RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I am not missing Craig's point at all. I understand the frustration of buying something and not getting what you thought you paid for. How ever your missing my point. The issue clarks trying to avoid already happens with current systems (dbc2 anybody?). My point is that we should try the damage simulation with our tank (many not running stock tus) and see how they fare. This is the sort of feed back Clark needs. He has shown he is prepared to make good on the initial hickup which is a very good sign. Further more no one has answered my point about being able to make a product plug and play for all internal components avalible. As far as I'm concerned Clark has given us the excellent true recoil function for servo recoil which allows for a very low cost recoil solution compared to asiatam or Tamiya for example. Unless a common standard for internal components is agreed it will be impossible to have a plug and play system.

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I didn't think anyone would expect a single board to be true plug &amp; play for all the different manufacturer's tanks &amp; every single variation a tank hobbyist could have incorporated into a modified tank, such as changing from the stock recoil, etc. But you know what, when I ask for plug &amp; play, I'm only talking about the possibility of making a board plug &amp; play for at least the <u>standard</u> off the shelf stock Heng Long tanks, which seems like it would be exactly 2 types if you chose to address all of HL models, Airsoft &amp; IR, not an infinite or vast amount of variations on the parts being used in their two models. If Heng Long owns the largest share of tanks being sold off the shelf in the targeted market, then more people buying a new tank would obviously benefit &amp; be more interested in having a replacement board plug &amp; play, &amp; more would be willing to spend their money on the boards. I would take a guess that most people buying a Heng Long tank don't have soldering skills or have had any experience rewiring &amp; modifying stuff like we encounter inside the tanks either, but just unplugging &amp; then replugging things in would allow anyone to use the product, not just people who aren't afraid to get their hands dirty.

So the ideal would still be to have exactly what makes it the easiest for a majority of the people owning tanks to be able to upgrade them, &amp; is why many would want to ask for an actual 100% plug &amp; play board. Therefore I see no harm with wanting or asking for it. If it's impossible to make a true plug &amp; play board for even the barest of off the shelf stock Heng Long tanks, than so be it, I can solder too, but I'd still rather not have to if it could be avoided.

If by standard tus you meant the typical HL metal upgrade gearboxes, then you could be 100% correct in that the only gearboxes affected are the gearboxes using the crappy white metal gears. Still, it would have been in Clark's &amp; everyone's best interest to be more clear about the exact nature of the damage simulation feature not working after he first made a blanket statement that simply said HL metal gearboxes don't work. He was asked several times to clarify the issue with metal gears, &amp; though he responded several times, he still never clarified which metal gearboxes or setups have issues, nor did he confirm that some metal gearboxes, like the 3:1 or 4:1, would be OK. Maybe he doesn't know about the different sets of metal gearboxes available, &amp; that's why he chooses to not be more specific to the metal gear questioning, I don't know.

I agree, eventually we will get reports of the damage simulation feature &amp; how well it works or doesn't work for some people, so we can't rule out that the feature may very well work as it should as long as you have plastic gears, maybe upgraded more powerful motors, or 3:1 or 4:1 metal gear gearboxes. But one thing I definitely know already, I don't have to wait to find out, as my boards won't work with damage simulation no matter what gearbox I run, because he removed the feature altogether before shipping the two TK-20-T boards to me!

~ Craig ~

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I was the one who had the idea of changing and how to change the settings on the DBC & DBCRC2 to be more competitive on the Battle Field with Tamiya, as I sold these specifically for that purpose. It was the first system that offered us Heng long owners a cheap way to get on the battle field. David and I did a lot of testing and at least 3 member here had different chips to test. Here is a HINT for Clark,,, 25 percent power reduced off of the Tamiya electronics, is not the same percentage of power off of the Clark boards or the Heng long RX-18 for the same results. But the tricky part is getting the setting so it is the same as Tamiya otherwise if will be seen a board that is not on a level playing field as the standard.


Phil

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

The Clark board if you use the onboard servo recoil circuit, is almost plug and play. All you have to to is resolder a couple of wires so you get direct control of the gun elevation. This is a simple straight forward thing to do with clear instruction on the website. I am not sure we can expect much better then that. Remember the two wires to resolder give you that direct control of the gun elevation. No way you are goig to be able to do that on a Heng Long any easier way

As far as being fair on the battle field, there is so much that play into this. Gearing, bearings electronics, motors, all have an effect on the "ability of the tank to move after being hit. To demand that all electroics are exactly fair, and then allow all the mechanical upgrades seems to defy logic. Yes the Tamiya, DBC, EL mod, might all have slightly different speed effects, but I think we have to live with that if we want choice on the battlefield. As long as the system produces reductions of speed as the damage is bening inlficted we should be OK wiith it.

