T18E2 Boarhound WIP
 

This was the start of my T18E2 Boarhound project ------ on day 1.

This is my progress so far ------ on day 35 I skipped a few of the daily progress photos (days #2 to #34) to save space. I may have a detail photo to post if there is something you are curious about.

My question to myself is.... What model has TOO MUCH detail ????

My answer to myself is .... This One.!!!!

The more I got done on this thing, the more I discovered there was to do. It's no wonder there were only 30 real ones made, and all were transferred to the UK for them to use. These vehicles were complicated enough to be German. They had two separate engines and drive trains, and two or four wheel drive options for each drive train. The front four wheel steering is functional on my model, and I think the servo I have is strong enough to operate it ok when running.

On the real thing the turret and the front end were sand castings, and I should have painted them with that textured spray can paint before I did all of the details, there are some details that don't want a cast finish I have experimented with a way to correct that now, and I hope it will work. We shall see .....

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Beautiful Rex, love it.....;)

I'm experiencing tears of joy...

Oh armored cars... this is amazing :)

How are you linking the twin rear wheels so they have suspension? Chain / gear?

Rex why oh why do you keep slapping me in the face with all the detail???? :rolleyes: Absolutely beautiful !!!!

[QUOTE=Rustytrax;11834166]How are you linking the twin rear wheels so they have suspension? Chain / gear?[/QUOTE

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I think I will be able to rig up the rear wheels for 4 wheel drive with a gear train that I can put together. Or, I may put in a separate motor and tranny just like the one I have. I assume two of the same model motors will run at the same speed if I wire them in parallel. If I do a suspension, it will be a simple, crude mickey mouse type of thing ..... I haven't thought about rear suspension at all yet. I guess I could mount the trannys on a common floor plate that had a pivot in the middle that they could rotate on, or something like that ......... now ya got me thinking !!!!

Hi Rex.
Very Nice. Re - These vehicles were complicated enough to be German. - nah, not angular enough, way too many curves, but over engineered enough to be Brit issue.

Mal

OMG another masterpiece Rex

Rex why oh why do you keep slapping me in the face with all the detail???? Maus

Hey .... I started to slap myself in the face near the finish of this project wondering why I started it to begin with. Now I gotta texture the turret and front end and paint it.

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Very Nice. Re - These vehicles were complicated enough to be German. - nah, not angular enough, way too many curves, but over engineered enough to be Brit issue.
Mal

Hey #2.... The Germans did a non angular armored car with way too many curves before WWII. I think I may give it a try for a change,..... it has no rivets and darn few details!


http://forum.warthunder.com/index.php?/topic/147221-marigrus-arw-mannschaftstransportwagen-i-tier-1-premium-armored-car/


click on "spoilers / show " under the "PICTURES" title.

Incredibly awesome Rex! Spectacular detail work no question. Can't wait to see final paint and then some video perhaps?

You have given me incentive to try something down the road...Thank you...:-)

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I will attempt to give the turret and front end a cast finish this weekend, then paint it. A video might happen when I figure out how to do that. Right now I don't have a clue about what is involved in making and posting a video.

If you want to start scratch building or doing conversions, start small and go from there. This Boarhound is the result of about 20 years of "learning experiences". Here is my first build, a small mortar.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2011231

It was such a grand and glorious success that I built a bigger and better one !!!!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2011232

Thanks Rex, I should have been a little clearer, I have been modding tanks for 40 years so no issue there. I am just new to 1/16th RC.
I meant more to take on an RC armoured car. I am thinking Puma and full IR... not quite as many rivets and bolts as your Boarhound! LOL!

Are you going to try a surfacer application for the casting? I'll be interested to see what you decide on a "finished" piece.

Make it easy shoot the video and upload to Youtube and just put the link here. :-)

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Do an R/C full I/R Puma .... Please !! ..... I did one a long time ago and have always regretted it is just static. I have experimented with doing a cast surface by painting a section and sprinkling very fine sand on it while it is still wet. The process isn't quite that simple but it works for me with a little bit of luck. Experimenting with textured spray paint by spraying it into a cup and then painting it on with a brush worked out pretty good on a test piece. Whatever texturing I do has to avoid the smooth rolled steel parts and details.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2011254http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2011255

Have you ever tried Mr. Surfacer? That is what I use for all my turrets and cast parts. It is painted on but you stipple it with an old brush. I like your idea but a lot tougher! :-)

I'll try it. Mr. Surfacer 500 looks like the one I want........

