Ghost@amps1

4 Sure. Any suggestions for an upgraded 10ch RC Tx that also operates a small 4 servo receiver compatible for a Taigen tank?

Tankster

Get a Radiomaster TX16S and you will never need any other radio. It works with practically any receiver made. Look at online reviews. Best one out there.

Tankster

https://radindustries.wordpress.com/2020/06/25/radios/
do yourself a big favor and follow this link for some of the best info available. Explore the site for many electronic reviews and recommendations.

Crius

Flysky i10

Crius

tank commander

Rad_Schuhart

Sorry but disagree for several reasons:
1) Discontinnued/no longer for sale.
2) Software is abandoned (open source updates almost every week)
3) Not possible to fit multiprotocol modules. (Other radios come with it built in)
4) Only 10 channels. More and more boards are using 16.
5) Not enough switches, and many of them are two pos switches.
6) Very limited programming.

Sure it is much, much, MUCH better than other flyskyes or futabas/carsons, but as today, there are much better alternatives.

Crius

The first thing to consider is your skill level. If you're good with programming like Rad, and you can follow all it takes to program a radio like Rad uses, then definitely get whatever radio he advises. However, if you're like me, and can't program your way out of a paper bag, I still suggest you look for the one feature on the i10 I won't live without, and that's the wonderful help section. With the i10, if I want to do something but don't know how, I can usually go to the built in help section and the radio will teach me how to do what I want to do. I run my 1/6 Hetzer on the i10, with the .50 caliber paintball cannon and the FPV and the laser sighting, and most of the stuff I wanted to do with the radio, the radio had to teach me how to do it. But that's the point, even the stuff I didn't know how to do turned out to be easy to do with this radio. Oh yeah, this radio has full telemetry capability, so you can read stuff like battery voltage and motor rpm right from the TX. It's still easily available on ebay and if it really has been discontinued I might get another while I can, I like it that much. Once it's set for what I want it to do it will stay that way, so future upgrades don't really mean much to me. And to me open source doesn't mean much as I shouldn't ever have to update the TX in my application. Probably couldn't figger out how to do that if I wanted to anyway.

For me one of the most frustrating things about this hobby is when I get in over my head, very easy to do with electronics. The i10 helped me get past most of that. Like I said, if you can come anywhere close to Rad's abilities with programming then definitely get whatever TX he advises, but think about how easy it will be for YOU to use. If you can't get it to do what you want it's just an expensive paperweight.

Ghost@amps1

Do you you know of any site that stocks mid/low 5:1 gears/boxes that would somehow fit into a Taigen Pz4 G or even F2?

Ghost@amps1

My computer and programming skills are low so I'd be referring to the help feature quite a bit (probably print it out too) and being to the voltage on the tank batteries would be QUITE useful for me among other things I'm sure and the i10 Tx along with it's mini in-tank receiver isn't overly priced.

FlySky's i8 models and receivers have been discontinued.
Tks for your help thus far and try to stay cool

Ghost@amps1

Thx, and again good to know but hopefully I'll never get in THAT deep, lol

Ghost@amps1

No way do I want a spooky looking moving man doll anywhere near my tank

Ghost@amps1

Both the RM i12 and i16 have great reviews.

jarndice

Tanksters Tiger 1 Commander really is something to see and it raises the bar on what I have come to expect as the Norm in R/C.

Tankster

Jarndice! I owe you everything when it comes to my Tiger’s detailing and without that I would never have bothered with animating the commander. You pushed me in the direction of realism with your initial subtle suggestions. They were all well taken and by the way, I wish you the very best of health my friend.

H2Ohaze

wrt the 5:1 gearing: this is sold by ForgeBear in UK. Crius sold me a set he had. I bought my PIII specifically for this gearbox. The PIII is the lightest and smallest 1/16 tank they sell, and because of this, is a good addition to my stable of four tanks: each feels a little different. A short barrel can be aimed fast and doesn't hit trees while traversing.

I have heard 5:1 can fit other tanks, I think I heard PIV and Tiger1, not sure. My goal when upgrading gearboxes is to try and get a drop-in fit; if the Taigen engineer designed it to work, then go for it, otherwise don't do extra. Trouble. The PIII 5:1 refit included the gearboxes fitting past a number of counterbored recesses in the chassis; it had been machined to accept the 5:1 upgrade from factory! Screw heads from gearbox slid into recesses in chassis and all lined up!

