Do you think you might have a few unpainted, for those of us that like to paint them ourselves? I wouldn't even care if it's the same price as a painted tank. Mato offers unpainted for $50 less but I don't really care about that, I just want it unpainted, even if it costs a bit more that way.

Paint doesnt bother me. I will strip the metal and repaint anynway, especially whem im grinding off the split hatch. But please dont paint the mud on again and then put a star over the mud.

Is the 2.4G a must have? Is it better - I have been reading mixed opinions on this.

With 2.4 GHz you'll get better range, but more importantly, you won't be interfered with by other tanks. And, it gets rid of those metal eye-poker antennae. If you have a Heng Long 27 MHz tank you should be able to pick up a used 2.4 GHz Taigen set for about $50 or $55 delivered in the US. A brand new set also comes with a speaker and costs about $90 delivered in the US.

Thanks, I spoke to Erik at Imex yesterday and forgot to ask him about that - he did clear up many of my questions and I am now leaning toward waiting and just getting 1 of his tanks rather than 2 Heng Longs - also I may see some Taigen in person this coming Sunday which will help too but I am leaning toward an Imex Tiger 1 and getting the metal tracks at the time of purchase - have not decided on IR or Airsoft yet, but Erik said he could set me up to convert back and forth...

The star over the paint was only on the first batch, it was later corrected :) The weathering is now applied over the star and on the side decals as well. It wont happen again.
Glad we could talk! I highly suggest the steel gearboxes instead of the metal tracks though... the steel gearboxes will not only improve your driving experience (lower speed, better low speed maneuverability, smoother, etc) but it will set up the tank for any future improvements or mods you do in the future. Tracks are ok and all, but they do add a lot to the stock gearboxes. You should have no real issue, but IMO I think you would be happier with an upgraded and much stronger drivetrain than tracks. Make sure to let me know if you got any more questions ok?

I'm looking forward to the split hatch myself.

Thanks Erik,
I will certainly consider what you are saying - I have went from buying a tank to play with in a few days to more of a mindset of building a tank for a purpose in mind which I am still trying to figure out - about the only thing I know for sure is I most likely will want a Tiger 1, possibly a T-34 to start, still debating on IR vs Airsoft (depending on cost for dual) as a few other things.... I am giving myself a couple weeks to decide now just what direction I want to go (probably smart as the cost has gone way up from what I was originally thinking).

I totally agree with Erik that you should get steel gearboxes before metal tracks. Start with the basics and you can't go wrong. It's like building a house - start with a great foundation, ya know? That's why I still recommend the Imex/Taigen Tiger One, because it's the only all plastic tank out there that comes with the metal lower hull with torsion bar suspension, and trust me on this, that's a very big deal.

Plastic tracks are just fine... closed pin design is better. The MAIN reason why we change or ask for metal is to re-create the track sag which most German tanks have. The second reason is they are a bit more robust for battling than plastic (because they are driven hard) but I agree with most of the advice is to start out with plastic tracks AND get a better gearbox.

Plastic gears can and should do at first but are prone to failing than a metal design.


JMHO :cool:




Jeff

Thanks guys - I really appreciate it - no way of knowing this stuff without asking.

Well you are definitely in the right place!! Ask away my friend, I don't know of many other places that will answer honest questions without ragging on you. This forum is a great place to learn.

Their KV-1 also comes with a metal lower hull and torsion bars. I have both the Tiger and KV and they are solid runners once you upgrade the transmissions.

You might consider the 3 in 1 kit Tiger. I know it is more money then you initially stated earlier, but it gives you so many options as is and if you pick out specific others, you have unlimited potential...plus, you can build whatever you fancy - just a thought...and didn't Erik say he would hook you up???? (j/k Erik) :cool:

*DISCLAIMER - just because I am in the startup stage of this kit does not mean I have been unduly influenced here ;)

Terry

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2141233

Well guys - I am officially a tanker - found a local seller who happened to have Tiagen Tigers on sale (Thanks Dusty)... hope you don't mind Erik - Hiawatha Hobbies has them, the owner said he knows you - felt good dealing with a guy who knew someone I had talked to... now for the batteries to charge up.

I do have 1 question though - he had 2 version of the tank - he said they were identical, 1 was the tan and the other was gray - the gray one had the smoke on off under a hatch, the other one had it under the top you have to take off - is that the only difference between these? Is one model better than the other? Older / newer?

One thing I strongly suggest to do if you have the plastic tracks and they are tight is to add one link to each track. The real tigers had 96 links per track. Taigen stock tracks have 94 and it puts a strain on the front suspension arms. I tried 96 links and the tracks were too loose. I could max out the idler adjustments and it would still skip on the drive sprockets. 95 links per track proved to be the sweet spot. Allows you to adjust for proper tension where you get a droop in the track so it touches the top of the third roadwheel.

Thanks - any idea's on the smoker switch placement? Also is there a way to make it a little less touchy for turning?

