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3D Printed 1:16 E-100

Old 07-26-2022, 03:56 PM
  #26  
Durahl
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Originally Posted by Crius View Post
I would probably use stainless steel. The road wheels are unsprung weight so it really shouldn't hurt you if they're heavier and they won't be all that much heavier.
Yeaa... I don't think my 3-Axis CNC Router would agree with another attempt in machining Steel - Doing the thin Steel Sheet Inserts for my M26 Storage Boxes so the Canisters and Crates could magically/magnetically be attached to them has already left me scarred for trying once 😅 I'd also argue that - at that scale - Aluminium should still do a perfectly fine job while being less agonizing to work with - I mean... My E-100 is heavy... Just not that heavy 😁

But the issue with the Wheel Rims is - for now - mostly cosmetic ( not a functional one ) so putting a lot of effort into it now instead of the more pressing Swing Arms followed by the Drive Sprockets would be silly.
Old 08-14-2022, 11:54 AM
  #27  
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Now that you've been through this exercise what is your opinion of the Formlabs' Form³ system?

Is it worth the cost or cost effective? Rinsing and curing parts using their equipment, easy? PITA?

Print size? Adequate, too small? Just right?

I'm considering what printer to spring for as I want to try my hand at printing less common vehicles.

Jerry
Old 08-14-2022, 02:21 PM
  #28  
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Wink Yeaa... Probably not.

Hard to answer without ever having owned or even just used a cheaper alternative MSLA Resin 3D Printer to compare to.

As much as I hate to admit it but from a very sober perspective the entire Formlabs Ecosystem is ridiculously overpriced - There's no beating around the bush concerning that...
Literally everything you need from them costs like 2-5x what the competition asks for their stuff... The Printers themselves, the Tanks the Print is formed in, the Resins, etc...
The Tanks are, like anything on the Market, a consumable but unlike literally anything on the market cannot be refurbished by the end-user so every time one has expired ( or prematurely gone bad ) you'll be shelling out the full price for a new one.
None of mine have "actually" expired from use but one has prematurely failed ( not catastrophically by forming a leak ) but at least Formlabs sent me a new one no questions asked.

Anyway... From that metric alone unless you're ****ting money my recommendation would be an obvious NO.

Then there's also the issue of the Form³ now technically being slower than a Form² due to it no longer using a Galvano Mirror for the X-Axis but instead sweeping the entire LightProcessingUnit on a slower Stepper Driven Leadscrew.
While this may have enabled the existence of the Form³L using two such LPUs and the serviceability by the end-user when it comes to replacing one it in avertedly slowed down the Print Speed of the regular Form³ - Which was already slower than a MSLA system printing the entire surface all at once.

The only thing I imagine you probably benefitting from going with Formlabs is with their selection of specialized Resins and the ( probably still ) higher grade of detail you can push with it being an analogue SLA system with a moving LASER - Not a digital MSLA tied to the raster of a Screen one.

As for post processing I'd recommend getting the Form Wash - It is SOOO MUCH BETTER than trying to clean parts manually with the Cleaning Kit that ships with the Basic Kit.
This will probably hold true for ANY washing station out there nowadays so pick whatever you want - I only have the Wash because nothing like that existed when I got mine.

Concerning the print size, I'd still describe it as above average especially if you have parts that lean more into the print layer cross section of a square instead of a rectangle usually found on MSLA 3D Printers.
You'll still not be 3D printing entire Tanks or Turrets in one go ( unless you're doing a BW Wiesel MKI ) but everything else should be no issue... Picture of my E-100s Center Skirts:


Getting these parts off the Build Platform is a breeze due to the angled brim of the Base and a Prying Tool that ships with either the Cleaning Station or the Wash.
Hold the Print Platform above either IPA Tank at an angle, put the Prying Tool under the Base and give it a slight twist - Pops of like nothing without a fuzz.

Basic Resins like Grey and Clear also won't need any post curing so getting a UV Curing Station isn't necessary for them though I've DIYed myself one from when before Formlabs released theirs.
Old 08-15-2022, 01:43 AM
  #29  
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Jerry, you might take a look at the Wanhao d8. I have one of those and it's a pretty good printer. I use the water washable resin and clean up is pretty easy. I would, however, recommend some kind of UV light for curing. Of course, with the state of things in the world today it might take quite a while to get one of those shipped from china, but I do believe they have a US warehouse that they ship from. I think it's in New jersey.
Old 08-15-2022, 07:39 AM
  #30  
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Thanks gents for the assessment and recommendation.

