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Tiger1 Full Metal "Bullet-proof?"

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Tiger1 Full Metal "Bullet-proof?"

Old 07-25-2010, 10:59 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

more pics with suspension installed and hull top taped on. I can't start finishing the turret yet as Ihaven't built my firing system.
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:00 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

So what's the beast weigh in at this point?
Old 08-02-2010, 11:57 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Latest pics:
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:20 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Great idea and workmanship Duke. I was once thinking to use alumium sign plate to add onto current tiger tank, but never started...too lazy perhaps.

Just incase when you finished with this tank, you need a good 3 to one reduction metal geat box to carry an extra weights. Otherwise, you are going to hve the same probvlem as before-stripping gears...
Old 08-09-2010, 06:32 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

I am around 14lbs right now.  So far no troubles with my new gear boxes except alignment issues (all my fault, rushing to get tank going) with drive wheels, road wheels, idlers...   It's still too fast for scale, I think.  Although the way it rocks on it's suspension when starting/stopping is pretty cool.  When you start rolling forward, the front end raises up and when you stop quickly it drops right down and has a little "bounce".  I'm not lacking anything in power and my board only blew up once because I accidentally hooked it up to 16 volts.  If RX-18 boards are week, then I got the one super-strong board ever made.
Old 08-09-2010, 07:48 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Duke, Good work pal, ,,,,so how is r18 going,,,do you have any problems on hills or hard turning? Do you think HL rx board are reliable? What gear box did you use?

Thanks
Old 08-09-2010, 09:56 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

I've had no problems climbing (except traction issues).  It will climb forty five or sixty degree banks as long as it has traction.  Smooth surfaces and it will just spin it's tracks.   My gears are standard style HL boxes with steel gears that I got off E-bay for $30 Can.  I want reduction gears though for two reasons.  One: I would like realistic speed (also would like to take the "jumpiness" out of low speed maneuvers) and Two: would like better quality gear boxes so there is less play.  I think a gear box with ball bearings will prove necessary with the amount of load I have with the weight of my tank.  As far as RX-18 boards being reliable, there are an awful lot of horror stories on here of burnt out boards, but so far mine has proven tough as nails.
Old 08-09-2010, 10:50 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Duke, thanks for sharing. Obviously your rx18 is a good board, I need tossing up between tamiya 300$ vs 20$, I would think 15X RX 18 boards = one tamiya Mfo1/dmd may be is a worth option.

I think the rx18 is givingout more power than previous boards.
Old 08-09-2010, 11:16 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Olds 455 on the stand???
Old 08-10-2010, 11:38 AM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

It's an Olds 425 bored 0.030 over from a 67 Toronado.  10.5:1 compression, forged rods, forged crank, 480ft/lbs torque stock. 

Johnmar78:  I don't know enough about the available tank electronics to really be able to comment, however I do have my experiences with the RX-18 that came in my tiger.  I know there is IR battle compatibility issues between Tamiya and HL battle units.  I would be interested in researching these ELMOD systems I keep hearing about.  As far as I know you can get interesting sound and movement upgrades and battle compatibility.  Price is my final factor mind you, so I'm using what I got right now.

Old 08-10-2010, 02:45 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

My Tiger weighs over 14 pounds and that is just with metal upgrades and Asiatam hull. i also have the RCCommand Steel geared 3:1 gearboxes in it. It is all Tamiya electronics so if you want bullet proof! That is the way too go because at that weight You Will burn up your 18 board sooner or later, and another, and an other.
Old 08-11-2010, 05:07 AM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

thansk PanG, and Duke. i got bad experience with emode..end up sold to other people. emode can be very confused and never worked with my hl...
Old 08-15-2010, 08:31 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

I don't understand how a plastic tank with aluminum and pot-metal accessories can weigh 14lbs when mine made out of 1/8" steel plates, sheet metal, body fill, two batteries and with metal tracks and steel idler tension system only weighs 14lbs.  I would like to see your tank and know why it is so heavy.
Old 08-15-2010, 08:51 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Did you weigh it with the electronics and battery in it? If not, that may well be the difference. The Asiatam lower hull is quite heavy on it's own. My Tiger 1 is also 14-15 lbs.
Old 08-15-2010, 08:56 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

perhaps PanG is using some lead to counter weight the tank movement so when it climb over the hills it looked more realistic than a cheap quick flip over effefcts...... am I right or wrong/?

