taoJ

I want to diy zimmerit for my tiger 1, I seen the kit, but dont really care for it, perfer I diy it, I seen someone use styrene and soldering iron, way to slow, so I was lookingat sculpting epoxies, but dont know what I should be looking for, also dont know how much I am gonna need? Iwill prob end up having to ship this ,the 50th suks for supplies like this
Would this be enough? or would this work?
Tamiya 87052 Epoxy Sculpting Putty
(Smooth Surface) 25g
T.I.A

Rebellion13

You might want to try your local hobby shop, I have heard people using squadron putty and using the back or topside of a knife blade for the lines. this is just an assumption but maybe auto body filler might work.


Cheers,
Wade

Pzjgr

That's what some people use with great success, I took Streetsquid's (Craig) advice though and used Joint Compound (water based). I think my Panther came out pretty good....I didn't get a close up of my Panther but here it is.

sevoblast

I use Squadron Putty. Line off the tank in the appropriate widths of the Zim columns, use painter's tape to put an edge on the lined working front to back, aka left to right. As you draw the tool to the right over the putty, you will draw the excess on to the tape. For the next column, just remove the next tape strip, and start that column.

As for the tool, it's really quite expensive and hard to find. I did finally find one in of all places a discount market. An ordinary pocket comb, closely spaced teeth...soft plastic, like delrin. Keept a stiff brush next to you, and after every pass thru the wet putty, clean the teeth of the comb with the brush. You can also cut the comb to length as needed. I use about 35mm section, and smaller pieces to do smaller areas like around the mantlet etc.

You can also put down various patches of painters tape to simulate missing sections of the zim. Just to the entire column or two, then remove the tape patch, and you have a section devoid of zim.

It's a little time consuming to do the lines and tape, but once you have that done, zim is a piece of cake.

Reason I use the Squadron putty, or any other non water based putty, is it bonds with the plastic. Joint compound will not bond with the plastic, it will simply sit there. Haven't tried it, but I would think it would be prone to coming off with time.

Oh yeah, forgot one thing. Practice, practice, and practice some more on scrap before you do the tank!
Sev

bananapirate

Tamiya actually sells zimmerit kits, with photo-etch pieces to make the lines in the putty with

taoJ

Will 1 tube be more then enough? or should I get more?

sevoblast

Get two tubes. I use the white or green, matters not, although white is more prototypical. Better to have two tubes and not need one, than to have one tube and then at midnight discover you need another. Besides, there will be many times you need some filler to do little mods.

As for the Tamiya tool, last I looked, and admittedly it's been a while, they were only for 1/35, not 1/16. The trusty pocket comb has worked for me since '03.
Sev

taoJ

thanks, will order 2 tubes, I seen the tamiya tools, it's 1/35 not 1/16, I was gonna use a gear and make a holder , like a sewing tracing tool

sevoblast

The gear will work too. Try both methods, practice a lot, and go with the method that you feel best using. If memory serves, some years ago someone did use the gear method, but dipped the gear in paint thinner before each pass, to prevent the putty from sticking to the gear.
However, practice and practice some more before you attempt it on your tank.
Sev

cheap tank

I have used squadron putty and bondo i like the bondo better just mix it a little lite on hardener so you have some working time. One thing with bondo it does take alot of paint to prime it.

ArmChairGeneral

I used water based wall plaster, I am sure all suggestions would work equally well.

manchu9inf

What I use is Miliput, you can usually get it a Hobby Lobby or you can get it from any on-line hobby store.
This product gives me prettty decent results and you can use different types of flat tipped screw drivers to effect the patteren. On the Tiger I the zimmerit pattern on the turret was wider than the pattern on the hull so 2 different width flat type scew drivers will be needed
I have also used squadron green putty, it dries fast!! you have to work pretty fast and practice more, if you make a mistake, it is extremely less forgiving to correct the mistake than Miliput.
Attached are the 2 tigers and in progress Panzer IV, I have zimmeritted. Tiger 311 with squadfron green putty and Tiger A21 with Miliput.
I am doing a Panzer IV now, and have used Miliput.
Miliput is slow drying, so if you make a mistake you can fix it. I usually scratch the surface of the model where you want zimmerit with a hobby knife to give the miliput a little extra bite for better adhesion. Even when the miliput dries you can actually remove little parts of it around from surface details if you need to. I had to do this before and once painted you can not tell there was a mistake.
Just MHO but I feel miliput gives you the best desired results. If you want more pictures of different areas of tank, or more info just pm me.
hope this helps,
Will

Panther F

A hands-on demonstration or video can help too. Someone here should post a little how-to video so we can see how to spread/apply/comb the putty.


- Jeff

karel47

I am use usualy Revell putty mixed with cellulose thinner for my RC tanks. It never will comes off while riding , and is very easy to correct you have about 10min, is use a screwdriver for the zimmerit of the King Tiger and TigerI ot 5,5mm with just push it in the paste gently and move it downwards. The result is just like in real live zimmerit, applied with hand .... hope u find it usefull

greetings

karel

karel47

As i said earlier i used Revell putty mixed with cellulose thinner, this have a BIG Major setting, the thinner bites into the plastic, it forms one withe the paste, and with this small amound to use you Don't damage your model, i also use this to simulate dirt to the body of my panzers. I work in theme on "the Ardennes Offensive" or "Battle of the Bulge" end '44 in the belgian ardennes so they have to look durty even on the shelves ...

karel47

i have one suggestion guys don't use wheels with theets this gives a clean zimmerit but in real live zimmerit was applied by hand like you make a wall for instance. It wasn't regular of patron it was a kind of concreet or cement so they used a little shovel i think you know what i mean , my english sucks a bit

karel47

this is a real apply of zimmerit on the Jagdpanther look how rough the patron is

skylarkmk1

Do a google search for zimmerit. One site that came up was this one - Armoram http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?...rtid=30&page=1 It is for smaller static display models but does have a history and a How-To (written with pictures) on the site.

Another had a link to R & J Enterprizes for Zimm-it-rite from http://www.rjproducts.com/ which the above author like to use.

taoJ

Longer working time is a must, since I will be doing this over a couple of weeks probably

karel47

This a real foto's of zimmerit applied on the Jagdpanther Late, see the iregular patron. Thats has it to be on the model, that scalemodelling as real as the real thing

karel47

This is the link were i get the pics of the real Jagdpanther, I bought one from Torro IR with metalgear, payed about 87€ my others are all tamiya but the torro isn't that bad, very well detailed with FO like tamiya but cheaper
The link
http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/t...r_32_of_83.jpg

in total 83 detailed pics to remake your rc 1/16 jagdpanther more real, nothing has to be but can to be, its up to yours now

karel47

http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/tho...dex.php?Page=2new link the other was not working perfect

Saxondog

Their was a posting by Bubbajoexx about zimmerit and a tool he made using a pinion gear,he just roller it down the zimmerit and the pattern was the same every time,sorry I don't have a link.Sax

taoJ

I seen that one, I was gonna make something similar

karel47

that would give a similar althrough patron that not correct with real zimmerit, your rc tank will benifit apply by hand with irregular patron, much real real than with a pinion done