Wow, that is great! You have skill my friend. Can't wait to see it attached to lower hull.
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Noticed that one turret number was way out , sloping down so redone it. Don't mind them being off but not level is bad. Added a wash to tone down before i noticed it. If i decide to do another camo that will be the time to fill and sand. Going to use my Panther F lower hull colour scheme with dusty washed out yellow and add some green . As this is a what if panzer will use an early G hull a D has lots of work changing from a G. A few teaser shots of what i would like , have a Taigen Panther G upper hull on its way from Germany.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...28cb32f623.jpg Redone the number. Zooming in shows all the faults , lets say the rolled armour production needs some maintenance . https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3d6237b6a3.jpg With the wash looks better , another few washes to do. My flat white Tamiya acrylic was lumpy ,its for the bin . Tried to stir out the lumps and add thinner but white was flaky and some splatter but it looks worn so good. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7c6fb2a8a5.jpg Going for this colour on lower hull plus green. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c22c51d5b3.jpg Faded yellow and try to do exhausts again like these. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...826f9aa599.jpg Have a rubber wheeled lower hull in my stash, was going to use it for the Trumpeter 1/16 Panther. |
Nice work on the flak turret. Your Panther F is awesome! Nice paint and weathering effects!
B |
You're doing a great job on this Ronnie. You might remember Will at rctw (willcapri01, I think), he has a 3D printed whirblewind (sp)? turret that you might want to take on later as a project to go with this tank. The whirblewind is built on the Panzer 4 chassis and has four guns kind of like the quad 50 but I believe they're 2.7 cm.
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Hl thanks for looking in. Crius was looking at that build wondering how they will fit all the RC functions in and retain all the detail as its an open turret. Thinking about these 2 turrets as they are enclosed, easier to do recoil ,flash ,elevation and traverse hidden in the turret.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3531846b67.png This would be a good 3D project as it has complex shapes. I should buy the 1/35 model to look at. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3ac8040d8e.jpg Have this to do in the future , its getting a piece of kit sorted to make a very fast recoil action. |
Back onto the build , working on the lower hull while waiting for an upper hull. This is the 2nd go at the sprockets and wheels sitting correctly. Dremel out to cut out part of the lower plate ( Tamiya style to move the sprocket forward and up ) reworked the torsion bars . Have the Trumpeter 1/16 Panther as a guide.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...19e8884132.jpg The Taigen front is wrong due to the gears not allowing the sprocket to be in correct position https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...dcd2ebdc5f.jpg Some surgery to the front to move sprockets forward and up. Fixed the front and rear torsion bars https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fd1182d1cd.jpg Cut out part of the lower hull and some thin styrene to cover up. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c176e3f8d8.png Want the tracks to look like this. |
Going to butcher the lower hull, still waiting for an upper hull. Now i have fixed the sprocket position the road wheels sit far too back. Going to cut the front of the aluminium tray and bolt back on further forward , cut a strip along bottom of the plastic hull and hope everything is ok.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4544815b2f.jpg Tray fitted further forward https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1d918ca6bd.jpg Plastic strip off hull will be refitted to suit https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c1757c8360.jpg Rear gap will be filled with styrene or metal strip. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1896ce10e1.jpg Road wheels in new position no big gap now. |
Some parts have arrived , Elmod board spare plugs green plugs for power and motors and a Panther g upper hull
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9221335a84.jpg Putting lower hull together https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0761d9bda3.png The Taigen tanks always look nose heavy , should look like this. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...05c4a427c7.jpg Managed to move road wheels forward, with a big battery in angle between sprocket and 1st wheel will be good. Turret on to give an idea of size. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2f9d2b83ea.jpg 5 pole 385 motors slower rpm and draw less amps. |
Removed some of the fittings and the MG ball, going to add some brass and mould a tamiya MG ball as its the correct shape. Made the turret ring to fit the hull and fitted the MG ball .
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...08b4ca22cc.jpg Cut styrene strips and built up layers , just need the geared ring to position the fixing points. Cut a slot in the moulded locking handles, better now and i can lock them up while working on the upper hull. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1017ad8e8c.jpg That turned out well , ring never moved while gluing. Cast mg ball fitted and just the vision ports to do at the front. |
Done my favourite mod to the Panther G the drivers vision port , as the real one swivels with turning its a nice upgrade. Brass cover on other side as the plastic cover is thick and tamiya mg ball cast using Blue stuff as the mould and epoxy shape is correct
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The gears were catching on the high motor side , had to lower the gears onto the hull roof and grind down the cap screws . Working ok now,
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...52bc4e5275.jpg |
Wow, nice solution for the road wheel placement.
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Hi MAUS45 Thanks for looking , HL and Taigen should redesign the gearboxs for the tanks with sloping fronts. I think the problem is they have not changed the gearbox designs since the Pantiger / Tiger with the square fronts . When you move the Panthers sprocket to a realistic position it opens up a can of worms, and the road wheels have to move forward. Tamiya solved the problem by having slots in the lower hull slope and using a smaller final gear.
