1:16 Scale Motor / Battery Currents?
#1

Thread Starter

I'm planning on equipping more of my Tanks with 360° Slip Rings like I've already done on my Tamiya #36208 Gepard 1A2.
Most of the Tanks will be fairly straight forward as their Controllers will remain in the Chassis thus requiring only low current Connections to the Turrets in what I assume to be sub 2A rating...
Now as for my E-100 that is a bit of a different story as I'm playing with the idea of going full Tamiya Leopard 2A6 with relocating the Controller into the Turret which would necessitate a Higher Current Slip Ring.
Anyone having any experience in how high those currents can go for a 1:16 scale Model about 6kg in weight and using Tamiya Gearboxes ( the ones found in the likes of a King Tiger, Pershing, KV-2 )?
The Slip Rings that I'm considering are technically only rated for 2A per Channel, but I could make up for the lack in Amp Rating with a high Channel count pairing 2 Channels together for a Motor Connection and 3-4 Channels for a Battery one.
All in all, I'd be needing a 24 Channel Slip Ring with like 14 Channels going into the Motor / Battery Connections with the remaining ones available for the Turret Servo, LEDs and Speaker.
So, yea... Do 4A per Motor Lead and 6-8A per Battery Lead sound sufficient for these kinds of Models? 🤔🤨
Most of the Tanks will be fairly straight forward as their Controllers will remain in the Chassis thus requiring only low current Connections to the Turrets in what I assume to be sub 2A rating...
Now as for my E-100 that is a bit of a different story as I'm playing with the idea of going full Tamiya Leopard 2A6 with relocating the Controller into the Turret which would necessitate a Higher Current Slip Ring.
Anyone having any experience in how high those currents can go for a 1:16 scale Model about 6kg in weight and using Tamiya Gearboxes ( the ones found in the likes of a King Tiger, Pershing, KV-2 )?
The Slip Rings that I'm considering are technically only rated for 2A per Channel, but I could make up for the lack in Amp Rating with a high Channel count pairing 2 Channels together for a Motor Connection and 3-4 Channels for a Battery one.
All in all, I'd be needing a 24 Channel Slip Ring with like 14 Channels going into the Motor / Battery Connections with the remaining ones available for the Turret Servo, LEDs and Speaker.
So, yea... Do 4A per Motor Lead and 6-8A per Battery Lead sound sufficient for these kinds of Models? 🤔🤨
#2

I'm planning on equipping more of my Tanks with 360° Slip Rings like I've already done on my
Most of the Tanks will be fairly straight forward as their Controllers will remain in the Chassis thus requiring only low current Connections to the Turrets in what I assume to be sub 2A rating...
Now as for my E-100 that is a bit of a different story as I'm playing with the idea of going full Tamiya Leopard 2A6 with relocating the Controller into the Turret which would necessitate a Higher Current Slip Ring.
Anyone having any experience in how high those currents can go for a 1:16 scale Model about 6kg in weight and using Tamiya Gearboxes ( )?
The Slip Rings that I'm considering are technically only rated for 2A per Channel, but I could make up for the lack in Amp Rating with a high Channel count pairing 2 Channels together for a Motor Connection and 3-4 Channels for a Battery one.
All in all, I'd be needing a 24 Channel Slip Ring with like 14 Channels going into the Motor / Battery Connections with the remaining ones available for the Turret Servo, LEDs and Speaker.
So, yea... Do 4A per Motor Lead and 6-8A per Battery Lead sound sufficient for these kinds of Models? 🤔🤨
Most of the Tanks will be fairly straight forward as their Controllers will remain in the Chassis thus requiring only low current Connections to the Turrets in what I assume to be sub 2A rating...
Now as for my E-100 that is a bit of a different story as I'm playing with the idea of going full Tamiya Leopard 2A6 with relocating the Controller into the Turret which would necessitate a Higher Current Slip Ring.
Anyone having any experience in how high those currents can go for a 1:16 scale Model about 6kg in weight and using Tamiya Gearboxes ( )?
The Slip Rings that I'm considering are technically only rated for 2A per Channel, but I could make up for the lack in Amp Rating with a high Channel count pairing 2 Channels together for a Motor Connection and 3-4 Channels for a Battery one.
All in all, I'd be needing a 24 Channel Slip Ring with like 14 Channels going into the Motor / Battery Connections with the remaining ones available for the Turret Servo, LEDs and Speaker.
So, yea... Do 4A per Motor Lead and 6-8A per Battery Lead sound sufficient for these kinds of Models? 🤔🤨
so just tested my heng long tiger and sherman by driving them on hardwood against my foot.
both drew a max of about 3.0-3.1A peak but, being hard wood and easy for the tanks to slide on and the tanks only being about 2.5-3KG with their metal tracks I wouldn't be surprised to see your tank draw more. and even if it didn't a 1-.9A buffer is kinda slim in my opinion.
So in short you could do this but I would increase the wire count per circuit.
#3