BUT...the 5:1 is 46:1 and I think it works well for the PIII, I don't think that ratio works well for the heavier Sherman 76. I like the 76:1 of the 7:1 AGAIN for my Sherman. The motors now turn approx twice for the stock distance track traveled before. The noise doesn't bother me at all. Honestly.

Crius

Crius

The dual ratio gearboxes (what they call 5:1) are good only for light tanks like the PIII and PIV. I tried a set in a metal King Tiger and let the magic smoke get loose.

Ghost@amps1

to each their own I guess

Ghost@amps1

I don't think it's the size of the gears anymore that make it sound louder, but the size of the engines. The 380s do 2800rpm while the 390s do 5000rpm? That's a difference of 2000rpm. Higher gear ratio, the slower the speed but more torque - the lower the gear ratio, the faster the speed and less torque.

I believe you when you say that the noise doesn't bother you anymore but it would end up irritating me as I've heard the 380 engines first hand in a 3:1 Taigen Pz4 G on YouTube today.

Ghost@amps1

Not only creepy but evil looking too - a skeletal Hitler man doll. Different strokes . . .

H2Ohaze

wrt motor rpm: as I posted before, and also stated on the Taigen V3 Gearbox Thoughts thread, and available on websites that sell the motors where I found out about it, Taigen 380 is 18,000 rpm (or 18K rpm); 390 motor prior to the advent of the 7:1 V3 was stated on various websites as 25K rpm. NOW, on the Taigen V3 Gearbox Thoughts thread, Erik-Imex chimes in at one point and states he thinks that the new V3 7:1 GB have 390 motors that are 18K rpm, not 25K, matching that of the 380 motors. But he says he has to check on that, and he never posted back wrt.

tankme

I think you meant to say "using the same motor". So typically you will get more torque as you slow the motor down and less torque as you speed the motor up through gearing. Higher gearing = more speed/less torque. Lower gearing = more torque/less speed. The issue is when you use a bigger motor you can get more speed AND more torque due to the larger, more powerful motor. The 390 motor has a longer case length to enclose a longer stator. The 390 in this case is faster and has more torque. Its torque curve may fall off the faster it goes, but RPM for RPM compared to a 380, the 390 it will have more torque mounted to the same gearbox.

Of course you can throw all of this out the window if someone custom winds the motor. You could have a 390 motor that is less powerful than a 380 motor, but I see no reason to do that in our use cases for tanks.

Ghost@amps1

Have known this for quite some time and will probably stick with the faster but quieter stock 3:1 system with the 380's until soon afterwards when I also get an upgraded Tx and receiver for my Pz4 G.
Your new 7:1 system was tighter than the older 3:1 system cuz the 7:1 is 3mm wider

Ghost@amps1

Should have added torque differences because of tank weight and terrain as well but oh well . . .
No there's no sense for me to update my gearbox system at all after I get the tank as soon afterwards will be purchasing an upgraded transmitter and receiver that has more channels and servo ports for the PZ4 G that is compatible

philipat

I have a heavily modified HL Pz IV Ausf G (DAK). Pz IV Ausf G DAK Build

The Taigen tank looks like a good one for trying out and seeing you like the hobby. If you're serious about detailing it or making eventual improvements, I recommend a lot of research about the tank series and the unit you want to model. I also recommend that you scour the various RC Tank forums and find builds that give you examples of what others have done. Some things you may want to imitate, and some you might not. I recommend starting with stock and learning from there.

Some builds that may interest you. All of them use HL (what was available at the time) tanks with other aftermarket upgrades, including the Asiatam metal hull, which slightly pre-dated the Taigen hull.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...zer-iv-f1.html
Panzer 4 F2 HL IR (posted July 06, 2010)
Frosty's HL Panzer IV Build
https://www.heng-long-panzerforum.co...%BChe-version/ (uses Asiatam's metal lower hull)
https://www.heng-long-panzerforum.co...e-von-asiatam/ (also uses Asiatam's metal lower hull and shows one of the track tensioners)

A few of the threads I found most helpful don't seem to exist anymore.