Help with Tamiya Pershing
10-25-2020, 07:23 AM
#1
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Help with Tamiya Pershing
Hi, I am new to RC. I have a Finespec 2.4G Transmitter set to Tank A and an M26 Pershing T26E3. I cannot get any of the 10 function buttons to work. Using the trim, joystick method I can get the Main gun to fire once in a blue moon, but never the machine gun or other functions, lights etc. Also is there a way to put the tank fwd/back and turn on one joystick abd the current rotation barrel up and down on the other?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
10-25-2020, 09:16 AM
#2
The Tamiya DMD only uses the 2 sticks, your 10 extra buttons have no function (unless you want to connect additional devices to your receiver). To get a Tamiya to function like a Heng Long you simply swap the plugs for turret traverse and steering around in the receiver.
10-25-2020, 10:04 AM
#3
The Finespec radio is really designed for the modern Tamiya tanks such as the M1 Abrams, Type 10, Leopard 2a6 or Sheridan which all have enhanced features built in to their stock electronics.
The Finespec radio buttons are pre-programmed for specific functions by Tamiya, albeit for the modern tanks. Since the Pershing isn't a modern tank, I think it may be likely one can adapt the radio to fire your cannon and mg with a bit of effort. I suggest you review this excellent video on the Finespec radio by user "PitStain" here.
As to setting up the drive functions on one stick and the turret functions on the other, follow Ex Pat Tanker's excellent advice and just move the appropriate plugs (from the DMD) into different slots on the receiver until you get the functions you want. If you are uncertain, I suggest getting a cheap servo and plug it into the receiver to help identify what each channel does. Just don't unplug the rudder channel, as that's the channel that provides the power to the receiver.
The Finespec radio buttons are pre-programmed for specific functions by Tamiya, albeit for the modern tanks. Since the Pershing isn't a modern tank, I think it may be likely one can adapt the radio to fire your cannon and mg with a bit of effort. I suggest you review this excellent video on the Finespec radio by user "PitStain" here.
As to setting up the drive functions on one stick and the turret functions on the other, follow Ex Pat Tanker's excellent advice and just move the appropriate plugs (from the DMD) into different slots on the receiver until you get the functions you want. If you are uncertain, I suggest getting a cheap servo and plug it into the receiver to help identify what each channel does. Just don't unplug the rudder channel, as that's the channel that provides the power to the receiver.
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Ex_Pat_Tanker (10-25-2020)
10-25-2020, 01:41 PM
#4
Tip, setting up drive functions:
The receiver slot 1 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 4
The receiver slot 2 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 3
The receiver slot 3 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 2
The receiver slot 4 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 1
Reserving receiver slots 2 and 3 is an option.
As stated above by others, a better “plug and play” approach for the very old Pershing kit DMD MFU controllers is a Futaba 2.4 rc 4 channel radio with two self centering sticks.
If in the USA: You can get a Futaba 2,4 rc radio with “a self centering left stick kit” (easy DIY install) from the AAF Museum, call them or go online, and that is/was what many USA rc tankers use/used with the Tamiya Pershing RC Tank Kit over the years.
The receiver slot 1 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 4
The receiver slot 2 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 3
The receiver slot 3 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 2
The receiver slot 4 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 1
Reserving receiver slots 2 and 3 is an option.
As stated above by others, a better “plug and play” approach for the very old Pershing kit DMD MFU controllers is a Futaba 2.4 rc 4 channel radio with two self centering sticks.
If in the USA: You can get a Futaba 2,4 rc radio with “a self centering left stick kit” (easy DIY install) from the AAF Museum, call them or go online, and that is/was what many USA rc tankers use/used with the Tamiya Pershing RC Tank Kit over the years.
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 10-25-2020 at 01:46 PM.
10-25-2020, 10:34 PM
#5
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Tip, setting up drive functions:
The receiver slot 1 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 4
The receiver slot 2 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 3
The receiver slot 3 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 2
The receiver slot 4 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 1
Reserving receiver slots 2 and 3 is an option.
As stated above by others, a better “plug and play” approach for the very old Pershing kit DMD MFU controllers is a Futaba 2.4 rc 4 channel radio with two self centering sticks.
If in the USA: You can get a Futaba 2,4 rc radio with “a self centering left stick kit” (easy DIY install) from the AAF Museum, call them or go online, and that is/was what many USA rc tankers use/used with the Tamiya Pershing RC Tank Kit over the years.