The nice thing about the DBC line, and probabably the Mako as well is that the chip can be reprogrammed and swapped out to keep the hardware in line with what people want. As Phil mentioned he worked wiht David to modify the chip for better battle perfromance, and then I worked with David to enhance the chip to utilize the Benedini. An example of the flexibility of Davids original design.

I am not going to abandon the DBC3 or Benedini, as it is a functioning system that delivers the goods now with the flexibility to allow users to upload their own sound files.

Clark is offering something that looks to be pretty darn good IF IT DELIVERS. Currently all of us who bought the orignal Clark boards have systems that don't have battle damage, but I have every reason to believe he now understands the importance of that and will just turn this feature back on when he programs the next batch. He has done some really good things and has looked at making sure it is compatible with Tamiya. I.e you can plug in a Tamiya TBU which is argruably the single most important thing when you discuss IR battlefield issues.

This offering from Clark is going to be a real challenge. IMO once you buy one of these units and see what it does for $60............................................... ..

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Clark did offer to reprogram your boards with the damage simulation feature. Even if you have do pay $10 to send them back it's 1/3 of the cost of the next cheapest Tamiya compatable system.

Also I disagree about the point made about plug and play getting people into the hobby. Low cost will get people into IR battleing, if you can get a system 1/4 the price of the next cheapst (tk20) people will go for this over something plug and play that costs $200 (slu which it's self isn't without issues). If I can mange to rewire my tanks as possibly the worst solderer with a horrible soldering iron, anyone can. There's only so far you can go making things easy in a niche hobby such as this.<br type="_moz" />

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Hopefully as Dan says this board will only get better, the DBC has improved over time till now it has to be the best sounding option when you use the Bendini card.
This board sounds great, runs 2.4g and is an affordable upgrade at the moment, which has got to be a good start. and IMO the re-coil alone is worth $60:D

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Firstly I don't think I missed your point which is plug and play needs and patience for clark. Well my opinion on plug and play is out there, I feel it is of the utmost importance, even beyond some features. If you can't use the product it doesn't matter what it does.

Next was the patience for the Clark board. Well I read back about all the hoopla and the features it was supposed to have and then it shipped without them or am I wrong on that? That is just plain wrong and was a deliberate action as it has been posted the feature was removed.
Sothe information should have been offered to the buyers and let them decide what happens next, no excuses on that one in my book. Too many vendors of product don't care or know enough about their customer too choose what is important to them.

As for the highlited line there is a truly plug and play system with ALL internal parts on the drawing board. As far as I have seen the only truly plug and play components are the Mako product. I will grant anybody they are not complete with portions of things missing like sound etc but they are inexpensive, plug and play and they work as advertised for the audience they are intended for, the part time tanker that is just entering the hobby.

I have posted several times in this thread that we should all be patient with regard to the clark boards and there is proof of this in previous pages, what I won't give up and the main point behind my post was to challenge your thoughts on "why do we need plug and play" I guess in that issue I might be preaching to the choir because the real problem is every vendor has not agreed to make product to a specific standard.

Opinions vary and that is all I have the same as you, an opinion.
Maybe everybody should be sending mail to all the vendors saying we want an exact standard for plugs, programs etc
it would be to their benefit as much as ours.
<br type="_moz" />

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

very good point tom, I stated that i would prefer plug and play because of time constraints.........but If I had to solder (which I have no trouble with) for something that was this cost effective..um well then time to heat up the iron. And even though this is a niche hobby, it has grown tremendously since I got involved 5 or 6 years ago with tanks. and as stated before, remember those of us, the rx-13 piece of ..... None of my tanks are battle ready, and with all that is out there now, I can't make a decision lol. I actually get frustrated at myself because I can't decide. And now there is this option lol.

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Freaky, do you care to elaborate on this "in the works" board? I would love to hear more about this.

Cheers,
Wade

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

This is so close to plug and play, it might as well be. Two wires to swap on the Heng Long connector board to give you independant control of the gun elevation. As far as I know if you want to move away from the cam style, motor runs in one direction heng Long elevation, you will have to do this. The Clark servo recoil is dead easy and is plug and play. This $60 board means you don't need to buy a Tamiya recoil or any other recoil mechanism. Just a cheap analog servo, reducing the money you need to spend further.