Don't quote me on this but I think if the smoker switch is located under the radio operator's hatch next to the power switch and the volume control is under the driver's hatch you have a newer version. The steering issue can be caused by too much tension on the tracks. I have also noticed that 3 shaft gear boxes have a more sensitive steer than 4 shaft. A light touch on the stick also helps to reduce sensitive steering.

Isn't the knob by the machine gun switch trim for the steering?

Congrats on the tank! The 12012 is a great choice :) I'm glad you found on local, it is always better to be able to look at one first right? And yea I know the guys at Hiawatha, I was actually talking to them a few days ago. As for the volume knob, on the newest models they have been moved under the upper hull hatches to make it easier to change the volume without taking off the upper hull. There was a small change to the lower hull to reflect this, since the 12012/12013/12022 are the newest of the plastic edition Tiger 1 line they already have the update applied. The metal Tigers already have this as well. As for making turning a bit less twitchy, that is what the 4:1 gearboxes will help with. You will lose a bit of top end speed, but will gain lots of torque at the same time. Slowing down speeds along with bearings will help slow speed maneuverability a lot. This is why I suggested the gearboxes as your first upgrade as finer control will make this guy a lot easier to drive and creep around. LMK if you got any questions about model numbers ok? We do have a lot of gearboxes :)

Edit: As for track tension, it should be good as is for now. If for some reason you think you do have tight tracks try the tensioners in the back of the tank first. Look on the rear of the tank on the very bottom. You will see two phillips head screws at the back that are much bigger than the rest. These are used to adjust the track tension on the Tiger 1. There is a large amount of room to work with here for tension before you need to add a track like some of our other tanks. Just try to adjust them equally. Too tight of tracks will put tension on the gearboxes and jerk your tank to a stop while too loose can cause issues with the tracks jumping during turns and slipping off the drive wheel. This is a personal preference, but you can loosen it up a little bit from the factory to get the sagging look from the real tanks.

Thanks Erik, I must ask - how much does one have to spend on one of these for them to be considered solid and work super smoothly? Other than the gearbox (cost $$??) how much more does one usually have to spend? Is the gear box a real game changer or only minor - are there controllers that are a little less touchy, maybe a bit more feedback? for me it's still a confusing hobby - thought by not getting the Heng Long I would not have to tinker much... I know I do not intend to endlessly tinker - so for a guy like that who does not want to tinker all the time what would be your best suggestions?

The only "needed" item (and this is my opinion, others will differ) is a steel gearbox. This will future proof the tank for any future upgrades and will also give you an improved driving experience. Everything after that is all up to you. The plastic drive wheels and tracks are pretty darn strong and even with rough use you shouldnt have much issue with them. There are also other aftermarket options for the motherboard/control unit, but that is optional as well. The 4:1 speed reduction alone is a large upgrade, it doesnt have to be steel either, we do offer zinc in 4:1 for that tank as well. As for not tinkering.... it is hard with tanks. If you take care of it when you use it then you shouldnt have to tinker much at all, but as with all tracked vehicles you will have to keep an eye on those caterpillar tracks (mainly the tension and guide horns in the middle of the track) and make sure they are ok after each use.
The Tiger 1 is pretty robust. After you set it up the way you want it should be good to go for a while. Be careful though, once the tank hobby bites you it is hard to get out... just a warning :)

Thanks - The Heng Long Panther I picked up cheap on ebay arrived this morning - I guess part of what I am missing is the double the price difference since you have to replace such a key component in both - the plastics look about the same quality, the books, accessory box look nearly identical... and the tanks themselves seem fairly similar although clearly the Taigen comes with metal gears and a metal bottom plate - I have not looked at either's suspension yet - I still trust I made the right call because I did not see many recommending the Heng Longs - not saying anything other than I clearly don't appreciate the differences to this point at least, I am sure once I use them a bit more I will be able to notice or at least hope I will.

Since you don't want to spend all your time tinkering, I think you made the right call going with taigen. They are much more capable, and durable right out of the box, compared to most heng longs. Plus, even IF you have trouble, Erik is only a phone call away to get it fixed.

Thanks Roboticus, I think right now for me it's just a matter of not knowing what to look for or how to recognize the differences, especially when a part has to be purchased either way, keep in mind I am as noobie as they come to this as my first interest was more about painting and display with a secondary interest in the RC part of it.

JUST remember this... there will come a time you will need to know how to repair these and how they are assembled.

I am trying to be friendly BUT realistic at the same time. I didn't wake up one morning and know how they all went together and how to fix an RC tank. It came by digging in and asking questions.



Jeff

Thanks Jeff,

Like I said - I still think based on the recommendations here I made the right call - just saying right now I don't know why if that makes any sense.

There is no "right or wrong call" as all recommendations were and are good!

Just trying to give some encouragement, that's all. :cool:




Jeff

Thanks Jeff, The world needs more of that, that's for sure.

How do you get the sound in this tank here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja0-xYPvSvA

do you have to change all the electronics out to get that or can you just pick up one thing? I am not impressed with the sound in either tank.

