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Tamiya Electronics
I am curious as to which Tamiya electronics would be best suited for the leopard 1 (sound, function, etc...)
Thanks |
Man, been a bit since I messed with this but you may have to avoid the modern tammy tank electronics if your running separate gearboxes to each sprocket? The modern tammy tanks have a different way of propulsion with one motor for fwd/rev and one to turn. I'm sure you can get around this but I'm not the person to tell you how. If you want momentum on your forward/reverse drive get one of the DMD/MF from the KV or IS-2 tank kits. If not grab a Pershing unit (includes a small light unit,) If your trying to use a stock tammy recoil unit just have to avoid the tammy 105 Sherman due to it doesn't have recoil on the MF board.
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I am thinking of putting in the DKLM gearbox.
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Best would be the Tamyia Leo2 electronics.
Just make sure you get the correct type gearbox for full diff (drive and steer motor). For this option it may be best to purchase the Leo2 kit and part out (as a static model) what you dont need, as the gearbox(es) and electronics is about half the kit price. |
I used a pershing DMD T-06 in mine. Worked like a charm.
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You can also use the KV 1 Electronics .
Jimmy |
If you are going to use the dklm gearbox anyway , why not just use aftermarked sound/controll board like Clark/ibu/elmod ?
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2 Attachment(s)
For IR Battle Play I used the Tamiya KV 1 — JS 2 electronic package for this Leo 1A4 display model hull conversion using Daryl Turner's engineered and fabricated custom one off parts. If infrared battle is not important to your build, sollie's advice would be a great solution.
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All the systems mentioned by stian are fully compatible so would be great choices even if you want to battle!
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2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by tomhugill
(Post 12403931)
All the systems mentioned by stian are fully compatible so would be great choices even if you want to battle!
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Originally Posted by Pcomm1.v2
(Post 12403950)
Cracking infrared battle idea mate!
Also with aftermarket boards you can: Select the tank class. From one life to infinite. Choose normal or piercing rounds (piercing rounds takes two lifes at once) Set the amount of ammo your tank is carrying. For example in my sherman I have the same rounds as the original tank has. Machine gun combat too. Which damages soft skinned vehicles. At home after combat to read the statistics, who hitted you, when and so on. Also live, on your radio, while battling. Simulate tank damages, like broken tracks and so on. Also you can change all the sounds to wathever you like it. Fully compatible with all brands at the same time. Tamiya, heng long, taigen and so on battling together. And more options that I am missing now. Meanwhile with the stock tamiya electronics, well... You can get bored of them after 15 minutes. I just sell them as soon as I buy a tamiya kit. For me, they dont worth a dollar. |
Originally Posted by Rad_Schuhart
(Post 12403955)
There you come again, lol. First as most of people know, Im not a fan of clark electronics, but you dont have to do all that ninja master stick codes to control your tank anymore. Just program your radio and done.
Also with aftermarket boards you can: Select the tank class. From one life to infinite. Choose normal or piercing rounds (piercing rounds takes two lifes at once) Set the amount of ammo your tank is carrying. For example in my sherman I have the same rounds as the original tank has. Machine gun combat too. Which damages soft skinned vehicles. At home after combat to read the statistics, who hitted you, when and so on. Also live, on your radio, while battling. Simulate tank damages, like broken tracks and so on. Also you can change all the sounds to wathever you like it. Fully compatible with all brands at the same time. Tamiya, heng long, taigen and so on battling together. And more options that I am missing now. Meanwhile with the stock tamiya electronics, well... You can get bored of them after 15 minutes. I just sell them as soon as I buy a tamiya kit. For me, they dont worth a dollar. |
Originally Posted by Pcomm1.v2
(Post 12403961)
The diagram is from Clarks site. And good for you, thanks for sharing.
But trust me, you will enjoy aftermarket boards way more than the tamiya ones. |
Originally Posted by Pcomm1.v2
(Post 12403950)
Cracking infrared battle idea mate!
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Originally Posted by sollie
(Post 12403989)
if you bother to scroll/look a tad more closly , the sbus version of the tk series makes it much more enjoyable in battle ;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMsGzmWF_RI&t=5s |
2 Attachment(s)
Hi Stian, Pretty looking radio, where do you get one? Scrolling down did not help my built Chinese ZTZ99, you know, the one running the Clark IR gear you recommended. John
:cool: |
Originally Posted by Pcomm1.v2
(Post 12404025)
Hi Stian, Pretty looking radio, where do you get one? Scrolling down did not help my built Chinese ZTZ99, you know, the one running the Clark IR gear you recommended. John
:cool: |
Originally Posted by Panther F
(Post 12404016)
I really like the appearance of the radio on the left... the light colored one. Pretty fancy. :cool:
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I used an early Tamiya Tiger Setup in mine. The real reason was how fast the early Tamiya Tigers seem to be!