They make slip rings with some small gauge wire and some larger gauge wire. This one is sold out, but it has (4) 10A wires and (12) 2A wires in the same ring. Stanley might be able to point you in the right direction as to where he found it.
https://www.rctanklegion.com/product...0a-12-wires-2a
Derek
https://www.rctanklegion.com/product...0a-12-wires-2a
Derek
#4


FORGET THIS!! I see its turret ring current you want!
Aplogies for being hastyˇ!!!!!!!!. I'll just get me coat.....
You cant go wrong with this calculator:
https://community.robotshop.com/blog...or-sizing-tool
Once you enter all your data....and all of it is easy to find...you end up with a max current draw and other useful data.
Then just size your cables appropriately.
P
Aplogies for being hastyˇ!!!!!!!!. I'll just get me coat.....
You cant go wrong with this calculator:
https://community.robotshop.com/blog...or-sizing-tool
Once you enter all your data....and all of it is easy to find...you end up with a max current draw and other useful data.
Then just size your cables appropriately.
P
#5

Thread Starter

You cant go wrong with this calculator: https://community.robotshop.com/blog...or-sizing-tool
#6


If you are working without headroom you can add fuses or circuit breakers to limit the current. That's what I do on my 1/6th scale tanks as some of those motors can draw over 100A at stall. I put a breaker on each motor limiting them to 50A as my ESC is rated for 60A continuous. The ESC can handle more, but I wanted to go conservative for my batteries.
Derek
Derek
#7


I do mostly modern tanks. Modern tanks have so much going on in the turret that it can be a challenge just finding a slip ring with enough wires. Smoke heater, smoke fan, main gun elevation, main gun traverse, mg elevation, mg traverse, commander’s sight rotation, main gun recoil, ir battle system, gyro stabilization. All the LEDs..
Super tedious to wire up all that crap. And slip rings wear out, wiring gets chewed up. The last slip ring I bought had 32 wires and I could’ve used more. I swore off slip rings. I’m going wireless in my okmo m60 with Beier usm-rc and Bluetooth module in the turret. Not as inexpensive as a slip ring but I value my sanity.
There’s also the option of using a separate receiver and battery in the turret bound to external transmitter module. Using the hull rx bound to internal rf for the first four channels. But I haven’t tried this method.
Super tedious to wire up all that crap. And slip rings wear out, wiring gets chewed up. The last slip ring I bought had 32 wires and I could’ve used more. I swore off slip rings. I’m going wireless in my okmo m60 with Beier usm-rc and Bluetooth module in the turret. Not as inexpensive as a slip ring but I value my sanity.
There’s also the option of using a separate receiver and battery in the turret bound to external transmitter module. Using the hull rx bound to internal rf for the first four channels. But I haven’t tried this method.
#8

After burning out my slip ring on my Maus years ago, I found a more robust slip ring on Ebay that supports up to 6 amps per circuit
This is the model I used
This is the model I used