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Old 05-04-2016, 03:16 PM
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ausf
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Once I ditched the fine adjust screw and got the printer square to the bench, I haven't needed to level the bed. I've tried a host of different settings, but have settled on a .4 (nozzle size) first layer followed by .1. I've been printing a bunch solid since I need it completely water tight, but 3-5 layers solid top and bottom work well for me. 3 passes or brim with a 6mm runout and the last dozen or so prints have been flawless.

Do you mean extruder itself or the settings?

I had to put in a new thermistor since mine pulled out a lead. I soldered it, but the gurus sent me a replacement. I'm not entirely sure about the accuracy of the temps, the highest I've gotten with infrared thermometer was 190C when the printer was set to 235C, but whether it's accurate or not, it's calibrated to what I'm doing and my filament, so I'm not bothered. I set it at 240 first layer, 230 after that, bed 80, the 70. Again, I don't think that's accurate to actual temp since there's barely an odor and no smoking of discoloration, just straight, smooth extruding that adheres well layer to layer. Since PLA is supposed to do that at 190-210, I'm guessing actually temps are around there. In the long run I may look into calibrating the software, etc. but for now it's working and I'm having too much fun to mess around with it.

I get beautiful glass smooth first layers straight on the bed, but had a few small things break loose so I've been using two layers of wide Tamiya tape (haven't got a chance to grab painters tape yet).

Usage wise, I don't see much of a dent in the spool, but I'm printing relatively small stuff.
Old 05-04-2016, 03:30 PM
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Sorry, fingers aren't fast enough for the brain - I meant extruder nozzle.

Mostly it concerned the layer lines/outside finish quality/speed, where .4 was the nozzle that came with equipment, .3 provided a better finish but slower build speed and .2 was slightly superior to .3, but painfully slow. Build time is relative I am sure.

Fun? what is this fun you speak of?
Old 05-04-2016, 05:23 PM
  #28  
jatoRC
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Originally Posted by ausf View Post
Not styrene, but ABS, so you can glue styrene to it...
If it can print in ABS why not styrene? I use HIPS (high impact poly styrene) and the temps are the same as ABS on my printer.
Old 05-04-2016, 07:48 PM
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Just a personal preference but I did not like the glossy smooth bottom of prints, with the PEI plastic top layer on my heated bed, I actually sanded it to a matte finish with really high grit sand paper, it makes the bottoms of the printed parts better match the sides in terms of glossiness. You should really look into the PEI stuff because you don't need ANY tape or glue EVER. When the bed cools, the parts can be simply swept off the print bed, its literally magic lol. Self-releases.

I actually print on a mirror tile, and the PEI is sticky taped onto the mirror, and the mirror is clipped onto my heated bed. I have several of those made up so I can swap the plates out to let the bed cool without actually stopping the printer.

I use the E3D Volcano extruders in my printers, they added a 0.4mm nozzle for them recently. with 0.4mm nozzle I do 0.2mm layers, 0.1mm first layer. First layer is defiantly the hardest thing to get right, every printers so different.

I've found that when you do a solid object without any infill, only using 1 preimeter allows for smaller detail on really tiny pieces. Having more preimeters in some spots will not get filled in as well and will have more gaps and holes.

Some really good general info here too: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/
Old 05-05-2016, 04:50 AM
  #30  
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PEI is on my list. I placed a McMaster Carr order before I read your suggestion, so I'll get an 12 X 12 piece next time.

Good to know regarding the perimeter, I been using 3. The only area I've found that leaked on any end cap prototype was where the inside perimeter met the fill.
Old 05-05-2016, 09:07 AM
  #31  
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Awesome and welcome to the club. My printer is very similar to yours. They are both offshoots of the Prusa I3 design. Mine has dual extruders. I wonder now if the dual was worth it. It is convenient and I like not having to switch colors often but the added mass means a little slower and less accurate prints.
I bought mine as a kit for Christmas because I wanted to put it together myself. It was a good experience but I like stuff like that.
What are you using for a slicer? I use Repetier and Slic3r host, I have a raspberry pi connected to my printer running Repetier server so I can access the printer from anywhere. For me, that was a huge convenience. I didn't want my laptop connected via USB at all times. I can give you info if desired. You can do it for less that $20.

You probably already know this but check out thingiverse, especially this guy
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:232248

He has literally hundreds of tanks to print out and I have made about 30 so far at 1:100 scale.

