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Taignen v3 gearboxes thoughts

Old 11-19-2020, 08:33 PM
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LasvoochTheTiger1Ace
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Default Taignen v3 gearboxes thoughts

Any thoughts on the new taigen v3 gearboxes. Are they better than the 4:1 v2s? I suppose what I am trying to ask is what tanks do these gearboxes work best in.

Last edited by LasvoochTheTiger1Ace; 11-20-2020 at 07:06 AM.
Old 11-20-2020, 01:58 PM
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The V2 to V3 jump in performance is not near as big as the V1 to V2. If you have a V2 then it isn't much of an upgrade compared to the previous generation. The V3s also all have a 76:1 ratio versus the 39:1 (3:1) and 90:1 (4:1) we offer now. They are a bit beefier than the previous gearbox designs, all come with 390 motors (including the Sherman variant), have a built in magnetic dust cover, but are a bit louder due to more reduction gears.
IMO, if you have the V2s, stick with them. The V3s are great, but not a big upgrade from V2 to V3. V1 to V3 is a nice upgrade but you also need to keep in mind the gear ratios as well. If you want a fast tank then sticking with the V2 gearboxes so you can get the faster 39:1 (aka 3:1) might be a good option for something like a P3 while the 76:1 of the V3 might be good for a medium tank, while the V2's 90:1 (aka the 4:1) is better suited for the slowest of tanks.

V1: offered in 39:1 (aka 3:1), 90:1 (aka 4:1) with 380 motors
V2: offered in 39:1 (aka 3:1), 90:1 (aka 4:1) with 380 motors
V3: offered in 76:1 (aka 7:1) with 390 motors

Old 11-21-2020, 08:45 PM
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Wow thanks Erik. Thats a lot of info but pretty much everything that i wanted coming from this thread! Definitly think I will pick up some v2 4:1 (I have a tiger 1). It is nice though to have the medium tank options for the panzer 4, sherman, and pershing. Speaking of pershing, Gary i bet these would be great for your pershing build!
Old 11-22-2020, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by LasvoochTheTiger1Ace View Post
Wow thanks Erik... Definitly think I will pick up some v2 4:1 (I have a tiger 1).
I told you which gear boxes to buy back on July 1st. Glad to see that finally sunk in.
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Old 11-22-2020, 01:01 PM
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If my searches online are correct, RPM of the motors is different depending. This would also have an effect on the tank (of course, an 8 pound tank vs an 15 pound also will). The 380 motors seem to be 18,000rpm, while the 390 motors are 25,000rpm??

If that's correct, then a stock Sherman with 3:1 and 380 motors replaced with v3 with 390 motors would be moving (39/76) X (25/18)= 0.71 times that of stock. Is that correct?

Last edited by H2Ohaze; 11-22-2020 at 01:04 PM.
Old 11-22-2020, 01:49 PM
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That is if the 390s fit in a Sherman. Need to allow 52mm for the length of the 390 to ensure it will fit in the chassis.
Old 11-22-2020, 02:41 PM
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They don't positively state Sherman v3 GB=390 motors--> will fit...but it's implied on Taigen's website now- generally for all the v3 GB.

Also of course, I didn't launch into the topic of torque. I did mention tank weight. That could change how the tank responds to the stick as well. I can't just say, oh, the Sherman is going to run at 71% of it's stock speed, and that's all there is to it.

But I'm glad I can finally slow my Sherman down a bit now without surgery. It's my only tank that I couldn't get responding to stick good... preferred bit slower.

Edit: Erik's post above states that the v3 for the Sherman does have 390's.