Has there been an issue with the way some things were done with this Clark release yes, but I won't comment on those.

As far as standardization goes. Clark is using the Tamiya IR signal , and the pinout allows the Tamiya TBU to be plugged in. Once he gets the battle damage feature back in it will be completely built to the standards the IRCTA was promoting. No one esle is doing that except the DBC line.

OH yes the DBC3 is completely plug and play as well.

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

sorry but no I couldn't eleborate on it. I know it is being worked on but I am not the programmer, designer or owner of the board so I am not aware of where it sits and anything I would say would be based on an assumption.
Heck there is more than one manufacturer working on boards that I know of.

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Yes, almost plug &amp; play, assuming you happen to own a servo &amp; can solder a couple wires &amp; use the real recoil connection, OK, &amp; the clear instructions (with pics too) you mention only seem to be for Tamiya recoil units, which I don't have either.

I think most of us get it, that the real recoil &amp; servo system is a great option &amp; doesn't seem too difficult to implement, assuming you already have, or will have the servo to go that route. But like a lot of new Heng Long tank owners, I just have the stock HL recoil/elevation units which came in my Super IR version, &amp; nothing else. The thing is, I can already move the stock gun barrel elevation unit up or down at will with the Clark board, no cycling is necessary, unlike the original control using the HL system &amp; controller.

I guess this is where my confusion starts, because I already have direct control of the gun elevation, but what I don't seem to get with everything plugged in without any modding is recoil, flash, &amp; IRLED with the stock stuff. People that are more savvy to the various electronics &amp; the boards themselves, along with reading the various documentation, may be able to easily see why everything works but those three functions, I could not. So I will need some help to straighten it out &amp; get everything working. Eventually I'll either just have to try things &amp; figure it out by myself, or some nice person will upload a complete tutorial or video showing everything in detail in how they converted their completely stock IR HL tank so every feature works, using the TK-20 board, &amp; without having to add any extra servos or switch to different recoil units.

There are some simple instructions shown for the HL recoil unit on his website, but notice it doesn't specifically list the TK-20.<div style="margin-left: 40px;">HLEGLONG recoil unit installation( TK30 and TK18-H Version )
STEP1. connect detection SW to 4th and 5th pin on CN3.
STEP2. connect motor + to 3rd pin on CN9.
STEP3. connect motor - to 4th pin on CN9.
</div><div>So will this work with the TK-20-T with a stock IR HL tank? I don't know, &amp; I would rather be sure before I start cutting or manually switching wires around in plugs.

Reading those instructions, it seems to me that I would take the 2-pin plug coming from the turret that I would normally have to plug into the RX-18 CN3 plug's 4th &amp; 5th pins (which I believe is the recoil switch), &amp; plug them into the TK-20 CN3 plug's 4th &amp; 5th pins, which would be easy &amp; straight forward. But what I'm not sure, is removing the current 2 wires from the CN9 plug so that I can pull, then insert the HL recoil motor + &amp; - wires into those locations.

However, without pictures to show the process for the stock HL recoil unit, like the Tamiya instructions offer, &amp; without having keen enough sense of what is really what with the HL wiring &amp; plugs, I would rather wait to see a video or some pictorial instructions acknowledging it works with the TK-20, before trying this myself. I just don't want to ruin the board. It's going back to either be replaced or get refunded, because I'm waiting for positive confirmation that the damage simulation feature will work with at least the 3:1 metal gearboxes using 400 or 480 motors.

~ Craig ~</div>

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I understand, but thank you anyway

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

36,506.75 shares of Merck is so close to 36,507 shares, it might as well be ... yet I had a hard time convincing my broker while arguing my case http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ey/msn/lol.gif

Look, the board is a great board, I don't think many are denying that fact, nor are many (or any?) denying the fact that it might not be too difficult to get everything running just as it should, &amp; that it is almost plug &amp; play. But the Clark board is not a 100% plug &amp; play board, there is no argument that can support that claim to me. If you have to manually solder anything, replace parts like a servo, or do anything but plug the existing plugs back into it ... it's not 100% plug &amp; play to me. So on the plug &amp; play claims, I'm done with it because I choose to agree that we will always disagree, no sense in me debating it any longer.

Also Dan, most likely you haven't read through my last post since I have not yet seen a response to my earlier statement on the gun elevation which contradicts your statements, &amp; hopefully you don't miss this point ... please resist repeating this claim again going forward, "As far as I know if you want to move away from the cam style, motor runs in one direction heng Long elevation, you will have to do this. The Clark servo recoil is dead easy and is plug and play."

