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Heart transplant for an old warrior.

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Heart transplant for an old warrior.

Old 04-28-2021, 10:34 PM
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sevoblast
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Default Heart transplant for an old warrior.

Back in winter I received an inquiry from a gentleman in US. He had a tank his father built for him in 1975 which had ceased to move and he asked if we could fix it. After consultations with Daryl Turner, our resident hobby genius, we agreed to perform the repair.

Here are the images of the tank as Daryl received it. The original build was indeed 1975. The transmission used dual clutches to move the tank and speed was a very simply electro-mechanical device, servo operated. The gentleman had installed a new radio with modern servos to control the functions, but the clutches after 45 years had worn out. The tracks, original from the kit, were in good condition albeit with the usual Sherman knock kneed idler problem plus a couple of the road wheels with their poly caps had decided to go on holiday.








Old 04-29-2021, 12:15 AM
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First things first. Everything was removed from the hull, the hull was degreased, cleaned and minor bends and dents were straightened. New hull front extensions had to be fabricated, then hull was primored and painted. Next, ETO transimission was test fitted to the hull. Transmission is a bolt in, geometry of the Sherman hull has not changed in 45 years, nor has the sprocket mating protocol.




Old 04-29-2021, 03:33 AM
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Thatís looking great! First rate restoration going on there. Is the ETO transmission quieter than the standard type gearboxes?
Old 04-29-2021, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Tankster View Post
Thatís looking great! First rate restoration going on there. Is the ETO transmission quieter than the standard type gearboxes?
Wait until you see the end of this thread. Daryl does excellent work and all the electronic, while simple, are new.

My transmissions are much more quiet than stock, and the more you use them, the quieter they get.
Old 04-29-2021, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sevoblast View Post
the more you use them, the quieter they get.
I wish that applied to my ex-wives...LOL

Anyway, nice start. Been wanting to see your gearboxes in action in person for a while. I bought a used Sherman with them, but it was in such sad shape (not the gearboxes) that it's taking a while to get it healthy enough to run again.
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Old 04-29-2021, 07:47 AM
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I’m rebuilding a clutch drive right now since I can’t get any more full option tanks.
I had my machinist friend drill out the bogie arms and ream them to 7mm
Then I’m installing 4x7x2.5mm bearings. Next I glued the push caps into the wheels with a rubber cement type special Model train glue. Epoxy works as well but not plastic glue, the caps are not styrene but any.on type.
I also changed up the return rollers and glued the caps into the wheels and set them up quite free so the screw shaft rotates.
this is the best way I could revive and old pushcap clutch drive unit.
Old 04-29-2021, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tankme View Post
I wish that applied to my ex-wives...LOL Anyway, nice start. Been wanting to see your gearboxes in action in person for a while. I bought a used Sherman with them, but it was in such sad shape (not the gearboxes) that it's taking a while to get it healthy enough to run again.
Fortunately I don't have any of those 'ex' things.

Just so you know, the main frame is the same for all tanks, it's the mounts and final drive shafts that are different albeit with two different gear reduction ratios, the ratios are to keep the different tanks at roughly 'scale' speed on road, that and on Panther two of the final drive shaft gears are modified slightly. There is precious little room in the nose of a Panther, don't matter if it's D, A or G. The only fly in that statement, and you can verify by looking at your Sherman, is there was 2 design changes years ago to make the main frame universal. First, look at the three final drive shaft uprights.If all three are the same, it will fit anything but Panther and Tiger E. If one of the uprights is noticeably different, they are universal except for the Panther gear mod, which Daryl can do if needed.

Daryl is also in process of receiving various 'kits', this to simplify the glacial shipping. He gets the TU's as a main frame with everything but mounts and final drive shafts. The kits include everything needed for a particular tank, mounts to the hull, all needed shaft and mount spacers and attaching hardware, and for Panther the kit includes the modified gears.
Old 04-29-2021, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RichJohnson View Post
Iím rebuilding a clutch drive right now since I canít get any more full option tanks.
I had my machinist friend drill out the bogie arms and ream them to 7mm
Then Iím installing 4x7x2.5mm bearings. Next I glued the push caps into the wheels with a rubber cement type special Model train glue. Epoxy works as well but not plastic glue, the caps are not styrene but any.on type.
I also changed up the return rollers and glued the caps into the wheels and set them up quite free so the screw shaft rotates.
this is the best way I could revive and old pushcap clutch drive unit.
The transmission in the project unit was totally gone, the pot metal clutch parts had disintegrated. All the old parts were returned to the owner when the complete overhaul was finished. You, my friend, should to a thread on what you did to your Sherm. I'm sure there'd be lots of interest.
Old 04-29-2021, 08:30 AM
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I really need to try one of your gearboxes some time Bob...they're quite impressive.

I still run my old clutch Tamiya Sherman albeit very infrequently now but it still runs great. I am mildly bummed that I can't get the new tracks
for it that I want.... The oldest Tamiya Shermans came with a different gear set that allowed both halves of the gear box to be operated
independently so you could really eliminate the clutch mechanism (or at least the control/actuator) and operate the model with a more
'modern' control like IBU or Clerk. I've left mine in the original config (the spare gears are loose in the model) but the other Sherman
I have (the ex 'computer' one I've written about) I changed the OEM clutch gearbox to operate as two gearboxes. I do have nib FO Sherman
in my pile that I'll get ti someday.

I like your stuff Bob...