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Originally Posted by edoubleaz
(Post 12404094)
I used an early Tamiya Tiger Setup in mine. The real reason was how fast the early Tamiya Tigers seem to be!
:D |
Originally Posted by Rad_Schuhart
(Post 12403955)
There you come again, lol. First as most of people know, Im not a fan of clark electronics, but you dont have to do all that ninja master stick codes to control your tank anymore. Just program your radio and done.
Also with aftermarket boards you can: Select the tank class. From one life to infinite. Choose normal or piercing rounds (piercing rounds takes two lifes at once) Set the amount of ammo your tank is carrying. For example in my sherman I have the same rounds as the original tank has. Machine gun combat too. Which damages soft skinned vehicles. At home after combat to read the statistics, who hitted you, when and so on. Also live, on your radio, while battling. Simulate tank damages, like broken tracks and so on. Also you can change all the sounds to wathever you like it. Fully compatible with all brands at the same time. Tamiya, heng long, taigen and so on battling together. And more options that I am missing now. Meanwhile with the stock tamiya electronics, well... You can get bored of them after 15 minutes. I just sell them as soon as I buy a tamiya kit. For me, they dont worth a dollar. |
Originally Posted by Rad_Schuhart
(Post 12403968)
The diagram might be in the Clark´s site, but as I told you, the radio can be programmed to just use switches in the radio (which is faster and cooler than moving the sticks in a tamiya tank... BUT a radio can be programmed to do the same with the tamiya electronics!) anyway Im no expert in clark electronics, but many people could guide you here with it. I think the newer versions are more friendly user and come already ready to use with no programming, but again, Im not clark expert or clark fan.
But trust me, you will enjoy aftermarket boards way more than the tamiya ones. |
Originally Posted by sevoblast
(Post 12404137)
Let me know whey you have Soviet Tamiya electronics. I'll buy them.
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Originally Posted by Desertrat99
(Post 12404154)
so, how do you program the radio for a Clark board? Tamiya electronics are relatively easy to program. You say it can be done, but never tell us how to or show how it is done?
Second you have to take a look to your board specs. For example, if for shooting the barrel you need to send a signal of +100 in channel 4, you just need to program the radio for sending that values with any switch. Multiply this with the tons of features that some boards has (like my ASP 2, with more than 200 hundred sounds) and after a while, is it done. About how to program your radio... As I said, I dont know which radio you are using, but I suggest you to try looking for a manual in internet, or a video tutorial in youtube. But if you have a question you can contact me anytime here or with private message and I'll try to help you the best as I can. Tamiya electronics are REALLY easy to program just because the huge lack of functions they have. But if you managed to program your radio switches for triggering the functions in your tamiya electronics, with the clark or any aftermarket board is no different. Again, just take a look to your tank board instructions. I wish I could help you more, but Im not using Clark stuff for quite a long time. |
Originally Posted by Rad_Schuhart
(Post 12404160)
Well, I do not tell how to program it, because every radio and every tank board is different. Basically, you need a programable radio, and thats a radio with a screen and decent software, like the turnigy 9xr pro (which uses the wonderful ersky9x), or the taranis radios .which uses OpenTX which is almost the same as the ersky9x.
Second you have to take a look to your board specs. For example, if for shooting the barrel you need to send a signal of +100 in channel 4, you just need to program the radio for sending that values with any switch. Multiply this with the tons of features that some boards has (like my ASP 2, with more than 200 hundred sounds) and after a while, is it done. About how to program your radio... As I said, I dont know which radio you are using, but I suggest you to try looking for a manual in internet, or a video tutorial in youtube. But if you have a question you can contact me anytime here or with private message and I'll try to help you the best as I can. Tamiya electronics are REALLY easy to program just because the huge lack of functions they have. But if you managed to program your radio switches for triggering the functions in your tamiya electronics, with the clark or any aftermarket board is no different. Again, just take a look to your tank board instructions. I wish I could help you more, but Im not using Clark stuff for quite a long time. “You’ve got to start with the customer experience and work backwards to the technology…I’ve made this mistake probably more than anybody else in this room…Steve Jobs” |
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