Tamiya 1/16 Centurion photo build log.
#1

This thread is intended to be mainly a simple photo build log to show what ones has to look forward to when building the “New” 1/16 Tamiya Centurion.
A couple of notes. The Centurion is a rather large tank about the size of a Panther but with a much larger turret. I am building the Centurion without side skirts and in one of two themes (undecided yet). Both late 1960 either IDF or Vietnam era Australian. I have one of the new machined 105mm L7 guns being made by RichJohnson (here in the US) on the way and will be working it into the build for fitment testing.
I will endeavor to keep the photo of the build in sequence. If you have any questions about the build or productive comments please feel free to post them.

Box art. Like the M551 Sheridan Tamiya went back to a basic box.

What is in the box of the version I purchased.

A couple of notes. The Centurion is a rather large tank about the size of a Panther but with a much larger turret. I am building the Centurion without side skirts and in one of two themes (undecided yet). Both late 1960 either IDF or Vietnam era Australian. I have one of the new machined 105mm L7 guns being made by RichJohnson (here in the US) on the way and will be working it into the build for fitment testing.
I will endeavor to keep the photo of the build in sequence. If you have any questions about the build or productive comments please feel free to post them.

Box art. Like the M551 Sheridan Tamiya went back to a basic box.

What is in the box of the version I purchased.


Last edited by Fsttanks; 01-18-2022 at 10:48 PM.
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Pnzjgr (01-28-2022)
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Pnzjgr (01-28-2022)
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Pnzjgr (01-28-2022)
#4

Build photos continued.


The thin vertical plastic arm linkages are simply cosmetic and I suspect they will be damaged easily. If I was going to attach the side skirts I would have left them off as they would be unseen behind the shirts.


Jumped ahead because I was curious. I had a set of sealed bearings for some of my Tamiya tanks and found that the Centurion uses the same size bearings.


The thin vertical plastic arm linkages are simply cosmetic and I suspect they will be damaged easily. If I was going to attach the side skirts I would have left them off as they would be unseen behind the shirts.


Jumped ahead because I was curious. I had a set of sealed bearings for some of my Tamiya tanks and found that the Centurion uses the same size bearings.
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ronnie42 (01-19-2022)
#6

The idler arms and mounts are metal and use the now traditional Tamiya “grove and slot” type of adjustments. The idler wheels are styrene plastic with bearings. Similar to what Tamiya did with the Sheridan.
#8

Thanks for the good looking build thread, can't wait to jump into that suspension work!
Man... I should have just went with the import version.
Man... I should have just went with the import version.

#9

Gearboxes and road wheels.
Note here on the gearboxes. The motors have round shaft, the motor pinion gear uses an “Allen screw” to hold it on. I would highly recommend creating a flat spot on the motor shaft to hold the screw/pinion gear in place and keep it securely attached to shaft. Otherwise is short order the shaft will spin free and pinion gear will not turn. This was an issue several of us had with this set up on the Sheridan gearboxes.





The outdrive gears are the same ones used in the Pershing out drives. I checked them against a spare set of Pershing gears.
Note here on the gearboxes. The motors have round shaft, the motor pinion gear uses an “Allen screw” to hold it on. I would highly recommend creating a flat spot on the motor shaft to hold the screw/pinion gear in place and keep it securely attached to shaft. Otherwise is short order the shaft will spin free and pinion gear will not turn. This was an issue several of us had with this set up on the Sheridan gearboxes.





The outdrive gears are the same ones used in the Pershing out drives. I checked them against a spare set of Pershing gears.
Last edited by Fsttanks; 01-19-2022 at 04:12 PM.
#10

Build photos continued.

Gearbox covering plate.

Road wheels going on. Note here for those of you looking to add decorative spare road wheels to the front or turret. The Heng Long Challenge 2 wheels are the same size and very close in overall look to those of this kit. Just some very light modifications and you would have very convincing spare wheels.

Gearbox covering plate.

Road wheels going on. Note here for those of you looking to add decorative spare road wheels to the front or turret. The Heng Long Challenge 2 wheels are the same size and very close in overall look to those of this kit. Just some very light modifications and you would have very convincing spare wheels.

Last edited by Fsttanks; 01-19-2022 at 04:18 PM.
#12
#13

Build photos continued.
I actual got more done then shown. The other work was in the area of the electronics. I don’t care for the Tamiya layout as it makes the rear of the tank to heavy. I reworked the battery position and speaker to my liking, so because this is not part of the instructions provided I am leaving it out of the photos. Also gave the tank its first powered run to check the transmission. All worked as expected.
If you want to see my battery and speaker layout let me know.


I actual got more done then shown. The other work was in the area of the electronics. I don’t care for the Tamiya layout as it makes the rear of the tank to heavy. I reworked the battery position and speaker to my liking, so because this is not part of the instructions provided I am leaving it out of the photos. Also gave the tank its first powered run to check the transmission. All worked as expected.
If you want to see my battery and speaker layout let me know.


#14


Watching with popcorn


Last edited by bowlman; 01-20-2022 at 03:12 PM.
#15

Build photos continued.