My printer has been running about 10 hrs per day since Christmas.Love it to death.

Perry
Old 05-05-2016, 09:16 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TheGreatestMoo View Post
...
I actually print on a mirror tile, and the PEI is sticky taped onto the mirror, and the mirror is clipped onto my heated bed.../
Is there any difference between the mirror plate and the glass bed plate (i.e. settings) other than the mirror probably reflects some heat from the printing head and maybe increased heat setting to get a required temp?

Nice tip on the PEI
Old 05-05-2016, 01:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Perry S. View Post
Awesome and welcome to the club. My printer is very similar to yours. They are both offshoots of the Prusa I3 design. Mine has dual extruders. I wonder now if the dual was worth it. It is convenient and I like not having to switch colors often but the added mass means a little slower and less accurate prints.
I bought mine as a kit for Christmas because I wanted to put it together myself. It was a good experience but I like stuff like that.
What are you using for a slicer? I use Repetier and Slic3r host, I have a raspberry pi connected to my printer running Repetier server so I can access the printer from anywhere. For me, that was a huge convenience. I didn't want my laptop connected via USB at all times. I can give you info if desired. You can do it for less that $20.

You probably already know this but check out thingiverse, especially this guy
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:232248

He has literally hundreds of tanks to print out and I have made about 30 so far at 1:100 scale.

My printer has been running about 10 hrs per day since Christmas.Love it to death.

Perry
Thanks.

I use Sketchup Make, Slic3r and Repetier.

I don't mind keeping the laptop hooked in, the charger, et al is there so it's a natural home for it and it doesn't keep me from using it at the same time a print is running. Does the PI replace the Arduino, or is it a separate thing?

I will definitely check out those tanks, I really haven't looked at anything out there yet, having too much fun doing stuff for now.

For giggles, I just printed out a 1/285 bombed out roof frame. It worked like a charm, but I'm going to redo it even thinner. I designed it with .2mm rafters on 1mm center. I'm going to go with .1 on 1.5mm next since this came out rigid as heck for what it is, 1 mil thick 20X40 piece.

I am constantly amazed by the uses of this thing. I needed a spacer for a figure base. I pulled out the stock styrene to trace, cut and sand, but then I looked over at the printer. Literally within 5 minutes I had the exact piece I needed with an added overhang to attach it.
Old 05-05-2016, 03:19 PM
  #34  
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I used a mirror because its a higher tolerance then plain old glass, my printers are 12x12" and at that size even glass can be un-even. Mirrors any defect in the glass would show in the mirror so it seems to be made to more strict tolerance.

My heated bed consists of: PEI > 3M 486MP double sided sticky tape > 1/8" mirror tile > clipped onto 1/16" general purpose aluminum (must be thinner then the mirror so the aluminum will deform up to the mirror, too thick and the mirror will actually deform down to the aluminum) > PCB heater > 1/4" cork board.

I use Simplify3D. It has some issues but overall I love it, the manual support material placement is so nice. I've used repiteir host in the past and slic3r. I no longer print from my PC at all, every print I do I remove my SD card, load up files, and run the prints from my Viki2 LCD panel, love that thing too! All my printers run on Smoothieboards which are also extremely epic.

I originally started a couple years ago with a Da Vinci printer and I would say to avoid those!
Old 05-06-2016, 09:07 PM
  #35  
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Jeff congratulations on the printer. It looks like you're getting the hang of it. I also have a Prusa I3 printer which is all metal. I can understand the issues with leveling the bed which is most important. I had the same issues that's why I decided to add an auto-level system and added led lighting to let me see the bed better during printing. I also added an LCD screen so that I can print without connected to a PC. I used Openscad, Slic3r and Pronterface. I used mainly PLA and ABS from Hatchbox.I usually print PLA at 190 degrees extruder and 90 degree heated bed. I printed the recoil mechanism of my StuG III and the auto center lever for my Turnigy 9xr pro, case for my ClarK TK22 and other pieces. I made my daughter an arduino powered hexapod using the printer. It is really a very useful tool for a hobbyist.
Old 05-08-2016, 05:31 PM
  #36  
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Does the PEI plate do anything worth while if using the PLA filament or is it strictly for the ABS?