Duke, you need show us mor eof your metal tiger..its very interesting....
Old 08-16-2010, 12:08 AM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Ahh, never heard of the 425 but I recognized the heads and block as Oldsmobile. Learn something cool every day! Is it going back into the Toro or something else?
Old 08-18-2010, 10:45 PM
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I just re-weighed my tank on my electronic bathroom scale.  It had everything I have built so far (including upper hull, turret, two batteries, motors, metal tracks, steel/brass barrel with 1/8 " steel backed mantlet, both motors and gear boxes, metal drive and idler wheels, steel idler tensioner set up, plastic swing arms, plastic wheels, turret rotation motor and I added the old air-soft gun for ****s and giggles) and it weighed three times at 14.4 lbs.  Seriously, look at the build and see it's solid steel plate, not aluminum or any other white metal on all frontal areas including the glacis plate.  All metal parts are welded together.  The turret is sheet metal from an old micro-wave and is fairly thick (don't know what gauge) with two areas on either side of the front opening reinforced with 1/8" steel plate.  The hull bottom is sheet metal (from micro-wave) smoothed with bondo.  the rear armor is sheet metal too, with plastic parts screwed to it.

Off topic:  You have a good eye, Swathdiver.  The Olds 425 was only made for a couple of years then stroked to make a 455.  It is going in a 57 Chev  that I'm turning into a "Gasser" style street/strip car.  But that is for another forum (some time soon on the H.A.M.B.)
Old 08-18-2010, 10:50 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Duke, more close up picture please you sick full metal tiger tank man....[X(][X(]
Old 08-18-2010, 10:57 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Duke, my PIII is 11.6 pounds with everything in it including a battery. You have to keep in mind, these are all metal road wheels, sprockets, return rollers, bearings, bushings, suspension, etc. And the plastic/resin exterior that surrounds the metal tub and this plastic plate over the torsionbars is far more dense than 1.5 - 2mm millimeter steel or aluminum. Everything just adds up as there are fairly compact with stuff.
Old 08-25-2010, 11:26 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

Itook a few more pics of the tank. I am showing the tank as Iweighed it (including building up what I had inside the tank when weighed). Ialso took a couple more of my barrel (home made brass and iron barrel with steel mantlet backing). Also added a pic of the 425 with headers on (off topic Iknow, but what the hell ).
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:32 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

good work keep coming mate.........

I am doing mine too out of "scrap" - off cut brass and copper plates ,I got it cheap 10$.........
Old 08-28-2010, 07:41 AM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

I was saying in our pm's that I want to start doing detailing with copper and brass.  I will build all my fenders and mud flaps with them.    There is a thread of a fellow who made a couple of Italian tanks and used alot of copper and brass and they look great.  The only problem is if you make anything structural the metal must be rigid enough not to flex.  Some parts that don't take much strain would be OK but a lower hull made of copper would have to be pretty thick to keep from bending out of shape.
Old 08-30-2010, 10:43 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

AT the risk of showing off how much of a hack I am, here are some pics of my fenders and mudflaps that I am attempting to fabricate from brass. There is also a pic of my engine grates. I bought a variety pack of metal from my local hobby shop and it included two sheets of copper grate. I think it will look pretty cool (if anyone even notices it under the main grates).
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:56 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

very VERY good Duke, keep coming, the brass you uare using reminds mine nice off cut shopping
Old 09-13-2010, 09:54 PM
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Default RE: Tiger1 Full Metal

OK, update, Iguess. Iam still in limbo with my turret, as Ihaven't figured out my weapon system yet. Unfortunately the bb gun Ihad on hand will not be useable in it's current form (Iwill probably need somesort of an electric solenoid to fire it. Iam thinking spare paintball marker pieces but Iam not sure what will work yet). That means Icannot finish my turret, gun elevation system, hopper system, etc... But Ihave started to finish the outside of my turret and of my tank hull. Iam still not sure what I'll do for road wheels, as Ireally wanted to get the $40 late style wheels but can't find them anywhere anymore. Imay attempt to make wheels but Isee that as turning into a extremely tedious and unrewarding endevour. But we shall see... Anyhow, I have finished my rear mud flaps and installed them, and Ihave finally built a spare track holder for the front of the hull. All of these were built from brass plate, tube and wire, then soldered together. Hopefully they look good enough to justify the retarded amount of labour involved in making them (probably would have taken some of you cats about ten minutes to make something that looks perfect mind you).
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