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-   -   Panzer IV upgrade, roadwheels & new Komodo+ (a Squad Video) (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tanks-369/11607342-panzer-iv-upgrade-roadwheels-new-komodo-squad-video.html)

Max-U52 11-30-2014 05:43 PM

Panzer IV upgrade, roadwheels & new Komodo+ (a Squad Video)
 
Hey Fellas,

I've been at it again, and this time I got some metal roadwheels and return rollers for my Imex/Taigen Panzer IV from Imex and the new Komodo+ from Kevin down at rctanksaustralia. As always, you really should click on full screen to watch these because it makes a huge difference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIu5ZNYQ7-s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDlGmMKD5TA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XASZk_R_hbM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JW3C5yqoRg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfNxJmIhLUs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OT9m0cYNr54 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSIsnoh9H8A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLMcyLtnKOw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LqwfSOu_HU

philipat 12-01-2014 03:55 AM

Nice videos. I hope the press fit wheels hold for you. Mine on the PzIII don't; so, I'll be using a glue.

Upgrade the headlights now. They're basically a direct replacement. Wouldn't take too long. ;)

Max-U52 12-01-2014 05:31 AM

Really glad you like them, Philip.

Yeah, my mato PIII has the same problem with roadwheels needing glue, but these wheels seem to have a much better fit. They kind of have a small boss in the side to aid in holding the piece in place so I really don't think I'll have trouble like I do on the mato. I think if I tried to take them back apart it would be quite a task, as they really are firmly attached.Naturally I'll be keeping a close eye on them for quite a while.

I may still upgrade the lights before I get ready to paint, but I have a lot of other tanks screaming for attention so it may wait a while. I picked up a ZTZ-99A that needs attention, the IR tigers are screaming for anti track recoil, and the Tauschpanzer keeps sayin' it wants a whole new metal lower hull! Darn tanks just won't leave me alone. Nag, nag, nag. :)

strmnd54 12-01-2014 07:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Don't know why tank manufacturers are still using "white" leds for their WWII tanks instead of "warm white"; since both leds are the same price :http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051404

Cruiser133 12-01-2014 07:41 AM

I wish Taigen would come out with a all metal lower on the PZIV chassis like the PZIII and Stug. I have a Jagdpanzer IV L70/A upper that needs a quality lower and the Asiatam is tempting but shipping is expensive! I bought the Taigen metal wheels for my other Jagdpanzer and I could not get the press fit to hold so I ended up using a tab of CA.

CHIEFSONN 12-01-2014 12:34 PM

Gary very nice videos and well explained on how to. there is also another way to remove the recoil jerk. I had done this and I had used two RX 18 boards, one board you will keep all the wires in there proper spots except the motors for the gear boxes,thous will bee removed and will be used on the second board. and on the second RX one you will plug the motors to there proper place, along with an additional receiver wire that being the( green white and blue) I believe if my memories is correct. and that you will jump /connect them together on the receiver. I did like the Komodo though but that wasn't available then.



CHIEFSONN 12-01-2014 12:34 PM

Cruiser where did you get the L70/A and how long ago did you get it?

Cruiser133 12-01-2014 12:53 PM


Originally Posted by CHIEFSONN (Post 11928744)
Cruiser where did you get the L70/A and how long ago did you get it?

It is an old Profiline kit bashed to a HL upper PZIV hull. I found it on Ebay from a German seller about 6 months ago....Needs a lot of work.. :)

Max-U52 12-01-2014 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by strmnd54 (Post 11928539)
Don't know why tank manufacturers are still using "white" leds for their WWII tanks instead of "warm white"; since both leds are the same price :

Hey, Norm, Erik was just telling me that yellow works a lot better than the bright white. I might give that a try.

Thanks Chief, glad you liked them. I wonder if your anti recoil method will work with the imex boards? None of my tanks run the RX-18. I did, however, just score a Turnigy 9X so I'm about to start exploring the wonderful world of hobby grade electronics. :) I'm kinda looking at the Mako/RC2TG from RC Tanks Australia for the onboard stuff. I also need to pick up some more receivers so I can run multiple tanks with the same TX. Did you get a little surprise in your mailbox today? :)

CHIEFSONN 12-01-2014 05:51 PM

Yes I Did Gary,WOW are they sweet. great job thank you & Ill get you the postage I owe to you. right now I am going to be trying the Clark board, (the TK 35 its a very small board) designed for 1/35 but was told it will work and preform well with my build. that i's my scratch built DickerMax. There is also the TX 22 that can be purchased from Immortal hobbies, and for the transmitter I'm still debating on what transmitter and receiver I will get. I looking for one with at least a 6 channels,can be programmed to run multiple tanks, where as the receivers don't coast an arm and a leg, but if they are to take my legs they will get the replacement knees with them LOL.