- Never mind, answered my own question here - http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface

Last edited by Big N00b; 05-08-2016 at 05:44 PM.
Old 05-09-2016, 09:03 AM
  #37  
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Yeah that link is like EXACTLY what I do on my bed works perfectly. I found I had to get the bed way up to 115C for large ABS prints to avoid 100% of warping/curling corners
PEI really is magic though!
Old 05-09-2016, 04:04 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ausf View Post
Thanks.

I use Sketchup Make, Slic3r and Repetier.

I don't mind keeping the laptop hooked in, the charger, et al is there so it's a natural home for it and it doesn't keep me from using it at the same time a print is running. Does the PI replace the Arduino, or is it a separate thing?

I will definitely check out those tanks, I really haven't looked at anything out there yet, having too much fun doing stuff for now.

For giggles, I just printed out a 1/285 bombed out roof frame. It worked like a charm, but I'm going to redo it even thinner. I designed it with .2mm rafters on 1mm center. I'm going to go with .1 on 1.5mm next since this came out rigid as heck for what it is, 1 mil thick 20X40 piece.

I am constantly amazed by the uses of this thing. I needed a spacer for a figure base. I pulled out the stock styrene to trace, cut and sand, but then I looked over at the printer. Literally within 5 minutes I had the exact piece I needed with an added overhang to attach it.
The Pi basically works like a server. It turns the printer into a network printer. So I can upload the files to it from anywhere and access the printer with a web browser. It also serves as a webcam server so I can sit in the other room and check on the prints. I had the ting in my front room for 4 months I used it so much but eventually as prints became complex and turned into 8-10 hr prints I decided it was time to move it. You can see the Pi in this picture. It is the yellow box I printed up.



Here's what the integrated webcam looks like. It's built into Repetier Server which is free.



You can also see the cooling fans I installed. I have dual snorkels due to 2 extruders. I designed it myself in SolidWorks. You'll want to get one as soon as possible. Check Thingiverse. There are probably a bunch that will fit your printer already.

Here's a couple of the 1/100 models I made.just primered, not really detailed.





Perry
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:19 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Perry S. View Post
The Pi basically works ...
Perry
Perry, I'd be interested in the specifics of your setup as far as the Pi card type, camera (Pi model I am guessing?), software(Repetier server) and Wifi (another assume).

Terry
Old 05-10-2016, 05:42 PM
  #40  
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I started with this website I think

https://electronicgeektips.wordpress...aspberry-pi-2/

Then did a little googling and youtube watching. Used a RP2 with a USB dongle for wifi. The new RP3's come with wifi built in and basically cost the same. Ended up using a Logitech C270 webcam I bought on ebay for about $15

There is info on the Repetier Server website as well. All the software is free.

Perry
Old 05-11-2016, 02:31 PM
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Funny, I had looked at that site earlier in the day. Thanks, pretty much following your steps in looking at the RP...interesting stuff to say the least . There may be some more packages in my future.

BTW Jeff - a large box, fully packed with smaller boxes and paper cushioning showed up...wonder what it could be?! and Moo, a right size piece of PEI and tape showed up about the same time.

Thanks to all posters for their experiences and ideas, it created a ton of possibilities without "your" headaches learning all those little tricks. I'll be sure to post up about my own headaches - LOL!!

Oh Brad - I forgot to mention that you've given me an idea regarding LED lighting that I will try out at the same time I am putting this all together.

Thanks again.

Terry
Old 05-11-2016, 06:32 PM
  #42  
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Sweet. Enjoy the build.

My PEI sheet will be here tomorrow.
Old 05-17-2016, 02:10 PM
  #43  
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The PEI sheet works like a charm.

I've been messing around with settings just trying different combinations and fine tuning, then for giggles I set the layer height to 50 microns (the specs on this machine say the resolution is 100) and it worked beautifully.
Old 05-21-2016, 05:37 AM
  #44  
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Good to know on the PEI sheet, figured it would be a good addition.

Spent the time this week building the Pi server connection and playing that learning game.

Be able to run printer in work shop from pic in den. Will be testing wifi range today.

Perry is right, a cheap investment (even with web cam) for the opportunities. Getting stuff set up right is a chore, but fixing mistakes is pretty easy...fortunately.

Perry, what firmware are you using in you Pi setup for the printer - I am considering (and probably will use) Repetier's firmware instead of the Marlin that comes with the printer software.

