1/16 Trucks
#702
The longer it is out, the more likely you will get a better deal on it.
#704
I have 4 of them in various configurations, plus one on order, and two stripped down as parts donors. I have watched the features and details improve over time. I also have seen the price fluctuate like the price of gold on the open market. If you like one of them, find it for sale and watch it. When the price is right, buy it.
The one I have on order was listed by the factory web page at $75 US. I found a site that had it on a special time limited sale for $59 US. I missed the sale deadline, but checked it again anyway, and it was down to $45 US. I ordered it.
The one I have on order was listed by the factory web page at $75 US. I found a site that had it on a special time limited sale for $59 US. I missed the sale deadline, but checked it again anyway, and it was down to $45 US. I ordered it.
#705
I have 4 of them in various configurations, plus one on order, and two stripped down as parts donors. I have watched the features and details improve over time. I also have seen the price fluctuate like the price of gold on the open market. If you like one of them, find it for sale and watch it. When the price is right, buy it.
The one I have on order was listed by the factory web page at $75 US. I found a site that had it on a special time limited sale for $59 US. I missed the sale deadline, but checked it again anyway, and it was down to $45 US. I ordered it.
The one I have on order was listed by the factory web page at $75 US. I found a site that had it on a special time limited sale for $59 US. I missed the sale deadline, but checked it again anyway, and it was down to $45 US. I ordered it.
They are still cool though.
I've done a lot of work to mine. Converting it to a fuel tanker. I've also upgraded it to metal gears in all the axles, metal driveshafts, and the 2 speed gearbox. Right now, I'm just waiting for the 2s lipo to get here, since I'm having trouble with the stock batteries.
#707
I want to do the two speed gearbox. These things need to be slowed down and they need more power climbing over stuff. I haven't upgraded any electronics or motors / driveshafts on them yet, but I plan to in the future. Right now I'm just having fun setting up convoy trucks to go with my tanks.
#708
My Feedback: (1)
Just a little experience I had with the first one I am playing with. I installed a better battery, esc, and Tamiya toque tuned motor to this one as a test. I also bought a flysky GT% radio for it. So after getting it together I took it to my shop for a test drive in the open space. At about half throttle the steering activated full right and I of course crashed it. No harm done surprisingly, but I wanted to find out what happened. So, I spent the day playing around exchanging the battery pack, then the esc, then the receiver, and also the radio. At that point I said either the truck is possessed or I am getting some sort of interference from the electric motor. I took the motor out and threw the stock one back in problem solved. Does anyone have a clue here or is it as simple as a faulty motor? Only thing I see is there is no capacitor on the new motor. I think I will install the dual motor gearbox and be done with it, as that will slow it down dramatically, which is something it needs anyway.
Last edited by yellowshaker; 10-03-2018 at 06:19 PM.
#709
Not having caps on the motor is almost certainly causing the interference. If it were me, I would try taking two of the Caps off of a tank motor and putting them on the truck motor to see if it makes a difference.
#711
Hey Joe,
It would be fun to see how you would do up a truck to go with your WW2 stuff. I did this one up as German, it still needs weathering and some more details, but it looks nice parked next to my stug.
It would be fun to see how you would do up a truck to go with your WW2 stuff. I did this one up as German, it still needs weathering and some more details, but it looks nice parked next to my stug.
#713
Thanks. Please post pix of what you come up with, I'm sure it will be inspiring.
Not good to hear about the metal drive shafts. I want to upgrade all that stuff latter. I have noticed that they (whoever "they" are) have upgraded the axles somewhat. The first one I got had a solid axle with a bevel gear on it where the differential should be. This one I did up as German seems to have a real differential with spider gears and everything. Look for the models with an over sized differential and you can see that its bigger to accommodate the ring gear. They turn much smoother than the solid axle types.
