Biasphere1

Thought I'd better post up , I know this tank and system has been done to death but anyways .

Way back at the start before the bushfires, Covid and 4 once in 500 year floods in 6 months .lol.

Ryan from Spyker's bits I 3D printed. That guy is awesome .

Anything grey is 3D printed .The motors are just sat in there for a photo op .


An early air blower print in grey .


Hatches up .

Hatches down .

Biasphere1

My first effort at fillet weld lines .

Updated effort. I'll sand and fill in the welds with the dust then a heavy coat and I think those weld lines will look decent .
I've skipped way ahead of the first photo's as you can see I'll go back to the grind now .

Biasphere1

All the bits to a working bogey hanger .

First coat of all the suspension bits .This is the real color as my cheap ass mobile phone flash photo's wash out the olive drab a lot .

Most bits laid out for a photo op . Notice the wash out from the flash .

The finished product this X 6 . BBK soon .

Biasphere1

I took this one to show the dark contrast against the upper hull , but failed badly as the sun came out .

Biasphere1

Got a whole bunch of stuff to go in and on it , got a TK24S from King Kenny at DAKRCTANK too.
All good .

Tankhobby

Did you use ABS, PLA or another type of filament for the 3D printed parts? Also what adhesive did you use to glue the 3D parts to the plastic tank?
I had to fiddle around with a few different glues before I found one that worked like a solvent to really hold the parts together.

Biasphere1

Ryan from Spyker uses an adhesive in his videos it's Oatey All purpose cement ,I can't get it here in Australia or not sure what the option is in the same material , if you know , let me know lol.. Here at 8.45 is the stuff. , I'd love some of it if anyone wants to do a like for like swap or something for some Oatey APC . Maybe a STL file swap that are my own design or something .
I print in PLA and seal it after I've worked it to where it fits usually with a really mild fibreglass resin batch..
I've used mostly Medium CA and quick CA as there's not much I had to back fill.
Some Gorilla glues as a bulk filler/cement , like to seat and house the front gearbox , to really set it in tight as a foundation . .
I used modeling putty 50/50 set filler around the axle receivers in the bogey , next one I will use the resin you use to display bugs and spiders in that clear set stuff.
I've only got one bogey that I had to glue solid bit I've put it in a good place AND BULKED IT UP A BIT .
Cheers .

tankme

Oatley is typically a plumber's glue so you might have an equivalent type of glue for the plumber's in Australia.

Biasphere1

A pic of the Sabertooth 2X12 ,where it might end up is on this side of the frame work higher up in case it goes thru water .Crappy pictures I know but that little Sabertooth is a work of engineering art up close.The Sabertooth is like a BEC system as well as it feeds 5v back to the RX .I have an 8 Channel PWM PPM SBUS Signal Converter to split the SBUS to 2 PWM channels to the Sabertooth as it will only run that way as far as I know .

The 2 12V Lead acid batteries to drive the motors will go here somewhere to counterbalance the weight of the motors up front . A smoker, speaker and some other stuff has to live back here too ,so I'll do some lay ups soon .

The TK24S flow diagram I'll run this on 2 X 7.2 S2 2200mAh 35C LiPo's in parallel . I have a cannon smoker with flash and an engine smoker so I'll have to hotwire from the Taigen/Heng Long plug ins .Maybe from CN9 .What does the Engine Deck Level switch do ? Anyone ?

Nick I just had a look at your site , man that is awesome ,well done .

Biasphere1

CHRONOLOGICALLY THIS IS THE FIRST BIT . Now without caps !

No 2 .

No 3 .

My bad the blurryness .

Last ,you get the idea . I have to pull it apart and sort out servo throw's, lock tite and the snugness/straightness of some of the bits. Cheers out .

Crius

The barrel and mantlet look really good, did you get those from Spyker?

Biasphere1

No Crius they're stock Dragon parts.They'll take some work though, look at the barrel tip on pic 2 and you'll see a little underfill near the tip/muzzle .I'll have to fill that and a few other bits in. There's indents on the turret too I'll fill as well.
Crius do you own or run the FOA shop ?

Crius

I am not affiliated with the foa shop in any way. I wish my Stuart had come with a decent Barrel, I'll have to replace it so I've been looking around for a good vendor that makes those.

Tankhobby

Armorpax has one for the Stuart:

https://www.armorpax.net/wwii-allied-parts

I also have an stl for mine that I made to fit over an Airsoft barrel so probably not accurate to scale but looks better than the original:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4312707

Tankhobby

Are you going to put in flash and smoke? Maybe an Airsoft or BB gun?
Two of my 1/6 scale rc tanks have Airsoft guns mounted in the turret. NOT and easy job!

Biasphere1

Yea Nick I have a cannon smoke and flash system and the load proportional smoke system for the motors and an MG led too .I don't have enough plug ins on the TK24S so I'll have to figure out the HL/Taigen/Tamiya plug ins with the remote control set up, that or split the smoke out signal .I'll work it out .I really need my soldering iron but I have young grown/childish adults so I can't find it.
Stanley Tai has said that most any IR sender can strobe an LED or fire the smoke fan as well, so I'll work it out .
This is my first SBUS/IBUS radio system so I'll try not to blow it all up first run.I still haven't found a track solution but I will, there's ribbed ramset type nails that work as one Pommy fellow has done that I bought some but the shop sent the wrong ones .I may buy aftermarket though who knows .
The TK24S has turned up so yea the soldering iron has gone walkabout .lol
On the WEB for the moment to set up the radio commands .
Cheers .
Addendum I've got the TK24S going this **** sounds wicked .

Biasphere1

This started as a pic of the Clark board with just a few things attached, then it grew and grew .

As above.

Crius

Try mounting a 50 caliber paintball pistol. I did that in my Hetzer and it came out pretty well, but I don't think there's enough room in a Sherman turret for one. Maybe a King Tiger. But with any of the tank destroyers it's not really a problem. I've even got Traverse on mine. And it's actually very close to scale. I can never remember which is which, but the real hetzer had a 75 or 76 mm gun and in scale the 50 caliber paintball is very close, I think the ball is 76 mm and the real thing was 75 mm, but I might have that backwards.

Biasphere1

Shoot Crius I just figured it out we PM'ed a couple of times , your big Hetzers electronics and stuff .
Cheers mate .

Biasphere1

Shoot I have a short vid of the barrel firing/recoiling but it's MP4 and I can't bring it across .
Anyone know hot to make it so I can upload it ?
Cheers .

Crius

I upload mine to YouTube first and then import them here.

Tankhobby

Yup, YouTube then paste the link in the post.

Biasphere1

I'll sort something out .
Got a Q here

I have the board delivered with this yellow thing in the SW port , well half of that thing I think the top half maybe the removal tool (I don't have) . So yea why is it like this I guess Kenny from DAKRCTANK sent it like this for a reason but I don't know why . The Clark site says this "HL tank already have power switch on battery cable path, so additional switch is no longer required, just to short pins in this port by jumper or connect to a switch cable and keep it switched on". So does that mean keep it plugged in ?
I can get most everything to work so I think it means keep it in .

Tankhobby

That is a shorting jumper, it's intent is to short two header pins together.

tankme

Clark designed it as a port for a switch to turn the board on and off, but most people have one main battery switch to turn the entire tank on so it's not needed. Therefore they put a jumper in the socket to make sure the board would come on when the battery voltage is applied using the main tank switch.