Gearboxes.
 

Help me wrap my head around these for a bit.

Not the top of the line stuff, I'm trying to fit something into the 38(t) kit. I worked on some kit track links and I think they'll hold up fine, it'll just be a tedious job to drill out 5 holes on each by hand (the slightest use of speed will distort the horns). For giggles, I hooked up Tamiya's dual motor gearbox for their 1/35 series to a RX-18. It worked great, but at 7+ volts, i doubt those little motors would last even if they were strong enough to move this kit.

Promaxx makes a 180 that runs on 7.2, which would be a good option and Tamiya makes a bunch of project gearboxes in all different gear ratios.

You guys mention ratios in the 3:1 and 4:1 range as being the target. And as I understand it, thats reducing the motor speed for more torque and manageable output. Promaxx makes gearboxes in the same ratio but it's for props and it's only one large gear off the pinion.

Any suggestions on what to look for smaller (plastic okay, probably preffered) gearboxes that could take a motor compatible with RX-18 output?

RE: Gearboxes.
 

I plan on using sealed gearboxes from a 24th scale tank, as well as the elevation and traverse units, probably a HL donor.;)

RE: Gearboxes.
 

What about 1/25 gearboxes from a Tamiya or Academy motorized tank kit? I've seen them for $30+ on Ebay. Most come with metal gearboxes.

RE: Gearboxes.
 

Academy's plastic gears might be okay (as long as we're with the same voltage) but the Tamiya 1/25th gears I believe are stamped metal and are very noisy and wear out fast.

I think the 1/24 sealed boxes may be the way to go. I may be looking into those for my FT. [:o]



~ Jeff

RE: Gearboxes.
 

Yellowshaker gave me the heads up on a robot supply place.

I found a small, high torque metal geared motor in the voltage and rpm range that should work. The size is perfect since they are designed for small robots, I'll keep you guys posted when they arrive and I can play with them.

I have an old DBC 2 chip, RX-18 and a bunch of motors and servos, hopefully I'll have a possible battler here. The only issue would be sound, but I guess I could use the HL setup or get a small board for the RC2. I'm not going Benedini here. ;)

RE: Gearboxes.
 

I'm looking for a gearbox in the same rough size for a on-the-drawing-board german halftrack build I'm dreaming up for combat.

What I've read so far are the 1/24 VS Tank gears or 1/18 Millennium Toys sealed gearboxes... but I've yet to find a source for either on their own.

Where can I find VS Tank gearboxes?

RE: Gearboxes.
 

Here's a suggestion. What about two small metal geared servos with the control board and limiter stop removed?
Small powerful and compact gearboxes of all sizes right at your fingertips.

Jerry

RE: Gearboxes.
 

Jerry, that's a great idea, I'm sure there are sailing winch type of servos that would serve perfectly if the voltage isn't an issue. I guess you could skip the esc board and just go direct from Rx too.

I have the geared motors on the way, I'll see what they look like. They're 1.45" long (the 38(t) is around 3" inside at the final drive) and 5/8 " wide. The kit has three panels making up the front glacis plate, so there's just enough room to squeeze the motor and stay on axis if the two inner plates are cut.

At least that's my plan.

Now I just need to drill out another 30 sprues wrth of links. The first two took me about 20 minutes each, so I guess it's going to be a long haul. Since it's mindless and repetitive, I'll most likely do it while crapped out watching TV, hopefully three or so in one sitting.

RE: Gearboxes.
 

Ausf,

What is the liklihood that some manufacturer is at this moment is planning on doing functioning metal upgrades for the 38(t) like sprockets and track at least? I may just have to buy one of the kits, too, if that is the case.

Rich

RE: Gearboxes.
 

Hey Rich,

No idea on that, I know I couldn't. Maybe someone can ask Fruil or that the kits sells enough that they jump in. My Xion Kettenkrad links are metal with plastic drive sprocket and it works fine.

The best I could pull off would be industrial resin, but I think with the number of connection points, the kit pieces are as sturdy or better than HL Pz III/IV links. In terms of wearing from abrasion, I don't think there's going to be enough weight to cause any unless you're running on rough concrete or something. I drybrushed the plastic WSN links with Vallejo oily steel, then coat with resin and pigment for mud and that finish will last a long time on dirt and grass before it wears to plastic.

http://www.ausfwerks.com/z/34ta.jpg