I'll go out on a limb &amp; offer this information ... from my own experience you are just about dead wrong on your HL elevation motor assumption or claim with respect to how it will work with the Clark board! Maybe it has to do with a difference between older or newer HL tanks, I don't know, but I do have complete independent control over gun barrel elevation ... up or down ... in the exact direction I want, whenever I want, using the stock HL elevation unit &amp; the Clark TK-20-T board in my KV-1 tank. With my controller setup, right control stick half-way up &amp; pushed left will raise the barrel, right stick half-way up &amp; pushed to the right will lower the barrel. I can move it at variable speeds in either direction &amp; stop the barrel, then reverse direction immediately ... there is no need to wait for a full cycle in one direction before being able to reverse gun barrel elevation direction. There is however one caveat, if you do happen to pass the top or bottom of a directional cycle, the stick configuration itself will reverse for your up or down control ... but I still do have complete control. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...unge_smile.gif

Hey, if no one else with a Clark board &amp; a stock HL tank can back me up &amp; verify this, &amp; anyone questions the validity of this claim, I can always throw a quick video of it working on Youtube http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...wink_smile.gif

... now, to just get the recoil, flash, IR, &amp; damage simulation back working again, &amp; I'll be golden with my almost plug &amp; play board! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../thumbs_up.gif

~ Craig ~

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

With my worthless opinion, i believe these electronics packages are getting far too complicated. Especially for the casual or new hobbiest. <div> I will be sticking to my Tamiya and YHR/DBC systems. They are reliable and the service is second to none. no questions asked, have a problem it gets fixed.</div><div> Do we all really need all these functions. In my experience in a high tension level battle you don't have time to play with all those toys.</div><div> I want my tanks to fight well, sound good and run reliably. Dan and Dave's system gives that and more and for my generic conversions you can't beat the Tamiya electronics. just my useless opinion.</div>

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I agree, to a certain extent. But it is also nice to have other options as well, if not then the tanking hobby becomes stagnant.

Cheers,
Wade

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

If you have independant control of the bbl and you haven't done the little Clark mod, I believe you are at risk of having a dead short. I am suggesting you need to be careful. On a Heng Long tank the recoil motor and the elevation motor share a positive. Without doing the Mod on the Clark Page there is a chance when you reverse polarity on the Elevation motor a short will occur when you try to fire the cannon. If you are having issues with your Heng Long factory recoil that may be the problem right now. Not sure why Clark would go to the trouble of posting this mod on his page if it wasn't neccessary.

Also no argument from me as to the fact this is not 100% plug and play. No need to even agree to disagree, as we both agree. When it comes to plug and play there is no gray area. It either is or it isn't

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Thanks Dan, I have to assume you are correct, that I need to do some changes since all things don't work, but I guess I'm fairly thick headed when it comes to seeing what you are referring to, because I look over the Clark installation instructions &amp; HL elevation mod stuff mentioned, but I only see an elevation mod that pertains to Air-soft re-wiring. I do not have an Air-soft HL tank, it's an IR version, so am I supposed to still use those same instructions anyway, &amp; treat wherever these instructions mention Air-soft unit, like it was just talking about the current recoil unit in an IR tank, try to do what-ever re-wiring it shows &amp; discard what it says about any safety switch, because the IR version has no safety switch? Again, to me it's confusing not really understanding how any of the HL stuff works, &amp; then I'm only seeing instructions for a necessary mod if you have an Air-soft unit, which seems like it must be different than the recoil/elevation units used in the HL IR tanks.

So just looking at Clarks installation guide instructions he has listed:
<div style="margin-left: 40px;"><span class="smalltxt1"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"><font size="2">http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp </font></span></span><span class="smalltxt1"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"><font size="2">Set </font></span><span lang="en-us"><font size="2"> <span style="font-family: Tahoma">Gun Flash Port Configuration to match tank configuration (AirSoft, Henglong Recoil or Tamiya Recoil)</span></font></span><span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"><font size="2">, </font></span></span></div><div style="margin-left: 40px;"><span class="smalltxt1"><span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"><font size="2"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Not really sure what to do with the first instruction, on his identification chart, the Gun Flash Port is CN3, what am I supposed to set?</span>