Any suggestions guys on a good choice for a transmitters

philipat 12-01-2014 06:57 PM


Originally Posted by maxu52 (Post 11928905)
Hey, Norm, Erik was just telling me that yellow works a lot better than the bright white. I might give that a try.

When I upgrade headlights, I install warm white LEDs in them. I've been using SMDs because they are smaller and I'm confident will fit into the headlight assemblies. I don't know if they work better but they're historically more accurate. ;)

HL probably still uses the white ones because of contractral obligations with a supplier and because they're selling toys and not historically accurate models. Most people now-adays naturally associate headlights with the whiter lights that have been around for the last 10-20 years. So, they probably expect to see white headlights and HL delivers. :)

Gary, the head light swap could probably be done in an hour (two tops). Unsolder the old ones from the junction board, use some CA debonder to release them and pop them out, glue in the metal ones and resolder them to the junction board. One less tank nagging at you. And, it will look better. :cool: (assuming you're okay with whatever LEDs are already in the metal headlights)

strmnd54 12-01-2014 07:18 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I use warm white 3 mm flat top for my headlights; mainly because the small size makes them easier to fit in the housing...:)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051515 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051516 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051517 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051518 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051519

philipat 12-01-2014 10:57 PM


Originally Posted by strmnd54 (Post 11929040)

Those look good! When I was doing my search I didn't find any "flat top" LEDs. Most everyone seemed to have done that by grinding down their existing LEDs. I'll have to look for those next time I need LEDs.

strmnd54 12-01-2014 11:23 PM

I got mine on e-bay like 3 years ago and still have quite a bit left: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100-x-3mm-Fla...item2a15b51957

If you don't want that many, just P.M. me your mailing address and I'll send you some...:)

Airbrushler 12-01-2014 11:39 PM


Originally Posted by strmnd54 (Post 11929166)
I got mine on e-bay like 3 years ago and still have quite a bit left: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100-x-3mm-Fla...item2a15b51957

If you don't want that many, just P.M. me your mailing address and I'll send you some...:)

Wow you get 100 for like $4.45C ...:cool:

strmnd54 12-01-2014 11:44 PM

Yup! I think I paid around $6.00 CAD and used around a dozen of them...So if anybody needs some...;)

Max-U52 12-02-2014 05:58 AM


Originally Posted by CHIEFSONN (Post 11928989)
Any suggestions guys on a good choice for a transmitters

I just got a Turnigy 9X from hobby king for about $85 delivered to my door. They say it's a pretty good one and I know it's the same radio both of my main tank Gurus use so I think it was a good deal. I'll know for sure once I learn how to use it! :)

Hey Norm, I'd like to try a couple of those LEDs so please earmark a set for me, and I have some stuff to send to you as well. I'll PM after work today.

kizwan 12-02-2014 06:08 AM

Turnigy 9x is popular radio. I tried to get one but it always out of stock at everywhere I look. I have Walkera 7 channel radio but I don't know it's compatible or not.

Gary, have you decided which electronics you're going to use in your tank(s)?

YHR 12-02-2014 06:09 AM


Originally Posted by CHIEFSONN (Post 11928989)
Yes I Did Gary,WOW are they sweet. great job thank you & Ill get you the postage I owe to you. right now I am going to be trying the Clark board, (the TK 35 its a very small board) designed for 1/35 but was told it will work and preform well with my build. that i's my scratch built DickerMax. There is also the TX 22 that can be purchased from Immortal hobbies, and for the transmitter I'm still debating on what transmitter and receiver I will get. I looking for one with at least a 6 channels,can be programmed to run multiple tanks, where as the receivers don't coast an arm and a leg, but if they are to take my legs they will get the replacement knees with them LOL.

Any suggestions guys on a good choice for a transmitters

Here is the radio I recommend.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2_Mode_1_.html

6 channel with channels 5 and 6 being proportional. I use one of these for servo elevation control, and the other to pan an onboard camera. Extra receivers are less the $10. For tanks this is all you need. It is programmable through your computer so you can do all kinds of channel mixing and end point adjustments. Remember to get the programming cable for $4.00. So it doesn't take a lot of money to get proper RC control. I have used this radio with zero problems, Highly recommend it. You can buy a shareware programming program that is user friendly and it simplifies all the programming options without having to fiddle around with a small LCD screen and on board button arrays.