Not good to hear about the metal drive shafts. I want to upgrade all that stuff latter. I have noticed that they (whoever "they" are) have upgraded the axles somewhat. The first one I got had a solid axle with a bevel gear on it where the differential should be. This one I did up as German seems to have a real differential with spider gears and everything. Look for the models with an over sized differential and you can see that its bigger to accommodate the ring gear. They turn much smoother than the solid axle types.
#714
My Feedback: (1)
The ring gear setup is on one of mine as well. The JJRC models use them. However, they slip very easily under a load and do not work well in my opinion. One thing that can be done to help that is to add some oil to it. I believe rc4wd sells it. That seems to help a lot with slipping. I am not a fan but for the money what can we expect?
#715
Yep. These trucks are totally cheap, but they look OK and make good props for pix and movies. I just hope the keep improving them. There is not a lot of other choices.
#716
Nice looking support truck for the Germans. You can keep your Stug out in the field longer now!!!
#717
Thank you. I do have an IR target circuit that I can wire into the battery feed so that a tank could "kill" the truck while it was attempting to service a tank in battle. It could also be used as a "convoy" that tanks need to hit in a battle scenario.
I hope to take it over the mountains to FRAG next summer and let PanzerPaul and his buddies take shots at it. Perhaps take it to a battle with DAK or the folks in SO CAL too.
I'm wiring them all (I have five of these trucks) with the battery plug in the cargo bed, so the target circuit can be used in any of the trucks just by plugging it inline into the battery feed. It will look like a big crate with an apple on top. I have modified an old HL apple to sit lower, and still work to receive hits.
I researched German army trucks, the symbols on the fender show it as a mobile armored maintenance unit of the 6th Armored Regiment, of the 3rd Armored Division. When the Wehrmacht invaded the USSR, they used 100 different types of trucks. Pretty much any truck from Europe in the 30's or early 40's could be a German Army Truck. If it was made for the German army, or captured by the army, it got a licence plate with a WH prefix to the numbers. If it was a German civil owned truck or car, like a police car commandeered by the army, it kept it's original licence plate, but got the letters WH painted on the drivers side front fender. WL referred to vehicles owned by the Luftwaffe.
I hope to take it over the mountains to FRAG next summer and let PanzerPaul and his buddies take shots at it. Perhaps take it to a battle with DAK or the folks in SO CAL too.
I'm wiring them all (I have five of these trucks) with the battery plug in the cargo bed, so the target circuit can be used in any of the trucks just by plugging it inline into the battery feed. It will look like a big crate with an apple on top. I have modified an old HL apple to sit lower, and still work to receive hits.
I researched German army trucks, the symbols on the fender show it as a mobile armored maintenance unit of the 6th Armored Regiment, of the 3rd Armored Division. When the Wehrmacht invaded the USSR, they used 100 different types of trucks. Pretty much any truck from Europe in the 30's or early 40's could be a German Army Truck. If it was made for the German army, or captured by the army, it got a licence plate with a WH prefix to the numbers. If it was a German civil owned truck or car, like a police car commandeered by the army, it kept it's original licence plate, but got the letters WH painted on the drivers side front fender. WL referred to vehicles owned by the Luftwaffe.
#718
My Feedback: (1)
For anyone interested. I found a fix for the cheap metal driveshafts. The original set screws are too small and cannot be tightened enough. So, I drilled out the holes in each one and tapped them to 3mm set screws which actually fit just fine and tighten up well. Just tested the truck and all works fine. Now to find some machine screws to fit the wheels back on....they were missing from the metal upgrade kit also. baby steps it is.
#719
For anyone interested. I found a fix for the cheap metal driveshafts. The original set screws are too small and cannot be tightened enough. So, I drilled out the holes in each one and tapped them to 3mm set screws which actually fit just fine and tighten up well. Just tested the truck and all works fine. Now to find some machine screws to fit the wheels back on....they were missing from the metal upgrade kit also. baby steps it is.
#721
#722
Please keep this good info flowing guys, thanks.
#723
I don't suppose any of you have a picture of what the roof of the GMC Workshop Truck looks like? I've found a picture of a diecast model, but the details don't match photo's of the real thing...