Mato tank problems
 

Good afternoon all!

I recently bought a Mato Tiger 1 and have been putting together my Franken-Tiger over the last few weeks. Not using any Mato stock electronics, everything has been replaced with Taigen "innards" and an IBU2. After finally getting the board put in, and mato motors soldered and connected came the maiden test drive. After about 5 feet, the drive sprocket bolts came out. While this isn't a hard fix by any means, is this a common thing? I also noticed the idlers are all wobbly when driving.

Some other questions:

As far as installing other parts (i.e. speaker box, turret rotation module, etc.) is it best to use glue or would I be better off tapping the holes and using small botls?

When putting in the plastic tubing from my smoke unit, glues have not been sticking so well to the metal. Any suggestions to a better hold?

I took a page from Erik and I now hold everything in with velcro. They have this blue velcro at Hobby king that's incredibly strong. This is the stuff

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/polyeste...rong-1mtr.html

I know guys that put a large piece of the loop right down in the bottom of the tank, like wall-to-wall carpeting, and it works great. At first I found it hard to believe, but after trying it for myself I've found that whatever I put in with this stuff (smoke units, IBUs, receivers, speakers, whatever) it's not going anywhere.

For rotation motors and more permanent items, I drill and tap wherever I can. An M3x0.5 tap is a very valuable tool.

And a good thing for those smoke tubes is Zap Goo. Holds like crazy until you don't want it to, and then it's fairly easy to remove.

Great thanks for the info! I was thinking about using the velcro, just have to get it all around the posts in the lower hull. I was thinking of using a sheet of thick styrene and having the smoke unit, board, speaker, and battery attached to it so if I want to shelve the tiger for a while I can just take out the one big piece and put it into a new tank later on.

Thanks Crius!

Having the board and stuff interchangeable is a good idea, and you could even take it one step further and instead of using a styrene plate, use a small Tupperware bowl and then you could make it pretty close to waterproof.

I am going to try some 3M dual lock for the next tank build and see how it does after using some at work. It locks really well but will pull off easily if needed. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ble-Fasteners/
Jimmy

I was just about to suggest some of this! The dual lock is looking very promising but also very expensive at the same time. 1M is looking to be about $15 in black!