</font></span></span><span class="smalltxt1"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"><font size="2">http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp </font></span></span><span class="smalltxt1"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> <font size="2"> Disconnect RX-18 and plug cables to the same connector </font></span></span><span class="smalltxt1"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"><font size="2">on TKs,
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Nothing here about removing or swapping any wires around in the existing HL wired plugs, just pull all the current RX-18 wires &amp; plugs out of the board, &amp; then directly replug all the same wired plugs into the same labeled ports on TK20 board. So this is what I had done.</span>
</font></span></span></div><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> <font size="2"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Set </font></span><span style="font-family: Tahoma"><font size="2"> Sound Volume<span lang="en-us"> to middle
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did this</span>
</span></font></span></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> <font size="2"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Connect a switch to </font></span><span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"> <font size="2">Switch Cable Port, just to short 2 pins in SW port if you are using HL tank.
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did this</span>
</font></span></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> <font size="2"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Connect a </font></span><span lang="en-us"><font size="2"> <span style="font-family: Tahoma">recoil servo to J2(Optional),
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did not do this, I have no recoil servo to use with the real recoil connector</span>
</span></font></span></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Rewire </span> <span style="font-family:Tahoma"> Air-soft unit <span lang="en-us">if you want to </span>elevate and depress gun directly.<span lang="en-us"> See "HL E</span>levation<span lang="en-us"> MOD"</span></span><span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"> section,</span></font><span lang="en-us"><font size="2"><span style="font-family: Tahoma">(Optional)
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Again, I do not have an Air-soft unit, so to me, any instructions under the entire section listed as "HL Elevation MOD" seemed to be irrelevant to my installation &amp; I didn't even look into them.</span>
</span></font></span></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Set CH1, 2 and 3 trimmer on transmitter to center position, Set CH4 trimmer on transmitter to most left or right position
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did this</span>
</span> </font></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Power on TK board and transmitter, you should hear </span> </font></span><font size="2" face="Tahoma"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font face="Tahoma">turret traverse</font></span><span lang="en-us"><span class="smalltxt1"><font face="Tahoma"> sound. i</font><span style="font-family: Tahoma">f not, please contact us.
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did this</span>
</span></span></span></font></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp gently move CH4</span></font><span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"><font size="2">(Multi function</font></span><font size="2"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma;mso-font-kerning:0pt"> control </span> </font> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;mso-font-kerning:0pt"><font size="2">signal 2<span lang="en-us">)</span></font></span><font size="2"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> trimmer to center till </span> </font><font size="2" face="Tahoma">turret traverse<span lang="en-us"> is gone.
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did this</span>
</span></font></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp gently move CH2(</span></font><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma;mso-font-kerning:0pt"><font size="2">Throttle )</font></span><font size="2"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> trimmer up and down if you hear motor hum sound.
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Did this</span>
</span></font></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"><span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp Cannon firing sound should be generated and </span> <span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"> recoil servo should moves when move </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> CH3 stick to most top position, if not, gently move CH3(</span></font><span lang="en-us" style="font-family: Tahoma"><font size="2">Multi function</font></span><font size="2"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma;mso-font-kerning:0pt"> control </span> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;mso-font-kerning:0pt">signal 2</span></font><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma;mso-font-kerning:0pt"><font size="2"> )</font></span><font size="2"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> trimmer up and down </span> </font><span lang="en-us"><font size="2"><span style="font-family: Tahoma">till it work correctly.
<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Cannon fire sound generated, but of course the HL recoil didn't do anything</span>
</span></font></span></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px;" class="MsoNormal"> <span class="smalltxt1"> <font size="2"> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family:Tahoma"> http://www.clark-model.com/chi/square.bmp You are all set

</span></font></span></p>I don't expect you to walk me through it, but eventually someone will be a lot more clear, exactly showing all the steps in a pictorial or video where they take a completely stock HL Super IR version tank (not an Air-soft version), pop it open, unplug the plugs, &amp; then install a Clark board in it, getting everything to work &amp; only using the parts that were already in the tank.

~ Craig ~

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I am doing you and Clark a disservice by trying to trouble shoot this for you. I am a customer just like you, and have had little exposure to this board.. As I never had a stock Heng Long to put this in I couldn't evaluate it's total plug and play. I had already modifed the recoil and the wiring in my tank to work like a Tamiya recoil, So in my case I was not starting with a stock HL.

It says this is an optional Mod, so maybe it is not necessary. I had to do it to get mine working, but I wire up my tanks and treat the recoil like an airsoft version, and it made sense to me that I would have to isolate the recoil motor from the elevation motor, so I did it.