The receiver slot 1 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 4
The receiver slot 2 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 3
The receiver slot 3 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 2
The receiver slot 4 should have the DMD MFU lead marked channel 1
Reserving receiver slots 2 and 3 is an option.
As stated above by others, a better “plug and play” approach for the very old Pershing kit DMD MFU controllers is a Futaba 2.4 rc 4 channel radio with two self centering sticks.
If in the USA: You can get a Futaba 2,4 rc radio with “a self centering left stick kit” (easy DIY install) from the AAF Museum, call them or go online, and that is/was what many USA rc tankers use/used with the Tamiya Pershing RC Tank Kit over the years.
I might get a Futaba and save the FineSpec for a modern tank.
Can you let me know what Model Futuba and where to get the joystick self centering kit?
10-25-2020, 10:37 PM
#6
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The Tamiya DMD only uses the 2 sticks, your 10 extra buttons have no function (unless you want to connect additional devices to your receiver). To get a Tamiya to function like a Heng Long you simply swap the plugs for turret traverse and steering around in the receiver.
I will try the swap and see if the features (guns) work.
10-26-2020, 04:51 AM
#9
AAF Museum Futaba 4YF Transmitter – 4-Channel FHSS RC Radio System:
https://shop.aaftankmuseum.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=4YF
For the self center transmitter left stick kit call or email:
If you have any questions please call Natasha or Karen at 434-836-5323. We appreciate your support and look forward to helping you with anything you need.
Futaba parts required:
a. Qty one, Item HSP78901, Description 1M10A10401, ST-53 Swing Arm
b. Qty one, Item HSP67450, Description 8M00F01001, ST-411 Spring
Another vendor: Pre COVID-19 source. Try to Order the Left Side Stick Centering Kit; Contact at:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive
Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
1-217-398-0007
For the self center transmitter left stick kit call or email:
If you have any questions please call Natasha or Karen at 434-836-5323. We appreciate your support and look forward to helping you with anything you need.
Futaba parts required:
a. Qty one, Item HSP78901, Description 1M10A10401, ST-53 Swing Arm
b. Qty one, Item HSP67450, Description 8M00F01001, ST-411 Spring
Another vendor: Pre COVID-19 source. Try to Order the Left Side Stick Centering Kit; Contact at:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive
Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
1-217-398-0007
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 10-26-2020 at 05:30 AM.
10-26-2020, 07:31 AM
#10
Our colleague John brought us a link,
I am afraid that is exactly the kind of a radio that nobody should never, ever, get, or pay more than 10 euros free shipping for it. Take a look at it:
Fortunately or not is not 1980 anymore, so for almost what you pay for it, you can get today this:
Some of the reasons of why to get a decent radio are already explained in my link, two posts above.
Anyway If you are not willing to face a radio with so many features and you are 100% happy with the the most elemental functions, then, you can get this for 20 euros at hobbyking with both sticks self centering
And you will save 100 bucks in the process.
Of course there are tons of radios in the middle of those two extremes, and almost all of them is a much better deal than the aged futaba 4 ch radios.
I am afraid that is exactly the kind of a radio that nobody should never, ever, get, or pay more than 10 euros free shipping for it. Take a look at it:
Fortunately or not is not 1980 anymore, so for almost what you pay for it, you can get today this:
Some of the reasons of why to get a decent radio are already explained in my link, two posts above.
Anyway If you are not willing to face a radio with so many features and you are 100% happy with the the most elemental functions, then, you can get this for 20 euros at hobbyking with both sticks self centering
And you will save 100 bucks in the process.
Of course there are tons of radios in the middle of those two extremes, and almost all of them is a much better deal than the aged futaba 4 ch radios.
10-26-2020, 08:09 AM
#11
That T6 is actually a pretty decent radio. I've had several of them and if you have an aftermarket board like a Clark or an IBU, in an airsoft tank, it's really all the radio that you need. It gives very good control for the price and the only thing I don't like about it is that you have to buy the programming cable in order to change Servo Direction. A step up from that is the Turnigy or FlySky I6, another great radio for a decent price, fifty bucks or less, and that one does not need a programming cable to program the servos and assign switches. My favorite is the FlySky I-10, easiest radio to use that I've ever found, but everybody has their own individual favorite and opinions on what is the best radio are as widely varied as RC tankers.