Jerry
Old 08-15-2022, 07:45 AM
  #31  
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I would recommend the Elegoo Mars and Saturn printers. My original Elegoo Mars was $250 and the Saturn was $550. Both are very capable and make great parts. Plus spare parts for both are readily available from Amazon. I went down the path of getting a Form 3 and it was in the neighborhood of $4000. It makes nice parts - a friend has one and uses it for a business. But the printer is expensive as are the consumables. I've spent less than $1000 on both printers and have made many things. I would recommend a wash station as well. Resin printing in general is a messy process.
-Bob
Old 08-17-2022, 07:28 AM
  #32  
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As an entry level resin printer I got an Anycubic Photon mono. Been very impressed so far with it, but I hvaen't really done anything really challenging or large. I got some of their flex resin and that I have been really impressed with the results. I've been meaning to start really cranking out detail bits for ships and tanks and other stuff, and haven't really dug in yet, as we've had other things to attend to lately.

With all factory settings, and without changing anything, I printed these:



Not my creations! But I'm very impressed. One of these days I'll get around to doing usefull stuff...
Old 08-17-2022, 12:37 PM
  #33  
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Judging the Elephants Foot ( and some common sense ) I'd say they were printed directly onto the build Platform - Did you use a Springsteel Sheet of some sorts to get them off? The Notre Dame must otherwise have been a R.F.P.I.T.A. to get off 🤔

Not much has happened with my E-100 so far... Come next week I'll probably order a set of Tamiya Gearboxes to ensure I'll have one set on hand as I'm pretty sure they're about to make themselves rare and with the Hull all glued up making any changes for a different type of Gearbox is going to be difficult if not impossible. As I was preparing the Swing Arms Pewter Casting parts for the Silicone Mould making process, I ran out of Resin resulting in an almost finished but failed 4h print so I had to order some more costing me another arm and a leg 😑

That being said though I've finally painted and weathered the Tracks with them now only missing a protective Clear Coat:

The upper one is just the Rust Effect ( and a failed Graphite Pencil "metallizing" attempt ) whereas the lower one is the finished result.
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Old 08-17-2022, 03:25 PM
  #34  
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The tracks look great!!!
Old 08-20-2022, 07:59 PM
  #35  
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Default Wish me luck 😉

With the new batch of Resin having arrived I went and finished the Masters for the Mould...

Using a half Master, I created one side of the Mould first to let that side cure, inserted the full Master in its place, dusted the Mould contacting areas with baby powder after protecting a section at the bottom from the dust with a tape which was removed before adding the second pour.


400g Slab of High Temperature Silicone - The section without the powder would form a permanent bond securely aligning the parts together ( with the help of the indents at the top ) while the rest would - after intense cursing - split apart.
Here's to hoping the size of the Funnel will create enough pressure to fill the parts from the bottom up where air can then escape from using venting holes.

The Swing Arms were now modified to be usable on either side of the model in case one or more pours would fail possibly leaving me with a lopsided amount of Swing Arms only suitable for one Side.
I've also replaced the Through Hole feature for the Axles with Indents as to where to drill since casting around such features appears to be difficult - Possibly creating a cold weld where the flow comes together after getting split.

Tomorrow I'll be building a small station to heat up the Pewter using my Hot Air Gun ( supposedly sufficient enough ) and to safely cast the parts in without burning down the house 🤣

As far as I'm told:
  • the first few casts are expected to fail until the remaining moisture in it has evaporated due to the heat.
  • dusting the inside of the mould again with baby powder will help with a good pour.
  • preheating the mould should also aide towards a good pour.
Any other Tips and Tricks I should be aware of? 🤔
Old 09-24-2022, 03:32 PM
  #36  
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And finally a video of the Tank in motion:
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Old 09-26-2022, 06:32 PM
  #37  
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Looks really great! The main gun flash is nice! Great work!
Bob
Old 09-27-2022, 02:19 AM
  #38  
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Beast!
Old 09-27-2022, 04:33 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RC_BobM View Post
Looks really great! The main gun flash is nice! Great work!
Bob
It's a with the Beier SFR-1-D Controller compatible Taigen High Intensity LED Flash Unit - The two are plug and play but I had to redo the Wiring for longer Cables 😑
I'd have preferred to use a Tamiya HV Xenon Flash Unit, but the Beier Support couldn't give any advice on installing that one.
I found out that Taigen used to have a Xenon model, but they seem to have been discontinued so the LED one it was.

Originally Posted by borealis View Post
Beast!
Glad ya like it 😁
Old 09-27-2022, 11:02 AM
  #40  
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I have both the Taigen Xenon type and the LED type. They are equally as bright and the LED one is less fragile. The Tamiya flash units are notoriously hard to come by and have a higher failure rate so I would say the Taigen version will serve you better in the long run.

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