It however does not support multiple tank memories. Over the years I have found this is not a big issue. All my tanks are programmed pretty much the same way, and I don't need a bunch of special setups between tanks. I have a Spektrum radio with the multiple features, but I hardly use it anymore as I am more then happy with the HK T6a with the proportional channels on 5 and 6. It just fits a tankers needs and for less then $30 it can't be beat.

Max-U52 12-02-2014 06:39 AM


Originally Posted by kizwan (Post 11929269)
Turnigy 9x is popular radio. I tried to get one but it always out of stock at everywhere I look. I have Walkera 7 channel radio but I don't know it's compatible or not.

Gary, have you decided which electronics you're going to use in your tank(s)?

Is that the Devo7? I know those are compatible and can be used with FPV.

I'm leaning heavily towards the Mako/RC2TG system from Kevin at RC tanks australia. Right now I'm learning about the radio and I need to get it set up for tankER9X.

Imex-Erik 12-02-2014 06:55 AM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Cruiser133 (Post 11928549)
I wish Taigen would come out with a all metal lower on the PZIV chassis like the PZIII and Stug. I have a Jagdpanzer IV L70/A upper that needs a quality lower and the Asiatam is tempting but shipping is expensive! I bought the Taigen metal wheels for my other Jagdpanzer and I could not get the press fit to hold so I ended up using a tab of CA.

I looked into this a while back and I couldn't get a few lower hull items... However, this may change in the future for at least one of the items mentioned above :) I am trying guys!

Originally Posted by strmnd54 (Post 11929040)

That looks good! I was just talking with Gary on warm white/yellow LEDs and a project I was planning :) I have a ton of LED strips but none would be good for the tanks as I don't want to cut down the strip for just a few lights. I order most of my LEDs from lighthouseleds.com, it might cost a hair more but they have a pretty good selection of holders and such when I need them for the quads or cars.

Also Gary, your mods are getting more and more useful my friend ;) I enjoy your videos, keep it up.
Edit: I also freaked out when I seen the pt2 of the install when the return rollers didnt fit the screw! I pulled 5 random boxes and they all fit, although barely. If you push the outside wheel over the screw it will slide in and spin freely. There is a small lip on the wheel that helps with the press fit on the return roller. Here is a pic:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051611http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2051612
I have been selling the poo out of these things since we got them and it freaked me out to hear that! Were the screws you got way to big? I know it is a bit late now to offer a replacement but you know I'm good for it haha :)

Max-U52 12-02-2014 07:47 AM

No they weren't very much too big. I just spun them around the grinding wheel a couple turns and they fit right in. I only reduced the OD by maybe .005, if that. It might be that I just needed to force them past the opening but grinding them down worked well so I'm good to go. I just have this tendency to overcheck stuff for fit, so they might have just pressed on, I just didn't want to force them over the bolt for fear of splitting them.

And, yes, Erik, I know better than most that you're always good for it. :) Would this be a good time to remind you about the rubber tire? I just don't like to bother you with stuff I can take care of myself. I like to save bothering you for when I really need it. :) In this case everything worked out in the end and the PIV is running just great. A lot of guys have said I should go ahead and swap the headlights now, but I want to hold off till I get this white/warm white/yellow thing figured out. The LEDs in the lights now are OK, but I don't want to install them only to find later that I want to swap LEDs for color and then I have to take everything back apart. To me it's better to wait until I'm sure and then just do the job once. :)

kizwan 12-02-2014 08:08 AM


Originally Posted by maxu52 (Post 11929288)
Is that the Devo7? I know those are compatible and can be used with FPV.

I'm leaning heavily towards the Mako/RC2TG system from Kevin at RC tanks australia. Right now I'm learning about the radio and I need to get it set up for tankER9X.

It is Devo 7. I'm glad to hear that.

I was considering RC5HL because I have RX18 but I think I prefer a board that come with sound system. IBU2 seems like the board I'm looking for. I don't want Clark's board because it's not universal board, so to speak. I don't need to make decision now because I'm still need to fix my tanks mechanically.

rcmichael 12-02-2014 08:35 AM

Neat stuff! I am wondering why in the aircraft section there is so much other stuff like cars, tanks etc. I think everyone should be able to have a good place to search, question and support others. So don,t take this as a negative. I have just noticed an increase in other stuff lately. Have fun!

kizwan 12-02-2014 09:21 AM

Aircraft section?


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