Originally Posted by Imex-Erik

Just a bit at a time, HL has a heck of a time selling anything correctly these days. As long as we don't see any huge issues (we have had a few with HL before) then we should keep bringing some in, just never a bunch at a time due to the QC with them. The new modern tanks are a TON better than the older tanks for sure. If you guys see something new come out you want just lmk, I can't promise I can get it but I will be happy to try!

I believe you are correct, I remember the new mold showing up around the 6.0 time too. I've included a few of the latest ones we got with the 7.0 electronics. It seems the same as before, however I think the speaker molding may be new or I missed it last time I was checking. The smoker still has a separate heating element and fan like the older ones and the switch panel is the same too. However the gearboxes are now covered similar to the TG ones but they cannot be removed easily like ours do. Other than that the tank seems to be the same except for the electronics revision up to 7.0. This one only comes with 2 sound sets compared to the 6.x versions but they are getting pretty good. The quick way to differentiate between 6.x and 7.x so far I've found is to check the volume. If you can just press the volume button and it cycles like it always has then you have a 6.x or below board. If nothing happens when you press that volume button and instead you have to press the volume button and left stick up/down to adjust volume then you are on the 7.0 system. I'm sure there are a few other commands, just a quick and easy way for us on the internet to figure out what version they have. There is also a few commands you can do between the 6.0 and 6.0S to see which one you have there too, just can't remember off the top of my head.
Hopefully these images help those looking!

Originally Posted by sclui

Except I have to remind myself to face the turret backward on shutdown. To be honest, other than the few quirks in using a hobby grade Tx with the Taigen, I much prefer my Taigens samples for the sturdiness and easy of access (knowing I can do magnets on the HL, but I also would have to stiffen the hull). The upper deck of Abrahms feels flimsier to me than the Plastic Taigen Leo 2 upper deck, not considering the turret.

Originally Posted by DeEmEn1234

Yup, I hated it, and sometimes I forgot to close the panel and almost break it. Also, I bought the brace from RC Legion to stiffen up the hull. It works great but you need to relocate the control box, which is really annoying consider the wire to the motor is very short. It's all because of the brace has a cross bar covering up the original box mounting spot. It's really annoying. The brace when it comes to my home, it was a little long, so I have to cut the aluminum. You also have to be careful not to bend any part of the brace when you cut it, since aluminum is really soft. It took me a long time to bend them back to be somewhat perfectly straight, but not perfect. After installation, the brace messed up my lower hull a little and when I bolt down the upper hull, it got deformed a bit causing the turret having a hard time spinning. You really need to be careful if you planned to do that on your tank.

Originally Posted by sclui

Appreciate the heads-up, but the brace is OOS now so it will be a while before I do that. I am more used to Taigen's metal hull so the flex in HL bothers me. As for the MFU placement, first of all, it is weird how the tabs/slots are molded in the hull, they are not aligned in a couple of dimensions. I feel they could have done a better job in lining things up and give a bit more slack considering how large the hull is, yet, I have to be careful in making sure the wires are properly routed every time I close up the Abrams, otherwise, I would either have clicks or stoppage on rotation or elevation.

BTW, just swapped out the HL metal tracks with the DKLMRC Leopard tracks today. Wasn't intended to at first, bought those tracks for my Taigen Leo 2, however, when I increased the tension slightly using the tensioner on the Taigen, it moved the idler up & forward, just enough to interfere with how the top catches the lower hull, and more importantly, the new tracks rub against the underside of the front fender, so that's a no go (I feel if I took out links and reduce tension, the right side idler would butt up against the 1st road wheel). So the Abrams benefited from a new set of tracks unexpectedly.