Last edited by Big N00b; 05-21-2016 at 01:52 PM.
Old 06-23-2016, 11:12 AM
  #45  
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Update: Been a month since I posted about this and I am taking my [email protected]@-time, that's for sure

I've got a good little wireless network dedicated to the Pi (for the printer server) via a netgear wifi extender. Worked perfectly at the midpoint between den and garage area, boosted a single dot signal to full strength signal. File transfer speed is a non-issue now.

I took some time to work the smooth rods to a better finish, which I just finished yesterday. After cleaning the rods with chrome polish, I used Brasso and 2k grit wet/dry to further smooth out the rod surface. Once done, I used carnauba cleaner wax to polish the rods.
The difference is staggering when compared to how it is from the box. I am guessing here that the bearing sleeves require some break-in time to become smoother? mine seemed to be catchy/draggy straight from the box and after working the rods. I had decided to go the IGUS polymer route as alternate bearings and while they were way better on the original rods, they now slide with the slightest of effort, sounding almost like falling snow as they move - I mean REAL quiet shshshshshsh sounding . I've also got metal replacement guide rollers to replace the plastic ones on the belt pulleys (F623ZZ Flanged Miniature Bearing 3x10x4).

I will be installing auto-leveling functionality using the inductive proximity sensor setup....more to follow as it happens.

Last edited by Big N00b; 06-23-2016 at 11:14 AM.
Old 06-23-2016, 11:28 AM
  #46  
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That's interesting, I'll have to look into that.

I looked into replacing the threaded rods on the Z axis with Lead screws from CNC setups, but I ended up extending the nut itself so it's more secure.

I'm sure we could go on tweaking these things 'til doomsday for better performance, but after the PEI sheet, I've been getting consistency without touching anything. Just design a part, print, turn off. It's great to need a 26mm ring with 1.2mm thickness and 4mm height and have it in my hand about 4 minutes later.

I've been printing with PETT lately, great stuff.
Old 06-23-2016, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Big N00b View Post
Update: Been a month since I posted about this and I am taking my [email protected]@-time, that's for sure

I've got a good little wireless network dedicated to the Pi (for the printer server) via a netgear wifi extender. Worked perfectly at the midpoint between den and garage area, boosted a single dot signal to full strength signal. File transfer speed is a non-issue now.

I took some time to work the smooth rods to a better finish, which I just finished yesterday. After cleaning the rods with chrome polish, I used Brasso and 2k grit wet/dry to further smooth out the rod surface. Once done, I used carnauba cleaner wax to polish the rods.
The difference is staggering when compared to how it is from the box. I am guessing here that the bearing sleeves require some break-in time to become smoother? mine seemed to be catchy/draggy straight from the box and after working the rods. I had decided to go the IGUS polymer route as alternate bearings and while they were way better on the original rods, they now slide with the slightest of effort, sounding almost like falling snow as they move - I mean REAL quiet shshshshshsh sounding . I've also got metal replacement guide rollers to replace the plastic ones on the belt pulleys (F623ZZ Flanged Miniature Bearing 3x10x4).

I will be installing auto-leveling functionality using the inductive proximity sensor setup....more to follow as it happens.
You using a Pi2 or Pi3? I've been eyeing one of those Pi3 for a NaS and another for home automation....
Old 06-23-2016, 11:47 AM
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Yeah, I looked at that lead screw setup also, but the "consensus" seemed to be that the change-over brought little difference, that's pretty much why I settled on the clean-up route on what came with the kit. The pulley piece (I think) is just the topping on making the whole belt arrangement work easier with itself (we'll see what real world versus theory produces lol!!)

Does the PETT finish up as shiny as it looks on the spools (are using colors or just clear)?
Old 06-23-2016, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Imex-Erik View Post
You using a Pi2 or Pi3? I've been eyeing one of those Pi3 for a NaS and another for home automation....
The Pi3. Used "N00bs" to set it up as a Linux box. For the most part, painless...but my brain couldn't handle that and I think I screwed it up a few times. Fortunately, reset and start over WAS easy

If you're going to use it wifi style and need one, I used a netgear N300 (EX2700) - $30 @ Amazon.
Old 06-23-2016, 11:59 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ausf View Post
It's great to need a 26mm ring with 1.2mm thickness and 4mm height and have it in my hand about 4 minutes later.
It's amazing the things you 'must have' when you realize you can make it in a few minutes.Since I do not have much time to work on tanks I am printing an assistant.

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