Jerry
Old 04-29-2021, 09:08 AM
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If and when you decide to pull the trigger, I'll take care of you. Daryl meticulously inspects and runs each TU and adjusts everything to perfection. The units are also run for two hours here before shipping. We also have spare parts, but they are rarely needed, if ever. Only one I can remember is recently a tank decided it was Desantnik and tried to fly. We had the one needed part in stock and it was out the door rapidly.
Old 04-29-2021, 09:44 AM
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I like the made in the USA aspect. I have a few questions. I wonder how these compare to my DKLM PDSGB or my Heng Long version dual current drive gearboxes? My Taigen-ish Tiger 1 is pretty heavy. Will it fit my non-Tamiya Tiger? I also need output shafts that accept Heng Long screws. Powerful motors?

Last edited by Tankster; 04-29-2021 at 09:51 AM.
Old 04-29-2021, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Tankster View Post
I like the made in the USA aspect. I have a few questions. I wonder how these compare to my DKLM PDSGB or my Heng Long version dual current drive gearboxes? My Taigen-ish Tiger 1 is pretty heavy. Will it fit my non-Tamiya Tiger? I also need output shafts that accept Heng Long screws. Powerful motors?
These TU's will pull anything you can come up with in 1/16 scale. I see from inquiries that I will have to go to machine shop and have them make some HL and other's drive shafts, which is no real problem. You will find no other transmissions available the will pull like these. My KT's and Tiger E's are very heavy, all with metal tracks, turned aluminium wheels with bearings and other goodies that pile the weight on. These units are designed to be compatible with Tamiya electronics, and they will work with other electronics that use duel transmissions. They are not compatible with the new Tamiya Leo 2 electronics, it's apples to oranges. As for fitting your non-Tamiya Tiger, I'm sure it can be done but the hull must be metal lower hull, the units are too strong for a plastic hull tank. You will have to make sure you have some spare track links metal or plastic, if you get a stone or debris caught in the tracks the transmission will not be hurt in the least, but you can be sure that if the track is jammed you will have a broken link.

That's the good news. The other information is I have everything machined here using the finest Mil Spec aluminium and steel available and the production blueprint tolerance is 0.01 mm. Gears and reductions come from Germany, bearings also (I'm sure the dual rubber sealed bearings actually come from China). Motors are from China. All the small parts, standoffs, nuts and bolts etc. come from up north. I am American.

Last edited by sevoblast; 04-29-2021 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 04-29-2021, 12:12 PM
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Iíve hijacked this thread enough. Iíll start a new one.
Old 04-29-2021, 09:48 PM
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One of the weaknesses of the Tamiya Sherman from Day 1 has been the idlers, and they have not changed to this day. Daryl some years ago developed a simple small plate to go on the inside of the Idler adjustment slot at the hull rear. This little plate greatly strengthens the hull in each side at the idler. He also, and so have I, added bearings to the idlers. This solves the knock kneed look of the idlers over time and greatly enhances track retention. Unfortunately, this little plate is no longer available, but it is simple to make.
Old 04-29-2021, 11:12 PM
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Next step was install the transmissions, obtain new electronics for a simple speed and direction control and make the necessary retainers and such for the electronics. The owner had installed a simple pistol type radio and receiver suitable for an RC car, but not quite up to snuff for a tank.






Old 04-30-2021, 07:51 AM
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I have gently tried to take idlers apart but never been successful. How do you get them apart and what size bearings do you install?
Old 04-30-2021, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RichJohnson View Post
I have gently tried to take idlers apart but never been successful. How do you get them apart and what size bearings do you install?
If memory serves, it's been a few moons, a good whack on the back of the idler mount and the center retainer/cap shaft comes out. I'll go through my records and see if I recorded all,and if not I'll get the info from Daryl. However, the best source I ever found for bearings in the States is Avid. Never a problem with them, quality of bearings is excellent, price is good and service better than good. They have a huge offering of metric bearings. Always get rubber sealed if possible, not 'metal shielded' unless that's the only option. Rubber seals keep everything out of the bearing race. Metal shield allow dust and fine grit in.

https://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metric-bearings/

Old 05-01-2021, 07:46 AM
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Daryl custom built an aluminium electronics and battery tray with a bracket for the radio receiver. Everything is neatly tied in and down, and he installed basic instruction labels as to what goes to what. He also from his stash of NOS parts found the needed missing parts on the rear hull plate and installed same, matching the colour rather well in my opinion. Daryl's work is of excellent quality and very well thought out and applied. He test ran the little beast after installing the radio receiver and making sure everything worked as it should. Please notice the idlers at the rear are no longer knock kneed so the tracks will stay on forever.

Old 05-03-2021, 05:43 AM
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Project is completed and delivered to the owner. To say he is pleased is a bit of an understatement. Final images of the restoration, images of the tank complete, images of the owners two sons. Their smiles says all, and Daryl did one heck of a job on this effort.

















Old 05-03-2021, 12:14 PM
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Nice makeover. Love those tranny's! They ought to hold up to about anything!
B
Old 05-03-2021, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_BobM View Post
Nice makeover. Love those tranny's! They ought to hold up to about anything. B
They be pretty strong, in all these years driving in this rock garden called home I've yet to harm one in the least, nor have the children who drive them frequently.

Old Yesterday, 06:27 AM
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Wow, nice restoration of an old Tamiya, circa '75 R/C Sherman!!!

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