Sound is where this Hobby can get very expensive. It involves aftermarket electronics. Taigen is working on their own board. Erik's being secretive about the spec's though. Lol

Seems if the hobby can be pretty expensive anyways if you want it to be - I guess most are - I probably will remain puzzled to as why one would simply not buy the cheapest starter tank possible up front if they are going to wind up upgrading nearly every working part in the tank anyways - that's not meant to offend anyone nor be sarcastic - it is from my just learned about the tanks and newbie viewpoint it is an honest question I have in my mind right now - that said as I have been saying the people who know say there is a difference, but to a novice eye - it is not easily spotted, I would get it better if no matter what you initially buy, you wind up having to replace 1/2 of it down the road anyways... still confused but at least now I have a couple in hand to go over to discover the reasons.

Yes sorry about that :) It is because we keep changing a few things here and there. I gotta make sure they are perfect before release plus we might mod the controller a bit. I promise it is coming, hopefully around Feb I should be able to give an update. I can say for sure the sounds have and are being updated. I'm even trying to get multiple layouts if possible.

so I should have waited until Feb?

It's basically what you want out of the hobby, the journey and how much you want to invest.


Do you want instant gratification? Or build it from a kit? Or start bare bones and add as you go?

The journey is how you get there. A lot like doing this as they go along and change things along the way, sort of customizing it, experimenting... it's fun for some.

Some know how much they want to spend right up front, plop the money down and have it right away... where it be a Tamiya which has an exceptional sound system and is ready for YOUR radio of choice and can add the more popular battle system to it and it's ready. Or, a Taigen tank where the work is done for you, comes with a radio and has features tankers want like metal tracks, bearings and so on...


It's a hobby. Build it yourself or pull it out of a box and add to it. Depends on what you want.





Jeff

Oh, this is good news! I think I can find the patience to wait until then. :)

Most of Taigen's upgrades are plug-and-play. I'm sure it will be just a strait swap.

So, you guys got the rights to all the sound recording they did while they had the Tiger for Fury (all 4 gigs right??)? ;)

You got that right, Bro, and tanks are no different. Here in Detroit we're also known for cars, and we like to say, "Speed costs money - How fast do ya wanna go?" and it's kinda the same with tanks. Very cool tanks cost money - How cool do you want your tank to be?

As for the upgrades, that's also kind of like cars. You buy a new Camaro and soon you want an aftermarket exhaust for better sound. Stuff like that. But with tanks there are a lot more upgrades to do, partly because the hobby is still pretty new. Think about cars in the 60s. They were pretty good off the lot, but they still had a long way to go before you took it out on any kind of track. Now the factory built muscle cars are a lot closer to being race ready than they were back then, and I imagine if you look at RC Tanks in 15 or 20 years they'll have a lot less things that need to be done to them. I could be wrong about this, but I think Imex is working towards the day when ALL their tanks will come with steel gearboxes (Please correct me if I got that wrong, Erik). But to me it makes a lot of sense to spend a bit of money at the beginning to get a better model later on. The Tiger tank you just bought is one of the best stock lower hulls on the market, and it's a great foundation to build on. My first working tank was a TAG12010 (the same tank, only yellow) and now it's the S33.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EM3imwwDm0 You made a very good choice when you bought the Imex Tiger. It's kinda like building a house - start with a crappy foundation and you'll end up with a crappy house. You've got a very good foundation, so I'll be watching with interest to see where you take it from here, and if you need help you know where to turn. :)

Thanks,

It may take a turn you would never have though of.... I planned on painting the tanks as that was my primary purpose - painting and display but I am thinking of not trying to paint and weather at least one of the tanks, for whatever reason I was looking at the Taigen in the right light and was thinking how cool it would be if were all a satin black, with Batman logos where the German insignia's are... and not the cheesy '66 batman type but turning into more like something you would have seen in the more recent Batman movies... I am tossing that around as an idea... how's that for thinking out of the box?

Talex, let me start by saying I am still relatively a noob in the tanking game, but just like most jumped in head first. My collection started with a cheap tank from Wal-Mart. At the time of that purchase I didn't even know there were soo many awesomely realistic tanks available. I only found out after looking for videos of the cheapie I bought on you tube. The first nice one I purchased was the Walker Bulldog (still my favorite) from Taigen. It had most of the upgrades already, but just like anything else you buy you start looking for ways to improve it. First thing was metal road wheels,and let me tell you when I started taking that first screw out I was lost. Then I found help from all these wonderful gents here on RCU. Don't ever feel stupid or shy about asking ANYTHING. There will be someone with an answer, and if not, someone who will find an answer to whatever challenge you face. And congrats on your first couple of hunks of armor. Taigen is a good brand and Erik is always a big help when you need it. Like he said though, once you get bit by that two tracked monster, it's got you! I am now the proud owner of more than a dozen pieces of armor,(mostly Taigen) and can build one part by part thanks to help from the awesome group of guys on RCU. I even did my first paint job about this time last year on a HL Abrams. And also, being a lifelong resident of the metro-Detroit area, go wings!