recently just got my very first tank (well, tank destroyer), the HL StuG III and man this beast is fun to drive.  Just had a test run in my backyard, runs like a dream.  One of my road wheels actually didn't turn (I replaced it with one of the 2 spare road wheels sitting on the rear hatch), and after 15 minutes or so of hard driving it actually broke in and started turning fine.  I threw some tracks too, but that's because I tried to negotiate terrain that included large rocks while turning tight, etc., not a big deal.  Just pop them back on and they're good to go!  I'm looking forward to getting in some IR tank battles, I was practicing setting up ambush positions in my backyard for those pesky Allied tanks hahaha

pattoncommander

Ern, Don't believe the pins on RC tanks are subject to the torture of 1;1 scale tracks. The tracks on RC tanks are very light, have close tollerances and totally different materials and don't have nearly the torque as 1;1 scale. It's the dust, sand and road grit that got into the track around the pin and ground them down. Adding oil to real ones only tended to collect more dust. I had that problem with my own tank that I rebuilt a few years ago and had to occasionally change out loose pins. In two cases, I could just drive the old pin out with a new one around the idler, then put on ther cap and clevis. German, Russian, Japanese and early British tanks all had this problem. The single pin US track of the M-41 and early Pershings were live track with splines, the same as double pin tracks with end connectors.

British tankers, please correct me if I am wrong...I believe later tracks such as on the Crusader & Cromwell, had improved track with configured pins. I am sure Centurians did.
Bill

Snowykoeld

I wish the tracks could handle tight turns while on rough terrain, but as you said, easy out easy in.

you gotta watch your ambushes though, remember, TDs don't have good armor on the sides and back. i mostly practice patrols and open battle field fights. my brother is getting a KV-1 sometime soon. that'll give me something to shoot at

thecommander

Congrats Snowey.. You got a great tank to start with. It is a good investment since no one else makes it but HL.

Devildog.... You just need to add the DBU. This weekend in Danvile, one of the NEAD members, Maraget, will have her DBU M26 there. Total cost to build is was under $200 for her dad, Jim. You will meet them on Friday along with the rest of the NEAD group. Are you getting exited yet Jim???


A tank video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RI5zRb-iDFw

Buckeye36

My Feedback: (3)

Margaret's Pershing is stripped down and in the paint booth.
She wanted to paint and weather it up for Danville.