Winter is coming
 

I wanted to do something different with my Leopard and the vstank winter version always caught my eye.

Phase I complete:

http://i.imgur.com/hqFIKdG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hcQpkQ4.jpg

Looks good!

The modern winter camos are interesting and I think you've got it down. :cool:




Jeff

That looks great

Used a combination of putty and paper to mask.

http://i.imgur.com/U5EhriJ.jpg

Applied the wash and some drybrushing. I rushed it due to being hungover, so a bit sloppier than I would have liked.


http://i.imgur.com/VlAXpB8.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/py7iOTq.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/9GCKZcz.jpg

Waiting for my metal roadwheels before I decide if they will be green or white.

Yes
I like winter. Thats when I take out my Pz\ III. It is still in pretty much stock HL form except for the Winterketten tracks. Still airsoft also. fun to see snow drifts explode with the airsoft rounds HAHA

Neat that looks cool

Nice. Tamiya kit?

Nope, Heng Long with Taigan 4:1 V2 gearboxes, Tamiya treads and decals.

Ok, Taigen metal roadwheel/swingarms and Banebot 380`s ordered. If the new motors do not improve performance, I have a hard decision to make. I love how the 4:1's allow the Leopard to spin with ease in grass and carpet, turn anywhere and travel at a consistent speed no matter the terrain or incline. Especially the ability to do all of of these actions at a crawl. Unfortunately the top end is just a bit too slow.

I`ve been playing with the ztz-99 with speed 400's on stock steel mato boxes, PIII on stock steels with stock motor and Panther on Asiatam brass boxes. The Asiatam setup wins hands down for balance between speed and power, but even these take away the low speed control that I've come to appreciate with the 4:1's. I really wish there was a magic bullet solution to get both ends of the performance spectrum, but I'm guessing the rx18 limiting me to a 400 motor is the real culprit here.

You can always run a bit higher voltage, but make sure your motor controller will handle it. That will help with the motors. I run mine occasionally on 3 cell but I also have 28mm motor heatsinks with fans running as well. This will help the top speed but your controller must handle it. The stock Taigen and HL systems cannot handle 3 cell so you are out of luck there, but you may get lucky with a 7 cell NIMH. As long as the weight is down and the current draw is low it shouldn't overheat it too quick, just add some fans and heatsinks if you can to the RX18. The 380 Banebots motors can handle 12V no problem so maybe try some regular ESC's with a few types of battery to figure out what works for you.
You might also want to think about some better motor controllers and possibly try one of our 3:1 gearboxes. With something good like a Sabertooth my 20lbs+ Tiger 1 can creep just as good as the 4:1 with plenty of speed, however this will cost you a pretty penny to run these. Remember also that more voltage & speed will equal more noise, so prepare for that too. Hopefully this helps!

Went ahead and ordered the 3:1's (nice talking to ya Erik) just to see. If they can reproduce this climb as well as the 4:1's, then I'll be happy.

Stair climb from front and then side:

https://youtu.be/0oojZPupTww

https://youtu.be/g4zeyQESZHA

Taigen V2 3:1's installed. Miscommunication during ordering lead to ML boxes arriving, but I was able to get them mounted on 3 screws each since they have both sets of holes, but had to install one unassembled since the rear screw was under a gear.

They are smooth and really quiet compared to the 4:1's that were in it. Perfect speed, but obvious loss of torque. The battery was pretty low, so I'll know more about low speed turning and if it's acceptable in about 30min. I really enjoyed the precise low speed turning ability of the 4:1's and the fact I could roll along over any terrain at a scale soldier's walking pace. Definitely unable to move that slow with any power with the 3:1's.

Banebots sent me 370's instead of 380's, so it'll be a while before I can see if they add any torque.

Ok, fully charged battery verdict.

Still can't turn sharp at low speed or really any speed in confined areas. Requires 3 part turns or super spin to turn around in a 6'x6' carpeted area which it easily turned around in with the 4:1's. In the long grass in gets caught for a second, lowering the back and popping the front up, but does have the power to break free. Flies thru normal grass with no issues at all and turns fairly well. Also able to move well at low speed, but tricky to maintain with stock 2.4 electronics, always trying to go faster. Powered up a 15ft 40 degree grass slope without flinching. The speed makes it bouncy and toyish.

I will get my metal roadwheels installed on Friday or Saturday and then add weight until the bounce is gone before I make my final verdict. I do feel that these 3:1's have no business being installed in plastic WWII tanks if you desire anything near realistic movement.

yea sounds not good...I liked your crawling up the stairs! can't wait to get mine!

I'm really fighting with these Tamiya treads now that they are stretched. 1 link is the difference between being tight enough to raise the last roadwheel when lifted off the ground or being loose enough to come off the sprocket if anything gets in there. Of course the built in "tensioner" on the Leo seems to adjust exactly one link length per setting, completely invalidating it's existence.

Testing done, I'm sticking with the 4:1's and loose tracks. I've also tested the factory grease from the nylon gears, lithium and even gun oil, but the hands down winner for gear noise reduction is moly grease. It's thick, black and sticks like nothing I've used before.

The metal roadwheels add about 4lbs (per shipping weight) which seems to be perfect. My Leo looks heavy when running without being weighed down. Excited to see them in the dirt.

If anyone is interested, I'll sell my 3 day old Taigen V2 3:158mm gears for $50 shipped (US) or trade them for 48mm 4:1 gears for my KV1. They have been run for 20min load free to condition the brushes and then have an hour of run time on them, 10min outdoors.

Now it's time to charge the batteries and go play outside.

Has anyone hinged the mud flaps on a HL Leo?

All put together mechanically, now to the proving grounds.


http://i.imgur.com/Dj2R0d8.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/NBuljSd.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/6RabmEM.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/kht7aEh.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/eQWAyYR.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/rMneKqU.jpg

Sand:


https://youtu.be/cHhwTPHJjdk


Stone:


https://youtu.be/JvK0gl-Yg_A

I have good grease on my site.
http://www.pprslots.com/rc.htm

http://www.pprslots.com/Graphics/Hvyrcgrease.jpg

Can't wait to see your Leo build.

Longer run in the sand if you want to see how it turns.

Not sure why it defaults to lower resolution, but they are shot in 1080 if you change the setting.

https://youtu.be/XarhMui3ZUo

I am Not going crazy with this thing...just putting decals on and hitting it quickly with the airbrush. ;)

Suuuuuuuuurrrrrrre. Uhuh.