Hi Rex
That Magirus ARW is a whole order of ugly - https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=ma...w=1549&bih=698 - the Wehrmacht would have been too ashamed to deploy it. Their 'rep' would have taken too large a hit.
Re the cast surface effect, I've found that What-a-Job (bedliner) works quite well too. They even send out free samples - though you have to pay shipping - http://www.chirienterprise.com/Job-I...ob-Indust.html - The smooth version is best, the anti-slip version - a bit too uber.

Mal

Rex,
Where did you get the TU's with motors from. I'm still looking for the best way to RC my 1/18 scale German Halftracks? Did you cast your own tires from the rubber casting stuff from Micromark??

Thanks for sharing and of course fantastic work.

Jim

Yep, 500 is the ticket. Don't use a good brush to stipple it. It doesn't have a lot of work time either so be quick about it! But the finished result is pretty good not overboard like some other methods I have seen...

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Jim .....
I got the T/U with motors from ArtisticHobbies.com in Texas. Very good people, prices, delivery. It was a replacement part for a 1/24 scale R/C tank. I don't know the manufacturer or part number. The latex I used for the tire is from Micro-mark. I am really happy with it and I still have good molds that are very old ... and still good. They have a thinner, rubber to rubber mold release and color pigments also.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2011613http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2011614

Rex

P.S. I just remembered. It was a VS tank product.

Beautiful work Rex, great detail, many of us here can help you with the video when you get ready to shoot it and post it.

Steve

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Thanks Steve I may ask for help on that. I always think something will be difficult until I try it. Then I think to myself, "Gee, that wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be". Except for the time I tried brain surgery............"Oooops"

Here's my textured finish that is supposed to look like a sand casting..........


Uhhhhh ...... sometimes things don't turn out like I think they should. That is true of this Boarhound project..... (that is also true of my financial investments and my love life, but I don't want to talk about those two disasters right now)...........


This cast hull method turned out to be a big goof up. The sand cast texture of my turret looks more like it was done in a gravel mold than a sand mold. But I think I have discovered a way to build paper model tanks that look like they are cut out of medium grade sandpaper. Yes!!! Positive thinking is the answer to screwing up !!!! ..... Hey ..... I think that qualifies me to run for a political office !!!!


I removed the paint and sand coating from the turret by soaking it in mineral spirits (enamel paint thinner), It was easily removed from the resin and plastic with a tooth brush after 24 hours. No big damage to anything. Now I can redo the finish and I hope I do it right next time.


I set this project aside for awhile and I hope to get back to finishing the Boarhound soon.


If I don't do it right, I'm gonna build a diorama, set fire to the boarhound, and pretend it was a battle field Molotov cocktail casualty.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2014999http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2015000http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2015001

Rex,
You are a genius, you found a way to make your own custom sandpaper. What grit would you say that was, about 80? Actually it didn't look too bad if you had a way to kind of blend it a little, you might be able to get it to look a bit closer to these Shermans.
Steve
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I could have saved that finish if it didn't have all of the small details on it that didn't want to look like a sand casting. I shouldn't have installed all of the detail stuff. I have done that finish before on a bare naked turret by rubbing and sanding down the rough high texture, and applying a few coats of thick paint to smooth/level the surface down a bit . I just goofed up --------- big time.
rex

Rex, I use Mr. Surfacer 500 for most cast effects and 1000 for that pitted rolled steel look you can find on Tiger II and Panther Tanks. In general I use a sponge technique to apply the Mr. Surfacer. The sponge material has sort of a micro bubble or pit look to it. I guess a better way to discribe it is the holes in the sponge will determine how cast or pitted the surface will look. also the amount of Mr. Surface used will effect the look as well. I used an old Bandai 1/15 StuG fighting compartment to get my technique down. I have also used a stiff tooth brush to get a more pitted and scratched look by stabbing the tooth brush into the surface.

Here is the site I found that put me onto this method. The guy is using it on Gundams but the process is the same for
Armor/Tanks. First he shows a process using liquid cement and a tooth brush and then he shows the sponge process with Mr. Surfacer. I have done the liquid cement method but I like the Mr.Surfacer sponge/tooth brush process better.:cool:

http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1417