MAUS45

Looks Great!!!

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

So the big day is here and "Cougar" made its debut on the DAK field with great results initially but I did have some teething issues to overcome. First my recoil began not firing. It works but the wiring seems to get bound or shorted. Need to redo the spaghetti control to make sure my wires are take care of. Second the magnetic top came loose on two occasions and needs another physical connection to make it stay put.

Now, for the second time I have broken a track link. Fairly heavy use but nothing overly dramatic and pop... right on the mold seem again.

Another Sheridan on the field had no track problems and was a tough opponent all around so there is promise there when it gets dialed in!

SERVUS

How much tension on the tracks was the other Sheridan? The same
maybe you have a bad batch of tracks trust me there are some bad things you see in the kits quality wise.
not all the components are manufactured in Japan eg can motors China possible the tracks have been assembled in China ?

On the 2a6 the 540 can motors say made in japan on the m1a2 abram surprise made in China.

So Tamiya is out sourcing in China.

Contact your Tamiya agent positive they will send replacements.

Fsttanks

Good to hear you had a mostly successful first battle day with your Sheridan.

The other Sheridan I understand runs slightly powered down to ~6 volts with custom Li-ion batteries. I run mine powered down with the use of dual rate settings which has helped greatly reduce track breakage issues. If you are using a 7.4v Lipo or Li-ion you are running peak volts of ~8.4. That’s a lot for the tracks, heck even 7.2v out of a NiMH battery is too much power on tap for the tracks to handle reliability.

I had the same turret popping open issues. After mine passed its tuning phase I used a small amount of RVT to secure the turret top on. Easy to remove and can’t be seen on my tank.

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

Im using and old Tamiya NiCad 7.2 that fits better in the chassis and honestly I never ran the thing flat out. The break happened in a rough surface with a lot of forwards and back "pop up" shooting on a slight incline. 2 down from original set, 4 to go....

Fsttanks

From what I have experienced that sounds about right for when they break most often. Start stop, start stop type driving. I don’t see as many breaks (2 out of the 10 so far) at low crawling speeds or once the tank is up to medium cursing or *sprint speeds. So I have become really easy on the “up throttle” during starts (forward or back) even with reduced power. I know the other Sheridan that was at the battle has a drive with a rather soft touch on the throttle, combined with lower voltage battery being used has had very little issues with tracks.

*At sprint speeds the issue has been the track pins starting to walk out. I stop and check them after every two or three long sprints and this help catch pin walk out issues before they cause breaks.

I have my idlers set two “forward” then stock recommendation. Mainly do to track “stretch” which set in rather quickly. This seems for me to be the sweet spot with my “set up” and Sheridan driving style.

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

An update to the saga..... Had the tank fine tuned and running like a top and it made it through three battles without a hitch. The fourth took a sideways turn when the middle bogie on the left side came off.... seems I forgot to loc-tite the bogie bolts. Tank ran fine with the bogie missing. After the battle ended I was transiting to new start location when the track split again... same story, right along the mold line.... oy.

SERVUS

Looks good you did a great job on it

SERVUS

Looking foward with metal tracks i hope Carson makes them this year was talking about it .