Jagdpanzer IV Vomag L/70
 

It's been a while since I've done anything new so here goes nuttin!

I've been collecting parts for this one for 4 years and finally the last part of the puzzle was released a few months ago,
that and the dollars to get it.

This is going to be a Jagdpanzer IV Vomag L/70.

Hen Long lower hull
Profiline JP IV upper
Asiatam gear boxes, return rollers, Steel front wheels, track tensioner, metal suspension
Aluminum L/70 barrel
And the recently released EL MOD Fusion PRO electronics

The fusion board has the drive, sound and battle system all combined into 1 board. No more 3 separate boards. The footprint
of the new fusion board is about the same as a Tami DMD unit.
Plus they have also released an adapter to use the Tamiya battle apple and emitter, so I'll be on equal footing with Tamiya
tanks!
The EL MOD system also is fully programmable for speed sound and servo use, more on that later.

I started with the Profiline resin kit and a Hen Long Panzer IV.

I first disassembled the PZ IV and removed the gears, turret, and electronics. Then cut most of the superstructure away
except for the front transmission cover. I left this on for now to keep some rigidity in the upper hull after cutting out the
engine deck. Being as I'm mating plastic to resin I had to use 2 part epoxy to glue these together
Here's some picys so enjoy http://dettankcom.org/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif

Mike http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2123855http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2123856http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2123857http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2123858

Good luck Mike. I still haven't finished my JP IV...LOL. I look forward to your build and can't wait to see it in action. It will be very low and hard to hit. BTW...I've never used the stove to cut an upper hull. How exactly does that work?

Looks great! :D

Wish I had never sold my kit but my advice is to not cook and build at the same time!




Jeff

When using the stove as a primary work surface, you only use the burners on the lowest heat setting so you can control the cutting edge of the primary removal doomaflatcher without to much collateral damage to the removed parts. The rest of the hull however is toast! LOL. It is looking good mike.

Herman

Great start. Looking forward to this build. You're at the great spot to correct the angle of the rear deck and put on the correct tread plate to the fenders.

You guys crack me up :cool:. The early stages of the build were done in 2012 and the actual work surface was the kitchen table behind the photographer. Some times being single has its advantages.
Anyway here's some more pics as I progressed back then. It took a lot of trial and error figuring to get things line up and looking right. I also decided early on the I wanted traverse in this little monster so surgery was required on the gun mount, as in total removal of it. One hole drilled in the top of the casting and bend up a brass sheet trunion and it has traverse.
The resin kit parts require a lot of filing to get them right so beware of this if you have this kit, or obtain one as the case may be, since profiline is no longer in business.
As far as the deck angle goes I'm going to leave it flat and the fender tread pattern won't matter. you we see why later......hint hint

Mike

You can use whatever background you want, I was only having a little fun. More likely I'm jealous. :o

I sold mine off because I thought the length of the barrel would be a problem in battling. I don't really battle so much now and I wish I still had it. :(

BUT... it will be cool to see yours built right here! :cool:




Jeff

I have one I am working on. Profiline JagdPanzer IV L/70 as well. Jeff you could have made your's an JagdPanzer IV L/48?:cool:

Yeah ya know, I really never thought of that but REALLY loved the 'Lang' so much I wasn't thinking straight. :rolleyes:




Jeff

Jeff,

No offense was taken, I thought all the ribbing from You, Bob and Herman was funny. My thought process got side tracked writing the reply. What I didn't include was that a short time ago my daughter talked (conned) me into moving her upstairs. So with an open room on the main floor I moved all my train and tank modeling stuff into it. Now I have my models, parts, tools and computer all in one place :cool:.

OK, onward with the build....

After carefully measuring and fitting the wedge shaped nose I cut off the front of the PZIV, then glued the new front on with 2 part epoxy. I also fit the metal suspension onto the hull along with metal return rollers. I have a book on German closed top tank destroyer that gives the phases and rough dates for changes so this one will have 4 steel return rollers, regular PZIV muffler, front 2 rubber saver wheels on the front along with the fix all of bad body work- zimmerit!

I used the HL rubber wheels in the other 6 positions and a word about the asiatam metal suspension. It comes with self tapping screws that are useless, they break too easily. I ash canned them and tapped the holes, unfortunately in my advanced age I don't remember what size I used:mad:. OOPS. Maybe I should write these things down, but then I'd lose the note somewhere, life's dilemmas. More pictures below.


Mike

I assume the self-tapping screws are the ones on the axles. An option you could consider is to send the boggies and the wheels to HennTec. He cuts off the axles, replaces them with a steel shaft, and adds brass bushings to the wheels. The wheels are then held in place with C-clips. It's a bit pricey, but he does great work. I had those done on mine.

There is someone else in Germany that will do the same work but install bearings instead of bushings. But, for the life of me, I can't find where I stored the link. Edit: Found it...MK Modellbau (http://mk-modellbau.de/main_bigware_...y-ww2-panzer-4).

GREAT!!! Where did you get the L70 Alum. Barrel from?

That looks really great and my hats off to you guys who can do zimm!!! :cool:

BTW... what do you use for it?




Jeff

Actualy ExPattanker ordered it a few years ago for me(thanks, Mart). I'm pretty sure it came from tank modellbau.
Here's the link

http://tank-modellbau.de/eng_207/7_5cm_KwK_42_L_70

Mike

[QUOTE=Panther F;12111316]That looks really great and my hats off to you guys who can do zimm!!! :cool:

BTW... what do you use for it?

Jeff,


I use 2 part Milliput and an exacto #16 blade held at an angle. It's tedious and time consuming but comes out good.

Mike

Getting back to that oven thing.... If you used a microwave?....wouldn't this build be done faster.

I have my uses... :cool:

Thank you ETO... I went to Tank Modellbau and picked up one .... I am looking forward to seeing more of your build.....

More than just that Mart, your a great chauffeur on long trips and great fun as a team mate:cool:

Neither one works very well unless you want a big lump of plastic:mad:

Here's a few close ups of the idler, return and front road wheels. I added bearings to the idler wheels.

Mike

Don't forget that the late JPIV's only had 3 return rollers :cool:

Right you are Martin, but this one is being built as an early mid production model which according to the chart in The modeler's Guide to Jagdpanzer book I have came so equipped. 4 return rollers, steel front wheels, standard PZIV muffler and Zimmerit.

Mike

As I said earlier I've had this for a while and after a while I resigned myself to using Tamiya electronics for a PZIV. Nothing wrong with this except the main gun sound wouldn't be correct (wimpy sounding!). Here are some pics of the original elevation/ traverse set up I made.
It turned out the base was too flimsy and then ElMod came up with the new boards so this was reworked later.

Mike

When ELMOD came out with the fusion boards they came in 2 versions, ECO and PRO. The Pro version allows for more lights and options and the use of 3 servos. The ECO version only has provisions for 1 servo. Seeing as how I wanted the proper engine and main gun sound and servo recoil, elevation and traverse using the PRO board became a no brainer for me.

The first pics show what comes with the pro board kit, including the Tamiya adapter that allows the use of the Tamiya battle apple and IR emitter.

The second set shows the reworked elevation, traverse and recoil set up with a thicker base plate, thus less flex of the pieces.

Mikehttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128735http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128736http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128737http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128738http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128739http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128740http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2128741