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Old 04-03-2015, 09:06 PM
  #51  
RichJohnson
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Still working out the BARC4. Ive got some throttle glitch coming out that makes the idle sound pop and start throttle up sound and back to idle, when the motors are idle and not moving and the stick is centered. Not sure what is going on with this. I thought it was from the ratchet stick but switched to the self centering spring stick and it still sound glitches, though not as much.

Any way, a few photos overall with my driver siting in the tank, He has to be sat in place by lifting the body because his shoulders are too wide to drop through the hatch. He sits right on top of the relocated on off switch. He, and my other figures are made by Sol model of Korea.


TOOLS, I painted weathered and mounted the tools. Lighting aint so great but you get the idea.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:32 AM
  #52  
RichJohnson
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I am really getting frustrated with the BARC4. For one, it is killing all my batteries almost instantly. I had them charged up on Thursday. I don't think they went dead by today but I went through 4 nicads in about 2 minutes each and not even getting any driving time on 2 of them. This system seems to require a really good battery. I don't know. The BARC3 in my panzer wanted fresh batteries but it wasn't this sensitive.

I am also frustrated now that to fire the gun up left the barrel elevates nearly every time and I have to bring it back down. I took a video but gave up because operation sucked and I got pissed so Im not going to post it.

Pretty much the flash and recoil servo stop working very quickly then the tank dies when I try to drive.

Also, in moving my gun trim around to try and null the barrel going up, effects the turret rotation and takes it from smooth to pulsing, pausing and very glitchy. I don't know why the elevation trim would effect the rotation but it did.

Overall, Im just frustrated with all the channel mixing going on to make things work. The way I have it right now, there is no way I can do battle with this tank.


Im charging my batteries again, and going to try a shake down with a fresh charge, but not sure what to do or expect.
Old 04-04-2015, 12:32 PM
  #53  
sergeantseabass
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It sounds like you have a bad connection in your system. I'm using a BARC4 as well and I haven't had that problem. Although one thing I did do was to run the BARC4 right from the battery. I don't have mine being slaved through the RX-18. You might want to try that. The instructions that Dan sent do cover how to run off the battery directly. that could also help you battery drain. but I think it has more to do with either a bad connection or a short somewhere.

I do agree with you about the firing. I'm not a big fan of it. i understand why it is like that but it still doesn't mean that I have to like it. I'm not great at mixing my own channels and on mine the fire is actually down left.

Have you tried contacting Dan about this. He has always been very good about responding to any of my questions. I hope you get it figured out.

Bill
Old 04-04-2015, 06:18 PM
  #54  
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Dan and I converse a lot. Even on this thread.

So I recharged a few batteries and the tank performs much better. It glitches a lot on low battery. Don't know why they were all nearly dead after two days. They are all new batteries except one.

I ran it around quite a bit and did lots of firing. It operated much better but the turret rotation glitches if I so much as move the elevation lever up or down even a little while throwing the stick full left or right, then the rotation motor glitches and hesitates. kinda frustrating.

I put my HL panzer3 with a BARC3 out and had the tanks shooting at each other. Both have BARCs and Tamiya recivers and Battle armor IR bulbs. The panzer can hit the Sherman from a whole front yard away, like 50 feet. The Sherman had to get about half that distance to hit the panzer. This was after I tested them at 10 feet to confirm operation. I probably need to push the IR bulb close to the end of the barrel.

The major pain in the ass is the up left fire control. 99% of the time when tap up left the barrel goes up too. Either making me miss the shot or making it, but making a follow up shot impossible.

At this point I don't know what to do. I don't like the operation and in reality to make any use of it in battling I am going to have to unplug the elevation servo and go with a fixed barrel position.

The BARC 5 needs to be created to run a separate channel with a toggle or push button to tigger firing (channel 5) Machine gun (channel 6) and servo elevation up and down. That would be a perfect top of the line plug and play system IMHO. Perfect for guys like us that want to completely upgrade the system in the HL not using anything but the rotation motor.
Old 04-04-2015, 07:02 PM
  #55  
sergeantseabass
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I agree about that part but at the same time it doesn't really make it plug and play anymore. I'm going to try my hand at some channel mixing to get the cannon to fire on one of the toggles on the RX9 to fire the cannon. Of course for the amount of work that i did end up doing I wonder if it would ave been smarter to go with a system that takes all the functions and gets rid of the RX-18 al togeher. It's not that i don't like it but I think in the end I probably should have gotten a system that just replaces everything. Ohh well gues we either keep plugging away with the BARC4 or get another system.
Old 04-04-2015, 10:08 PM
  #56  
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The BARC 4 is not designed for independent control of the cannon. My suggestion is to run the elevation control independently through the receiver on a proportional 5th channel. Otherwise leave it stock and let it cycle through the HL cam set up, like it was designed to do. Independent control of the bbl elevation is not really possible just using the 4 standard channels, for the reasons you have mentioned.. Remember it has never been advertised as independent control of elevation.

