Maintenance?
 

Is there any kind of expected or required maintenance I should be doing on my new Taigen metal tank? Couldn't glean a lot of info from the included instructions. I realize the obvious keeping things clean and dry part, as I am OCD about detailing my cars almost on a daily basis.

Does anything require lubing or oiling, or taking apart on occasion to clean? Want to keep my tank as perfect as possible, while still enjoying it outdoors as much as possible. Any tips appreciated.

GRIT!!! Kills Tanks,
A decent bulkhead between the gearboxes and the rest of the hull so that your regular but sparing application of Lithium grease to the gearbox bearings while keeping the gears clean and free of GRIT won't spray over the electrics.
Regular tightening of the axle grub screws, look for track pins coming adrift, and a very close look using a glass at the control board for any signs of burning which will lead to short circuits.
shaun

thanks for input

It's a great question and you'll hear all kinds of tips. After running I check track pins and put it on the shelf. Don't over lube anything as it's a magnet for debris. I use motor oil on the gearshaft bearings and lower gears and some lithium grease on the upper gears from the motor where motor oil won't stick due to rpm's. Q tips are your friend to clean out anything in your housings. It's a tank, not a Silver Ghost.

If you do IR battle or use your tank a lot and if you run it outside you will need to take a much more serious approach to PM (Preventative Maintenance) than the tanker who runs indoors and just a few times a month for fun. Being "anal" about PM myself and having been a mechanic for 35+ years let me ask a simple question...Would you run a manual transmission or rear-end/differential in your car/truck without oil...NO.

TUs: The shafts, bushings/bearings need a easy flowing light machine oil (Never WD40) and the faces of the gears (which see much less friction and heat) need grease. Oil will be flung off gear teeth quickly with centrifugal force. Both oil and grease are needed. Drip the machine oil (needle oiler is best & spray is OK) in by tilting the tank sideways. Then work the oil in by hand rotation of the TU. DO NOT DRIVE THE MOTORS...aerosol fumes may cause a fire! Then grease the gear teeth. Hand rotate again. Remove any excess. I use white lithium grease spray with 4 inch tube tip. The lith turns dark brown when it gets dirty and the light color makes is easy to see/check for coverage.

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I have been battling my Panther for 7 or 8 years now and I have only wore out one right (at 4 1/2 years of use) and one left gearbox (at 7 years). The TUs were Tamiya and well maintained. I run it at every battle day I am now on my 4th set of tracks having worn the first three sets completely flat down to the nub. Your TUs should also be sealed off from the outside at the output shaft for the drive sprocket. I used dense foam to form a gasket type seal. Then seal off and cover the TUs from the rest of the tank. This keeps the grease and oil lube in the TU bay and the dirt out. It also keeps loose errant wires out of your gears and any screw or debris from getting into the gears and jamming them. Covers can be tape, sheet metal, clear plastic or a combination thereof. See pix.


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Tracks: Remove rocks, grass, twigs, snow etc... after each run. Hold it up and drive the tracks to cast off debris. Avoid driving in tall/wet grass, pebbles & wood chips. Some tanks have zero track pin issues and some are always headaches. Most are plastic tracks. The worst are the Tamiya Tiger I & KT(check after every battle or replace with metal tracks if you use it alot) and the HL Pzr III & IV tracks (CA the ends). Stock HL Tiger tracks are very brittle.

Wire Hygiene: Keep them neat, clean and properly routed. Don't go crazy with wire ties. Bind the wires too tight and they won't flex like the should. I use tape to keep many wires together, along with thin craft wire, and sparing use of wire tires.

Check this link: http://www.rctankcommand.com/before-...er-photos.html It will give you some ideas too.



Rotation & Elevation units: DO NOT GREASE anything pertaining to turret rotation. These are not high wear items. For Tamiya tanks, I weld all the slipper gears solid with a soldering iron on my elevation & rotation units. You can Ca them too ...or is you like to spend money, buy the Tamiya blue gears. HL/Taigen units are both sealed inside a enclosed housing. Only lube in that housing.

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Batteries: Keep them from knocking around inside and charge them outside the tank. Disconnect when not in use.


Always put your tank on a block when the battery is blipped in or working on it to prevent a runaway.