10-26-2020, 09:40 AM
#12
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Thank You Rad,
Very Informative. I am told that my basic problem is the electronics in the Pershing will not support the buttons on newer radios like the Finespec. The problem is getting the trim/joystick movements to work reliably. Sometimes the gun works, sometimes the machine gun. If a resetup the limits on the joystick I get different functions to work but not all. I am thinking the Futuba might be more reliable because I would not need to do the setup.
Tony
Very Informative. I am told that my basic problem is the electronics in the Pershing will not support the buttons on newer radios like the Finespec. The problem is getting the trim/joystick movements to work reliably. Sometimes the gun works, sometimes the machine gun. If a resetup the limits on the joystick I get different functions to work but not all. I am thinking the Futuba might be more reliable because I would not need to do the setup.
Tony
10-26-2020, 10:09 AM
#13
Thank You Rad,
Very Informative. I am told that my basic problem is the electronics in the Pershing will not support the buttons on newer radios like the Finespec. The problem is getting the trim/joystick movements to work reliably. Sometimes the gun works, sometimes the machine gun. If a resetup the limits on the joystick I get different functions to work but not all. I am thinking the Futuba might be more reliable because I would not need to do the setup.
Tony
Very Informative. I am told that my basic problem is the electronics in the Pershing will not support the buttons on newer radios like the Finespec. The problem is getting the trim/joystick movements to work reliably. Sometimes the gun works, sometimes the machine gun. If a resetup the limits on the joystick I get different functions to work but not all. I am thinking the Futuba might be more reliable because I would not need to do the setup.
Tony
In fact you can forget about those buttons and just use the sticks for driving and all the extra functions, just recalibrate the tamiya units as per the manual, but instead of moving the stick to the end points, move them about a 75%. Once calibrated, when you move the stick to the end position fast, it will trigger the desired functions. Done, you dont need to get any other radio, you just need it to propper calibrate the tamiya electronics.
But of course any true programmable radio will let you asign any switch to any function. I used to have tamiya electronics and I shooted the cannon flicking a swich, the machine gun with another switch, and lights with a third switch, as shown here with more modern electronics:
Or even here, in this small video, each sound is triggered by a different switch. All those sounds are in only one channel, that is something that you will never be able to do with those futaba and finespecs radios. (voices translated in the video description)
But as I said, any radio will work and for the pershing you just need to recalibrate the DMD-MFU units. And nope, Futaba is not more reliable, it is just more expensive. You are paying the brand that once was very good but slept since then.
Hope it helps.
10-26-2020, 12:39 PM
#14
But as I said, any radio will work and for the pershing you just need to recalibrate the DMD-MFU units. And nope, Futaba is not more reliable, it is just more expensive. You are paying the brand that once was very good but slept since the
Hope it helps.
—
Hi Rad, ...no one cares dude. John
Hope it helps.
—
Hi Rad, ...no one cares dude. John
10-26-2020, 01:08 PM
#15
But as I said, any radio will work and for the pershing you just need to recalibrate the DMD-MFU units. And nope, Futaba is not more reliable, it is just more expensive. You are paying the brand that once was very good but slept since the
Hope it helps.
—
Hi Rad, ...no one cares dude. John
Hope it helps.
—
Hi Rad, ...no one cares dude. John
Even if I just helped only one guy in the world, it was well worth it.
10-26-2020, 10:12 PM
#17
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To all those that helped, Thank You
My problem is solved.
I did both a recalibration of the MFU, did the channel swap (swaped the plugs at the reciever) as well as glued the turrent gear. I put small marks on the turrent and tank so the I could power rotate the turrent to aligh the notches on the turrent for removal. The channel swap worked so I have tank movement on the left and turrent/gun movement on the right. Great! While testing this to see if the swap affected how the trim/stick worked I discoved if I moved the stick and the trim at the same time machine gun and the main gun functions worked. I had been moving the trim first then the stick quickly. This was not in the instructions as far as I can tell. Every thing working but the lights which I never expect to use anyway. This was a build for my grandson. I can look into the lights later, I plan on puting in a DPDT switch so I can charge the battery without removing the turrent. Your comments will come in useful if I build another tank, but I have half a dozen builds on my bench now, including the BIG titantic with the option kit.
Thanks Again
My problem is solved.
I did both a recalibration of the MFU, did the channel swap (swaped the plugs at the reciever) as well as glued the turrent gear. I put small marks on the turrent and tank so the I could power rotate the turrent to aligh the notches on the turrent for removal. The channel swap worked so I have tank movement on the left and turrent/gun movement on the right. Great! While testing this to see if the swap affected how the trim/stick worked I discoved if I moved the stick and the trim at the same time machine gun and the main gun functions worked. I had been moving the trim first then the stick quickly. This was not in the instructions as far as I can tell. Every thing working but the lights which I never expect to use anyway. This was a build for my grandson. I can look into the lights later, I plan on puting in a DPDT switch so I can charge the battery without removing the turrent. Your comments will come in useful if I build another tank, but I have half a dozen builds on my bench now, including the BIG titantic with the option kit.