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Alot of work there, looking good
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Hi Will Yes its been extra work but tank was stripped down to fit a PSGB gearbox. They are very heavy , tank was nose down something had to be done. The standard torsion system was upgraded , the wheel fix was just a few cuts then lined up and glued. Here is a tip , don't buy the Taigen uprated torsion bars, hardly make a difference.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1a4d40d348.jpg Now the suspension is fixed i can use this. |
Seen the sag before my Tamiya King Tiger I built back in 2008 had heavy Impact gearboxes in it even with using the spring loaded and adjustable torsion bars from ETO Amour Bob sold back then I never could get the sprockets to be at the correct height over the drive wheels .
Jimmy |
HI bowman You are right ,getting the sprocket and road wheel correct is a must. A side view with a nice track sag and hull sitting level is a job well done well worth the effort. Have tried this fix , the stop for the torsion strip. You can fit a strip of styrene or metal in and the torsion strip curves slightly and stiffens up the suspension .
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This is a 'Turnigy' chip. It regulates the speed of a small electric motor and is adjustable. Using this will slow down the high speed elevation/depression and rotation of the gun barrel system, useful on the Flakpanzer and Wirblewind. It can also be used to impute mass of the tank itself, IOW one can eliminate the jack rabbit starts and stops. I use them on most of our in house tanks, especially those that are used in hands on demos at 35th and 30th Battery Museums.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a4571541fa.jpg |
Originally Posted by bowlman
(Post 12652208)
Seen the sag before my Tamiya King Tiger I built back in 2008 had heavy Impact gearboxes in it even with using the spring loaded and adjustable torsion bars from ETO Amour Bob sold back then I never could get the sprockets to be at the correct height over the drive wheels .
Jimmy Thanks Jimmy |
Going to make the MG shield , some thin brass sheet,brass strip and tube for the hinge. Its going to need some form of lock to keep it in position, and a good cleanup before painting. Have ordered turret rings to finish the turret off and a spare for the other Flak turret if i decide to make it.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1d82333a04.jpg The MG shield . https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a622fa3d83.jpg Cut the shape out from 0.3 mm brass sheet. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...713c5b5579.jpg Solder film round the edges and a strip along the bottom to stiffen up the tubes for the hinges. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...946653966d.jpg The shield supports. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d13485984d.jpg Looks like it ready for a clean and paint, no issues to fix. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c760025934.jpg Hinges are ok ,nothing stopping it between positions, when the supports are glued in the hinge parts will but together after some tiding with the file. |
Couple of turret rings arrived so fitted the turret to the hull for a test, massive fail at max elevation the servo starts to catch cables and wind them up. As the servo for the recoil sits behind the drum the longer part of the arm that triggers the leaf switch for the flash catches cables as the elevation hits max. Another problem is the noise from the standard turret traverse motor is annoying, if i cant fix the noise will fit a servo motor as in my other tanks. Going to try a shield over the the servo to stop the cable issue. The video shows everything is fine until the gun almost reaches max elevation.
Servo arm winds in cables and pulls plug out. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...399263ace0.jpg Max elevation and servo is into the hull space. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...73fcc51218.jpg This is the 1st fix, if it works will make a cover that follows the arc of the servo arm rotation. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0ef1fe7a1d.jpg Cut a slot for the cables on opposite side to avoid the servo arm. |
Why don't you just put in a slip ring? If you locate it towards the center of the gear you can have it hang down low enough that the servo won't interfere.
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Hi Cirius the slipring fix would be fine if it was a normal elevation arc , as its a flak gun the elevation has to get close to vertical. Problem is at max elevation the servo sits in the hull and then you can catch cables , if i place the slipring away from the servo the cables will catch on the gears for the elevation. Its fixed for now , just need to work out how many revolutions of the turret in one direction i have before cables pull out of plugs . Going to make another guard that takes up less space and have a look at the noisy turret rotation motor unit.
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Have the new 5 pole 385 cans ready to fit , silicone cables and an RFI kit fitted . Almost half the rpm and more efficient than the 3 pole 380 cans , test will be how slow can it move with power to turn and climb. The noise from the turret rotation box has to go, ordered up stuff to fit a geared servo for the turret.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8be867d714.jpg Wired up and ready to fit. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4f627b4078.jpg
Track cable holder Started on the hull, servo motor for turret rotation as the stock one was noisy . Removed all the plastic tool holders and track fittings , the plastic was thick and i want the racks empty. Started to distress the hull , little Proxxon tool with various burrs. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4304187df4.jpg Old servo used for turret motor with a large gear for a slower turn. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fcfbd1b9ef.jpg Brass rack and the barrel cleaning tube removed just the support left. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1d766790b9.jpg Tow cable clamps and added styrene for scale armour. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...08bd39c825.jpg Track hangers and rack for hammer ,bar and crowbar https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2739f86094.jpg Jack block and rack , will sand hull to round off the burrs and a coat of Mr Surfacer 500 should give a nice effect. |
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