The thin vertical plastic arm linkages are simply cosmetic and I suspect they will be damaged easily. If I was going to attach the side skirts I would have left them off as they would be unseen behind the shirts.


Jumped ahead because I was curious. I had a set of sealed bearings for some of my Tamiya tanks and found that the Centurion uses the same size bearings.


The thin vertical plastic arm linkages are simply cosmetic and I suspect they will be damaged easily. If I was going to attach the side skirts I would have left them off as they would be unseen behind the shirts.


Jumped ahead because I was curious. I had a set of sealed bearings for some of my Tamiya tanks and found that the Centurion uses the same size bearings.
#16

Build photos continued.
Started on turret. Note that the turret cargo bins are spring loaded not solidly glue to the turret. Don’t ask me why they are like this I can see no reason why.

Notice the springs for the cargo bins.

Started on turret. Note that the turret cargo bins are spring loaded not solidly glue to the turret. Don’t ask me why they are like this I can see no reason why.

Notice the springs for the cargo bins.

#17

I was asked about the tanks size. Here are a few comparisons with two other Tamiya tanks.
Note: the Centurion is still being built so some wires are not connected to their final systems. Also the 105mm cannon is a temporary until the fully machined one is slightly modified for this tank.
I also have a short video of the basic system test on my Instagram @ fsttanks. Feel free to take a look.

Pershing next to Centurion


Abrams next to Centurion.
Note: the Centurion is still being built so some wires are not connected to their final systems. Also the 105mm cannon is a temporary until the fully machined one is slightly modified for this tank.
I also have a short video of the basic system test on my Instagram @ fsttanks. Feel free to take a look.

Pershing next to Centurion


Abrams next to Centurion.
Last edited by Fsttanks; 01-20-2022 at 11:08 PM.
#19

”…gave the tank its first powered run to check the transmission. All worked as expected. “
Speaking of the transmission, I see Tamiya uses a mix of gear materials. Brass, a silvery metal (steel?) and something black (some kind of tough, low friction plastic?). Is there some reason they do this? Reduces noise? Wears better? Each gear size bought from the cheapest supplier? The contrasting colors looks pretty?
Speaking of the transmission, I see Tamiya uses a mix of gear materials. Brass, a silvery metal (steel?) and something black (some kind of tough, low friction plastic?). Is there some reason they do this? Reduces noise? Wears better? Each gear size bought from the cheapest supplier? The contrasting colors looks pretty?
#21

Spring loaded turret bins... that explains the gaps I saw on You Tube. Maybe an option to remove them later?
Looks like you're speeding right along on this one!
Looks like you're speeding right along on this one!
#22

#23

”…gave the tank its first powered run to check the transmission. All worked as expected. “
Speaking of the transmission, I see Tamiya uses a mix of gear materials. Brass, a silvery metal (steel?) and something black (some kind of tough, low friction plastic?). Is there some reason they do this? Reduces noise? Wears better? Each gear size bought from the cheapest supplier? The contrasting colors looks pretty?
Speaking of the transmission, I see Tamiya uses a mix of gear materials. Brass, a silvery metal (steel?) and something black (some kind of tough, low friction plastic?). Is there some reason they do this? Reduces noise? Wears better? Each gear size bought from the cheapest supplier? The contrasting colors looks pretty?
#24

Build photos continued.
Note: 1. I did not photograph each small assembly step this time. But I am sure you can see the process from the instruction manual.
2. The mantle pivot points use bushing that are the small size as the ones intended for the road wheels. Since I had bearings of the same size I swapped out the supplied bushing for bearing. This step is indicated by the photo with the tip of the screwdriver pointed at the diagram.



Wires to right of turret are for the IR bulb not flash. This will be installed when the battle system goes in shortly.

Replaced bushing with bearing. IMO it made the movement of the mantle much smoother.
Note: 1. I did not photograph each small assembly step this time. But I am sure you can see the process from the instruction manual.
2. The mantle pivot points use bushing that are the small size as the ones intended for the road wheels. Since I had bearings of the same size I swapped out the supplied bushing for bearing. This step is indicated by the photo with the tip of the screwdriver pointed at the diagram.



Wires to right of turret are for the IR bulb not flash. This will be installed when the battle system goes in shortly.

Replaced bushing with bearing. IMO it made the movement of the mantle much smoother.
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bowlman (01-21-2022)
#25

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Hi Fsttanks
The odd thing about those springs on the bins is that the bins don't actually lie hard up against the turret, there's a space between them, that you don't see on most models. It was an aspect that surprised me when I was researching for my Ludwig Cent.
Mal

RHS turret bin rear with gap showing

RHS turret bin fwd with gap showing

LHS turret bins with gap showing
The odd thing about those springs on the bins is that the bins don't actually lie hard up against the turret, there's a space between them, that you don't see on most models. It was an aspect that surprised me when I was researching for my Ludwig Cent.
Mal

RHS turret bin rear with gap showing

RHS turret bin fwd with gap showing

LHS turret bins with gap showing
Last edited by afv aficionado; 01-21-2022 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Further thought
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king_tubby (01-21-2022)