Thanks Again
10-26-2020, 10:55 PM
#18
To all those that helped, Thank You
My problem is solved.
I did both a recalibration of the MFU, did the channel swap (swaped the plugs at the reciever) as well as glued the turrent gear. I put small marks on the turrent and tank so the I could power rotate the turrent to aligh the notches on the turrent for removal. The channel swap worked so I have tank movement on the left and turrent/gun movement on the right. Great! While testing this to see if the swap affected how the trim/stick worked I discoved if I moved the stick and the trim at the same time machine gun and the main gun functions worked. I had been moving the trim first then the stick quickly. This was not in the instructions as far as I can tell. Every thing working but the lights which I never expect to use anyway. This was a build for my grandson. I can look into the lights later, I plan on puting in a DPDT switch so I can charge the battery without removing the turrent. Your comments will come in useful if I build another tank, but I have half a dozen builds on my bench now, including the BIG titantic with the option kit.
Thanks Again
My problem is solved.
I did both a recalibration of the MFU, did the channel swap (swaped the plugs at the reciever) as well as glued the turrent gear. I put small marks on the turrent and tank so the I could power rotate the turrent to aligh the notches on the turrent for removal. The channel swap worked so I have tank movement on the left and turrent/gun movement on the right. Great! While testing this to see if the swap affected how the trim/stick worked I discoved if I moved the stick and the trim at the same time machine gun and the main gun functions worked. I had been moving the trim first then the stick quickly. This was not in the instructions as far as I can tell. Every thing working but the lights which I never expect to use anyway. This was a build for my grandson. I can look into the lights later, I plan on puting in a DPDT switch so I can charge the battery without removing the turrent. Your comments will come in useful if I build another tank, but I have half a dozen builds on my bench now, including the BIG titantic with the option kit.
Thanks Again
But if you like the trim way, lets do it that way, lol.
10-27-2020, 08:26 AM
#19
Sounds like you have things well in hand, but I have to say that charging the battery inside the tank is a very bad idea. I know some guys do it, but I know guys that have lost their tanks that way to fire. Most nimh batteries are perfectly safe and no problem, but with a piece that expensive, why would you take the chance? I never charge my batteries inside the tank, even my nimh batteries go into a Kevlar bag when they're charging. I've never had any incident while charging a battery, but I always obey all the safety rules and hopefully I never will have an incident charging a battery. In the end, it's your tank and you can do it anyway you want to, but I'm sure there are many others here who will agree that charging a battery inside a tank is always a bad idea.
01-11-2021, 07:14 PM
#21
While testing this to see if the swap affected how the trim/stick worked I discoved if I moved the stick and the trim at the same time machine gun and the main gun functions worked. I had been moving the trim first then the stick quickly. This was not in the instructions as far as I can tell. Every thing working but the lights which I never expect to use anyway. This was a build for my grandson.
OpenTX capable transmitters, like my FrSky Horus X12S, can be programmed fairly easily to deal with the lack of analogue trimmers on modern transmitters like can be seen here with my ( third-party upgraded ) Tamiya #56020 Leopard 2A7+ youtu.be/VNP6Dstz6wc - I also have another video somewhat explaining the general concept behind it: youtu.be/Xl5bbwVtAXk - Should technically be applicable to any dual rate capable remote. If all fails Painless360 on YouTube has an excellent playlist of OpenTX dedicate Videos.
Speakin of Transmitters... Team Blacksheep also makes an OpenTX capable and quite affordable Tango 2 being somewhat reminiscent of a Gamepad - Maybe something of interest to your Grandson due to the smaller than usual size? IDK...
OpenTX used to be kinda gimmicky overkill due to the barely used capabilities but ever since I added a 2-Axis Stabilizer to my L2A7+ ( the first linked video ) it pretty much saved my bacon with getting that 3rd party board to work in harmony with the rest of the DMD-T07 - The Developer of that board apparently expected for a user to also use their particular Transmitters that deal with the issues I experienced in their but thanks to the programmability of OpenTX I've been able to solve it myself - Just had to dig a little deeper than usual 😁