Last edited by H2Ohaze; 11-22-2020 at 03:02 PM.
Old 11-22-2020, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Crius View Post
I told you which gear boxes to buy back on July 1st. Glad to see that finally sunk in.
Lol Definitly should have listened to you the first time! I am currently saving for other projects i have going on in my life so the geraboxes will have to wait (unless, of course there is a deal i cannot resist). Right now, the v1's that pull the tank now are fine and will have to work. I just finished my paint job on the tank today. I fixed the rust and made the tank look as though dirt and grime are covering it. I am trying to go for a mid battle, southern, mid-late Fall, Kursk camoflauge (my favorite wwii battle) and I so far think I have succeded. I just need the decals and a few of the new components Imex is selling now (new 210 Maybach sounds, textured hoses, ect.) then my tanks exterioir will be complete. I am still trying to find a way to add my metal tow cables to the tank as well as a ladder hanging on the side.
Old 11-23-2020, 07:00 AM
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Sorry I just realized i went completely off topic. Just excited for my new addition to the paintjob!
Old 11-23-2020, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by H2Ohaze View Post
If my searches online are correct, RPM of the motors is different depending. This would also have an effect on the tank (of course, an 8 pound tank vs an 15 pound also will). The 380 motors seem to be 18,000rpm, while the 390 motors are 25,000rpm??

If that's correct, then a stock Sherman with 3:1 and 380 motors replaced with v3 with 390 motors would be moving (39/76) X (25/18)= 0.71 times that of stock. Is that correct?
I was told 18k RPM for the newer 390 motors too, but I'll confirm that just in case. I'll have to get a tach here just so I can verify myself.
Originally Posted by tankme View Post
That is if the 390s fit in a Sherman. Need to allow 52mm for the length of the 390 to ensure it will fit in the chassis.
Yes, new ones will work. Different shape which allows the motor to sink in closer.
Originally Posted by H2Ohaze View Post
They don't positively state Sherman v3 GB=390 motors--> will fit...but it's implied on Taigen's website now- generally for all the v3 GB.

Also of course, I didn't launch into the topic of torque. I did mention tank weight. That could change how the tank responds to the stick as well. I can't just say, oh, the Sherman is going to run at 71% of it's stock speed, and that's all there is to it.

But I'm glad I can finally slow my Sherman down a bit now without surgery. It's my only tank that I couldn't get responding to stick good... preferred bit slower.

Edit: Erik's post above states that the v3 for the Sherman does have 390's.
Yes, all tanks are covered now except for the T-34/85 which has its own special gearbox. Oh and weights just in case you were wondering:
V2 Steel 3:1 - 529g
V2 Steel 4:1 - 625g
V3 Steel 7:1 - 626g + 84g mount plates = 710g total
Old 11-24-2020, 09:58 AM
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Great info here. How can I tell which gear boxes I have that came in a all metal Leo2 that's about 2 years old. Are there any markings, serial #'s or distinguished features to differentiate between a V1 or V2?

Old 11-24-2020, 10:33 AM
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V1 has a bearing on the axle shaft only, V2 has bearings on all the shafts for all the reduction gears. As for the difference between 3:1 and 4:1, I have a video that explains all that so let me know if you need it and I'll post it here.
Old 12-05-2020, 12:18 PM
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A followup. I have the v3 out of the box now for my Sherman 76. Haven't installed yet, but just a couple comments FWIW:

Looks sturdy. Everything's sexy black, motors too. Gearbox covers are plastic, but this may be fine. With the black covers in place it really looks stealth

The motors are 9-10 mm longer than my 44mm stock 380's for my PIII. So 54mm max to the solder tabs. Diameter same. The motors for the Sherman nest high/ low with high on the right side. They are very close to each other. I would say claustrophilly close

There are five shafts with ball bearings. These are called 7:1 GBs, and if you count the total number of gear meshes from motor to output shaft it is seven...but there are only four/five shafts that go through GB sides. One of the shafts ends in a middle flange between the outer flanges, so you see five bearings on one outer flange and four on the other. Middle flange looks like it has a BB.

First you mount adapter plates embossed R and L (also black!). Instruction sheet shows using three screws each. Then mount the GB on top, also using three screws in raised bosses in the plates. The plates have raised edges and there will be a tiny gap between GB bottom and plate top. But it looks functional. So anyway that should be twelve screws, but you only get eight in a ziplock. Either you use only two per mount operation, or dig up extra screws if you want three per. In the same center slot in the box packing as the screws, is a ziplock filled with white grease. I would have preferred either no grease shipped with or a sturdy little metal tube. The mounting plates are shipped just below the grease/ screws toward the bottom, and felt a little greasy. A quick alccohol wipe and I was happy. They'll just get greasy again anyway. The instruction sheet arrived with a central grease spot as well. But the GBs seem dry enough, of course they do get oiled/ greased anyway going in.

