Decal question
 

Hi Tanker Gurus:

First off a very Happy New Year to all.

Decal Question -

So, my Trumpeter Tiger looks good to my eyes and I don't want to mess it up, but it lacks the German Cross markings on the hull.

I have some old model aircraft decals which I would like to use but hate the glossy look as the tank has a somewhat flatter
finish.

Is it possible to just lightly dust the decals with matt spray prior to application? My track record with painting things is dismal at best and I don't want
to spray (ruin) the entire tank but would like to minimize the gloss on the decals.

As I only have two decals of the proper size I thought I would seek advice before consigning them to the trash.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers,
Old Fatman

[h=2]Try this old fatman
Surface preparation[/h]It is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. If the model is painted with matt/flat paints, then the surface needs to have a couple of thin coats of gloss varnish, or Klear/Future to give it some shine.
Matt/flat paints leave a surface that is microscopically rough. If a decal is applied to such a surface then it will only make contact with the high points on the surface of the paint. When dry there will be thousands of microscopic air pockets under the decal which will appear as ‘silvering’ and will look terrible.
Some modellers will only varnish those parts of the model where decals are to be placed, but there is a danger of producing a ridge at the edge of the varnish. Most modellers will varnish the entire model because this is not only needed for decal application, but also makes it easier to apply filters and washes to the model.
The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate varnish.

The best way I've found to apply decals us to paint the area in a clear gloss first. This gives a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to and reduces the chance of "silvering" which is that shiny look they get from tiny air bubbles trapped under the surface. Once the decal is on and dry give the whole thing a hit with dullcote or some other clear matt spray.
I'd also recommend you google Future floor wash as there are some good ways to use it with decals that give some great results. I've used it instead of clear gloss to paint the surface and also painted it over the applied decal and had no silvering at all. It's a very versatile product that has a lot of uses in modeling.

Beat me to it CHEIFSONN. Great advice :)

Hi CHIEFSONN:

Thanks for the input.

My painting experience is littered with ruined projects - runs, drips, sags, overspray, holidays, orange peel, paint that never dried, etc.

I may just give it a miss. Was hoping to add the small German crosses just below the turret to the sides of my Trumpeter Tiger. Trumpeter left them off
for some reason (cost, political correctness, oversight, who knows?).

I Have seen a lot of different locations and sizes for the crosses on the amazing models pictured on the forum. The Trumpeter Tiger has the number 122 on the turret and a web search turned up pictures of two Tigers number 121 and 123 (go figure) with the small crosses almost centered under the turret so I guess that would be correct.

I think I have far too much time on my hands!


Cheers,
Old Fatman

Hi B/Man:

Thanks for you input.

So as to not overload the forum with more of my rambling posts, see my reply to CHIEFSONN (He got there first).

Cheers,
Old Fatman

The position, size and form of the Balkenkruez varied widely between the different divisions over the war. Camo patterns and added equipment like the track cable also comes into consideration.

There's no political consideration regarding it, unlike the swastika which is illegal in some areas. My guess is whatever tank you have is modeled on an actual one that didn't have it on the hull. Trumpeter was never shy regarding decals, even releasing swastikas in kits for NA release.

In terms of the numbers, the digits just identified it's position in the company, down to which platoon and individual tank it was, mainly for radio identification and again was up to each division how and where they marked 'em. For the most part, it was a three digit system, sometimes including a letter for company command.

Hi ausf:

Thanks for the reply.

Good information. Now I don't have to fuss about the decal/paint situation.

I know that Trumpeter has a lot of very nice static models of military vehicles and am amazed that the RC version of the Tiger and the T34/85 are actually less expensive than the model kits. When you consider that they are fully built, quite nicely finished (to my eyes at least) with all add-ons already attached, motors, gearboxes and 4 channel 2.4 Ghz radios it's even more amazing.

Thanks again,

Old Fatman

Those static kits have full interiors. ;)

yes the static kits have full interior plus shells ammo boxes fully detailed engine and photo etched parts

Hi ausf:

They are amazing.

Saw a post in the back pages of a Trumpeter T-34 static model, beautifully done with fabulous detail and finish.

Some truly talented and dedicated modelers out there!

Cheers,
Old Fatman

Hi Airbrushler:

Was that your Trumpeter T34/85 static model in the back pages?

A while ago, so I don't remember the thread, but the model was beautifully executed. Amazing detail and finish.
Full interior and fantastic engine detail.

Definitely museum quality.

Cheers,
Old Fatman

sorry Old Fatman that wasn't mine i have a static and a WSN i am looking for gear boxes to start two projects but i don't have a static built might just built the engine to put it on display though

Hi Airbrushler:

I used to attempt plastic models, not on the scale of those very nice WSN models or that astonishing Dora (Not a Tank post)!

As long as I didn't attempt to paint them they were not too bad. I am only slightly better at gluing than painting. The decals, when weren't destroyed trying to get them on and correctly positioned always had that horrible clear edge thing happening. Almost looked worse than leaving them off all together.

Having ruined a lot of Revel and Monogram models has taught me to leave painting to those who can. Hence the decal post.

Happily ausf's reply has saved my Tiger from the indignity of those dreaded glossy decal blemishes!

Cheers,
Old Fatman