If you travel use a tool box for a carrier. Husky, Black & Decker etc... 22 inch boxes will hold most 1/16 tanks, The TX, Batteries & apple. Use padding to cover the tank and bag the radio in a large zip-lock. Remove the apple from the base (be sure tank is off) and secure it in a zip-lock or small box. My tanks travel 1100 miles round trip to Danville 5 times a year.

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PL is critical to having a reliable, clean tank which will last long and retain resale value.

See my website for some before & after pix: I rehabilitate about 50 customer tanks a year to keep them fit for duty.

ANYTHING not sealed but needs lubrication and is exposed to the elements (like suspension arm bushings) I use a graphite lubricant in powder form... http://www.ehow.com/about_6385272_gr...ubricant_.html

ALWAYS use a plastic safe oil when lubing metal components IF they are around plastic parts. Petroleum CAN cause the plastic to break down and soften, then fail.


HTH




Jeff

Second the Graphite powder as a lubricant for surfaces exposed to the elements, It does not trap dirt and debris like grease does. Great to use on a recoiling barrel to reduce friction between the sliding surfaces...

Thanks to all, for some awesome and detailed advice. Will study these posts and come up with a maintenance plan for my Tiger. Getting ready to show it off to my 11 year old grandson later today, he hasn't had a chance to see it yet.

Better be prepared to buy another very soon because he is going to want one too. NOW. Seen it over and over again. once the young ones get involved it's very hard to say no. LOL.

I would have thought so, but I turned off the gun, and let him drive it all around the yard. He thought it was neat for about 2-3 minutes, then got bored and handed me back the controller.

All of us here on RCU enjoy helping out fellow tankers. For many, this is how we learned. Too bad you grandson didn't click with the tank. Maybe in a few years??? Try a simple Lego Tank play-set. If you can join us up in Danville in two weeks and we will give you really good show. Come on up and spend the day of overnight it with us. You can try one of my Tamiya tanks in battle. If you don't like it I will give you your admission money back.

Bob, NEAD CO / RCTankCommand.com

Bob,

Thanks for the invite, would love to come, but its way out of my "being in a car tolerance" for my medical conditions. Can't really handle being in a car for more than 2 hours tops. I am certain, being new to the hobby, I would enjoy the show.

My grandson, typical of his generation, if it isn't on a computer screen, cell phone, or I-Pad, or game console - they aren't usually overly interested. I had bought him r/c cars and trucks in the past, again, no real interest. Wish kids still knew how to play with toys. That's why we of our generation are still playing with toy tanks, even big ones.

I look forward to hearing about the show, and perhaps seeing some awesome video clips and pics from the event. It's the next best thing for me.

The invitation is always open to you. A train trip might be an option too. Perhaps net year. Pix and video will be posted for those living vicariously.

Never thought about the train. There is an Amtrack station right in Greenville, wonder how near it gets to Danville, VA, if at all. Will check that out.

Amtrak has a station in Danville. Wouldn't be a problem for someone to grab you up. Food for thought this spring maybe, though looks to be a late night train.

Should one oil the tracks too? Quite new myself much like the OP, so thanks for all the above info. The times the tracks where really dirty i cleaned them in some warm water(not hot) and used a little diswashing soap and brushed them clean. But when they are just a little dusty i don't clean them, is that any problem?

Don't want to use any kind of wet lubricant outside the tank. Acts as a magnet for dirt/debris. Tracks never need lube just run in time. If anything you could use some
teflon powder, but again I've never used or heard of anyone needing to lube their tracks.

Brett has already answered this but we often drive thru water at our battle days and sometimes it can be messy. I would avoid washing the tank much. You don't want to force dirt or water into the wheel bushing/bearings. Normally just holdin the tank up in the air or atop a wood block and driving at top speed for moment in each direction will suffice. I got totally mudded at Brett's house two years ago. I washed the track (the only time I have ever done so) at the hotel room at the next Danville event. Tracks are not much of a wear item so no lube needed. Oil and lubes must be protected from debris and contained from going where not needed.

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So much for a discount at that hotel next time :)

Been a lot of great info and tips on this thread I started, hope its as helpful to other "new" tank commanders like me.