I don't know when I'll install, busy around here. But I look forward to the decrease in speed and experimenting with.

Last edited by H2Ohaze; 12-05-2020 at 12:36 PM.
Old 12-09-2020, 12:00 PM
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I installed the v3 GB in my Sherman 76, and now have a better idea of things. Some observations from a relatively newbie, and in some cases just my personal opinion...
The adapter plates are mounted with the six "self-tapping" screws that held down the old stock GBs, they are reused. The same holes are used. While the plates are a little thicker than the stock GB mount thickness, there is enough length for the screws to mount, and the plates are also held by a couple of locator pins. There are three taped bosses on each plate; two each will be used to mount the new GB with regular bolts. I thought the third boss would be used, but I can't see any mount hole through the gears for it. You need only four bolts, so the eight supplied is enough- I was wrong in thinking 12 were needed. See pic.

GBs barely fits. The tabs on motors have to be bent down about as far as possible. Even then, the insulation (but not bare wire) of red/black wires touches the opposite GB face, which is painted black. The black wire from right motor GB interferes just a tad with lifting up left rear GB dust cover, I have to twist cover and right GB housing away from each other to uncover gears left side. I may file down the plastic cover edge a bit. Right rear cover no prob. Nothing is shorting though.

I haven't tried removing the forward dust covers(printed with "TAIGEN") with the triangular "tranny cover" in place. I don't believe it is possible. They don't touch the tranny cover, but there is not any room to get in there to lift them off.

I ran it for only ten minutes outside, so bear that in mind, and my "newbie" thoughts:
Just the improvement I wanted over the stock 3:1 GB. Lots of control, I can start crawling, or go at a reasonable top speed. Good low end. It creeps easily, and I went up a 12% grade creeping barely moving. At full speed up incline tracks slip a bit, but that's not abnormal. Very LOUD, the gears make a racket. My personal feel on it is that this would be a good speed range for controlling a Sherman 76 tank, but my guess is I would want to leave my Tiger metal with it's stock 4:1 390.


Right plate attached with reused tapping screws, note threaded bosses in left plate.

Left gearbox packed with gears, dust covers removed. Right GB covers installed. Both GBs installed.

Sherman re-assembled. Wires touch opposite GB even with tabs bent fully; left rear dust cover has to squeeze by right motor's black wire to open. Front dust covers probably can't be removed with tranny cover on.
Old 12-09-2020, 12:15 PM
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How are they for noise?
Old 12-09-2020, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by H2Ohaze View Post
Very LOUD, the gears make a racket.
They look like Tamiya gearsets and I know my Tamiya KV-2 gears are loud also.

Old 12-09-2020, 03:48 PM
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Yes, LOUD, from what I could tell in ten minutes. I have the Ford sound card in it's not turned up to max but decent roughly at or past halfway maybe?? I could hear the gears above the card. I'm willing to live with the sound and claustrophobia at the GB for delineation in speed it gives me. Others might judge differently. Maybe custom Tx with expo would also be an approach I guess. I just did not like the stock 3:1 in there for Sherman 76, and I think I will be happy with this.
Old 12-10-2020, 03:15 PM
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Ran it for twenty more minutes. I turned the card volume up. The GB still do make some noise. But I may be unfair in calling it. The most noise, a kind of whine, comes from the tank when I am at the slowest speeds...speeds I cannot have done or at least controlled well with the stock GBs. So in a way, if I want the low speed, the whine comes with. I don't notice the noise quite as much at higher speeds.

