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Another Armoured Models SU-152

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Another Armoured Models SU-152

Old 10-16-2020, 11:51 PM
  #1  
tankme
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Default Another Armoured Models SU-152

Finally getting close to finishing this thing so I thought I'd start a build thread. It is a highly modified Armoured Models SU-152 conversion kit on a Heng Long KV-1 upper hull and a Taigen/Torro lower hull. I got the KV-1 off Ebay and the original seller tried to upgrade with the Taigen lower hull. It was a pretty unsuccessful effort as they were trying to use Taigen gearboxes meant for Taigen sprockets with HL sprockets. The Taigen tracks also didn't mesh with the HL plastic sprockets that came with it.


And the fun began with a lot of cutting and removal of stuff that didn't belong on an SU-152..


Decided to try some new gearboxes. These are the Heng Long CNC slow 1/56 ratio gearboxes with the shorter 49mm shaft to fit the Taigen sprockets. The HL KV sprockets would need the longer 59mm shafts.


Upclose of the gearboxes mounted. It's a very tight fit. The screws holding them in come in from underneath. Had to drill some holes as the Taigen suspension interfered with one of the mounting holes. Luckily they have multiple tapped hole options on the gearboxes. You can't even hear the gearboxes when running the tank. Everything is just mocked up for the initial motion tests.


Some nice Russian KV'esk track droop. Metal late style wheel type with bearings. Metal tracks, metal sprockets, and metal idlers with bearings.

Last edited by tankme; 10-17-2020 at 12:18 AM. Reason: additional comments
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:05 AM
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Scratch built grab bars, start of the axe mount that needs to be finished, flame cut detail, weld lines added, tank straps fabricated, and smoothed out the blockiness of the periscopes.


Fabricated missing lifting eyes, added cleaning kit, added brass tow rope mount, and added some slight texture to the casemate to emulate rolled steel look.


I removed the bolt detail from the leading edge as the SUs didn't have it. Drilled mounting holes for the extended fenders. Still not sure if I'm going to add them or not. Reprofiled the front armor plate as it flattens out as it meets the casemate. I also changed the way the gun mount is mounted. I removed a lip from top armor plates that dropped down on top of the gun mount because it looked odd and made the mount not look right. So the gun mount is now higher than the kit calls for. That created all kinds of problem with the front armor plate. Add that issue with the fact the kit doesn't take into consideration that the front armor flattens out and the casemate fitting took forever. I reprofilled the gun mount as the lower rounded area that meets the front plate was not molded in the kit.


Antenna added, handle added on small hatch, and added small hatch on the large hatch.


New barrel procured. It's much better than the provided barrel. Need to rework the stock gun mount to get the new barrel to fit. That is in progress.


Reprofiled the front fenders, added the new backing plates behind the tow hooks, added the canvas rain cover mounting loops, added the canvas rain cover stowage loops on the fender, and textured the gun mount.

Last edited by tankme; 10-17-2020 at 12:29 AM. Reason: corrections
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:14 AM
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Rear deck details. Simulated flipping of the engine cover as the SU-152 cover opened the opposite way of the KV-1. Fabricated the hatch prop rod, fabricated the storage bin, and added weld lines.


Added the escape hatch handles, fabricated the spare track mounts, reworked all of the fender supports, added the Aber KV-1 grills. The old 3D printed strap detail on the fuel tanks was removed on my lathe as it was way out of scale.


Thinking of mounting the tow cables like this only with the clevises attached.


Upclose of the reworked fuel tank mounts that move them to the outside of the skirts. I reprofiled them to hang over. It's not perfect, but close to how the real tanks mount. Used a steel nut to thread onto the brass rod soldered to the strap.


Is she perfect? Hell no, but good enough for me at this point. Next steps: finish mounting the gun, finish the electronics, paint, and weathering.

Last edited by tankme; 10-17-2020 at 12:32 AM. Reason: added comment
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Old 10-17-2020, 01:23 AM
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Oh, that looks very perfect to me. I love Russian tanks... great save!
Old 10-17-2020, 08:16 AM
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Really nice details Tankme. The aluminum barrel is excellent! I like those gearboxes as well. Are you going to make the gun recoil?
Very nice model.
B
Old 10-17-2020, 08:33 AM
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Yes the barrel will recoil. The inner diameter of the recoil mechanism provided with the conversion is too small for the new barrel and there is not enough material to make it larger without cracking the 3D printed material. The barrel did come with a small sleeve about an inch long, but that won't work well with the way the elevation/traverse is setup on this kit. So since I'm used to working with PVC I have some 3/4" PVC pipe that will be put on the lathe to increase it's interior diameter to house the new barrel. I am picking up a 7/8" reduced shank drill bit this weekend to put in the lathe. I did a test fit after using a cone bit on the PVC and the barrel slides nicely with that diameter. I will PVC glue the bottom pivot point on and the servo mounts to mimic the original design. Those will be made from some extra PVC sheet bits I have laying around. PVC glued stuff is more than strong enough to support the barrel.
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:40 AM
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Impressive. Most impressive. Obi-Wan has taught you well.

I can't wait to see video of this in action to see how those gearboxes perform. From what you said so far I'm very interested in them. They look like they would fit in a Panzer 3.

Great work so far, I'm really looking forward to seeing the rest.
Old 10-17-2020, 12:52 PM
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Crius, I don't have a Panzer 3, but HL has a compatibility chart. Looks like the part number for the Panzer 3 is 3849-1. It would be the same set I'm using in this SU-152. I bought them through Toucan Hobby, but they are not cheap: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...65694c4dWKQdXy

They are however cheaper than the PDSGB from DKLM RC.


Old 10-30-2020, 08:55 AM
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Man you have done outstanding work on this . Hats off from me
Old 10-30-2020, 09:10 PM
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tankme
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Thanks, if only I can paint it now and make it look as good as yours. As an update I'm still fine tuning the traverse and elevation. Worked a little on the recoil system. I think it will be ready soon if I can get my work to stop calling after hours...
Old 10-31-2020, 04:05 PM
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I got the new traverse and recoil mechanism sorted so I decided to put up a little vid of it. Once I get it re-installed I will get a vid of the tank actually running. I also demonstrated the Heng Long CNC gearboxes since I don't know a lot of folks that have tried them out. Enjoy...

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Old 11-01-2020, 04:04 AM
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Wow, very well done. I like the milliput work.
Old 11-14-2020, 11:09 AM
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So now that I'm finally going to throw some primer on this thing I have a few questions for the group. I've never used a Clark TK-40SP board before and never built a battler off of that controller. I bought a high power IR emitter from: https://dakrctank.com/shop/ir-emitter/. Do I need to use a resistor inline when connecting it to the Clark board? I have the same question with the flash LED. I thought most LEDs were 5V. The only issue is I can't find any info as to what the Clark board needs for those two ports (J1-IR and J3-Flash). It doesn't seem to say it on the Clark site. I don't want to connect the LEDs and have them go pop due to the wrong voltage. Just some last naked build pics to add here:


Mantlet rain cover fabbed out of brass sheet. Hinges are a little oversized, but I wanted to make sure they would stand up to R/C use.


Battle system, volume, and main power switch hidden under the hatch.


Apple mounted.

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