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Updating the Sherman

Old 06-01-2020, 07:15 AM
  #1  
Jarlath
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Default Updating the Sherman

I for some reason love the technical upgrading of my used RC Tanks.

My KV-1 and many other projects are awaiting some soft silicone 18ga wire for making flexible battery connections. So I decided why wait and jumped into this one.
So I decided to rebuild the Sherman! (My only Sherman, once belonging to a CanAm RC Tank Club member, Kyle).

The magnetic mounts and basic gutting was already in place.
But I removed the plexiglass plate installed as well as the copious amounts of silicone sealant holding the plate in.

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First thing, my good buddy DGSSelkirk installed a set of Mato adjustable idlers onto the hull. Thanks Dean.
Next Sherman, I'll do it myself. (Cause If this works as nice as I hope, I'll likely end up with 3 of them...)

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Keeping the HL Blue's in the tank. Being mainly a plastic tank means it will be light and I want to see this thing run

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The cleaned up and epoxied chassis hull. Took 4oz of mixed epoxy to fill the entire lower hull. (Under the motors as well.)
N.B.: Make sure to plug all the small holes or use thick epoxy mixture. I had about 1/2 oz leak out through the front holes by the bogeys. What a PITA to clean.

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3D printed Clark TK-60S tray with risers and fan cut outs (Offset space for battery.)

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Twin cooling fans (will be replaced with 6V versions for higher air flow). One for the FETs, the other for the audio amplifier heat sink.
To be powered when the entire vehicle is powered up.

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Showing the position of the fans related to the TK-60 board.

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First Print is a Perfect fit... Debating if I want to make the tray into a removable piece (Velcro base/screw down, or permanently mounted...
If permanent, I'll need to find a different fan mount system for replacements.

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Showing the proposed location of the main power switch and the receiver (right side sponson).

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The dilemma... Try out the Twin 5W speakers and add in a volume control potentiometer

OR

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Squeeze in the 15W Speaker and run it at 11 all the time! Volume control is for sissies!

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Showing Battery placement when final assembly will be finished.

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Battery and all lower hull wiring will be for the most part even with the base of the hull sponsons.
Old 06-01-2020, 07:31 PM
  #2  
ksoc
 
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Nice job!. I like how you use 3D parts to clean it up.

One comment, Volume control is when it's on your workbench, at 2 am. If no one cares, let er rip!
Old 06-02-2020, 01:54 AM
  #3  
Crius
 
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The thing I like about volume control is being able to turn down the manufactured sounds so that I can hear what's going on with the rest of the tank. If something is hanging up in the drivetrain or something like that. It's also very convenient for going from outdoor volume levels to indoor volume levels. But, to each his own so if you don't like volume control, don't use it, Just Let Her Fly.
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ksoc (06-02-2020)
Old 06-02-2020, 07:58 AM
  #4  
Tankster
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If you enjoy making technical upgrades I highly recommend using your radio to adjust your volume. I use one of the potentiometers on my QX7 and it is super handy.
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ksoc (06-02-2020)
Old 06-07-2020, 07:20 PM
  #5  
Jarlath
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A pair of small M2 screws to hold the power switch frame into place. Had to remove a bogie to install.

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2nd gen fan/TK-60/Battery compartment tray epoxied into place. As well as the new angled speaker box.

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Fans in place on new tray. New retaining method. Zip ties. Those will allow for replacements if a fan fails.
Yes those are bolt on tie-down bars that are screwed into the tray itself. Will allow for very clean routing in the lower hull.

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Angled 63mm 15W speaker box with a mounting point for a standard potentiometer volume control.
Only 2 screws in place so far as the other two will secure a speaker grill guard (maybe use all four...)

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TK-60 board installed. Drive motor connections installed.

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A close up of the speaker wire routing. Using the bars to ensure clean routing.
Bars were added to the design to keep the tray print simpler. Plus can be used to mount other items.

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The twin fans with the TK-60 board. One will blow across the FET's, while the other blows on the Sound Amp heat sink.
There is also a gap of 3-4mm below the board to allow air to flow across it as well which the fans are positioned to do.

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Showing the basic overall layout with the power switch frame installed. Need to still finish speaker connection to TK-60.
Install the volume control. Complete the power circuit with fan tie-in (waiting for silicone sheathed wire).

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Deciding which way I'll have batteries mounted. Cable across speaker...

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Leaning to this way with power cable across the front.
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ksoc (06-08-2020)
Old 06-08-2020, 08:07 AM
  #6  
MAUS45
 
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Nice upgrades!!!
Old 06-10-2020, 05:47 PM
  #7  
RichJohnson
 
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Nice work.
Old 06-11-2020, 03:01 AM
  #8  
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Excellent work. Just yesterday I got a 76 mm Sherman in the mail and you're giving me ideas already.
Old 06-22-2020, 03:26 PM
  #9  
Jarlath
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OK. Finally got my soft silicone 18 AWG wire in to complete the power cables (Battery & Switch)
And of course I spent the last CAN-AM battleday doing Sherman surgery. Which is not unexpected, and was a nice change from the hustle and bustle & home.

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Speaker Cover installed. Volume control installed. Power jumper created and installed.


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Since this unit does not have a smoker, nor Flash LED/HID. The wiring will be sparse to the turret. Recoil, TBU, and IR Emitter


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The tightly restrained wiring for the fans and the power leads. Soldered the fan +ves together and then to the main power switch. -ves were spliced into the main negative cable.
Power switches on, fans turn. No receiver brown outs, etc...



Now to program the Clark board (Recoil direction, removal of track recoil, etc....)

Last edited by Jarlath; 06-22-2020 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Fixing YT links

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