All in all, yes, I am happy with the new movement of the Sherman 76. I do have to live with some gear noise, ok. The motors are a challenge to stuff in...less of an issue, but yes. The cost now is around $90, ouch. For me, it's worth the low speed, and there is plenty of torque too. I can creep this Sherman fore-aft by an inch or two if I want. Full speed is decent enough, but not winning any races. I think heavier tanks might be a different ballgame, esp if stock 90:1. I don't know, someone would have to try it I guess.
Old 12-10-2020, 03:37 PM
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You mite want to try this .It's not from me but others have done .
Gearset breakin in HL PZKW III
RC Tank F.A.Q.
Q: What is the best way to break in the metal gears in my Heng Long tank?

A: Here is the method I use:

1) Remove the gearboxes from the tank. It's not necessary to desolder the motors from the board.
2) Spray strong commercial cleaner/degreaser onto the gears.
3) Use a brush to clean off grease and cleaner.
4) Rinse and dry.
5) Obtain a can of medium grit lapping and grinding compound. If you can't find one, then use a good non-gel, tartar control toothpaste. However, the toothpaste will take longer and won't do as good of a job as the grinding compound.
6) Apply the grinding compound or toothpaste to all gear teeth.
7) Screw a 3mm allen bolt into the drive shaft for the drill chuck to grab onto.
8) Insert the allen bolt/drive shaft into an electric drill and run the drill at low to medium speed. Be sure to wear eye and mouth protection.
9) Grinding compound and metal shavings will spray everywhere, so be prepared. After an hour or so, use a degreaser to clean the gears. Then rinse and dry. Give the drive shaft a quick spin with your fingers. The gears should continue to spin freely and smoothly for at least two seconds. If not, repeat from step #6 above.
10) Repack the gear teeth with grease suitable for gears, such as molybdenum, and reinstall the gearboxes back into the tank.Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

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Last edited by bowlman; 12-10-2020 at 04:04 PM.
Old 12-28-2020, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by H2Ohaze View Post
Ran it for twenty more minutes. I turned the card volume up. The GB still do make some noise. But I may be unfair in calling it. The most noise, a kind of whine, comes from the tank when I am at the slowest speeds...speeds I cannot have done or at least controlled well with the stock GBs. So in a way, if I want the low speed, the whine comes with. I don't notice the noise quite as much at higher speeds.

All in all, yes, I am happy with the new movement of the Sherman 76. I do have to live with some gear noise, ok. The motors are a challenge to stuff in...less of an issue, but yes. The cost now is around $90, ouch. For me, it's worth the low speed, and there is plenty of torque too. I can creep this Sherman fore-aft by an inch or two if I want. Full speed is decent enough, but not winning any races. I think heavier tanks might be a different ballgame, esp if stock 90:1. I don't know, someone would have to try it I guess.
Hhhhm. I wonder if by putting back in (if you could?) the original 380 motors, the gearbox would be noticeably quieter again?
Old 12-28-2020, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hhhhm. I wonder if by putting back in (if you could?) the original 380 motors, the gearbox would be noticeably quieter ge again?
No, my mistake. It's the 7:1 gears (there's a lot of them) making the whine noises in your Sherman. I would take it out and put the original stock 3:1 gears and motor system back in after cleaning and then lubricating them after its re-installed, and eventually buy a good TX and program it for the desired speeds. You're out the $180 altogether or so but no more loud gear noise and a much nicer driving tank but heh, that's just me

Last edited by [email protected]; 12-29-2020 at 02:53 AM.
Old 12-29-2020, 08:07 AM
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I need to get this into proportion here. The gear noise as I perceived it was greater than stock, and can be heard over the sound card at some speeds. But not loud enough to judge it a big deal for me. I gain so much. Going from a 39:1 gear ratio to a 76:1 not only slows the tank to what I wanted, it provides more torque. The 390 motors included with the 7:1 gearset also have more torque. So now it can handle slow speeds... there is more mechanical advantage operating natively, before it even gets to the electrics beyond the motor. I can place the Sherman into position more readily, it doesn't jump around because the motors are turning more revolutions for the same distance. In addition, the bearings and gears are beefy looking over the v1.

It's going to be different for everyone. I'm saying the v3 works for me now. I don't have to do anything else to the Sherman. It won't work for others, and there are other solutions. The gear noise will bother others maybe, I can't judge that.

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