Applying Decals
 

Hi All. I'm looking for some advise on the best way to apply Decals I purchased from Elite Armor on my Taigen Sherman. Are there any products I should buy to make the process easier?
Thanks

Are they regular (waterslide) decals or dry transfers?

If they are plain decals, the best way is to gloss coat the area you want to cover, then apply with a setting solution like Microsol. If it needs more work to conform, like over seams or welds, use Microset on top of that. The gloss clear on top to seal. That's the best way to get the painted on look. After sealing, you can weather however you like, nothing will disturb the decal.

If they are dry transfers, just apply and then clear coat.

Thanks ausf. They are in fact Waterlide Decals. I purchased the set that has the "First in Bastogne" on the sheet. I'll pick up the Microsol and Microset and see what happens. I have tree trunks for fingers, so I really need to be careful. Wish me luck. I'll try to post a photo when I'm done

Try this. This is the FSM site. These guys are amazing.

http://www.finescale.com/Videos/How%...%20decals.aspx

You might have to sign up to watch videos. I'm a subscriber so the whole site is open to me .It's basically like our forum here, but it's all about static modeling. If you want to learn about airbrushing, brush painting, photo etch, and just about anything else related to models, this is the gold standard website.

Hi, I use Peddinghaus decals and like you dexterity is a word that is easy to spell!! but I messed up a set of waterslide fire extinguisher decals and I slid the mess into the saucer of warm water and they flattened out and went on just fine second time, I go along with Ausf with the "Microsol/Microset" unbeatable, just remember to have a flat surface for them, Matt Paint is bad news unless you prepare the surface. shaun

If you brush Microsol on the surface while the decal is soaking, it'll give your ham hands plenty of time to move it around to reposition. :)

The key is a gloss surface (Future floor finish is the best imo), which with the microsol allows for both easy movement and eliminates trapping air underneath (silvering). Then you float some Future around the edges with a brush and it'll even the surface. Once that dries, you can go over with any clear and the border of the decal will be invisible.

With Microset, you can get a decal to contour to irregular surfaces as varied as zimmerit. Jusy don't touch the decal until it completely sets. As a matter of fact, don't even look at it. Just walk away for about 8 hours. In a few minutes after brushing it on, the decal will wrinkle, bubble and become a hideous mess. You'll swear you just blew the scratch spent on the decal and solution, time spent on painting and ruined the whole thing. You'll decide the only course is to hunt down the bozo who recommended it and make him repaint the entire model. If you put that all aside and come back later, the stupid thing will be magically flat and snug.

But, the absolutely single most important thing for any decal is a gloss surface to start.

Just out of interest, has anyone here tried vinegar instead of microset?

I have used rubbing alcohol when i ran out of microset(spilled it) during a brass model train decaling. Worked ok.

One is definitely vinegar based, the other definitely alcohol based, but they're cheap enough and last so long that I haven't tested a substitute. By the way, their Crystal Clear smells more like Elmer's glue than Elmers does. ;)

Good idea to try with some old decals one day. Distilled Vinegar and Iso Alcohol are pretty darn cheap...

Applying Decals
 

:) Thanks to all for the tips. I'm learning a lot. Good Stuff !!!

Elite armour decals are the best on the market - bar none.

If you can get hold of Humbrol acrylic gloss spray this will help, it dissolves decal film to give a great finish.

Give your model a coat of Humbrol gloss (No 35), apply decals with the usual decal setting solutions, and then lightly apply more Humbrol gloss. Your decals should now look painted on if you did it right...

Now coat with Dullcoat / Tamiya flat clear spray to get rid of the shiny.

Could look like this:

http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psec0d6109.jpg

or this

http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f3d628b.jpg

Hey Martin, is that the scout car done from the torro halftrack? I'd REALLY like to know more about that. I've heard guys are taking the 1/18 halftrack and the guts from a torro halftrack and making these scout cars. Is that what you have here? If not, what is it? I don't want to hijack the thread so maybe a new thread or a PM? Thanks, Martin.

Max/Gary

Its based off the Mato / Torro chassis and front end. I had to shift the drive axle rearwards a little and extend the drive shaft, but easy enough if you buy an M2 drill and tap tool set (or 4 or 5, because you will break a lot of drill bits and tap tools in the process :mad: ) and some appropriate inner diameter brass tube to extend the drive shaft.

The rear end was built off George "F**king" Bradford's 'cartoons', and is about 10 mm too long past the rear axle compared with the real thing...

(Thanks George, for taking my money and leaving me too long with your crappy plans...:mad:)

That crooked star and wavy serial number - I take full responsibility for - looked good until I saw the pictures :(

Hi Check the transfer before you seal it , if its the same one I had its wrong there is a 4 missing. Put the 4 in before sealing it.

regards pete

P.S. Martin looks like you had a beer before you did that LOL

The elite armour set has the correct serial numbers and a lot of extra stuff like the shipping marks. Its obviously very well researched.

The Peddinghaus set is very disappointing by comparison.

No beer involved, the serial number on the M3 was done with a dry rub sheet and I didn't have enough hands to hold everything in place :eek:

Still a Great Job

http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f3d628b.jpg

Is the jumbo a Nick turret kit? looks like your flash bulb slipped a bit out the barrel, looks a tad odd.

Not sure if it's the case here, but some clubs want it that way so it can be seen from the sides. Muzzle brakes usually cover it.

^This. Also I have a few Shermans which have the recoil driven by a servo, activated thru a channel mix in the radio - the barrel might move but the IR sometimes does not fire, and if the tank is facing away from me I can't see the flash unless its poking out.
(Yes, its Nick's turret, top and trans cover)

Exactly the same for me with the T-34 76. The recoil servo always moves because it isn't proportional, but sometimes I'm too quick on the button and the MFU doesn't fire.