As I mentioned way earlier in this thread I don't really want to be involved in any trouble shooting of this Clark board. I just don't know it well enough, and I don't want to give wrong advice.. Clark should be the go to guy on this. IF you are having issues email Clark and ask for some help. The RCTR forum has mulitple users of this board. They may also be able to offer you assistance in this regard. Frank has posted in this thread and he has this board operational in a tank. He may be able to give you some advice.

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Like Dan, I have got a servo re-coil so I can't help you with a HL re-coil Craig.[:o]
I've mentioned earlier how good the servo set-up is and it's not difficult to install.
For a couple of bucks get a micro servo, cut the gears off your recoil unit, stick the servo on, plug in.......totally transformed tank.
Here's a pic of the one we did on Keiths KT.
It's not pretty but it works a treat.
http://i789.photobucket.com/albums/y...s/IMAG0060.jpg

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Well, one just announced will be rcTABU's Taipan board, follow the link to read some more about it.

First glance price expectations place the range somewhere below $150.

~ Craig ~

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

For those that haven't looked at the site craig ( Badass)has posted
Here are the features of the Taipan

<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Modular system[/b](pick and chose what you need to best suit your tank) &ndash; thus you can use the system for 1/16th scale up to 1/6th[/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">8 Channel 2.4 gHz operation[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Brushed and Brushless motor suport[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Two sound generating systems[/b]&ndash; one system specifically for the motor the other for the weapons &ndash; all sounds user changeable and available sound sets on micro SD cards &ndash; unlimited sound choice[/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Vehicle momentum according to weight class[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Volume control via your transmitter[/b](not a knob on the tank)[/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Fully proportional control over turret rotation and gun elevation[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">&lsquo;True Recoil&rsquo; servo action[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Enhanced IR battle functions with Bergepanzer repair[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Flakpanzer modes[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Light control for headlight, reversing and aux (notek) lights[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">WiFi connectivity to your iPad or Android device to display Tank Battle Status[/b][/list]<ul style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 1.5em; padding: 0px; color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', 'Lucida Grande', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; ">Able to be easily upgraded by the end user[/b][/list] I believe this will be the best board regardless of any others. The features alone stand out above anything else on the market.
and by the way because the majority of the features come from existing tried and true product we know it will be stable meaning you won't have issues like brown outs.

For anybody in North America I will take pre orders with a satisfaction gaurantee offered and supported by me, just send mail to: [email protected]

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I wasn't much interested in it until I read about the WiFi Tank status report back to Tablet. Now I am. Again we will have to wait and see. As I have stressed all along these systems need to be built to a standard that allows them all to play together. I have to believe the developer of this board understands the importance of co -existing with the established systems out there.

The Heng Long market generally wants inexpensive, and that is why the TK 20 will be so popular. This Tiapan board is catering to a slightly different market I would think, and is bringing some interesting concepts with it. Definately aimed at the EL MOD and Upscale Benedin stuff that can be used in 1/8 scale tanks.

I love all the diversity, but this market is small. I really don't know if there is a volume of sales for this stuff for the developers to get their money back. You don't want to tie up much capital in a device that is going to be eclisped by something else better and cheaper in 6 months time.

I also see the traffic on these boards diminishing. I grew up in the slot car craze of the 60, and saw how fast that market evaporated.

As a fringe hobby we are very lucky we have these people spending time and money on these developments.

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

Freaky


When is this going to be ready for shipment.?

What battle systems is it competitiive with?

How many channels do you NEED to run this.?

What is the retail price?

Does it slow down the tanks when they have been hit?

What is the status on the Mamba board that was going to enhance the current MAKO boards ?

RE: Clark electronics TK20
 

I posted the very short introduction of the new Taipan board, providing only a link for others to follow to find more information about it, because someone had asked about new boards. The reason I didn't post any more detailed information here is because I don't believe this is really the thread to be discussing the Taipan in any detail at all, as it would take the thread off its intended topic, discussing &amp; helping members interested in the Clark boards.

To serve the forum &amp; the Taipan board more appropriately, it should be discussed in its own personal thread if members have questions &amp; want to discuss its progress, features, &amp; other various aspects of it in any kind of detail.

I would say to everyone else who is truly interested in wanting to find out more about the Taipan board &amp; discuss it in more detail, to please go to a new thread I have just opened up on the forum specifically for it, right here =&gt; rcTABU TAIPAN discussion thread, or possibly follow the original Taipan thread over on RCTanksAustralia right here =&gt; Taipan

~ Craig ~