The BARC 4 because of all the trigger points is much more sensitive to trim control. You need to have cannon elevation trim fully engaged, unless you have a programmable radio where you can set the sub trims. Once trimmed out the turret will run smoothly.

True plug and play has its limitations when using the stock tank components. When you choose to get creative and work outside the lines for what this was designed for then things can and do crop up that require special measure to work through. Perhaps a servo adjuster can be added to give you the delay you require so that when you fire the cannon the elevation servo does not move.

I wired up a DPDT center off toggle switch on my radio. Flip the lever up fires the cannon, down fires the MG. Pretty simple fix that gives me a switch on the radio for weapons fire. Again servo elevation is best done with a complete separate proportional channel, as per my recommendations.

What radio are you using?

Cheers


Dan

Last edited by YHR; 04-04-2015 at 10:11 PM.
Old 04-05-2015, 01:36 PM
  #57  
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I did some driving and testing today. The tank drives pretty nice. Overall the BARC4 does what its supposed to and it will stay in this tank, possibly forever. Mainly because the mating IR receiver base is semi permenantly mounted in the turret. I can modify turret operations if I get another radio and move elevation off onto a separate channel. If I can find a radio with a toggle on top that goes both directions with the servo (unlike my dx5 which only does landing gear one direction) then I can run my continuous servo elevation with that single pole double throw toggle, hopefully I can make it momentary too.

So I started working on my crew. I haven't painted a military figure since I was maybe 14 or so. Been a long time. The figures aren't completely assembled yet since some parts cant go on till they are painted as they would interfere with painting.


And here is a video that is better representative of a good operating BARC and my attitude.


The editing is still taking time, its sideways on youtube right now but should turn right side up soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkctOE7YoTM
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Last edited by RichJohnson; 04-05-2015 at 01:44 PM.
Old 04-05-2015, 01:58 PM
  #58  
sergeantseabass
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Ntot looking to bad. You sure you want to keep the track recoil on? you know you can turn it off.
Old 04-05-2015, 02:06 PM
  #59  
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Yep, I am going to play with that next, here is why.

On the barc3, if you turn off track recoil you loose the gun fire command and the tank does fire the IR, (I think) but no gun fire sound. I don't know if Dan found a fix around that or not.

We will see in a few minutes.


Update-
Yep, still set up like the BARC3. If you turn off the track recoil you loose the gun fire sound. Servo still pulls back and the lights still work but no sound. Mabye I will disable recoil during battle just to make it easier.
I bet Dan can comment, I think this is were a Bendini comes in because it adds the gunfire sound and hit sounds if you set it up like that.

Last edited by RichJohnson; 04-05-2015 at 02:50 PM.
Old 04-05-2015, 02:56 PM
  #60  
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Must be. i'm rinning mine with the benedini, and I don't have that problem. Thats a shame that you can only have either both or none. Hopefullt Dan has a fix/solution to this.
Old 04-05-2015, 03:48 PM
  #61  
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You can add a $15 sound card from 123 electronics to give you a customized cannon and battle sounds. The BARC sends signal to fire these.

I will check on the sound. I think in the programming sound stage if you select the hit and destroy as the same then the cannon sound we come back. It has been so long since I sold a BARC without a TBS I can't remember, but I will check.

Cheers
Old 04-05-2015, 05:03 PM
  #62  
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OK. When the recoil is blocked you don't get the HL Cannon. There is an output pin on the BARC that will trigger a sound from a 123 electronics board to play a cannon sound.
Old 04-05-2015, 05:38 PM
  #63  
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Had a look at the video. The jerky turret rotation should be dialed out with full trim down on the elevation channel. Also the link I mailed you to the Turnigy servo controller would be really good in this application. Replace the servo reducer with this other controller, and you will have the ability to reverse the servo and slow down its speed of operation so the barrel moves smoother. Should also help with that issue you were having with the Barrel moving when your fired the cannon. Although in this video it seemed OK.

If you buy a DPDT center off toggle you can wire this into the radio, and have your weapons control on one toggle. I can show you how to wire it up.
Old 04-05-2015, 06:58 PM
  #64  
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Yeah Dan, I was working real hard to hit the stick as fast as I could to get it to fire and not go up at the same time.

The spot where you see me stop the turret and it is working right when it starts again, I moved the trim right there.

I will try one of those sound boards. Ille email you. Now its on to the figures.
Old 04-06-2015, 06:18 PM
  #65  
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If you guys don't mind sharing on the dual pole switch and wiring on the switch that would be fantastic to future builders!
Good looking tank and I'm sure you and Dan will get all the gremlins worked out.
Old 04-06-2015, 06:38 PM
  #66  
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I will do a tutorial and put it on my website. I will link to it from RCU, once I get it done. It is very simple. You end up with a toggle switch at the top of your radio. Move it forward and the cannon fires, move it back and the MG fires. My demo will be done to work with the BARC4. What you are basically doing is moving the 45 Degree firing position on the stick to a toggle that replicates moving the stick.

