saber77

Hello All

I just order my 1st tank kit I'm getting A tamiya 1/16 Tiger 1 now I'M new to rc tanking Ive built models on an off
for a long time but not to the finish I have seen hear . I am building in hopes to battle so it should be use a lot outside I hope
anyway. So my question is I think i would like to replace the road-wheel bushing with bearings but i have been looking on the net
and can't seem to find them so I was hoping someone might give a link or if not anyone might happen to know the right size that would
be cool .I was hopeing you could give good info for a 1st time builder so I can get this up and rolling just want to say thank you very much now

TheBennyB

Hey Denny,
Mitosal carries the bearings your looking for. Not much is needed for the Tamiya tiger 1 to be a good and dependable battler.
Only things I would consider are the metal elevation arm and gearbox plate from ETO. You may want to change motors, but that can be decided
after you run it stock and see how it performs. Here are links to both the bearings and ETO's
site. I'm busy today, but call me this week this you have other questions or just to chat.

http://mitosal.com/Bearings.html

http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...productID=DP08

http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...productID=DP21

ausf

Congrats on an excellent first choice. The Tammy Tiger I is by far their best engineered kit and a proven winner. If you go on eBay and search 1/16 tank bearings you'll find a company that sells kits that are sized specifically for each of the tanks.

Personally I wouldn't bother, I have one running on the included bushings (with original motor, gearboxes and tracks) that is over a decade old and still going strong. The wheels don't spin fast enough to warrant roller bearings in my opinion, but that's up to the builder, it certainly couldn't hurt.

Depending on which kit you may not even need to change the elevation arm. If it has an aluminum barrel, I would, if it's the original 56010 with a styrene barrel, the ABS arm will work fine. What happens is the plastic arm connects the barrel pivot to the elevation gearbox, if you've got a heavy metal barrel (like the 88) swinging around, the metal shaft will elongate the hole in the arm. You can buy an aftermarket metal arm of make your own if you're handy. You'll see what we're talking about when you crack the box.

Don't take that as a recommendation not to upgrade if you want to, just that you've bought a great kit right OOB with no need to change anything. I know builders have all different tastes for what they want to do, and with this one you can stay stock, go nuts or anything in between and be happy.

One tip, after you open the suitcase and get your eyeballs back in your head, it's good to break down the parts bags into separate containers. They're organized by numbered bags and it'll be much easier to grab what you need it you keep them that way.

Also, again depends on which one, but pay attention to the material. On the sprue, it's be marked ABS or PS. The original 56010 was all PS (styrene). If you need to glue ABS to ABS or PS, you'll need a MEK based cement like PlastiWeld, Tamiya Extra Thin, etc.

Panther F

If I were you I would use Ambroid Pro Weld liquid cement. Not only does it work on styrene but ABS, Butyrate, & Acrylic (Lucite or Plexiglass)

That's why I use it to assemble all of my kits. If I have one with a resin conversion kit I turn to a 5 minute epoxy. Plus the epoxy is great for metal upgrade parts to as YOU can control the amount used and it won't become fragile like super glue or CA will.


Good Luck Buildin'!



Jeff

saber77

thanks for the post guys this is the tank with the full option and comes with the aluminum barrel so I think I will be getting that part
I did not know about the marking on the sprue for the most part though it would be the same plastics I have use CA glue on some things
i don't like it as much as other types some times it dry to fast some time with me hook to the part. I do wood working and use if for a finish
some pens i've made and they come out nice I like epoxies a lot myself the filler type I was thinking would make some weald lines but I want to take my time
I would really like to do a nice job to her so it look well done an not a hack job thanks for all you thoughts hope to keep hearing from you all, What time during the day
works for you Benny?

Tanque

"My tank is on the way......"

You sound like an expectant parent!

Sorry no offense intended, I guess I'm jealous in a way, it's been a long, long time since my first tank "was on the way"!
Trying to recall how I felt when I got my first Bandai Hummel...although a Tamiya Sherman in 1975 actually being my first real rc tank.

Jerry

ausf

Don't use CA on plastic. The strength of the bond with styrene or ABS comes from a solvent actually melting the two surfaces, fusing them together. CA justs bonds two surfaces (with the exception of melting styro) and really has very low sheer strength. I've been using Testors Blue for 15 years with no issues whatsoever. It's a great styrene adhesive available everywhere and inexpensive. Plus your liver won't fall out from using it. For ABS (your roadwheels might be, not sure, the new kits are), there's a higher threshold for fusing, so MEK based is necessary. Tenax 7, Tamiya Extra thin, PlastiWeld are those options. Much more expensive, evaporate extremely fast (MEK is highly volatile) and if you use it too much for too long, your liver will fall out (that's why you can't find the stuff anymore, only "substitute"). And no, don't use the ABS cement from Home Depot. Yes it's the same material the black plumbing pipes are, but the glue doesn't work the same.

In terms of CA, I wouldn't even recommend it where it is widely used in modeling: holding brass to styrene. If you ever saw a fully PE'd static model shed some details when being moved, you'd see the downfall of low sheer strength. Not something you'd want with an RC model. PVA based is a much better glue for dissimliar surfaces since it remains flexible. My first Tiger I version used the full Aber set and had no trouble with the details staying on during battle. By contrast, I've seen CA'd PE be knocked off by sliding a finger along the surface.

TheBennyB

Between 2-4 in the afternoon or after 8:30pm.

Tanque

I second Ausf's comments on ca adhesives. The sole purpose I've used ca is setting up metal parts just long enough to spot any holes I need to make. Then
I separate the parts and clean off the ca and proceed with drilling the required holes.

I've had variable results, mostly disappointing using ca for anything else.

It's pretty good at gluing my fingers together, I have to admit that.

Jerry

saber77

Thanks guys for the replies to my post . Ausf you did make me LOL where I use to work the guys use to use MEK like bath water
if you can believe to clean up with when the feds came in one day the guy almost had a heartatack OK Benny I'll call you then