schutzstaffel

someone asked me how to remove those wheels,this is how i did it:

using 2 fingers to hold the wheel down and with the other hand pulled on the first set of wheels while twisting.

for the last set of wheels i used longnose pliers to hold down the suspensions arms and pulled hard (scary). the center metal pin (axle) will come out with the last wheel.

for the sprocket wheel have used a small screwdriver to lift the cap .

then you can unscrew that philips head screw, usually the screw is already loose ,they often turn loose quite fast .

it is a good idea to re-screw them often (when you feel that the sprocket is loose ) , have put some gentle locking liquid on the treads to softly lock that screw.

if someone has a better trick to pull out the last wheel , post a reply, i`m curious .

Harquebus

I find this very helpful and the pics speak as loudly as the words.

Question: is there a way to make this topic, and other topics, a "sticky" so it will always be at the top of the list so as to direct newcomers in this procedure?

-Harquebus

danzig

from a newbie perspective, the idea of a FAQ/stick topic, sounds a great idea

Gaizokubanou

I never knew those wheels would just pop out like that, thanks schutzstaffel!

swathdiver

I've removed the rear idlers from the inside by tapping the shafts out with a punch and hammer.

karma99

Sorry to necro this post, but I just read it before starting to remove my HL Tiger wheels, and think I've found an alternative, non-scary method!

You need a small pair of needle nose pliers, and some standard pliers or small cutters (don't panic nothing gets cut!).
Use the small end of the needle nose pliers to get at the wheel at it's base and wiggle them between the wheel and suspension arm till they expose the pin. Then as you wiggle the pliers push them down so that as they get fatter they push the pin out of the suspension arm. Once you reach the end of your pliers (having pushed them down as far (and as fat) as they go) use the second pair of pliers (I used some cutters) to grip the end of the pin between outside of the wheel and the pin head so you can start with the thin end of the pliers at the arm again. Wiggle as before, and bingo, the wheel drops neatly into your hand.

No need to hold the arm as the needle pliers do that anyway, and no need to pull like a weightlifter and terrify yourself that something's going to snap!

Hope that makes sense and makes someone else's wheel removal less traumatic

pzrwest

Once you have removed the original road wheels on the HL Tiger I can they be re-installed after painting the tank?

swathdiver

Yes, they won't be destroyed like a Pershing or Walker's wheels. Just be careful with the suspension arms and spigots!

pzrwest

Ok Thanks swathdiver

BIGMIG

Your way KARMA99 is much safer,a thin blade screw driver is a good way to get them started.then the needle nose pliers will finish the job.None of the tiger wheels I've worked on so far have been glued togeather,just friction holds them in place.Easy to take off and put back on.The tiger tracks are my favorite,darn good tracks in my opinion. BIGMIG

JerB

James, is there a way to remove the road wheels from a bulldog or pershing wihtout damaging them?

- Jeremy

swathdiver

Not really. When I painted my M26A1 I started removing them and wound up breaking every single one, must have been a whole tube of glue holding them together! Had to get new ones from Mato. Some fellows have reported being able to pry them apart, the trouble I had was the glue was behind the hub where a knife couldn't get at it. Thank goodness for Mato! He sent me a whole replacement set plus a few spares! I had to force him to take some money.

Miggers

On the drive sprockets change the standard phillips screws for cap headed allen set screws.

The screws I used are M4x8mm,M4 sporing washer and M4 flat washers all in mild steel.You could use A4/316L stainless if you wanted to.

Take 1 off cap head set screw,place 1 off M4 spring washer on it first and then 1 off M4 flat washer and insert that into your sprocket and tighten up with an allen key.

The cap screw goes into the output shaft slightly further than the phillips screw and the spring washer stops it undoing,resulting in a better firmer fixing that doesn't come undone as often for the drive sprocket.

Miggers[8D]