The reason I moved the firing position on the MG and cannon on the BARC4 is to allow a person to add servo elevation on that stick for independent control of the bbl. You need to add a servo controller to slow down the speed at which it moves as well.
Old 04-10-2015, 07:24 AM
  #67  
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Because everybody likes pictures, heres a quick picture of my progress on the figures. Nearly done painting. Im not all that great without perfect references but lots of reviewing Fury pics to help me and the box pictures.

I got the Hobby King radio T6a that Dan recommends and a turnigy servo reducer. I was unable to slow down the continuous servo I have for elevation so I removed it and put in a regular servo.
I initially set up the elevation now on the dial knob as Dan recommended and things work a bit better. I am also going to try to use the turnigy reducer on the elevation servo and try it on the ratchet stick and see of well that works once I get the programming cable for the radio, it hasn't come yet.

I will get a video for you guys soon.
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Old 04-10-2015, 09:11 PM
  #68  
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As promised here is a video update on the new radio operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43fgvhW5xjA
Old 04-11-2015, 05:08 AM
  #69  
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Not bad. That tank is looking pretty good.
Old 04-11-2015, 10:08 AM
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I don't think you have added the momentum feature either. Between turning on the tank and actually starting the tank you can turn on the momentum . Full up on the stick that you use to fire the cannon will turn the momentum on. After this start the tank and it will save this setting, so you don't have to do it each time.

Looks good. Once you get the cable let me know. I can email you some different transmitter settings to try.
Old 04-12-2015, 07:49 PM
  #71  
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I have turned the momentum on a couple times thinking its not on. I think that the metal gear boxes and metal tracks are effecting the momentum. It doesn't have the momentum performance that my Panzer 3 does with all plastic drive and barc3.

I battled at LA Tank today with the A1. It performed very well with decent battery life on the batteries charged on the new charger. It shot very well, and I did have to use my barrel elevation quite a bit as I was shooting on the move a lot trying to flank the enemy. I had the track recoil turned off because I couldn't hear the gun shot any way over all the loud tanks.

One guy was really impressed and wanted an M4a1 tank, the museum told him you cant buy one, no one makes one right now. So he was trying to offer me lots of money for mine. I wasn't tempted but then he wanted me to build another one for him.

With the radio change and the track recoil turned off I am quite happy with this tank operation now. Except that darn idle to throttle sound glitch when sitting still. That wont go away.
Old 04-17-2015, 06:35 PM
  #72  
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Ok I got my MATO plastic tracks today. These are the ones Dan recommended to use since they have metal end connectors and guides. I don't know if they are any more robust for operation than the HL plastic tracks, but they are thicker so they tread may last longer on hard surfaces.
They DO NOT fit the HL drive sprockets, metal or plastic.
I got out a MATO aftermarket duckbill T74 set of tracks and test fit the drive sprockets with these plastic tracks, they do fit.

Now the down side...
The set I received has some issues. One track is fine. The other I noticed several spots where the track blocks were further apart than the others. Upon inspection, I realized the blocks do have have two holes drilled in them like the metal ones, they are hollow, with spacers in various important spots to maintain directional rigidity.
The cause of the extra spacing between a few of the blocks was the cross pins were bent into a V shape inside the hollow track block, allowing lots of slack between those two blocks because of the engineering of the block. I painstakingly pushed one bent pin out, and straightened it and put it back. A serious pain in the ass compared to the metal MATO track pins. Im sure the pins got bent up while being over pressed into place. I don't know if these things will run and not bind on the sprocket with the extra space between a few blocks. I will eventually put on the MATO sprockets and try them out.

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Old 04-18-2015, 02:06 AM
  #73  
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They don't fit the Mato metal sprockets - I've seen people try them when they first came out, and even after some serious dremeling to the sprocket hub, they still don't run right. Sounds like you have a bad set, as I haven't seen bent pins on new tracks before.

(also the track pins are different between the metal and plastic versions, so you can't even use them, nor the edge connectors )
Old 04-18-2015, 06:16 AM
  #74  
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Yeah, I saw the pins are different. I wrapped this track around a sprocket that came with my MATO T74 duckbill set and it seemed to fit the sprocket ok. I would think that must be the sprocket that is meant for these tracks. It cant be a sprocket the same as HL because the HL isn't wide enough.
Old 04-18-2015, 07:52 PM
  #75  
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Ok guys, I got my 123 sound chip. I installed it and turned my track recoil off. I like the operation real well now. The sound draw back is since the 123 and the rx18 are both running sound, there is a slight stop of engine sound right after the gun fire sound. I don't mind right now. Maybe next time on the Jumbo I will try out a bendini. Any way enjoy the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t9AeRBdjHk

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