1/16 M60 Patton Scratchbuild
02-24-2015, 08:14 AM
#77
Looks nice Nate.
02-24-2015, 08:43 AM
#78
So far, your Patton looks like it's gonna need to go into a glass case and be put on display in a Miniature Military Model Museum.
The quality of your work is inspiring. When I compare your work to my stuff, I am inspired to give up pretending to be a modeler and take up basket weaving.
rex
The quality of your work is inspiring. When I compare your work to my stuff, I am inspired to give up pretending to be a modeler and take up basket weaving.
rex
02-24-2015, 02:02 PM
#81
Thread Starter
Thanks Mal, the inner surface of the hatch is simply flat right now, I might go in and use a sanding drum to carve out the dish when I detail it. I'm not sure if it'll give a good effect but I can always leave it flat since I figure the hatch will be closed 90% of the time.
05-02-2015, 08:37 PM
#83
Thread Starter
Hey guys, here with another update! At this point the lower hull has been detailed, here's the build report.
Lower glacis:
Prior to adding the details on the lower glacis, I textured the entire lower hull with Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. The process is very straightforward, I simply stippled the paint on with an old paintbrush. I tried to match the degree of "roughness" of the hull texture by using various M60A3 photographs as reference. Overall, I applied about three coats of surface primer. Next, the front and rear tow hitches where built and glued on. Note that the rear towing hook was omitted. In my experience, pieces that protrude too far out tend to fall off mysteriously during handling...
Side hull details:
This bit of the build involved scratchbuilding the suspension supports that go on the sides of the hull. I used the 1/35 model I had as reference in conjunction with photographs of the real vehicle to determine the proper placement. The side towing hitches were also built:
Next were the suspension shocks. I had debated for a while on how to tackle this. I finally decided to build them using styrene and stainless steel tubing, since the stock I had were the right diameters. The stainless steel tubes were inserted into the styrene tubing and CA'd on. Working with styrene made fabricating the shock mounts very easy:
Mounting the shocks on the curved hull was one of the most challenging parts of the build so far, since they had to be at the right angles so as to not interfere with the movement of the suspension arms. As you can see, the shocks aren't actually connected to the suspension arms, since their tips will be covered by the road wheels anyways. I figured that the shocks would more robust as single fixed pieces. To make painting easier, each shock to secured to its mounting point by a screw:
The triangular suspension guards were also installed:
The other side:
Lower hull detailing complete!
I also ordered a set of Leopard 2 track guides from Mato, these clamp onto the sprockets and makes them look closer to the sprockets on the real M60A3:
Tracks on! The return rollers were also re-positioned to tighten the tracks:
That's all for now, the upper hull will be detailed next!
Nate
Lower glacis:
Prior to adding the details on the lower glacis, I textured the entire lower hull with Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. The process is very straightforward, I simply stippled the paint on with an old paintbrush. I tried to match the degree of "roughness" of the hull texture by using various M60A3 photographs as reference. Overall, I applied about three coats of surface primer. Next, the front and rear tow hitches where built and glued on. Note that the rear towing hook was omitted. In my experience, pieces that protrude too far out tend to fall off mysteriously during handling...
Side hull details:
This bit of the build involved scratchbuilding the suspension supports that go on the sides of the hull. I used the 1/35 model I had as reference in conjunction with photographs of the real vehicle to determine the proper placement. The side towing hitches were also built:
Next were the suspension shocks. I had debated for a while on how to tackle this. I finally decided to build them using styrene and stainless steel tubing, since the stock I had were the right diameters. The stainless steel tubes were inserted into the styrene tubing and CA'd on. Working with styrene made fabricating the shock mounts very easy:
Mounting the shocks on the curved hull was one of the most challenging parts of the build so far, since they had to be at the right angles so as to not interfere with the movement of the suspension arms. As you can see, the shocks aren't actually connected to the suspension arms, since their tips will be covered by the road wheels anyways. I figured that the shocks would more robust as single fixed pieces. To make painting easier, each shock to secured to its mounting point by a screw:
The triangular suspension guards were also installed:
The other side:
Lower hull detailing complete!
I also ordered a set of Leopard 2 track guides from Mato, these clamp onto the sprockets and makes them look closer to the sprockets on the real M60A3:
Tracks on! The return rollers were also re-positioned to tighten the tracks:
That's all for now, the upper hull will be detailed next!
Nate
Last edited by Captain Nemo12; 05-04-2015 at 03:51 PM.
05-04-2015, 07:49 AM
#87
Nice work Nate. This will be a one of a kind model!!!
05-04-2015, 03:49 PM
#88
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! Mal, I wanted to get these at first:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Heng-Long-1-1...-/221448914649
But the price including shipping was too much for what they were. The Mato ones are an excellent (and cheaper) alternative, but they don't clamp onto the sprockets completely. The track guides are still free to rotate when the sprockets are stationary. I'm not sure whether this is intended or not, but I can always fix them onto the sprockets with foam tape.
Nate
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Heng-Long-1-1...-/221448914649
But the price including shipping was too much for what they were. The Mato ones are an excellent (and cheaper) alternative, but they don't clamp onto the sprockets completely. The track guides are still free to rotate when the sprockets are stationary. I'm not sure whether this is intended or not, but I can always fix them onto the sprockets with foam tape.
Nate
Last edited by Captain Nemo12; 05-04-2015 at 03:54 PM.
